The deck on board the MS Caledonian Sky

Before its transformation, the 114-passenger ship sailed under the name Hebridean Spirit. Its luxury re-fit makes it a worthy sister ship to MS Island Sky.

The new ship will allow Noble Caledonia to have one ship on each side of the world. Island Sky will be based in Europe, Africa and South America. Caledonian Sky will begin its new life with a short season in Northern Europe before heading to the Pacific, Alaska, the Russian Far east and the Sub-Antarctic, Sumatra and Easter Island.

Speaking at last Thursday’s unveiling, Noble Caledonia’s founder, managing director Andrew Cochrane, said: “This is a big event for us. We’ve had about 400 passengers on board today to look at her and so far the feedback we’ve had has been very positive.”

Some of the passengers who boarded Caledonian Sky will have been familiar with the ship’s previous incarnation: Hebridean Spirit. So they will have been struck by new features such as balcony cabins on the Promenade Deck and the appearance of bathtubs in certain cabins.

Whereas Hebridean Spirit’s lounge was filled with single chairs there are rather more sofas in Caledonian Sky’ main communal relaxation area.

The new ship will set sail on its maiden voyage to the Channel Islands on Saturday 19^th May before embarking on a season in northern Europe.

Mr Cochrane said: “We now have two of the finest small ships in the world.”

Photo by Images of Money

Research commissioned by ABTA shows that outbound travel contributes as much as £54 billion to the economy; equivalent to 3.8 per cent of the UK’s Gross Domestic Product.

The outbound sector also makes a telling contribution to UK jobs; providing 620,000 full time jobs; 2.6 per cent of the UK workforce. This workforce is larger than the workforce of the arts, entertainment and recreation sectors combined.

Find out more here.

The delights of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast

Turkey’s Lycian Coast – also known as the Turquoise Coast – is a little off the beaten tourist path but every travel writer who visits the area seems to love it. Daily Mail travel writer Stephen Venables is the latest convert to sing the charms of an area which is the ideal place to see Aegean antiquities.

The rural village of Sogut was home for Venables as he explored nearby sights like the limestone and marble remains of Kyndos: an Hellenic city which he describes as a delightful “masonry jumble”.

Read the full article at the Daily Mail.

Stephen Fry. Photograph by Beao

The ‘Holiday at Home’ campaign was launched in March 2012 with television adverts featuring the likes of Stephen Fry, Julie Walters and Harry Potter star Rupert Grint extolling the virtues of tourist attractions Britons can see on their own doorsteps.

However, according to research conducted by YouGov, the campaign has had no effect on two-thirds of the UK as 67 per cent of those surveyed declared that they still intend taking their main holiday abroad this summer.

Over one in eight (13 per cent) claim not to have seen any of the Holiday at Home TV adverts.

The advertising campaign has attracted criticism from organisations such as the Association of British Travel Agents on the grounds that they will hit struggling British tour operators.

Find out more by reading the full article at the Daily Mail.

Osprey nest removed from cruise ship pier

An osprey nest has been removed from the cruise ship pier in Maine, USA after a pair of birds chose a very bad location to build their home.

Wildlife experts advised that the nest was safe to remove as long as there were no eggs inside. It is unclear whether the nest would have remained in place, necessitating the diversion of cruise ships docking there, had eggs been found in the nest!

Read the full article at The Republic.

£532: the amount Britons spend before they leave the country

Well-organised Britons spend an average of £532 on holiday-related products before they set off on their travels, new research has revealed.

A survey conducted by the Association of British Travel Agents (Abta) found that clothes, accessories, cameras, sun tan lotion and toiletries are some of the most popular products bought by people looking to fill their suitcases with vital items.

Abta believes the poll illustrates how holidaying abroad has a positive effect on the UK’s trade deficit.

Read the full article at the Daily Mail.

Tourism minister John Penrose. Photo by The Department for Culture, Media and Sport

Mr Penrose faced criticism over a domestic tourism campaign which posed the question: “Why would you want to go abroad?”

Abta board member Kane Pirie told the minister: “It is not the role of government to take taxpayers’ funds to waste on a campaign against the outbound industry.”

After other delegates lined up to criticise him, Mr Penrose said: “Foreign countries spend vastly more marketing themselves than the UK does.”

Read the full article at Travel Weekly.

Mobile roaming charges to fall from July

Many travellers taking a holiday in Europe should be able to benefit from cheaper mobile calls from July.

The cost of making a mobile call from another EU country is currently 30p per minute but the European Parliament has voted to reduce this to 24p per minute. Texting from one European country to another is expected to cost 7p from July.

The European commission has revealed that roaming costs have been slashed by 75 per cent since 2007.

Read the full article at the Independent.

World’s oldest backpacker heading to Britain

An Australian pensioner who has been described as the world’s oldest backpacker is on his way to Europe – and Britain is on his itenirary.

Keith Wright, who is 95-years-old, will arrive in Europe on May 28^th for a two-month tour which will take in places like Madrid, Paris, Munich and Vienna. Mr Wright also plans a trip to Britain to see the racing at Royal Ascot.

Mr Wright said: “I have seen things that most tourists haven’t seen because I walk the back streets and take trains or buses to nearby towns for the day.”

An inspiration to us all!

Find out more at the Telegraph.

Portmeirion in Wales: an example of how country-themed villages can work. Photo by Mrs Logic.

Wales is already home to Portmeirion, an Italian-style village which is a popular tourist attraction. And it was hoped that the planned Chinese holiday resort, which was to be located near Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire, would also have a positive impact on the Welsh economy.

However, the Design Commission for Wales’ inspectors were unimpressed with the plans to build a 100-bed hotel and 80 holiday homes and labelled the designs as “bland and rootless”.

If the plans had been given the green light then it was expected that staff working there would have been trained in Chinese customs and that hotel and road signs would have been in both English and Mandarin.

Find out more at the Daily Telegraph.

Diet guru ejected from cruise ship

An American cruise ship which is bound for the western Caribbean has ejected a diet guru who was due to lecture passengers.

Former neurosurgeon Jack Kruse was on board the Carnival Magic but was asked to disembark before the ship left Galveston, Texas.

Ship officials had been notified of a Twitter posting on an account bearing Kruse’s name; one which suggested that the guru intended to do harm to the ship.

The FBI later confirmed that Kruse was not responsible for the threatening message and Carnival offered the lecturer the option of flying to the ship’s next port of call to resume his journey.

It is understood that he rejected the offer.

Read the full article at Cruise Critic.

James Bond arrives in Istanbul

James Bond, a.k.a. actor Daniel Craig, has arrived in Istanbul to begin filming 007’s latest adventure.

The new film is called Skyfall and will not be the first Bond movie to use Istanbul as its backdrop; From Russia with Love and The World is Not Enough were both set in Turkey’s most historic city.

Skyfall seems set to carry on the tradition of Bond films showcasing the tourist attractions of Istanbul.

Find out more at Tempo.

Egypt: a popular place to escape the rain. Photo by George Lezenby

An article in the Daily Mail points out that some companies saw bookings increase by as much as 40 per cent with sunny destinations like Egypt, Turkey, Cyprus and Greece proving very popular.

With heavy downpours continuing to affect many parts of the country it could well be that many Britons will forsake the Diamond Jubilee celebrations in order to try and get some much-needed sunshine abroad.

Read the full article at the Daily Mail.

Could cruise ship sail-by-salutes resume in Italy?

Italian tourism chiefs have asked for the practice of cruise ship ‘sail-by salutes’ to resume and warned that if they don’t it could severely damage the country’s valuable tourist trade.

The Italian government announced that such salutes would be limited or banned altogether after the Costa Concordia cruise ship capsized when it struck rocks while carrying out a salute.

Tourism officials representing places like Ischia, a small island near Naples, acknowledge that sail-by salutes should be strictly regulated but emphasise that they have a positive effect on tourism.

A spokesman said: “If it does not continue then it will cost jobs.”

Current Italian maritime laws state that cruise ships must come no closer than five nautical miles to land.

Find out more at The Transcontinental.

Travel writer sings the praises of small ship cruises

A travel writer has written an article which highlights the charms of small ship cruising.

Caroline Hendrie, writing in the Daily Mail, believes that “it’s reassuring to find that there are some ships that still resemble ocean-going vessels rather than floating hotels”.

Find out Caroline’s tips for “sailing away from the crowds” by reading the full article at the Daily Mail.

Robert Redford. Photograph by Global X

The event takes place later this month (May 16^th to 18^th) and its organisers hope to use the occasion to lobby G20 governments to lower the cost of visa applications.

Delegates will be presented with the argument that high visa charges and slow application processes are hurting the tourism industry and having a negative effect on countries’ economies.

Find out more by reading the full article at Travel Weekly.

Strong pound makes European travel more appealing

The current strength of the pound means that British travellers should get more for their money when holidaying in European destinations.

Currently the exchange rate means that one pound is equivalent to 1.20 euros – making the pound ten per cent more valuable than it was this time last year.

An article in the Telegraph points out that a British traveller exchanging £500 for a trip to the Eurozone should receive £50 more than they would have in May 2011.

The pound is also faring well against the Turkish lira (up 14 per cent since last summer), the Polish zloty (up 16 per cent), the Croatian kuna (up 12 per cent) and the Bulgarian lev (up ten per cent).

Find out more at the Telegraph.

Libya ‘could astonish visitors’

A famous travel writer has predicted a new travel trend involving adventurous travellers journeying to Libya.

Simon Calder, writing in the Independent, said that Libya has “the capacity to astonish visitors”. Calder highlighted the fabulous classical ruins at Leptis Magna as one of the places which should be on any visitor to Libya’s travel itinerary.

Thousands of travellers will be hoping that peace returns to Libya so that they can check out Calder’s recommendation.

Find out more at the Independent.

Yemen: lovely landscape, poor salmon fishing opportunities. Photo by Anmar Abd Rabbo

Mr. Carey said: “Salmon fishing isn’t actually that popular in Yemen, but there are excellent sea fishing opportunities in the country.”

Salmon Fishing in the Yemen stars Scottish actor Ewan McGregor as a fly fisher who is given the job of introducing salmon into the rivers of Yemen so that a rich sheik can fish for them.

McGregor’s character is treated to great hospitality in the film but not all Britons are made to feel welcome in the Yemen. In April, the Foreign and Commonwealth Office told tourists to “avoid all travel to the whole country” and warned that attacks against western and British interests in the country could be indiscriminate.

Read the full story at the Telegraph.

Alaska cruise ship season starts

The Alaska cruise ship season began yesterday (May 3^rd 2012) when a ship sailed into the port of the country’s capital city, Juneau.

It is expected that 38 further vessels, carrying a total of nearly a million passengers should arrive in Juneau over the next five months.

Visitors’ stays in Juneau are normally brief and usually last less than a day.

Read the full article at KTUU.com.

The MS Island Sky  is due to dock at the port on May 11^thand will

MS Island Sky

herald the start of the summer cruise season. Island Sky will operate from Portsmouth until the autumn.

Sky’s arrival coincides with the first anniversary of Portsmouth’s new passenger terminal; 18 ships are due to use the port in May and make the month the busiest in its history.

Find out more about why Portsmouth’s fortunes are on the rise by reading the full article at Travel Weekly.

Controversial film cruise to set sail in August

A cruise which is themed around a popular horror film will set sail from New York in August. The film in question is Saw; a movie which was released in 2004 and has so far spawned six sequels.

Guests on board the cruise, which will take place on a ship called Carnival Glory, will get the chance to meet some of the stars of the movie.

Trips to the Canadian cities of St John and Halifax are also on the itenirary.

Should the cruise prove popular it could lead to more film-themed sea journeys being offered by companies keen to meet the changing tastes of adventurous modern travellers.

Read the full article at the Daily Mail.

2012 cruise customers ‘have never had it so good’

In these times of economic gloom it’s heartening to hear some good news.

Which is why it is so welcome to learn that Travel Weekly writer Lee Hayhurst believes that “for the customer there has never been a better time to take a cruise in terms of value for money”.

Mr Hayhurst points out that there was a positive mood at this week’s Cruise Convention and there was much evidence of “incredibly low prices, discounted child fares and generous onboard credit”.

Find out more reasons to be cheerful by reading the full article at Travel Weekly.

Rome as photographed by Moya Brenn

Travel and technology specialists crammed on board private rail operator Italo NTV’s new train as it embarked on its maiden voyage.

The train completed its journey in just one hour and ten minutes, reaching a speed of 300km per hour en-route.

Find out more by reading the full article at eTN Global Travel Industry News.

Will alcohol be banned on Berlin’s public transport?

It has been reported that moves to ban the consumption of alcohol by passengers using public transport in Berlin are meeting with stiff opposition.

According to an article on the abc news website, Berlin’s streetcars can often resemble party venues at the weekend as passengers let their hair down to share drinks and cigarettes.

The German Police Union is thought to be concerned that the resulting “bellowing and shouting” can be off-putting for some passengers but transport companies seem reluctant to foot the bill of policing an alcohol ban.

Read the full story at abc news.

Get ready for National Cruise Week

Get out your diary and put a big red line around the week September 15-23 – it’s National Cruise Week.

The week is organised by the Association of Cruise Experts (Ace); the group have set up a new website to whip up interest in the event.

‘Bringing the cruise experience to life’ is the motto of the website and travel agents will be invited to visit the site to blog about their cruise experiences.

Find out more at Travel Weekly.

The original Titanic

Clive Palmer told Australian media that he wants the new ship to be as similar as possible to the spirit and specifications of first Titanic. So British shipbuilders will be disappointed to learn that a Chinese company has won the commission to build the ship.

Mr Palmer assured the press that the ship will match the original Titanic in terms of luxury and will boast “21^st century technology and the latest navigation systems”.

However, he was guarded about the safety designs of the new vessel.

“Of course it will sink if you put a hole in it,” he told reporters.

Read the full story at BBC News

Iceland opens up volcano for tourists

Lava lovers will soon be able to get a close-up view of one of Iceland’s most famous volcanoes. Thrihnukagigur volcano is a half-hour drive from capital city Reykjavik and has been dormant for around 4,000 years.

From June 15^th to July 31^st tourists will be able to use an open cable lift to descend to the foot of the crater and spend an hour breathing in the scenery.

To do so they will have to undertake a 40-minute hike across a lava field.

Find out more by reading the full article at the Telegraph.

Branson tops list of wealthy Brits in travel

Virgin Group founder Sir Richard Branson is the wealthiest Briton in travel.

That is the conclusion of the researchers who have compiled the new Sunday Times Rich List.

Sir Richard’s fortune rose from £325 million to £3.4 billion over the last 12 months; making him the 16^th richest UK citizen.

Find out which other people in the travel business made the list by reading this Travel Weekly article.

The Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich. Photograph by orangeaurochs

John Comber of Greenwich Council told southeast London newspaper the News Shopper: “In years gone by Greenwich river would have been teeming with vehicles. What we’d like to see is that brought back.”

Mr Comber’s wish could soon become reality as preliminary work is scheduled to begin in November 2012. It is expected that as many as 40,000 passengers per year could disembark at the new development when construction is completed.

It is hoped that ships of up to 240-metres length – roughly the size of the Titanic – could dock there.

Read the full story at the Telegraph.

Marco Pierre White sings the praises of cruises

Chef Marco Pierre White has revealed his preference for travelling by cruise ship. The TV presenter told the Independent: “I spend about 30 days a year at sea and the thing I like is that the holiday starts as soon as you get on board.”

Spotting whales, dolphins and flying fish is apparently a favourite activity of White’s and the restaurant owner insists that “it’s much more exciting arriving at a destination by sea than by plane”.

Find out more about Marco Pierre’s life in travel at the Independent.

More drama for ‘jinxed’ Titanic memorial ship

Just when you thought it was safe to stop following the progress of the Titanic memorial cruise ship there comes news of more problems.

The MS Balmoral was expected to arrive in Southampton yesterday morning (Sunday April 29^th). However, bad weather delayed its return.

Passengers on board the ship should be used to expecting the unexpected. The start to the ship’s journey was delayed by strong winds and, when sailing in Irish waters, it was forced to return to shore after a passenger suffered a suspected heart attack.

Read the full story at the Telegraph.

Debbie Marshall:
Noble Caledonia is truly a family business.  Can you tell me how it all began?

Laura Cochrane:
Twenty years ago, Andy Cochrane (current Managing Director of Noble Caledonia) telephoned Christer Salén in Stockholm, the then owner of the small expedition ship, MS Caledonian Star and suggested they form a company in London that would be responsible for the marketing of his vessel. This was at the time the first Gulf War when travel was in the doldrums and when perhaps most ship owner’s response would have been to lay up the vessel and wait for better times. Not so Christer, with just one ten minute call an agreement was reached to form a company, and so began Noble Caledonia.

Within the week Andy and Christer had agreed on the company name, had the company registered, accommodated in offices in Charles Street, Mayfair and advertisements ready for the weekend papers. Brochures were hurriedly produced and by the beginning of the next week Noble Caledonia was ready to receive bookings. I am not sure if this is a record for quickest set up of a travel company ever, but it must be high on the list. Today, with all the additional bureaucratic requirements it would not be possible, but just twenty years ago it certainly was, albeit with some luck and much goodwill from many quarters.

Speed was of the essence, our expedition ship, the MS Caledonian Star, was tied up on a dockside, fully staffed but with no passengers. At breakneck speed, itineraries were planned, expedition staff employed and advertisements placed in the Telegraph, Times and all number of publications. The MS Caledonian Star was by far the most important factor in our initial success. Many of our clients will remember her with great affection as we operated cruises as far away as the Russian Far East, Indonesia, New Zealand and the South Pacific. At the time the cruises we were offering were unique in the UK.

DM:
Which is your favourite ship and why?

LC:
There are so many to choose from, all with their own unique qualities and selling points but my favourite would have to be our very own MS Island Sky. She is the perfect size for the style of ‘small ship cruising’ we promote. Small enough to access remote ports and bays or drop anchor in any suitable spot yet large enough to offer every comfort from all-suite accommodation to single sitting dining in the restaurant or on deck. Whenever I am onboard the Island Sky, I am always so grateful when we arrive back to the vessel after an excursion to be able to walk straight onboard as opposed to having to queue up to embark like we see the passengers do on the big ships. The atmosphere onboard the Island Sky is more akin to a country house hotel rather than what people may expect onboard a typical cruise ship and with only 100 or so fellow guests, you quickly make friends with passengers and the crew. A typical day involves an excursion, lunch back onboard and then either another excursion in the afternoon or a wander around the town, a lecture from one of the onboard speakers followed by dinner which, when weather permits is on the lido deck. After dinner there is usually some music in the bar. I also like the informal dress code onboard which is actually similar on all of our cruises, there are no black tie events and people just dress a little more formally than normal for the Captain’s Welcome and Farewell dinners.

DM:
I’ve heard that your clients are very loyal – why do you think that is?

LC:
We count ourselves very lucky to have such loyal clients and the success of the company is built on their unfailing support. Many thousands of our regular travellers have completed between three and five trips, many hundreds between five and ten trips and considerable numbers have travelled 10-30 times in the past twenty years. We get to know our regular clients and learn from their feedback. Through regular mailings to our substantial list of past passengers we have been able to build a strong base as well as keeping the post office profitable! We endeavour to always have something different on offer for our regular travellers, whether that be river cruising, small ship and expedition cruising or voyages under sail. Being a privately owned business operated by seasoned travel professionals rather than accountants, we have the freedom to create and operate trips for what we consider to be the right reasons. Of course the bottom line is important, but first and foremost we are travel people and when devising a new trip we take much more into consideration. Having such an outlook has kept our business fresh and buoyant even through the recent tough market conditions. I believe another reason clients continue to travel with us time and time again, is that when we do occasionally encounter issues with our cruises, whether delayed flights, civil unrest, bad weather etc, we ensure our clients are well taken care of and do all in our power to ease any anxiety.

DM:
Which is your favourite cruise destination?

LC:
This is a very hard question and whilst I have seen many of the vessels we use, I have only been on a few cruises although there are many on my wish list! My favourite to date has to be a cruise aboard the MS Island Sky to the Indian Ocean and Madagascar. It was my first visit to mainland Africa and an experience I will never forget. To be out in the Zodiacs at sunrise and being surrounded by pods of dolphins was without doubt one of the most amazing experiences of my life and then to land on remote stretches of coast in Tanzania and Mozambique and visit the national parks in Madagascar with our onboard ornithologists and botanists made me realise why people become addicted to expedition style cruising. You really do feel privileged to be visiting areas off the well beaten tourist track and places inaccessible by any other means than small ship and/or zodiacs. Closer to home, I joined a cruise around the Scottish Highlands aboard the MS Quest three years ago and simply couldn’t believe how beautiful the landscape was and how peaceful the lochs were. I am not even your typical outdoors type of person, but one of the highlights was a soft hike on Tanera Mor in the Summer Isles which was simply stunning and we also landed on Rhum and saw such an array of wildlife. We visited Iona which had the most unique atmosphere of anywhere I have ever been. I had read about the spiritual feeling which many experience on the island and as soon as I set foot on the island could understand what they meant. The highlight of that cruise though has to be St Kilda, a truly remarkable place and somewhere that is hard to find the right adjectives to describe (even for someone in marketing!). For me that is the joy of small ship cruising, the fact you can access such places which are otherwise inaccessible with ease and in comfort and accompanied by experts.

DM:
What is your best  tip for a stress free journey?

LC:
Pack light and always have a good book! The main thing which causes me stress when travelling, especially when using budget airlines or travelling around a lot while on holiday is having too much luggage. I have lost count of the amount of times I have over packed only to return home with a case full of unworn clothes so I now make a conscious effort to only pack what is necessary and constantly remind myself that there are very few places in the world where I will be unable to purchase anything I need or run out of! I also always ensure I have a good book or two to while away the hours waiting at airports. To be stuck without a book would be a nightmare for me so I am reliant on my kindle when travelling.

DM:
I’ve heard that you have been busy buying a new ship recently. Are you able to tell us more about this?

LC:
Yes we have recently acquired the MS Caledonian Sky which was formerly known as the Hebridean Spirit. The vessel is just perfect for us as she is sister ship to the MS Island Sky. Having both been built at the same ship yards at similar times, they share the same excellent attributes. She is currently in Sweden being treated to seven months of TLC ensuring she is in fine form for her arrival in London in May 2012 and for her first cruise with us. The vessel was in excellent shape when we acquired her but her recent history as a private yacht has meant we need to make certain changes to the suite arrangement and public areas. We are all very excited to have two sister vessels operating in different parts of the world and therefore be able to offer something for everyone. The long term plan is for the MS Caledonian Sky to be based in the Pacific and operate cruises around New Zealand, Australia, the South Pacific, Japan, Indonesia Alaska and the Russian Far East. All areas where we have chartered vessels before and know to be perfect for small ship expedition cruising so to have our very own vessel there is very exciting. However for her maiden voyages she will be in the British Isles, Iceland, Norway and the White Sea before making her way across to Greenland, Eastern Canada and the Americas.

DM:
Any predictions for cruising in the future?

LC:
I would like to think that the realm of small ship cruising, which is still relatively unknown will become more familiar to first time cruisers and to those who perhaps don’t see them as a typical cruise people. The strength of so many of our itineraries are the experiences that are to be had while onboard and with the digital age well and truly upon us, these type of experiences are far easier to convey to people through the use of online video and imagery.

DM:
Why do you think Silver Travellers would enjoy a Noble Caledonia cruise?

LC:
Well, at the risk of sounding like a broken record, first and foremost I believe it is the size of our ships which is most appealing followed closely by the fact we know our clients. To travel with 100 or so fellow travellers and an experienced expedition team or guest speakers creates such a convivial atmosphere onboard where everyone gets to know each other. The size of our vessels also mean that more often than not we are able to moor in the heart of towns and cities as opposed to at the bigger ports out of town and when possible, we always try to either moor overnight or leave cities such as Dubrovnik late at night after the big ships have departed so we have time for a pre or after dinner stroll without the crowds. Then there are the in-depth itineraries. Even after ten years I am still often taken by surprise at the amount of planning some of our more detailed and demanding itineraries entail and this is something I personally believe we excel at. A prime example being our cruises along the western coast of Africa aboard the MS Island Sky. On one cruise you can visit 11 countries and to liaise with land agents in each port of call demands intensive planning and well orchestrated execution. That is not to say the itineraries are too packed or tiring, I think based on the fact we know our clients and what they enjoy, we have the mix between interesting excursions and time spent at leisure or exploring the towns and cities at a relaxing pace just right. It is also the calibre of our onboard staff which is second to none  whether it be the crew, expedition team or captains. We all work together to ensure we offer best of service and this creates a rounded style of operation which is necessary for the smooth running of a small ship.

DM:
And finally, what do you do in your spare time (if you have any!)?

LC:
I am lucky to be in the job I am as travel is my passion. On my to do list this year are the Galapagos islands and hopefully some of the Baltic states. Having written so many brochures on the Baltic, it is an area I am keen to explore in reality as opposed to from my desk!

Find this on Silver Travel Advisor

William Hague

Last February, Mr. Hague angered travel firms by revealing plans to evacuate Britons from Greece in the event of major civil unrest.

The managing director of Sunvil Holidays, Noel Josephides, was quoted by the Telegraph as saying: “We have stabilised in the past few weeks, but we have not made up everything that we lost since the Foreign Secretary said that Britons may have to be evacuated.”

Read the full article at the Telegraph.

Fox News highlights Rome’s most historical sites

America’s Fox News website has just published an article identifying the five best places for lovers of history to visit in Rome. The list comprises St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican Museum, The Pantheon, the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Find out what it is so great about these sites at the Fox News website.

Prince William plugs new anti-poaching film

Prince William has said that more needs to be done to reverse the decline in the big cat population in Africa, and praised a new film which tackles this subject.

Speaking at the UK premiere of the film African Cats, William hailed the beauty of Africa’s natural heritage and singled out Kenya’s Maasai Mara for a special mention. Yet he is dismayed that the lion and cheetah population in such places is declining rapidly.

He said: “African Cats is a great documentary and will help many people around the world appreciate how extraordinary our planet’s natural heritage is.”

The film could also lead to a boost in the number of adventurous travellers booking journeys to Africa’s wildlife spots.

Read the full article at the Telegraph.

Photograph by Dave Emerson

The move comes as part of Disney’s plans to expand its brunch menu with August 13^th pencilled in as the last date when tea will be served on a Disney ship.

Read the full article at the Baltimore Sun.

3 new safety measures adopted by cruise industry

Three new safety policies will be adopted by the global cruise industry and will be introduced with immediate effect.

The safety policies will now limit access to the bridge, oblige ships to carry more lifejackets and instigate more detailed itinerary planning.

These policies will ensure that there are more lifejackets than passengers on board cruise ships.

Find out more at Travel Weekly.

Cruise industry hits back after FO Arctic warning

A Foreign Office warning about the search and rescue services on offer in the Arctic cruising region has provoked an angry response from the cruise industry.

The FCO website cautions that “search and rescue capabilities are limited due to the large distances between populated areas”.

The Independent quoted cruise expert Kathryn Beadle as saying: “As long as passengers choose companies who can demonstrate a robust safety policy then we should not discourage such trips.”

Other industry figures were less polite; labelling the FO warning as “out of order” and “ridiculous”.

Read the full article at the Independent.

The Bayterek tower in Astana, the capital of Kazakhstan. Photograph by Michael Hancock.

Borat, played by English actor Sacha Baron Cohen, was the star of the 2006 film Borat which followed the adventures of the socially gauche Kazakhstan character as he visited America.

The Kazakhstan government, thinking it portrayed their country in a bad light, initially banned the film from being screened in its cinemas.

However, the government’s attitude seems to have changed and earlier this week foreign minister Yerzhan Kazykhanov acknowledged the contribution Borat has made to the country’s tourism boom.

Speaking in the Kazakhstan parliament, the minister said: “I salute Borat for helping attract tourists to our country.”

Borat is far from being Kazakhstan’s only national treasure – it has stunning countryside, beautiful stretches of coastline and a fascinating culture.

Read the full story at the Daily Mail.

Less Britons visiting New York

Perhaps the increase in British tourists visiting Kazakhstan has reduced the numbers visiting New York.

It has been reported that the UK is no longer the Big Apple’s biggest overseas market – we’ve just been overtaken by Canada.

UK visitor numbers from the UK declined from 1.055 million to a provisional figure of 1.014 million in 2011 and the figure is expected to fall below 1 million later this year.

Read the full story at Travel Weekly.

Is there an upside to dark tourism?

And finally… respected travel writer Simon Calder has written an interesting article about whether ‘dark tourism’ is a good or a bad thing.

‘Dark tourism’ is the phrase coined to describe tours which focus on disasters. Good examples would be the recent Titanic Memorial cruise and visits to the Viet Cong tunnels at Cu Chi.

Calder ponders whether such tours are voyeuristic or whether they can have educational and social benefits.

Find out what he thinks at the Independent.

And please let us know what you think by posting a comment in the box below.

Surrounded by five neighbouring countries and shrouded in mystery Bulgaria is still considered an unusual place to travel to. When the Iron Curtain went back, visitors were slow to take a peek at this East European country.

Perhaps Bulgaria has suffered because it is hard to pigeonhole – a country which offers sunny beaches, snowy mountain ski slopes, spa retreats and fascinating cultural excursions is understandably hard to hang a label on.

With news that the Post Office latest cost index has identified the country as being the cheapest European holiday destination for Britons, Bulgaria could soon experience the travel boom it deserved to enjoy when communist rule ended there.

Cheap Bulgaria may be but it does offer rich educational experiences for intrepid travellers. The Bulgarian Black Sea coastal resorts and mountain ski slopes near capital Sofia are sure to become even more crowded soon but there are lots of nooks and crannies you can see if you are prepared to take the road less travelled.

Belogradchik Rocks as photographed by Luca

The Belogradchik Rocks is one such place. Found in north-west Bulgaria, on the slopes of the Balkan Mountains, the rocks cover an area of 30 square kilometres. At the rocks near the town of Belogradchick you are likely to catch sight of Madonna, The Rider, The Monks, The Student, The Bear, The Lion and Adam and Eva. Yes, many rocks are named after the characters in folklore that they resemble.

Legend has it that the rocks were human beings who were frozen into stone after a great thunderstorm rocked Bulgaria.

The amazing variety of colours and shapes found in the formations mean that the Rocks were the obvious choice when Bulgaria was invited to nominate a place in the campaign for the new Seven Wonders of Nature.

Drawings in the Magura Cave as photographed by Nk

Another natural wonder can be found just 18km away at the Magura Cave. The cave is 2.5 km-long and contain primitive and intricate cave paintings dating from the early Bronze Age. Images of hunting scenes feature in many of the paintings; the bones of bears and hyenas have been found within the cave’s walls.

There are no animals found living in the cave today but there is still plenty of activity. The cave’s micro-climate gives the wine produced in one of the ‘galleries’ a distinctive flavour which has seen it favourably compared with wines produced in the Champagne region of France.

Next to the cave is Bulgaria’s largest inland lake – Rabisha.

The Baba Vida Fortress as photographed by Klearchos Kapoutsis

The Baba Vida Fortress can also be found in north-western Bulgaria. ‘Baba Vida’ translates as Granny Vida – a reference to the spinster from folklore who, legend has it, built the castle.

Granny Vida might be old but she is certainly very well-preserved – it is the only entirely restored medieval castle in Bulgaria. Its days of defending the country from invading armies is long since over but not forgotten – today it is a museum containing artefacts shedding light on its amazing history.

Bulgaria’s seaside and skiing resorts, together with the nightlife in capital city Sofia, continue to grow in popularity. But hopefully there will always be a place for more obscure tourist attractions like the Belogradchik Rocks, Magura Gave and ‘Granny’ Vida.

Please let us know about any places you would recommend visiting in Bulgaria by posting a comment below

Photo by Ed Loach

According to Post Office Travel Money’s latest cost index, ten typical holiday items and costs (such as a three-course meal out) will cost tourists in Bulgaria just £42.79.

This total makes Bulgaria twice as cheap as Brighton.

Turkey came second in the Post Office poll but the Costa del Sol, Croatia and Portugal fared less well.

Read the full story at the Telegraph.

Obama wants US to be world’s top tourism destination

Bulgaria’s tourism chiefs shouldn’t rest on their laurels – the US president has stated his ambition for his country to become “the top tourism destination in the world”.

Barack Obama’s ambitious declaration came in a recorded statement made at Los Angeles’ Pow Wow conference. The leader of the free world wants America’s tourism industry to take a “Yes, we can” attitude to attracting visitors and he has vowed to play his part in letting “the world know we are open for business”.

Find out more at Travel Weekly.

Dutch café owners fight cannabis ban

Dutch coffee shop owners are continuing their fight to be allowed to let tourists smoke cannabis on their premises has been successful.

Currently, ‘cannabis cafes in the South of Holland are legally allowed to sell cannabis to foreign tourists and let them smoke the substance on their premises.

A new law which comes into effect on May 1^st wants to transform the cafes into members-only venues in which foreigners are denied access.

Amsterdam is one of the cities which will be affected by the new legislation and its café owners will be anxiously awaiting the result of a court verdict on the issue which is due to be delivered on April 27^th.

Read the full story at the Daily Mail.

Here is a list of five of the most remote inhabited islands in the world – places in which the islanders are always happy to receive visitors (though not too many of them!)

1. Tristan Da Cunha

Tristan Da Cunha as photograhed by Michael Clarke

 

It says a lot about how remote the island of Tristan Da Cunha is that the man who discovered it was unable to land there.

The man in question was Portuguese sailor Tristao da Cunha, the year was 1506 and his attempt to set foot on the 38-square-foot island was thwarted by rough seas and accessibility issues. Thankfully, others have been far more successful at exploring Tristan since the man who gave the island its name was forced to sail past it.

It is perhaps little wonder that the island wasn’t discovered until the 16^th century – the closest land mass, Saint Helena, is 1,500 miles away. South Africa is even further away (1,750 miles). This isolation makes Tristan the most remote inhabited island in the world.

The islands that are near Tristan might not have humans on them but they do have some amazing wildlife; Nightingale Island for instance is home to millions of seabirds and has a breeding ground of Rockhopper Penguins.

The island’s motto is “Our faith is our strength” but it might just as easily be “Our versatility is our strength” – the island’s website states that most of the 275 islanders have more than one job. Farming is always the ‘day job’ and livestock ownership is strictly controlled so that none of the 80 Tristan families becomes excessively wealthy.

This sharing out of wealth is one of the many admirable features of the way of life of this underrated British overseas territory

2. Easter Island

Easter Island. Photo by Nicolas de Camaret

 

Like Tristan, Easter Island is also volcanic. This triangular Pacific Island’s inhabitants (there are over 5,000) would hotly dispute Tristan’s claim to be the most remote inhabited island in the world. As it lies 2,300 miles off the coast of Chile it might have a point.

Easter Island is, of course, famous for its ‘moai’; mysterious monumental statues of which 887 have so far been found. Museum visitors throughout the world have been thrilled to look at these stone carvings but the best place to see them is on the island itself.

3. Nauru

Photograph by ARM Climate Research Facility

 

 

It has been a long time since Nauru has been called Pleasant – the name first given to it by its first European visitors. It has also been a long time since this Pacific Island has been rich as the natural phosphate reserves which provided a lucrative source of income for the islanders has dwindled at a rapid rate.

Because of the island’s small size – the only countries in the world which are smaller are Monaco and the Vatican City – Nauru needed the help of a large country when it ran into financial difficulties at the turn of the millennium.

Enter Australia, but the help came at a price; financial aid was given in return for exploiting Nauru’s remoteness in order to accommodate asylum seekers. This controversial ‘Pacific Solution’ has now ended and Australia has sent financial experts to help Nauru’s economy adapt to changing times.

4. Pitcairn Islands

Photo by MJ Patterson

 

The Mutiny on the Bounty films told the dramatic story of a group of British sailors tasting the good life in Tahiti and rebelling against a strict captain. However, the films didn’t really show what happened next or how Fletcher Christian and a motley band of mutineers and Tahitians sailed to the wilds of the Pitcairn Islands to set up a home there.

Christian’s descendants still live there today and Pitcairn’s 48 inhabitants can all trace their lineage back to the island’s first nine families.

These days, instead of trying to hide from passing ships, the islanders make crafts to sell to the visitors who land on their fascinating island.

5. Foula

Gaada Stack off the north coast of Foula. Photo by Michael Jefferies

 

Most of the islands on this list have a British connection and so too does Foula. Part of the Shetlands, Foula is the most remote British island to be permanently inhabited throughout the year.

Although the island belongs to Great Britain it could be said to be more the property of the Holbourn family who have owned it since the start of the 20^th century.

The way of life lived by the 31 Foula residents owes much to Nordic culture. Scholars of Scandinavian culture might know that ‘Foula’ means ‘Bird Island’ in Old Norse – a clue to the magnificent variety of birdlife to be seen on this most remote of British islands.

 

 

 

Rosia in Gibraltar as photographed by Luc V. de Zeeuw

According to the Gibraltar chronicle, 22,063 passengers arrived in Gibraltar during the period, compared to 21,259 during the same period last year.

The news is especially heartening for Gibraltar tourism officials as the months of January, February and March are traditionally seen as the quietest times of the year for visiting the Great Rock.

Read the full story at Merco Press.

Judith Chalmers: ‘TV needs a new holiday show’

Judith Chalmers, the presenter who once fronted television programme Wish You Were Here, has said that TV needs a new holiday show and hinted that she knows just the person to present it.

Wish You Were Here was first broadcast in 1974 and was axed in 2003; Chalmers feels that it has never been properly replaced.

Speaking to Tim Walker of the Independent, she said: “You need advice from someone you can count on to be impartial.

She added: “I’m itching to get back into the fray.”

Find out what Chalmers’ best and worst holiday was by reading the full article at the Independent.

Portmeirion gets stamp of approval

The little Welsh village of Portmeirion is to feature in an exclusive new Royal Mail stamp collection.

Television fans of 1960s programmes will already be familiar with Portmeirion – the place starred as The Village in the The Prisoner.

It is also famous for its beautiful Italian-style gardens and architecture; features which attract thousands of tourists each year.

Read the full story at BBC News.

You could be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped onto Italian soil the moment you set foot in Portmeirion. The estate is entirely modelled on Italian villages. Welsh architect Clough Williams-Ellis bought the land in 1926, no doubt attracted by the mild climate is mild and the potential for splendid vegetation to grow in abundance.

Portmeirion as photographed by Michael Maggs

And grow in abundance it has – rhododendrons, camellias, azaleas, and magnolias thrive here and add fantastic colour to the gardens. So too do the flourishing Maidenhair Trees (Ginkgo biloba) and Cabbage Palm (Cordyline australis); all planted for their exotic effect.

Then there is the fantastic collection of trees to be found in the Gwyllt woodlands – trees like Monterey pines, yews, conifers, numerous Scots pines, and coast redwoods. Portmeirion is a delight for all the senses – weeping silver lime trees have a lovely aroma in late summer.

When I visited Portmeirion, I was particularly impressed with the large Griselinia littoralis (known as ‘The Dancing Tree’).

No wonder Portmeiron was designated a Conservation Area in 1993.

2. Hesperides, Nuremburg, Germany

The lovely Gardens of the Hesperides in Nuremberg date from the Middle Ages, but were cultivated in the 17th and 18th centuries. Located near to St. John’s Church, they are a masterpiece of Italian-style planting and landscape gardening.

Hesperides gets its name from Greek myth – Hesperius’s daughters, according to fable, used to guard the golden fruits.

The Hesperides of today is still well-worth guarding – these public gardens are open all day and are a modern haven of  peace.

3. Isola Bella Gardens, Italy

Isola Bella Gardens as photographed by Ed Webster

Situated on Lake Maggiore, the out of this world Isola Bella is a popular tourist attraction.

It wasn’t always so – until the 16^th century, it used to be merely a rocky crag with a small village on top.

In 1632 Carlo III of the House of Borromeo built a palazzo dedicated to his wife, Isabella D’Adda, after whom the island was named.

Angelo Crivelli from Milan started building the house and also did the lay-out of the garden, but work was interrupted when there was an outbreak of the plague.

Carlo’s sons, Cardinal Giberto III and Vitaliano VI assigned the completion of the works to architect Carlo Fontana and the gardens were completed by 1671.

The luxuriant baroque garden has statues dotted around the semi-tropical vegetation; you can well imagine how visiting nobility used to enjoy parties and theatrical events at the villa in days gone-by.

4. Villa Melzi Garden, Lake Como, Italy

Villa Melzi Gardens as photographed by Gerry Labrijn

Villa Melzi is situated at the edge of Lake Como, within walking distance from Bellagio.

It is a beautiful, serene neo-classical residence, with a princely façade built for Duke Melzi, Napoleon’s assistant.

Franz List used to visit and was inspired to write his sonata ‘To Dante’ here, when he saw the monument to Dante and Beatrice by Comolli.

The English-style garden has grassy hills, sweeping lawns beside the lake, a Moorish pavilion, a Japanese bridge and many lovely statues.

There are lots of lovely walks, and, from the higher points, you can see the Alps in the distance. Turn back around and you can take in a view of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellia.

Then there’s the bamboo forest – a beautiful place to daydream about the bygone age of elegance.

5. Chateau de Versailles Gardens, France

Chateau de Versailles Gardens, France. Photograph by Ted Drake

The park and garden of Chateau de Versailles was designed between 1661 and 1700 by Andre Le Nôtre.

The designer’s personal touch is still in evidence today as the orangery, collection of outdoor sculptures and grand fountains are all testament to Le Nôtre’s exquisite touch.  Time your visits for 11 a.m. each day and you might catch a glimpse of fountains ‘dancing’ to music!

Please let us know if you think we’ve left any gardens off this list. Just add your comments in the box below.

The Itsukushima Shrine in Japan. Photograph by Dan Smith

That is the finding of the Japan Tourism Agency which has been monitoring numbers closely since a triple disaster of earthquake, tsunami and nuclear reactor meltdown struck Japan last March.

Visitor numbers initially fell by 60 per cent but have now recovered to match the level experienced in 2010 – a boom year for Japanese tourism.

Find out more at Travel Weekly.

‘Nothing to see’ at Port Said?

Cruise ship passengers looking for a glimpse of Port Said don’t expect to be told: “Move along please, there’s nothing to see here.”

So it’s surprising that British holiday company Thomson is issuing similar advice; the firm has told customers “there are no sights to see” in the ancient port that is Egypt’s third largest city.

You can arrange excursions to the pyramids and Cairo from the port but Thomson advises that local public transport is “infrequent and unreliable”.

Read the full story at the Independent.

Travel writer impressed by Pompeii

While opinions vary regarding the merits of Port Said, Pompeii continues to prove to be universally popular.

Country Life editor Clive Aslet has just visited there with his family and wrote all about his experience in the Daily Mail travel section.

One of Clive’s tips is that Herculaneum is an even better place than Pompeii to visit; as volcano-hit archaeological sites go it is “better preserved than Pompeii”.

The complete article can be found at the Daily Mail.

Alaska: many cruise ships visiting Canada are travelling to or from this glorious destination. Photo by blmiers2

The year’s first cruise ship arrived at Ogden Point in Victoria, British Columbia on Tuesday (April 17^th) – 229 more cruise ship visits are scheduled at the port before the season ends.

Victoria is the busiest cruise ship port in the country with most ships calling there heading to or from Alaska.

In an article focussing on the start of the season, Times Colonist interviewed a British couple who favourably compared Victoria to Blackpool!

Read the full story at Times Colonist.

Cruises ‘still have pulling power’

There’s never been a better time to take to the high seas.

That is the opinion of Independent travel writer Kate Simon who has come up with eight great reasons why booking a cruise is a great idea.

Kate’s article has some great tips about making the most of early booking opportunities and loyalty schemes and you can find it here.

Should Euro 2012 football matches be shown on cruises?

An article in yesterday’s Telegraph (April 17^th) raised the issue of screening football matches on cruise ships.

This summer, the 2012 European football championships will take place in Poland and Ukraine – some cruise ship passengers might be keen to see the games and some might have booked a cruise to avoid them?

You can find the Telegraph’s article here – let us know what you think about the issue by posting a comment below.

Lake Marian in Fjordland National Park in New Zealand. Photograph by Thorney¿?

One of the best ways to experience the majesty of the fjords is by cruise ship and so tours of the world’s most stunning fjords prove to be a popular trip all-year round.

If you’re enticed to travel and have a sense of adventure, here are five of the best fjords in the world to cruise around.

1. Fjordland National Park, New Zealand

Sinbad Gully in Fjordland. Photograph by Archiescat

It really is worth making the extra effort to travel to Fjordland; one of the most remote regions in New Zealand. Fjordland has miles of ice-carved fjords, granite mountain peaks and lakes. Milford Sound is its biggest fjord, stretching 16 miles, while the grandeur of its deepest fjord, Doubtful Sound, will induce awe in all who sail through it.

2. Ilulissat Icefjord

Photograph by Michael Haferkamp

A UNESCO World Heritage Site on Greenland’s west coast, just 250km from the Arctic Circle, Ilulissat Icefjord has the world’s fastest ice stream. The water flows through the head of the glacier Sermeq Kujalleq where the Greenland ice cap reaches the sea. The sheer drama of the fast-moving ice stream and surrounding ice sheet make Ilulissat unmissable.

3. Geirangerfjord

Geirangerfjord. Photograph by FataMorgana

Possibly the most beautiful fjord in Norway, Geirangerfjord is surrounded by impossibly steep snow-covered peaks while enormous waterfalls cascade into its blue waters. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a breathtaking sight.

4. Tracy Arm Fjord

Tracy Arm Fjord

Stretching for 30 miles through the Fords Terror Wilderness in Alaska, Tracy Arm Fjord is a dramatic location. Sheer glacial walls are often shrouded in mist while huge chunks of ice frequently break off and plunge into the water below as waterfalls thunder into the fjord. No wonder Tracy Arm Fjord is one of Alaska’s most popular cruise destinations.

5. Sognefjorden

Sognefjorden: photo by en.User: Worldtraveller

The longest fjord in Europe, Sognefjorden also features another of the most beautiful fjords in the world, Nærøyfjord, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. A wild and spectacular fjord that’s 17km long, its dramatic beauty has to be seen to be believed.

The world’s fjords are all incredibly beautiful and dramatic, and seen from the deck of a small cruise ship or Zodiac landing craft, their spectacular landscapes will live long in the memory.

Which are your favourite fjords? Leave a comment at the foot of this page as we’d love to know.

Cameras: so many to choose from. Photo by Andy Wilson

Here are ten suggestions to help ensure that you put the right camera in your suitcase.

1. CANON 5D MK II

This has been and still is one of the most cutting edge cameras on the market. Used by amateurs and professionals alike, the 5D MK II boasts an impressive range of image control features, not least its full frame (same size as 35mm film) and 21.1 Mega Pixel (very high quality images). One of the most obvious bonuses is the 5D’s ability to shoot 1080p high-definition footage. A great addition if you want to relive your memories with video too.

The 5D MK II is not, however, a cheap purchase. If you are looking to take up photography as a serious hobby or really want to come away from your holiday with some beautiful images then it might be worth investing in.

Expect to pay around £2, 250 (body + lens)

2. NIKON D7000

This camera offers many of the same features as the Canon 5D MK II but at half the cost.

HD video, check.

Vast array of image control features, check.

Beautiful pictures, check.

The Nikon D7000 is perfect for an amateur or semi-pro looking to take the plunge into photography and come home with some stunning memories.

Expect to pay: £1, 100 (body + lens)

3. OLYMPUS PEN

The PEN offers something in between consumer and amateur/professional photography. For a traveller looking to capture beautiful images and HD video without planning to make a serious hobby out of it, the PEN might be the answer.

Expect to pay around: £395

4. CANON POWERSHOT S100

The Powershot is a similar level of camera to the PEN. The major differences? Different brand, no video.

Expect to pay around: £380

5. PANASONIC LUMIX

The Lumix is a great quality and affordable camera which is quite capable of bringing in stylish pictures. With 16.1 Mega Pixels it is a major contender.

Expect to pay: £95

6. FUJIFILM FINEPIX S2950

The Finepix is a fine camera. With 12 MP and 720p HD movie capture it offers picture quality competitive with cameras ten times its price. However, the lens is fixed so is best for the casual snapper looking for that little bit extra.

Expect to pay: £119

7. NIKON COOLPIX S3100

The Coolpix offers 14 MP and 720p HD video but with a much lower zoom range than the others above. This camera is great for family photos and video and is simple to upload on to your computer when you return home from travelling.

Expect to pay: £69

8. POLAROID 300

Having an instant photograph is what has and always will be cool about the Polaroid camera. Obviously there isn’t any image control but if you yearn for the old days and want photos you can share instantly, then the jazzy Polaroid 300 is a decent and affordable bet.

Expect to pay: £65

9. THE iPHONE 4

Yes we’re now in that digital age, where the cameras on your phones are just as good (on in some cases better) than some digital cameras. The iPhone is easily the phone with the highest quality.

Expect to pay: £499

10. THE DISPOSABLE CAMERA

These are still available online and in select retailers. However, many casual photographers prefer to buy lower-end digital cameras and regard a disposable camera as a purely nostalgic purchase.

Expect to pay: £3

Have you got any views on which cameras are best-suited to a cruise? We’d love to hear any of your tips; just add a comment at the foot of this page.

Sydney Harbour Bridge as photographed by Herry Lawford

Industry experts in Australia have declared that 2011/2012 was a bumper year for cruise visits as six ships made their maiden visit to the country.

February has been identified as being the busiest month for cruise ship visits to Australian waters; 26 ships made 33 visits this February.

The Herald Sun quoted an Australian cruise expert as saying: “The cost of a cruise today is probably less than it was five years ago.”

Half a million Australians took a cruise holiday in 2011; the Australian cruise sector accounts for four per cent of the global cruise market in terms of passenger numbers.

Find out more at the Herald Sun.

Cruise ship passengers to get easier access to Dublin

Passengers travelling on large cruise ships should soon be able to visit Dublin more easily thanks to a new dock which is due to be built in Dun Laoghaire harbour.

The news that a new tender facility is set to become available in the harbour was announced yesterday (Monday 17^th April).

At present large cruise ships often have to dock outside the harbour in the bay. It is expected that the new dock could bring thousands of new tourists to Ireland.

Read the full story at Afloat Magazine.

Stepping off the plane at Luxor Airport I feel an instant release from the chills of the British winter and my spirits lift; the sun is shining and the warm air infused with exotic spices.  My week ahead is on the luxury steam ship, the MS MISR, and my cruise takes me from Luxor to Aswan, and then returns to Luxor with comprehensive visits to all the major sites along the way  -  I’m in Egypt for the first time since the Revolution in January 2011 and keen to experience the “new” Egypt as much as the trip itself. As the week progresses, each day becomes more engrossing – Esna Temple, Kom Ombo, Kitchener Island, to name a few, are fascinating but Abu Simbel (optional) and the Temple of Karnak are simply breathtaking.  An early morning option to take a hot air balloon ride over the West Bank of the Nile is unmissable;  looking down over the Valley of the Queens from 2,000 feet is defnitely a once in a lifetime experience.  But for me the gentle crusiing afternoons aboard the ship, watching life on the river and its banks has to be the highlight. The small farm holdings and their villages with their swaying date palms seem idyllic.  As I relax on the sun deck the MS MISR glides through the Nile waters, the ship’s movement barely perceptible. The 63-strong crew provide a seamless and genuinely attentive service, nothing is too much trouble and our on board guide, Mohamed, is our Walking Wikapedia on all things Egyptian. His talk on Modern Egypt is open and candid and I’m keen to learn more about this fascinating culture.  The Egyptians I meet along the way are passionate about their country and optimistic about its future and the progress being made.  Egypt has a never-ending appeal to the British and I can see why;  unbeatable sights and sightseeing, guaranteed sunshine and the magical Nile.  Everyone said “come back soon!” Inshallah.

At 11:40pm on Saturday night cruise liner MS Balmoral journeyed to the wreck site and sounded her whistle to mark the exact moment an iceberg collided with the doomed cruise liner a century ago.

The Balmoral had journeyed from Southampton to retrace Titanic’s steps and carried descendants of the 1,500 victims and 700 survivors of the sinking. At 2:20am on Sunday morning, Balmoral’s passengers stood in silence to mark the moment Titanic disappeared below the waves.

Three floral wreaths were tossed on to the ocean’s waves as a chorister sang Nearer My God To Thee.

The Sun has the full account of the service.

Travel writer identifies new tourism trends

The holiday map as we once knew it has been “torn up”.

That is the view of Telegraph travel writer Charles Starmer-Smith who singles out Burma as one of the new destinations which British holidaymakers are now turning their attentions to.

Vietnam and Cambodia are also now on the travel map as they offer “good value-for-money” while “economic growth, crime reduction and better infrastructure” have resulted in Mexico, Brazil and Columbia enjoying a tourism boom.

And, according to Starmer-Smith, “the Frozen Planet effect, Scott and Amudsen centenary celebrations” are responsible for seeing record numbers travel to Antarctica.

Read the full article at the Telegraph.

Starkey praises “surprisingly unbeautiful” Rome

Television historian David Starkey has revealed that his favourite city is Rome – despite describing the place as being “surprisingly unbeautiful”.

Starkey, interviewed in the travel section of the Independent, thinks that Rome’s “combination of grand history and contemporary chaotic vigour, always makes it very appealing”.

Find out more about the historian’s taste in travel at the Independent.

The French know a thing or two about small pleasures. Tiny cups of strong flavorful coffee, delicate portions of choice savories, designer shops sporting skimpy diaphanous dresses and, of course, the traffic. This small village only has one long street along the waterfront but this is the place to come if you want a snake skin designer jacket for US$12,000 to wear on that special evening aboard your sleek elegant yacht which may be sailing into the Moorea in a month.

The island of St. Barthelemy is an extension of France attracting the rich and famous on their yachts. Almost all the residents here are smartly dressed Europeans with deeply tanned lean bodies. Beyond the main street of Gustavia, the port city and capital, lies the older part of town which once housed the ordinary folk who have long ago been priced out of the region. This is the luxury side of the French Caribbean.

Some of the old board houses have been painted in bright colors and converted to quaint coffee houses where one can buy a delicious rich lime custard torte with a pistachio nut filling to die for. This is the watering hole of the beautiful people.

Efficient and gracious tour operators helped us climb into perfectly maintained vans for an excellent round the island tour with professional commentary. The vans ran on time. A submarine ride took most of us down to the depth where we watched turtles slowly swim by and caught a glimpse of the silent underwater world in perfect comfort.

It was only a few days ago that we clambered out of our Zodiacs to the welcome band of a very dark skinned but welcoming population of Acklins Island. The island houses about 800 people, although the number was disputed. Some thought it was closer to 600 and others argued for 400. This was a new experience for Noble Caledonia and for the islanders. We were the first ship to ever visit the island with the intension of tourism – a concept with which they had no experience.

Acklins Island arrival and welcome by villagers

This was such an important and unusual occasional that we received a special welcome ceremony organized on the uninhabited little strip of beach which was our Zodiac landing site. The Mayor gave a welcome speech. A constable in a spotless white jacket politely introduced himself to as many guests as possible. Several ladies also thanked us publicly for visiting and welcomed us.

Dark skinned children ran around staring up at our white faces smiling shyly and then disappeared behind parents when spoken to peeking out at us from the safety of an adult’s leg. Music blasted out of huge speakers dragged out here to provide us with ear splitting entertainment.

A school band was scheduled to play but had not appeared in time although they did manage to entertain us upon our departure. There were no services here and we were the first ship ever to drop in.

They have no tourism on this island, no yacht club, no hotels, no pier at all and no idea how to provide tourism services. In fact, they have no tourism services. We climbed aboard one of three vehicles; two dilapidated yellow school buses and one rather well maintained van.

Our school bus was quite long and the gas tank was inside on the second seat. It was a huge yellow  plastic drum from which plastic tubes extended out across the floor disappearing somewhere under the dashboard.

Our guide was a charming young woman who knew nothing. She did point out the houses and the buildings naming their owners but had no knowledge of history or even her own past. This is not unusual in the Caribbean as their text books come from Great Britain or Canada in this region. Acklins Island has a hard time competing for space with Queen Elizabeth I.

The one road around the island is paved – more or less, and the up and down motion may have slowed our forward thrust considerably. The island is covered with low sparse vegetation and people live in tiny houses scattered along the one road.

Somewhere in the interior there is a lagoon full of birds but our guides could not figure out why anyone would want to go to see a lagoon when there was a pretty guest house right along the road. After all, they wanted to show us their best. A small primary school had been decorated in the form a local historical museum, displaying food plants and cookware of the past.

We returned to our landing beach to find that the party there was still continuing. Music was still blasting. Young people in cars had come from all over the island. Children in school uniforms were now also present. The school band was playing. The Mayor gave another welcome talk. The music was still blasting….

As we loaded the Zodiacs the children came out to help. Some moved the wooden step around. Others, pushed and shoved with us. Everyone waved as the staff boat left. “Come back!” They all shouted. “Come see us again!”

We all have choices when we travel. And here the extremes are great. On Acklins Island we found a wonderful, warm, and welcoming people who truly tried to please us and to make friends. On St. Bart’s we found a beautiful and totally designer port.

I will return to both in the future, but I will never forget the kindness and pure human energy of the lovely warm people of Acklins Island. We can always find a place with an air conditioned van, but how often do we get to bounce around an island in a yellow school bus with a plastic drum for a gas tank? This, to me, is adventure travel at its best.

Photograph by Rainer Hungershausen

That is the conclusion of newly-published research from the Office for National Statistics which found that there was a 0. 8 per cent year-on-year increase in the number of British travellers in 2011.

To find out other details, including our spending habits when abroad, read the full story at Travel Weekly.

Survey identifies world’s ‘rudest’ nation

Friendly service and hospitality is high up the list of any British traveller’s essential requirements so there is bound to be much interest in a survey which has tried to find out which country Britons rate as being the rudest on the planet.

The survey, conducted by Skyscanner, found that France topped the poll with almost one in five Britons stating that they think the French are the rudest people they’ve encountered on holiday.

Russia finished second in the poll; a result which Skyscanner’s Russian market manager Tatiana Danilova believes is easily explained.

She said: “The Russian language is not as polite as the English language. It can sound rude to an English speaker, even if they don’t mean it to.”

To find out the other results of the poll, read the full story at the Daily Mail.

Berlin stages mass pillow fight

And finally, the area around Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate looked distinctly snowy last Saturday (April 7^th). It was not snowflakes in the air, however, but feathers from pillows as the city marked International Pillow Day.

You can find newly-uploaded footage showing how Berlin marked the day at the Breitbart website.

We just couldn’t keep it quiet any longer. We are delighted to share some pictures of our new ship, the MS Caledonian Sky here on Travel Post.

The vessel is currently in Sweden where she has almost completed seven months of TLC to transform her from a private yacht into a cruise ship with a capacity for just 114 passengers. With 74 staff on hand she will still retain the atmosphere of a private yacht, much like her sister vessel MS Island Sky.

The MS Caledonian Sky, formally known as the ‘Hebridean Spirit’, will begin her maiden voyage with a new name on 12^th May 2012. She will start her life by touring the British Isles and Antarctica, ultimately bound for South America, Australasia and the Pacific Rim.

Arguably the best feature of the MS Caledonian Sky is the Club Lounge; located on the very top deck where there is a library and a bar which leads out on to the forward deck. With ceiling-to-floor windows you enjoy wonderful panoramic views from the comfort of your luxurious cabin.

With 57 spacious outward facing suites, many boasting walk-in wardrobes and some with tub baths, passengers will be spoilt for choice with seven categories of suites to choose from.

The rear lido deck with shaded areas allows for al fresco dining when weather permits.

Finally, sisters at sea.

Built at the same time, the MS Caledonian Sky & MS Island Sky offer warm, peaceful atmospheres and are adaptable enough to take passengers to remote areas that other cruise ships cannot reach. We are  thrilled to have two of the finest small ships in the world together amongst the Noble Caledonia fleet.

So, what do you think of our new ship? Do let us know your first impressions by leaving comments below…

You can find our latest pictures of the Caledonian Sky here on our Facebook page.

A street in Trinidad, Cuba. Photo by Jose Porras

Cuba is an ideal holiday destination for those who are looking for something a little different. As one of only a few Communist countries in the world, the country is not afraid to be different from other nations. Visitors will quickly realize that it is not only Cuba’s politics that are unusual; the way of life and customs here are very different to those found in other nearby countries.

From the time of the revolution led by Fidel Castro in 1959, Cuba has isolated itself from the rest of the world. This means that it has escaped much of the globalization which has swept across the rest of the world, and instead has maintained its own strong cultural identity.

Foreign tourists weren’t even allowed into Cuba until the 1990s, but now the ban has been lifted, allowing visitors from all over the world a chance to glimpse the Cubans’ way of life. It is an invitation which America, a country which has a troubled relationship with Cuba, accepted in 2009 when the Obama administration eased its travel restrictions.

On arriving in Cuba, you may feel as though you have stepped back in time to the 1950s; especially if you travel to historic Havana and Trinidad. There are few cars on the roads, which are mostly populated by rattling bicycles and the occasional horse-drawn cart.

It is not just the traffic which seems to belong to a charmingly bygone era: the dress code does too. Cubans of all classes enjoy dressing up for evenings out; Cuban men rarely wear shorts unless they are on the beach and women dress modestly (covering up arms and shoulders) when visiting church. Standards of dress are noticeably more relaxed at the resorts which dot Cuba’s coastline.

Wherever you go, you will see street vendors selling fruit juice, the abundance of fruit that grows in Cuba means that the juice is always fresh and bursting with flavour. There is another argument for sticking to fruit juice in Cuba: the tap water is not suitable for drinking. Most locals boil the water before drinking it. Bottled water is easy to find in the city, but if you’re heading off the beaten track, make sure you take some with you.

To see the ritzier side of Cuba, go to the Tropicana club in Havana. This well-preserved old club, once frequented by the Mafia, has song and dance performances which are richly colourful and highly entertaining. Puff on a Cuban cigar and imagine yourself as a 1950s Mafia boss!

For a more authentic local experience, go to a Cuban nightclub. You’ll easily be able to identify these by the sounds of Cuban reggae and rap that drift out of them. The music scene in Cuba is vibrant, mixing Caribbean influences with traditional Cuban music. If you can, go to see an Afro-Cuban dance performance.

The Cuban people have been isolated from the rest of the world for many year but are clearly making up for lost time by being friendly and warm to the flood of curious tourists who are beating a path to their country.

Any country where the typical greeting is a kiss on the right cheek has to be classed as a hospitable place to journey to!

Have you travelled to Cuba in the past or are planning a visit soon? We’d love to hear about your experiences or tips of places to visit; just add a comment below.

Havana Cuba Pope poster

In a fortuitious coincidence the Pope happened to be in Cuba at the same time as we were, but strangely enough we did not bump into him. As we stood gazing up at the centuries old woodwork of the firmly closed doors to the centuries old stone cathedral, a frazzled ABC News reporter panted up to us and hopefully asked if anyone was from New York. Not surprisingly, there was not.

Her disappointment was palpable so to cheer her up I informed her that according to the mass I had heard in this cathedral two days before, the Bishop from NY was formally welcomed to Havana so perhaps she could interview him.

Her eyes registered excitement and then, after examining the firmly locked massive locked doors of the church she asked forelornly.  “How do we find him?”

Just then, a local gentleman who wanders the square in a 1930’s brown striped suit in hopes of getting paid for photographs, came up and I asked him if he knew how to get in to see the Bishop from NY. When in doubt always turn to the locals. He pointed to a side door of the church which he said leads to the main office, and the reporters, thanking him, all ran off in the direction pointed out.

The Pope’s visit is making worldwide news but there are some interesting local aspects to it that the worldwide news has missed. The posters announcing the Pope’s visit show the figure of the Ponhtiff against the slightly elevated figure of the patron Saint of Cuba referred to as “La Caridad del Cobre.” No more than about a foot high, this figure of the Virgin is always dressed in a yellow mantel and represents the tremendous depth of religious faith here and is considered to be the essence of “Cubanness.”

Havana Cuba santeria

The Cuban Virgin is never referred to as “The Virgin” but always as La Caridad, which translates literally to “charity,” but Cubans translate it to “love.” Thus, she is the essence of love to Cubans. She is love.

Along the bottom of the poster are the words “Peregrino del Caridad,”which translates as “Pilgrim of Love,”  implying that the Pope pays homage to La Caridad, or the Great Love.

The story does not end here and the Vatican is not ignorant of local customs and beliefs. La Caridad is also the African goddess Ochun (pronounced O-shoon) originating among the Yoruba. She is worshipped today through the custom of Santeria, or Saint Worship.

As we drove on Sunday, over a little river, we witnessed a Santeria worship taking place on the bank. A drummer played African rhythms while the participants sang a repetitive and almost chant like song, while dancing in a style I had seen in a Voodoo Village in West Africa.

On a large stone by the river, a yellow robe was spread out  by white satin lace, garlanded with yellow roses. As I watched from a nearby rock, a local man standing watching next to me crossed himself.

Ochun is the goddess mother of all humanity and here in Cuba, more than anywhere else in the Caribbean, she is highly revered, regularly worshipped, and totally integrated with the Virgin, who is celebrated always as Love, La Caridad. She represents the love that is given freely by mother to child. She reminds Cubans of the pain of loss and the power of healing, something that gave solace to an eslaved and suffering population.

It is the the great credit of the Vatican that the Pope had chosen to pay homage to La Caridad as a pilgrim and by so doing, show his respect for the love the Cubans refer to as Ochun.

“]

A photograph of the view over the plain of Bagan in Burma by Conto Maltese 1999

An article in the Telegraph highlighted how Aung San Suu Kyi, whose party won 43 seats during Burma’s recent democratic elections, relaxed her attitude to tourism last year.

The politician, who once opposed tourism to Burma, now believes that low-key individual tourism to the country should be welcomed.

Her shift in approach has seen visitor numbers to Burma rocket and package operators have been quick to capitalise by including the country in its brochures.

Read the full story at the Telegraph.

Titanic memorial cruise ‘back on track’

The crew of the Titanic memorial cruise are confident that they will arrive in time for Sunday’s memorial service at the wreck site.

Problems have beset the MS Balmoral since it set off from Southampton with 1,309 passengers on Sunday.

The journey has already been delayed by bad weather and, 16 hours after Balmoral left the Irish port of Cobh in County Cork, a passenger, 56-year-old BBC cameraman Tim Rex, was taken ill.

Mr. Rex had to be airlifted from the ship by helicopter and taken for tests in hospital in the Irish Republic. His condition is currently said to be comfortable.

Find out the full story at BBC News.

Indian Ocean tsunami warning cancelled

A tsunami watch issued for the Indian Ocean region has been cancelled. The warning was issued immediately after an 8.7 magnitude earthquake hit the western coast of Northern Sumatra in Indonesia.

The warning was cancelled at 12:36 GMT yesterday (Wednesday 11^th April).

The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) has urged British nationals in the region to monitor local media for advice.

FCO website

In 2012 many people will celebrate the 600^th anniversary of the birth of Joan of Arc, yet how can we be so certain about the date of her birth?

There is no official birth certificate bearing Joan’s name but there are court records which quote her as saying at her trial that her age was 19. As her trial took place in 1431 we can deduce that she entered the world in 1412.

The trial took place in Rouen and while Joan will forever be referred to as the Maid of Orleans, it was the events in Rouen which tell us so much of what we know about this extraordinary saint’s life.

And what a brief but eventful life she had. In 1429, inspired by hearing voices and visions she claimed came from God, she helped the French forces defeat the English and relieve the besieged city of Orleans.

In 1430, having led French armies to several more victories, she was captured outside Compiegne. Then, in 1431, and in English hands, she was tried in Rouen.

According to historian Timothy Wilson’s excellent 2006 biography, Joan of Arc, Maid, Myth and History, there was never any doubt that she would be found guilty; “the only point at issue was how”.

The English charged her with heresy and sorcery – keen to exploit Joan’s insistence that voices had inspired her to champion the French cause. If they could paint Joan as a witch then they could discredit her.

Wilson – like writers such as George Bernard Shaw and Mark Twain – bases his interpretation of Joan’s character on court papers which were suddenly published in the 19^th century and contains transcriptions of the trial’s conversations.

Joan, who was illiterate, could be forgiven for being overwhelmed by the barrage of theological questions that were thrown at her by ‘learned’ men determined to prove that she had made a pact with the devil.

Wilson admires how the court papers capture “the tone of her spoken French; urgent, colloquial and direct”. But most of all he admires Joan. He writes: “No one else talked so freely to Church lawyers and theologians, men of acumen and authority. Joan did not go quietly into the night.”

So who were these “men of acumen”? Wilson says of the trial members that “some were notable, not always for good reasons”. Pro-English Bishop Cauchon masterminded Joan’s trial and was the man given the power to sentence her. He could hardly be said to be an impartial judge – when Joan was a free woman, the army under her command ejected Cauchon from his diocese. Cauchon would have had to have been a saint himself not to harbour thoughts of revenge.

The charge sheet levelled against Joan was a lengthy one. She was suspected of being “a witch… a false prophet…. given to magic arts… thirsty for human blood”. She was also accused of “allowing herself to be venerated, giving her hands to be kissed and indecently putting on the ill-fitting dress and state of men-at-arms”.

It was at eight o’clock on the morning of 21^st February 1431 that Joan was first presented to the court but only after it had been announced that she would not go to Mass because she was wearing men’s clothes.

After swearing an oath, Joan, although uninvited to speak, said: “I do not know what you wish to examine me on. Perhaps you might ask such things that I would not tell.”

Joan was right. Many of the questions put before her were met with the response: “Pass on to the next question” or a sincere promise to reveal the answer at a later time.

When Cauchon asked her if she would be more forthcoming if questioned by the Pope, she indicated that she would and asked to be presented before him. Cauchon quickly dropped the subject.

This line of defence – calling Cauchon’s bluff – was employed again when the Bishop requested that she say the Paternoster prayer in front of him. Joan replied that she would happily do so at private confession before Cauchon. Cauchon had reckoned that a witch would be unwilling to recite the prayer. Joan reckoned (correctly) that her judge would not grant her confession.

Still the court persisted. Did the rings she wore on her fingers have magical powers? What did she know of mandrake? Had her grandmother seen fairies in the woods near they lived? Why had she stolen the Bishop of Senlis’s horse? (This last question provoked a rare show of contempt from her: “the horse was no good for fighting,” she said.)

Time and time again her inquisitors returned to the subject of the voices she had heard. She revealed that the voices belonged to St. Michael, St. Catherine and St. Margaret and that they had instructed her to seek the King of France and free Orleans.

The court criticised her for believing the voices and then criticised her for ignoring the saints’ instructions that she should not jump from a tower in an effort to escape her captivity just prior to the trial.

Joan then admitted a little sadly that she did not always understand the voices and could not always hear them clearly as “it was noisy” in the prison she was staying in.

The choice of attire favoured by Joan was the other recurrent line of questioning; why did she dress in men’s clothes and crop her hair short like a man? Joan replied, not unreasonably, that male attire was more suited to the battlefield and that it was not against God’s wishes. The virgin prisoner also suggested that wearing men’s clothes had deterred unwanted sexual advances from her captors while in prison.

Significantly, Joan added that she wanted a long dress when she died.

Court documents state that at the conclusion of the court hearing Joan swore on oath that she would not wear men’s clothes again and renounced her apparitions.

In the light of this she was sentenced to “perpetual imprisonment, with the bread of sorrow and water of affliction”.

However, Joan’s imprisonment was to be brief. By all accounts she prepared for a lifetime of incarceration by donning a woman’s dress on 24^th May 1430 but by 28^th May she had reverted to male costume: “a short mantle, a hood, a doublet and other garments used by men”.

The reason for her wardrobe protest was that promises made to her had been broken; she had not been allowed to attend Mass and had been put in chains.

She also reaffirmed that the voices she had heard, and was still hearing, came from God; she would be answerable to God and not an English court. The prisoner’s lack of subservience did not find favour with her captors…

Early on the morning of 30^th May, Joan, having first attended communion and confession, was tied to a wooden pole and burnt to death in the market square of Rouen before a crowd of about 800 people. Eye-witness accounts state that she repeatedly cried out the word “Jesus” before being overcome by flames.

Her ashes were immediately removed and thrown from a bridge into the River Seine so that they could not become relics – the authorities who had condemned her were determined that her death should not be glorified.

In 1928 a statue of Saint Joan, she was canonised in 1920, was erected inches away from the place of execution. English and French tourists still flock to it to marvel at the grace and beauty depicted by sculptor Maxime Real del Sartre.

But perhaps the most striking aspect of the statue concerns the clothes Joan wears – a long and flowing dress.

Further reading: Joan of Arc: Maid, Myth and History by Timothy Wilson Smith

The Virgin Warrior: The Life and Death of Joan of Arc by Larissa Juliet Taylor

Noble Caledonia’s seven-day Paris to Normandy’s Landing Beaches cruises, which include a visit to Rouen, run throughout the year 

[The statue of Joan of Arc located close to her place of execution in Rouen. Picture by The Wandering Angel]

NADFAS is an arts-based charity which is dedicated to the advancement of arts education and appreciation and the preservation of artistic heritage in the UK and mainland Europe.

Peter Warwick

Peter’s many roles currently include being chairman of the Waterloo 200 international committee; the official body organising the commemorations for the 200^th anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo in 2015. He is also chairman of a campaign to promote the River Thames and uses his expertise of naval and polar matters to lecture on many Noble Caledonia tours.

Paul Harris

Paul Harris is another valued member of Noble Caledonia’s staff. Formerly Columbo correspondent for the Daily Telegraph, Paul received a British Press Award for his reporting from Bosnia and is the author of 42 books.

Peter and Paul’s wide knowledge of travel are sure to be assets to NADFAS.

Cobh, County Cork, Ireland: forever linked to the Titanic legend. Photo by Ralph Rawlinson

The MS Balmoral is carrying relatives of some of those who died on the original journey, as well as historians, authors, lecturers, musicians and passengers who are fascinated by the Titanic legend.

Cobh, on the coast of County Cork, was due to wave goodbye to the Balmoral yesterday; just as it did with the Titanic a century ago when the town was called Queenstown.

Bad weather put back the Balmoral’s departure date but the ship is expected to continue on its journey today and is due to hold a memorial service at the wreck site on 15^th April. It should then journey on to New York – the destination which Titanic never reached.

Read the full story at BBC News

Cheapest Commonwealth holiday destinations identified

New research conducted by M&S Money has looked at ten Commonwealth countries to identify which ones offer the best value-for-money for British holidaymakers.

Kenya came out top of the poll as a seven-day holiday, excluding travel costs, cost the average holidaymaker £988.

Read the original article at the Daily Mail to find out how countries such as Malta, Cyprus and Singapore fared.

Robert Winston’s favourite holiday spots

Television scientist Robert Winston has been telling the Independent all about his favourite holiday experiences and destinations.

The Isle of Skye (“green, very beautiful and peaceful”) is his favourite place in the British Isles and he longs to go to Antarctica.

Find out more at the Independent.

St. Petersburg in Russia

According to Euromonitor International Research, sport is the factor which will lead to the boom in numbers.

Russia is set to host four major sporting events over the next six years; the 2013 World Athletic Championships, the 2013 Rugby Sevens World Cup, the 2014 Winter Olympics and the 2018 football World Cup.

Europe will provide the bulk of the stampede of tourists – visitors from the UK are expected to rise 17 per cent to 250,000 in 2016.

Find out more by reading the full article at Travel Weekly.

Istanbul remembers the world’s oldest love poem

The world’s oldest love poem is written not on paper but on a clay tablet; one which can currently can be found at the Istanbul Archaeological Museums.

The tablet is thought to be 4,000 years old and the poem, estimated to date from the 21^st century BC, is even older. This makes the romantic verse of great interest to both poets and archaeoligists – facts which will be discussed at the museum’s ‘Call to Poetry Event’ which will be held today (5^th April 2012).

Find out more about a poem which was written for a Sumerian King by reading the full article here.

Berlin tiger cubs try out new pool

And finally… ITN News has just posted video footage of two young tigers trying out their new pool enclosure at Tierpark Berlin. You can see how they got on here.

Have a great Easter!

A photograph of Riga in Latvia, taken by One Random Monkey

The study used the price of 11 holiday ‘items’ to find out the cheapest city destinations. Items included a cup of coffee, a three-course evening meal, a sight-seeing bus tour and entry to an art gallery.

Latvia’s Riga topped the poll with a total cost of £121 for the 11 items. Budapest, Tallinn, Warsaw and Prague were close runners-up and Belfast and Dublin both appeared in the top ten.

New York finished bottom of the league of 23 countries surveyed in the poll. The researcher who bought 11 items in the Big Apple had to shell out £331.

Read the full article at the Daily Telegraph.

Which are the most popular Easter holiday destinations?

There was better news for New York in research undertaken by the Association of British Travel Agents (Abta). The US city is among the top five city break choices for British holidaymakers looking to get away from it all this Easter.

Paris, Dublin, Amsterdam and Rome complete the top five line-up.

Spain, according to Abta, is the favourite country for Easter foreign holidays and Tunisia and Cyprus are also “selling well”.

The survey found that the Canary and the Balaeric Islands are the most popular destinations for the 1.5 million British holidaymakers who are taking foreign holidays over the Easter break.

Read the full article at Travel Weekly.

Picture by Kirti Poddar

There’s no doubt about it: the Queen has to be viewed as an expert on foreign travel.

So the travel community took a keen interest when news leaked of what food she politely pushes to the side of her plate when dining in foreign climes.

According to a report carried in the Daily Mail on 8^th March 2012, the Queen prefers not to have salad, shellfish and watermelon on the menu when on her global travels.

The Mail’s source (Parliament’s Father of the House, Sir Peter Tapsell) revealed that the Queen believes these foods can provide a recipe for an upset stomach.

Sir Peter added: “The bedrock of the Queen’s success has been the constitution. Not our constitution but hers because she has always had the most amazing stamina.”

So is the Queen right to be fearful of salad, shellfish and watermelon?

Watermelon

You don’t have to travel abroad to pick up a nasty tummy bug from watermelon. In November 2011, the Health Protection Agency (HPA) identified Salmonella from a ready-to-eat sliced watermelon.

There are two common ways in which watermelons can become contaminated with salmonella. Firstly, bacteria lurking on the surface of the melon can be transferred to the flesh of the melon while it is being sliced. Secondly, watermelon can come into contact with harmful bacteria if stored or washed in contaminated water.

Reacting to a suspected outbreak of watermelon salmonella poisoning in 2011, the HPA stressed that the risk of suffering illness after eating watermelon is “very low”.

Shellfish

Shellfish has been associated with many outbreaks of food poisoning so the Queen would be right to be wary when presented with a silver platter of them.

Again, shellfish aren’t just dangerous when eaten abroad, a high-profile case of novirus at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck restaurant last year highlighted how all cooks should be on their guard when handling shellfish.

At the time of the outbreak, John Wright, of the River Cottage restaurant, wrote an excellent article on the risk associated with eating shellfish. (You can find it here.) The gist of John’s article is that thorough cooking is the key to destroying harmful shellfish viruses. Unfortunately, shellfish is often served raw and eating raw shellfish “will always involve an element of risk”.

Sewage tends to be responsible for shellfish contamination so the safety of shellfish depends on how thoroughly individual agencies test the waters where they are farmed. Apparently, Great Britain has fairly stringent testing procedures but do you really want to research the sewage-testing process of an individual area before you sit down to a meal abroad?

Salad

The Queen is also right to exercise caution with salad. Despite its reputation as a healthy food, items such as cucumbers, tomatoes and lettuce can easily harbour salmonella and E.coli if they are fertilised with contaminated manure or through contact with contaminated products.

The risk of picking up bugs was the reason why some farming communities, until very recently, used to cook all fruit and vegetables before eating them.

Watermelon, shellfish and salad aren’t the only foods which should be on travellers’ take-care-with list. The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) website, reserves special mention for:

• Ice cream from “unreliable sources” – these apparently include kiosks or mobile traders
• Ice cubes or food stored in ice (unless you are certain it is made from treated or chlorinated water)
• Milk, cheese and various dairy products which haven’t been refrigerated or pasteurised

You can find more FCO information about eating and drinking safely abroad here.

It is important to stress that travellers shouldn’t let fear spoil their holiday; especially as eating and trying new foods is one of the main joys of foreign travel.

And a look at internet forum sites reveals that there are plenty of sensible precautions which travellers can take in the weeks before travelling to prepare their immune systems for holiday eating and drinking.

Favourite ways of healthily gearing up for travel include taking exercise, bingeing on nutritious fruit and veg and building up sleep reserves.

Taking a pro-biotic supplement can also fill your immune system with friendly bacteria and help fight food-poisoning bugs.

Your choice of food while travelling abroad, just as it is at home, is a judgement call. If the Queen can make the right choices after half a century of exotic travel then so can we!

Are there foods which you avoid when on holiday? Or do you have a top tip to avoid those nasty stomach bugs?

Please let us know by commenting below.

Fiji: photo by Miguel Sanchez

Last Sunday (1^st April), the Fijian government declared a state of emergency. It is thought that five people died in the floods but flood evacuees are now returning to their homes as the flood water recedes.

Find out more by reading this article at BBC News.

Scott’s last letter in new hands

It was scribbled in pencil on scrappy notepaper more than a century ago by a man who barely had the strength to write. The last letter written by Captain Robert Falcon Scott would win few prizes in handwriting competitions but its eloquent message made it a collector’s item – it fetched £163,520 at a London auction last Friday.

The message was addressed to the treasurer of Scott’s ill-fated last expedition and contained the line: “We have been to the Pole and we shall die like gentlemen.”

Find out more by reading this Cambridge News article.

Rome gets tough on fancy dress Centurions

Centuries after the fall of the Roman Empire you can still see centurions dressed in breast plates and clutching swords posing for pictures with tourists at Rome’s Colosseum.

However, there days could be numbered as the city’s police, acting on reports that the ‘centurions’ have been intimidating tourists, have given them notice to quit the scenic tourist attraction by April 6^th at the latest.

“They are convicts, every last one of them,” an unnamed police source was quoted by Christian Science Monitor as saying.

Find out more at Medieval News.

Were you April-fooled by phoney travel news?

You’ll be glad to know that here at Travel Post we didn’t post any April Fool’s news items but there were plenty of practical-joke playing travel journalists out there who couldn’t resist inventing a funny story.

Hopefully I wasn’t alone in being duped by ‘news’ stories such as ‘World’s first pay what you want airline launched’ and ‘London Eye to rotate five-times faster during the Olympics’.

Discover more spoofs at Travel Weekly.

Edgar Evans

Expedition member Evans injured his head when falling down a crevice and the injuries he sustained allegedly slowed the team’s progress.

However, the opinion that his condition impeded Scott’s attempt to reach the pole before his Norwegian rival Amudsen did has now been challenged by an historian. Isobel P. Williams is attempting to set the record straight as her research shows that Petty Officer Evans played a vital and positive role in the team and it was poor diet, rather than his injuries, which led to Scott’s demise.

Find out more about Evans’ heroism by reading the full article at the Daily Mail.

10 brilliant reasons to visit Berlin

I could go on and on about all the delights that Berlin has to offer visitors this summer but photos illustrate this far better than my words can.

The Huffington Post has a super photo slide show illustrating the summer delights of Europe’s coolest capital. Take a look at it here and take a glimpse of the Berlin Beer Festival, ‘Palace Nights’, the city’s new airport and the ‘long night of the museums’.

Rome to stage free concerts

Another of Europe’s finest capitals is to stage a series of free concerts between 22^nd March and 30^th October 2012. Rome’s Sala Accademica of the Conservatory of S.Cecilia will host the concerts which will feature the work of composers from the 1500s to the present.

More details can be found here.

Russia considers making beach holidays compulsory

Russian leaders of yesteryear used to be famous for sending their citizens to Siberia whether they liked it or not. But times seem to have changed a little if rumours that Vladimir Putin wants to make beach holidays for Russian children compulsory.

Russian MPs are currently discussing the idea of making every Russian child have a compulsory beach holiday every three years. Russian beaches could certainly be crowded if the idea comes to fruition.

Discover more about the idea by reading the full article at the Daily Mail.

Captain Robert Falcon Scott

While Scott and his fellow explorers believed that a high-protein diet best-equipped them for the rigours of the South Pole’s freezing landscapes, modern dieticians now believe that a high-fat diet would have given him more fuel for his journey.

To find out Blue Peter presenter Helen Skelton’s tips for what to eat on a South Pole expedition, please read the full article at BBC News.

Mind your head! Are cruise ships too tall for Sydney Harbour Bridge?

Standing on the deck of a cruise ship while it sails under Sydney Harbour Bridge is one of the greatest pleasures in life. However, it looks likely to be a pleasure which is denied to passengers who travel on new giant-size cruise ships.

It has been reported that the problem of how to get around this is a matter of fierce debate among Sydney port authorities, the Australian government and cruise ship industry representatives.

To find out about alternative plans please read the full article at upi.com.

QEII rumoured to be re-locating to Asia

When the QEII ‘retired’ in 2008 it was thought that she would live out her twilight years in Dubai’s Port Rashid. This is where, last New Year’s Eve, the historic vessel debuted as a ‘party space’ hosting guests such as Pamela Anderson and the Gipsy Kings.

A press release issued early in March hinted that the QEII could soon re-locate to Macau and although this was denied by the ship’s owners, the rumours refuse to die down.

Find out more at Cruise Critic.

Can Berlin be rich and still be ‘sexy’?

The Mayor of Berlin explained the attraction of his city to tourists ten years ago when he proudly said that the German capital was “poor but sexy”.

However, Berlin, despite the world recession, is fast losing its poor tag – raising worries that it could be losing its ‘sexy’ tag too.

The issue of whether Berlin is losing its character as a result of its growing affluence is explored in an excellent new article on the BBC news website.

Some claim that the city is losing its arty places and that locals are being priced out of living there. But others insist that Berlin has to evolve and is still a fascinating place for tourists to visit and a great place to live.

Find out who has the stronger argument by reading the full article.

Llandudno Beach in Cape Town, South Africa. The beach used in a northern France tourism campaign. Photo by Robert Wallace.

The mistake was spotted by a London fashion photographer called Bradford Bird who alerted the world to the error through his Facebook page.

Read more about how a British advertising agency was responsible for the blunder at the Daily Mail.

Spanish strikes cause travel disruption

Today is not a good time to be visiting Spain – the country is holding a general strike which is set to cause travel chaos on air, road and rail links.

Strike action is being taken in reaction to the Spanish government’s new labour reforms – in particular the decision to make hiring and firing workers easier.

Spain currently has the highest rate of unemployment in the European Union.

Learn more about the strike at BBC News.

EasyJet flies into storm about reserved seating charge

Budget airline EasyJet has attracted controversy over plans to charge passengers who wish to reserve seats on flights.

The company is set to abandon its first-come, first-served policy on five of its flights but passengers who want to reserve a seat will have to pay up to £12.

Critics of the idea argue that it is another charge which will make travelling more expensive for passengers and slow up boarding times.

However, EasyJet has stressed that the scheme will only be rolled out if it shown to increase customer satisfaction.

Access the full article at the Daily Mail.

Norwegian fjord cruise. Photo by Clatie K

The programme debuts on 10^th April 2012 on a channel called Lifetime and each episode will feature four ladies stepping on to a Norwegian Cruise Line Ship with the hope that the man of their dreams will be one of the eager male suitors on board.

Read all about the programme at Cruise Industry News.

Prague Castle to exhibit ancient treasures

When two country’s leaders meet up they normally discuss defence and trade issues. However, the presidents of Bulgaria and the Czech Republic bucked the trend by talking about golden treasures from the tombs of the ancient Thracian rulers when they held a summit recently.

The talks resulted in a decision to exhibit the treasures, which are currently on display in Bulgaria and pre-date the rule of Alexander the Great in the 4^th century BC, in Prague Castle this autumn.

Find out more by reading the full article at the Prague Daily Monitor.

Tourists staying longer in Cyprus

Newly-released research has revealed that the average tourist visiting Cyprus is staying longer than ever. The average length of stay in Cyprus during February 2012 was 10.4 days, compared to 9.4 days in February 2011.

Irish tourists were the most extravagant tourists during this month.

Find out more about Cyprus’s booming tourism industry here.

Greek troubles ‘don’t put off’ majority of British tourists

The economic problems experienced by Greece have been well-documented recently. However, new research conducted by Abto and Aito has found that the majority of British travellers are not put off the idea of travelling to the country because of this.

When 500 people were polled, 36 per cent stated that the current situation “made no difference” and a further 16 per cent are now either “more willing” or due to visit Greece. These travellers out-number the 32 per cent who are less likely to visit the country.

Acquaint yourself with more statistics by reading this article at Travel Weekly.

According to Cruise New Zealand, the cruise industry is the country’s fastest-growing part of the tourism sector.

An article on the eTN Global Travel website highlights how the majority of New Zealand cruise passengers come from the US, Canada and Britain.

And numbers should rise even further if, as is rumoured, plans to build another cruise port at Auckland go ahead.

Find out more by reading the full article.

Singapore’s new cruise terminal nears completion

A new $400 million cruise terminal which is located just 30 minutes away from Singapore airport is expected to open for business before the end of the year.

Situated between the resort island of Sentosa and downtown Singapore, the terminal will have the facility to welcome larger cruise ships.

Singapore, like New Zealand, is experiencing a boom in the number of cruise ship passengers – numbers rose 20 per cent during 2011.

Find out more at the Cruise Fever website.

US mayor to entertain tourists with mock execution

The mayor of Medora in USA’s North Dakota is hoping to put his tourist town on the map by staging a mock execution.

The Telegraph reports that Doug Ellison has applied for planning permission to build a gallows on his property so that he can attract more visitors to the town.

Mr Ellison said: “My vision is to stage a shooting, where I’d gun down someone in the street, have a trial and a hanging, all within 20 or so minutes.”

The Mayor added: “Anything longer than that and the tourists would lose interest.”

Read the full article at the Telegraph.

[The picture of Auckland’s cruise ship terminal which accompanies this article is by Ingolfson.]

The last few days of this voyage have been spent on the kind of picturesque islands that seem to have been created by nature to dazzle the mind, relax the spirit and slow down one’s metabolism to the point of ecstatic catatonia.

The Caribbean is hypnotic. Idyllic white sand beaches on tiny palm covered islands. Heady rhythms of the sensual Caribbean beat. A soft spoken laid back friendly people. And – beyond the hammock and the little umbrella drink – the silent exotic world of the magnificent coral reefs, some of the most beautiful and complex ecosystems in the world!

Snorkelling in Isla de Providencia

Isla de Providencia is a tiny island off the coast of Panama which belongs to Colombia but is culturally as Caribbean as they come. Just beyond the main island, an even tinier one, a seemingly innocent rock called Crab Cay, sits placidly in the shallow lagoon surrounded by a spectacular coral reef submerged beneath the dazzling turquoise and blue warm sea.

Snorkeling in this silent underwater world, we came upon a large patch of staghorn coral between the slowly rippling sea grass. Brilliant parrot fish swam gently in and out of the wondrous purple anemones. The reef grows in patches and extends far into the horizon indicating that this group of small high islands slopes gently into the sea and hosts a wide variety of sea life on its shallow submerged flanks.

South Water Caye Belize

A few days later we reached the Belize barrier reef, the second largest in the world. Here the blue sea is dotted with tiny islands, some shaded by palms and others covered with mangroves. Each could be that perfect getaway one dreams about, but the real beauty of this world is what lies below the surface of the water. Yesterday, I snorkeled with a loggerhead turtle. Who would ever have thought! We were the last boat out to the place called “shark alley” just inside the outermost reef and far out in the lagoon away from land.

It was late and our group had already spent a few hours snorkeling off the sandy beach of the miniscule island preserve called Laughing Bird Cay, so we were happy just to see the turtles through the water without actually swimming with them. But then our Belizean guide surfaced waving excitedly and I just could not help myself. I put on my mask and snorkel and jumped in. And there it was! A magnificent creature! I was swimming behind a slow moving majestic loggerhead turtle gradually moving away from our boat with little fish clinging all around it looking like the entourage of some royal personage.

South Water Caye Island Sky at night

For a moment the turtle gained speed and turned up toward the surface, leaving behind the little fish which scurried on quickly to catch up, taking their places again, and the whole group smoothly continued on its way toward the outer reef disappearing into the murky underwater stillness.

As we made our way back toward the Island Sky which was eight miles toward the west, the sun turned into a brilliant orange ball just above the horizon, bathing the sea and sky in its fiery light. As we approached the ship, it dipped behind the mist clinging to the horizon slowly extinguishing the evening light. As we approached on our small boat, the ship’s lights came on and its outline glowed against the darkening sky like some phantom ship that sails through the imagination as well as on the sea.

If it is beauty that nourishes the soul, mine has been made replete.

That’s the finding of a new survey by Thomas Cook which found that one in ten over-50s has booked a holiday in a country on their children’s recommendation.

Research also found that:

• Four out of ten are journeying to tourist spots they would never have dreamed of going to when they were younger
• One in ten confess to booking a holiday to seem more adventurous or younger than they really are
• Australia, Canada and New Zealand are the top three most-popular destinations for the over-50s

Read the full article at the Daily Mail.

Life on the Galapagos Islands before the tourists arrived

The Lonely Planet website has just uploaded an excellent blog about the hidden history of the Galapagos Islands.

Apparently in the 16^th century the island was little more than a re-fuelling base for pirates who used to collect turtles to stow on board their ships. (The turtles needed little food and water and provided fresh meat during journeys.)

The islands’ remote location has also seen it become home to several prisons over the years with prisoners serving sentences there thought to have little chance of escape. Today, the island is seen more as a place for adventurous holidaymakers to escape to.

Find out more about the island’s dark past at Lonely Planet.

Work starts on Liverpool cruise liner terminal

The day when cruises can start and end in Liverpool has come closer now that work has begun on a baggage and customs building at the port.

Liverpool has previously been limited to being a port of call for ships but will be transformed into a ‘turnaround port’ in May.

Read more about the port at BBC News.

[Picture of Sydney Harbour which accompanies this article is by dokkle2]

Boca de Toro Bottle Nose Dolphin

Just when we thought we had reached the highpoint of our expedition, we discovered we were wrong. Boca de Toro, (Mouth of the Bull), is a spectacular Panamanian Bay dotted with small mangrove islands in an idyllic natural setting. Totally unspoiled by tourism and hardly touched by civilization the little town of “Boca” as the locals call it, draws mainly visitors from the capital. The place is so popular with Panamanians that the day before we arrived the president of Panama had dropped by for two days of rest in yellow cabanas, built on stilts over the shallow water. Boarding stout powerful fiberglass boats called “Pangas” we headed out into the middle of the bay to look for wildlife. We were rewarded with a close encounter with a friendly bottlenose dolphin who dove around our boat. Through crystal clear water we could see the details of a shallow reef covered with bright tan starfish.

Boca de Toro Sloth in mangrove

In among the mangrove islands we had a another close encounter, this time with a very curious and friendly sloth who seemed to enjoy watching us as much as he enjoyed watching him (or her – as the case may be). Also close to the mangroves we passed a lovely little orchid plant and through the water saw the beautiful upside jelly fish called Cassiopeia, which looks like a delicately embroidered lace doily.

Still feeling the high of the day in Boca, we set out from Puerto Limon without great expectations. The day was cloudy and rain seemed imminent. Our first stop was a gentle boat ride along the wide Tortuguero canal. Much to everyone’s surprise and delight, the area abounded with wildlife. The birders among us were particularly excited to see at least 15 species of birds. We also saw a number of fascinating lizards, a sloth, a howler monkey, and several large butterflies including the magnificent iridescent Morpho.

The weather held beautifully as we made our way up into the hills to the Veragua Rain Forest Preserve. Just as we arrived at the research station and interpretive center, the rain came in heavy sheets pounding loudly on the zinc roofs of the buildings. The center is extremely well organised and the displays were excellent. All the guides were also very well educated and well informed. After making our way through the exhibits of tropical frogs, snakes, rare beetles and butterflies we entered the moist warm air of the life butterfly sanctuary. The rain continued through a delicious Caribbean lunch of rice and beans and stewed chicken but abated a bit as we made our way out for the real rainforest experience. The Veragua forest is situated in an area that was once heavily logged and now returning to secondary forest. However, it also includes a deep gorge extending down to a rushing river and waterfall which remains under primary growth. We descended this gorge on gondolas which provided an absolutely breathtaking view of the other side of the gorge and the green hills beyond. Rain continued to fall and soft white wisps of fog hung here and there in between the trees. As we returned to our buses, wet and a bit cold, more than one person expressed the feeling that we had experienced the rain forest in all its grand intensity and on its own terms.

Orchid House, Costa Rica

At Latitude 07° 29,0 N, Longitude 084° 24,0W, en Route Costa Rica from Cocos Island we decided to stop the vessel and go for a swim. The Pacific Ocean was as calm as a pond, and everybody of the 53 swimmers were excited to go swimming in the middle of the ocean. It was too deep for the echo sounder, but the navigational chart gave us a depth of 1650m, about one mile! The sea water temperature was about 29° Centigrade, so it was warm, yet refreshing. The following morning we made a brief call at Golfito, an old Costa Rican Banana Port and the afternoon was spent at Orchid House and Osa Rescue Centre. Such beautiful surroundings.

This all seems so long ago now. We have covered over 2500 nautical miles and seen so many things since that dip in the Pacific Ocean. In Costa Rica we had a new group joining us on board, and after visiting some beautiful places in Costa Rica and Panama, we had a day at the Flamenco Anchorage off Panama City.

We were ready for the transit of the Panama Canal! The day prior to the Canal passage was largely spent waiting for ‘Mr Anderson’, who should see that the vessel’s Panama Canal Certificate was renewed. The guests spent the day visiting the Research station of the Smithsonian Institute and the Panama Canal Visitor’s Centre in order to get into the right ”Canal mode”. Mr Anderson’s representative turned up at 0500 in the morning, and was not an old man at all, but a strikingly beautiful young Panamanian lady. She did nevertheless give the Chief Mate a hard job with all the measures and papers that we needed to have in order for our new Certificate. As we entered the Miraflores Locks there were quite a few of us on board that emailed or called home and asked the folks there to look at the Panama Canal Website and the Webcam showing the little Island Sky entering and leaving the locks.

The Canal passage was as exciting and interesting as I had expected, and everybody was smiling and in a good mood afterwards, even though the first night in the Caribbean Sea was rather bumpy. At the end of dinner that evening there were not too many people left in the Dining Room, and I know that there were quite a few of the crew that also suffered a bit from ”Mal de Mar” as we made our way along the coast of Panama. We visited the untouched San Blas Archipelago, and after that made a call at Cartagena, with its colonial charm. Leaving Colombia the going was a bit rough, against the Equatorial Current and Easterly Tradewinds that had picked up to near Gale Force. So it was a welcome stop that we made at Islas los Roques off the Venezuelan Coast.

The next day was supposed to have been the Los Testigos islands, also Venezuelan, but a Military Exercise was going to take place, so we were politely asked to leave the area. The Commandant at the station made it very clear to me that if we did not heave anchor we would get a Navy Escort to the nearest Venezuelan Navy Base. So off we went, and had a nice call at the Tobago Cays before visiting my old favourite of the Caribbean islands; Bequia. After dropping the anchor and receiving clearance I went ashore together with the Chief Engineer, and after only a few minutes we had met some old friends of mine. The atmosphere of Bequia reminds me of one of the islands of the Åland archipelago where I grew up in the 1960’s. People are very friendly, and curious. They ask where you are from, and for me, coming from a small island; we share the same views in a lot of life’s questions. The Bequians really make you feel welcome at their little island, and I always want to go back there when I have the chance. As we had another windward leg up towards Barbados we had to continue our voyage, all too early for my taste!

Puerto Limon, Tortuguera

In Barbados one cruise ended, and another began. After all the red tape with the clearance we said goodbye to the guests that had sailed with us all the way from the Pacific, and welcomed the newcomers on board. It was raining in the sunny Caribbean, but the weather improved when we arrived at Carriacou the next morning, followed by an overnight stop at Grenada. We managed to get a steel band on board, the Angel Harps, who were instrumental in getting us all into the right Caribbean mood with their fantastic music. It is amazing how you can tune those drums into fine musical instruments. And how they could play! Almost everybody was on their feet, dancing to the Caribbean tunes. The concert ended at its best, when the rain came. After Grenada we had a couple of leisurely days at Los Roques again, with snorkelling in abundance and a lot of sunshine. Then followed a couple of nice stops at the Dutch Antilles, Bonire and Aruba and then another day at Cartagena. The downwind passage was remarkably smoother than going East, so there were only a few occasions when we could feel how strong the wind was, and thanks to the stabilizers the ride was easy, even though considerable swells were running.

After that we were bound for Central America, first San Blas, Colon and Bocas del Toro in Panama, and then the final port of the ”Lesser Antilles and Beyond”; Puerto Limon in Costa Rica. There our guests had the opportunity to visit the Veragua Rainforest, and we now know why it is called Rain Forest. Puerto Limon and the surrounding area have a lot of rain every year, and some of that fell during our call. Not that I could hear anybody complaining about the weather, it was actually rather nice and refreshing.

Many of the guests remained on board for our next voyage, “Lost Islands – Lost Worlds”, and many of those signing on were repeaters from previous trips. So it was all like a reunion having the Welcome Dinner after leaving the port of Isla San Andres on

San Andres

the second day of the cruise. Both San Andres and Isla de Providencia are remote islands far off the Nicaraguan Coast, but belonging to Colombia. Very charming islands both of them, and their remoteness made them attractive to pirates a few hundred years ago.

At Providencia we were anchored three cables away from a rock named “Cabeza de Morgan” and they say that Captain Morgan has hidden a treasure somewhere here. We had a very warm welcome at both islands with local bands playing Calypso music for us. At the time of writing this we are yet to visit Roatan, Honduras, Belize, and a few of the cayes at the barrier reef there, and after that there will be opportunities to see some old Maya ruins in Tulum and Chichen-Itza on the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico before we set sail for Havana, Cuba where this cruise will end.

In Havana I will also sign off and hand over the command to my Chief Officer Håkan Gustavsson from the island Tjörn on the West Coast of Sweden. Håkan has vast experience from expedition cruising, having worked on several vessels exploring the waters of both Antarctica and the Arctic. He has served as Chief Mate and Captain here before, so I know that the ship is in good hands during my leave. I also would like to thank the shipmates and guests on board, having made these cruises so enjoyable for me. We certainly have a happy ship here, and it is the folks on board that create the great atmosphere. Let us keep it that way!

Luckily, the rate of the sinking is just 2mm a year so there should be plenty of time for tourists to see this beautiful Italian city.

It is thought that the satellite data will help the local authorities plan flood defences much further into the future.

You can find the full story at BBC News.

Christchurch acts to reassure cruise ship industry

Officials from quake-damaged Christchurch have just returned from a journey to the US where they reassured cruise ship owners about the safety of the city.

The New Zealand tourism industry is still experiencing difficulties caused by the earthquake – Christchurch’s Lyttelton Port remains out of action for all cruise ships bar the smallest ones.

However, indications are that strong progress is being made in convincing cruise operators that Christchurch is now a safe place for tourists to visit.

You can read more about Christchurch’s recovery at stuff.co.nz.

Port of Tyne ‘expecting record cruise ship numbers in 2012’

The Port of Tyne, in the north-east of England, is gearing up to welcome a record number of cruise ships in 2012.

The international terminal has always been busy because of its ferry service to Amsterdam. And news that 37 cruise ships plan to dock at the port, with 17 of them beginning their journey from there, is sure to boost the local economy.

BBC News is once more the place to read the full story.

Ryanair £10 exit-seat charge under scrutiny

An airline’s policy of charging passengers an extra £10 for sitting next to emergency exits is being investigated by an air safety watchdog.

Ryanair is the airline in question and the Irish Aviation Authority is examining whether the policy compromises the safety of passengers.

The emergency exit seats are popular as they offer extra legroom. However, the persons occupying them must be willing, and strong enough, to open the aeroplane doors in case of an emergency.

When no passenger pays the extra money for occupying the seats, aeroplanes will take off with them unoccupied and the responsibility of opening the doors falls on the next-nearest passengers.

Read the full story at the Telegraph.

[The picture of Venice accompanying this article is by Rashaad Bhamjee] 

The title, according to film company Sony Pictures Classics, is a “homage” to the city where it was filmed. Allen had originally intended to name the film ‘Nero Fiddled’ but it was felt that not all international audiences would understand the allusion to a Roman Emperor who played his fiddle while the city burned.

It is hoped that the film will do for Rome what previous Allen films have done for New York, Manhattan and London – act as a tourism advert and attract more visitors. Not that the Eternal City needs any help on that score!

Read the full story at The Playlist.

Visit Prague’s most ‘corrupt’ spots

Fancy going on an alternative tour of Prague? If you do then you should step inside the CorruptTour agency minibus for a tour which promises to visit some of the most corrupt spots in the city.

The tour is loosely modelled on Hollywood homes-of-the-stars circuits but instead of stars’ homes, a tour guide will show tourists the luxury homes of ‘corrupt’ Prague business people and officials.

Places of interest along the route will include an empty meadow hosting a fictitious Olympic stadium and a huge concrete mausoleum.

Prague’s Mayor Bohuslav Svoboda told AFP: “Personally, I’m looking forward to the time when an Uncorrupt Tour will organise city hall tours. That’s what I’d prefer.”

Read the full story at AFP.

Prague’s culinary delights

I hope that the previous news item doesn’t put you off visiting Prague as there is so much to experience in this delightful city. New Yorker Allison Marino has just posted a blog which emphasises the fantastic food and drink on offer in the city. To find out more about Prague’s micro-breweries and the best places to eat pork’s knee and dumplings, read the full article at CET.

[The photo of Roma Castel Sant Angelo accompanying this article is by Andreas Tille]

The country has lost one million UK visitors during the economic downturn so is launching The Gathering campaign which hopes to entice anyone in the world with a drop of Irish blood to visit the beautiful Emerald Isle.

Find out more at Travel Weekly.

Last love letter to Captain Scott made public

A love letter found in Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s wallet shortly after his death has been made public for the first time.

The letter was sent by the doomed arctic explorer’s wife Kathleen and reminds Scott to brush his hair and not smoke so much.

The 100^th anniversary of Scott’s death falls on 29^th March 2012.

Find out more about this touching letter at the Telegraph.

Gone but Knut forgotten

Another important anniversary occurs today – it is one year since Berlin Zoo’s popular little polar bear Knut passed away.

Knut came to the world’s attention after his mum rejected him and he was raised by a zookeeper.

Fans of Knut, and there are many, plan to leave flowers outside the enclosure where the bear spent his four years on Planet Earth.

There are plans for Knut to be stuffed and displayed in the Berlin Natural History Museum but no one is quite sure when this will happen.

Read more at The Local.

How much do you spend on your holiday?

You would think the recession would curtail Brits’ plans to spend money on their holiday. However, research from Visa has found that UK holiday spending is set to rise by an average of £300 in 2012; taking it to an average of £3,890 per consumer.

Find out more at Travel Weekly.

[The picture of Ireland’s Uragh Stone Circle which accompanies this article is by Richard Sugden]

New mobility scooter policy on Cunard and P&O

A post on the wonderful tomcruiseblog picks out an inevitable and welcome improvement to accessibility and mobility in the form of an update to P&O’s policy.

Tom quite rightly points out that there is some contention around the issue in regards to the potential dangers of being trapped on board in an incident at sea.

Read the full post here for more: http://tomscruiseblog.co.uk/2012/03/15/new-mobility-scooter-policy-on-cunard-and-po/

The Only Way is Up!

Cruise consultant Anna Perrott’s recent article shines a light on the great growth that cruise enquiries are experiencing this year despite the recent incidents from the Med.

Last year 1.7 million Brits took an Ocean cruise. 700,00 of them were first time cruisers and I was one of them! The PSA (passenger shipping association) confirmed that more people are cruising from the UK as it rose from 100,00 in 2011 to 753,000. Generally the reason for this has been the rise in air fares over the past few years.

River cruising is also seeing good growth in interest and bookings, and no wonder with its’ great safety record. This article on the Opodo blog states that 2011 had a 7% increase in European river cruising.

Anna’s full article is here http://annacruise.cruiseblogs.co.uk/booking/the-only-way-is-up

Germany to overtake UK cruise market

Speaking of Europe… although it’s not statistical proof the Managing Director of Cunard, Peter Shanks, announced that the German cruise market is likely to overtake the UK.

Talking at ITB, the German trade event he said: “Germany is our fastest-growing market. The German market is 1.3 million a year now and the UK 1.7 million.”

More on this here: http://www.cruisesfromtheuk.co.uk/blog/archives/153

The fourth son of former Libyan leader Colonel Gaddafi clearly thought so. It has been revealed that Hannibal Gaddafi commissioned a vessel with a shark tank with enough room to house two sand tiger sharks, two white sharks and two black-tip reef sharks.

Hannibal intended to employ four full-time biologists to look after the animals so that guests could admire them while journeying to exotic destinations.

However, the uprising put paid to Hannibal’s plans and the vessel was snapped up by MSC Cruises – a company which have decided not to run with the shark tank idea.

Read the full story at the Telegraph.

Brits take to the waves as air fares tipped to soar

With experts announcing that air fares will continue to rise for the rest of the decade it seems that more Brits are opting to take a cruise.

America’s Federal Aviation Administration believes that an improvement in the world economy and a possible rise in air prices will lead to yet more increases in the price of air travel.

The prediction coincides with newly-released figures from the Passenger Shipping Association which show that 1.7 million Brits went on an ocean cruise in 2011 – 700,000 up on 2010’s figure.

Read the full article at the Daily Mail.

When in Rome: try these foods

And finally… as the weekend is almost here, why not take a look at Lonely Planet’s guide to the top five foods to try in Rome? Reason enough to plan a trip to this beautiful city I think!

More information: Lonely Planet

[The picture which accompanies this article is by Terry Goss]

Mrs Dodger was a passenger on the Titanic and the menu detailed the last-ever luncheon on the doomed cruise liner.

It will be auctioned off by Henry Aldridge and Son in Wiltshire on 31^st March 2012 and experts say that you shouldn’t bother to bid unless you’ve got £100,000 spending money to spare.

You can find out what was on the menu by reading the full article at the Telegraph.

Boost for Baltic cruise numbers

The Baltic region is proving to be an attractive region for cruise ship liners to head to and the future of travel in the area looks bright too.

That is the finding of Cruise Baltic, the organisation which represents ports in the area.

There were 3.9 million cruise ship visitors to the region in 2011; a year-on-year increase of 12 per cent and numbers are tipped to top four million this year.

There are 25 port destinations represented by Cruise Baltic – including St. Petersburg, Kiel and Riga. Copenhagen is proving to be the most popular destination.

Find out more at travel weekly.

Enjoy LA art… in Berlin

The national gallery of southern California could be looking a little bare at the moment – much of the sunshine state’s best art has moved to Berlin.

Dennis Hopper photos of stars like Tina Turner and Jane Fonda will greet visitors to Berlin’s LA exhibition which is entitled “Art in Los Angeles 1950-1980” and is staged at Martin-Gropius-Bau.

Inside the gallery are works of pop art such as David Hockney’s A Bigger Splash.

The exhibition begins today (March 15^th 2012) and runs until 10^th June 2012.

Find out more at Associated Press.

White sand beach at Los Roques Archipelago

Anyone reading this blog who is sitting and staring at snow or at freezing rain will appreciate our hard work, here aboard the Island Sky on everyone’s behalf. Today we have been exploring the tiny Venezuelan archipelago of Los Roques, which is a circle of small flat coral islands, very much like atolls of the Pacific, lined with sub drenched white sand beaches and the brilliant turquoise waters of a shallow lagoon enclosed by colorful reefs teeming with marine life. The day is warm but not hot although the sun at this latitude is quite intense.

Earlier today we explored the picturesque little village of Grand Roque where about 1000 people make their living swimming, boating, fishing and hosting South American visitors and gazing at the natural beauty of their island. It is still an unspoiled land with a friendly welcoming people and uninhibited brown pelicans dive bombing along the shore.

We started out voyage in Barbados where it poured rain the moment that most of our guests were making their way to the ship having spent the last 8 or 10 hours on a flight from London. Thanks to our efficient crew, the luggage remained dry. We were welcomed aboard with a much appreciated glass of champagne.

The next day, Thursday, we arrived off the tiny island of Cariacou where we boarded buses, designed for undersized contortionists, and drove to the highest point where we were rewarded with a spectacular view of the many small bays and reefs. The island gets its name from a Carib word meaning “reefs.”

By now, the weather had improved and the rain had stopped. A thin layer of clouds kept the temperature very comfortable. It is an interesting feature of the Caribbean that small islands can exhibit great cultural differences. Carriacou has two types of population recognized locally: the darker and the lighter folks.

As we drove to the village of Windward, our guide explained that these inhabitants are lighter skinned than those on the other side, thanks to the presence of an enterprising Scot by the name of Bogles, who has become somewhat of a local legend. He not only introduced European genes but also built boats and taught the local population to fish. As a result, this is one of the few places in the islands where they make boats and maintain a fishing tradition. They are also visibly lighter skinned than the average Afro-Caribbean.

During lunch we repositioned into the old harbor in the town of St. Georges, on the island of Grenada. The contrast with quaint and rustic little Carriacou was startling. Grenada is a fairly high island with at least five forts built when the French and English fought over the island. Fort Frederick, located on a high hill over the town of St. Georges, commands a magnificent panaroma of the town and the surrounding hills.

It also seems a somewhat prosperous island, although some of the prosperity comes from relatives in the UK, Canada and the US. The buildings in the main city and the smaller towns are quite well maintained and painted in various shades of pink and salmon. They seem well maintained and the newer buildings are owner occupied apartment houses.

Several interesting cottage industries have developed on this island processing jams and jellies spiced with local nutmeg and other spices. Rum is another important business on the island although the sugar is now imported from Guyana.

We circled the southern side of the island, ending up at a lively beachfront a watering hole called the Umbrella where a robust rum punch helped shed the last vestiges of decorum from those of us who still clung to our northern reserve. In the evening we continued to vigorously cultivate the Caribbean spirit by energetically dancing to the hypnotic island rhythms of a steel band playing on the Lido Deck.

Grenada Fort George from the ship

It also seems a somewhat prosperous island, although some of the prosperity comes from relatives in the UK, Canada and the US. The buildings in the main city and the smaller towns are quite well maintained and painted in various shades of pink and salmon. They seem well maintained and the newer buildings are owner occupied apartment houses.

Several interesting cottage industries have developed on this island processing jams and jellies spiced with local nutmeg and other spices. Rum is another important business on the island although the sugar is now imported from Guyana.

We circled the southern side of the island, ending up at a lively beachfront a watering hole called the Umbrella where a robust rum punch helped shed the last vestiges of decorum from those of us who still clung to our northern reserve. In the evening we continued to vigorously cultivate the Caribbean spirit by energetically dancing to the hypnotic island rhythms of a steel band playing on the Lido Deck.

The Clipper Odyssey had a full complement of passengers, some widely travelled but a few who had never been to the developing world before. I asked one from each ‘camp’ to say what she most enjoyed about the voyage.

First Marion Smith, whose rugged travels make my own adventures seem tame.

“I don’t do packages. Not adventurous; too many tourists. Where is the thrill?”

Nosy Mangabe, Madagascar

The boat dropped anchor at about 10.00 in Antongil Bay. The small uninhabited island is part of the Masoala National Park Complex. Landed by Zodiac and saw a black-and-white lemur draped over a branch like a collapsed pancake merging into a tree in the shade of the leaves, occasional movement of a dangling limb. My first wild lemur! Immediately started a three-hour walk on a jungle path; climbing steeply up through primary rain forest echoing with strident birds, soft lemur grunts and mysterious rustlings. Oh the lizards, spiders, butterflies and millipedes! Geckos hidden, perfectly plastered to a tree trunk, immobile. After lunch back to the island to swim, beach comb and potter around. Suddenly the trees were filled with a troop of tail swishing, chattering, bounding brown lemurs; fantastic!  Another swim under the glorious setting sun, then into the zodiac to return to the ship. The weather changed, the sky darkened, the clouds glowered on the horizon and the wind whipped up the waves.

I don’t do packages!

Now from Margaret Sheppard, who had never been to a developing country before.

Impressions

Contrast between lives of African people and luxury of our life-style, e.g. walking along the waterfront on arrival in Dar es Salaam then relaxing in the infinity pool at the hotel; bus excursions through shockingly over-crowded neighbourhoods in Mozambique and Madagascar followed by exclusive dining on board ship.

Above all, though, the opportunity to communicate with some of the wonderful smiling local children in their open-air school in Pemba, and the privilege of showing a small group from Toamasina round the ship, both really delightful experiences.

Landing by Zodiac on a picture post-card (white sand, turquoise sea) deserted tropical island and snorkelling for the first time.

Excursions by Zodiac to explore uninhabited islands around Madagascar, walking through lush rain forest teeming with exotic wild-life, seeing and hearing so many truly amazing creatures in their natural habitats: lemurs, chameleons, leaf-tailed geckos, frogs, tortoises, turtles —and a boa snake.

Swimming in the deepest, clearest, exquisitely blue Indian Ocean, hundreds of miles from land.

First sight of Madagascar from deck of ship as sun rose over the mountains.

Darkness of night on deck under glorious multitude of Southern stars.

Fascinating talks on a wide variety of relevant topics, just when you thought there’d be time to do your washing.

Finally, after leaving the ship, a couple of days awakening to all the birds of Mauritius singing their hearts out, and paddling my own canoe amidst the coral reefs just off-shore. Then a last swim before sunrise, followed by a window seat for the return journey by plane to UK, with views of incredible cloud patterns and their shadows over the deserts of North Africa.

And, from Liz Hughes.

It is always the unexpected that stays with you the longest. I had visited Madagascar before, and of course expected to see terrible poverty. What I was not expecting was Sunday afternoon in Toasmasina.

We were driving back from visiting a zoo cum santuary for lemurs at Ivoloina. At first on just a dirt track, and late on a surprisingly good road, we passed through villages with smnall dirty houses and simple shops and eating places where the locals were enying an afternoon of rest. By the time we reached the outskirts of Toasmania the streets were filled with every type of shop or small business you can imagine. The main street market was in full swing, stretching for hal a mile along the main road and many stalls deep – I could not see an end to them.

Clothes, tin pots, fruits, baskets, unrecognisable implements, bottles, sweets – just anything was for sale. As we neared the port we passed through the centre of the town. and here was the unexpected sight: a flourishing ‘middle’ class out on a Sunday afternoon. A traffic jam to rival any in the Western world. Young men on new and shiny motor bikes. Young women, two or three to a pousse-pousse, dressed up and on their mobile phones while the driver weaved in and out. Stalls selling melons and coconuts. Families spending the day on the beach, playing football or picnicking with young children. It was lovely to see.

And lastly, I thought it appropriate to incorporate a lovely comment from Kim, who came on board to talk to our passengers about their charity HELP Madagascar. Margaret, who has kindly contributed to this blog, was one of the people who showed the kids around the ship. Their visit was so well received and it’s nice our passengers to learn a bit about what’s being done to alleviate poverty.

“The true purpose of this e-mail is to thank you both for your kindness in receiving HELP on your ship and for allowing us to share the story of our students with your passengers. Our three students were enthralled and have had extra-bright smiles every day since their visit. I am not kidding when I say that they have a different sense of confidence after having such a unique experience. And my son Angelo keeps wistfully asking when he can go back on cruise ship!”

In 2011 more than 800,000 cruise ships docked at Mexican ports bringing with them five million passengers.

Mexico’s Secretary of Tourism, Gloria Guevara said: “These tourists dock at Mexico’s luxurious ports of call to experience our rich culture, climate, beaches and UNESCO World Heritage-listed gastronomical offering.”

Find out more by reading this press release.

Foods you must eat in Normandy

Mexico isn’t the only cruise-ship destination which offers fantastic food. Far closer to home, in Normandy, there are delights to sate the appetite of the most discerning foodies. A new blog on the Discover France website has produced a guide to the cuisine on offer in this delightful corner of France. To find out more about delicacies such as triple-cream brie cheese, apple brandy and chitterling sausage, read the full article at Discover France.

Tour ancient Rome with the click of a mouse

Have you ever wondered what it’s like to wander around ancient Rome and see what the city was like in Roman times? Well now you can thanks to a group of international scientists who have constructed a 3D video version of the city circa 320AD which takes people on a guided tour of the coliseums, bubbling fountains and temples found in Rome at the time.

To get a sneak preview of the tour visit thestar.com.

Britons’ ‘shocking lack of knowledge’ about their own country

A new survey has revealed that while Britons have a sound knowledge of famous foreign cities such as Rome and Paris, we have some alarming misconceptions about famous landmarks in our own isles.

A poll conducted by Journeys of Distinction found that half of Britons think Mount Everest is in the UK with almost a quarter of adults believing that Ayers Rock is too.

Find out more worrying misconceptions by reading this Daily Mail article.

[The photo of Acapulco Bay accompanying this article is by Justin Landau]

Over the last century, the island has been enclosed by mud and Mont St. Michel has lost its natural ‘floating’ island setting. However, an ambitious restoration project will commence in April 2012 which will involve building a dam to divert the silt which has been clogging up the island’s environment. It is hoped that the scheme will improve visitor access to the commune.

Read more about the fascinating history of Mont St. Michel at the Washington Times.

Sun more important than patriotism to UK travellers

The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee has provided Brits with a few well-deserved days off but research has shown that many would prefer holidaying abroad in sunny climes to staying at home and waving a flag.

According to a survey by price comparison site Dealchecker, Spain tops the list of places to go during the four-day Diamond Jubilee extended weekend from June 2^nd to June 5^th.

Find out more at Travel Weekly.

Berlin Madame Tussauds unveils Anne Frank figure

Controversy has greeted the unveiling of a new Anne Frank waxwork figure in Berlin’s branch of Madame Tussauds with some people saying that such an “unserious location” shouldn’t display a likeness of a Holocaust victim.

Defenders of the move point out that the waxwork will let people learn more about history as there is information to accompany it.

To read the full article, and find out what happened to a Hitler waxwork which appeared in Berlin’s Madame Tussauds in 2008, visit the Jewish Telegraph Agency.

Internet tips at sea

Cruise Critic has just produced a list of 9 things you need to know before trying to access the internet on board a cruise ship.

One of the tips is to head to the Equator for a better connection. To find out the other eight tips please read the full article at Cruise Critic.

According to an article on the TabTimes website, this little invention is popping up on cruise ship restaurants, cabins, decks and shops and enabling passengers to stay in touch with the office and take virtual tours of the ship.

You can read more about how tablets can improve the quality of your cruise ship journey at TabTimes.

Rome bee swarms ‘not a threat’ to holidaymakers

Rome is experiencing warmer-than-normal temperatures at the moment – a mini heat-wave which has meant that flowers are blooming earlier than they usually do in this beautiful city. However, it has also resulted in large swarms of bees flying around at a time of year when they are not normally not seen.

Local beekeeper Stephen Stewart has spoken out to reassure members of the public and holidaymakers that the bees are “not normally aggressive” and that, after settling on a tree branch or bush or shrub will normally move on and find a suitable nesting location in a day or two.

Read the full article at Rome News Tribune.

Moonrise Kingdom to open Cannes film festival

A movie starring Bruce Willis, Bill Murray and Tilda Swinton will open this year’s Cannes Film Festival. The film was made by American director Wes Anderson and will be shown at a star-studded event on May 16^th. May is a time when Cannes is filled with stars and is a great place to visit at any time of the year.

Read the full article about Cannes’ opening-night film at The Belfast Telegraph.

[The picture accompanying this article is by blmiers2]

The Pacific Princess provided the backdrop for the popular television series The Love Boat – an hour-length comedy which was credited with leading to a boom in cruise ship bookings in the 70s.

Romance and adventures on the high seas was the order of the day on The Love Boat but the programme, which was first aired in 1977, was scrapped in 1986.

Now the Pacific Princess looks like being scrapped too – it has been sold to a Turkish demolition company.

Read all about the fate of 1970s television’s most famous ship at USA Today

Queen’s tips on avoiding an upset stomach abroad

Who better to advise you about how to avoid picking up a dodgy stomach abroad than the Queen? Her Majesty apparently keeps the royal constitution in tip-top shape by avoiding eating salads, shellfish or watermelon when dining in foreign climes.

The news was leaked by Parliament’s ‘Father of the House’ Sir Peter Tapsell.

Find out more royal gossip by reading the full article at the Daily Mail.

Priscilla Presley to become cruise ship godmother

Appointing a ‘godmother’ to christen a new cruise ship by smashing a bottle of champagne is a big deal in the US. As they don’t have a royal family to do the honours, the stars of TV and film are often called on to carry out the christening duties. Priscilla Presley is one such celeb; she has agreed to become godmother to the American Queen before the American cruise ship/steamboat embarks on its maiden journey from Memphis port. Read more about the tradition of women christening cruise ships at the Chicago Tribune.

Great Scott’s life celebrated in song

Cambridge University is to stage a musical evening celebrating the life of Captain Scott of the Antarctic on 27^th March 2012.

The university’s Polar Museum will be the place to be to hear songs about the Antarctic explorer composed by guitarist Jake Wilson.

Discover more about this interesting evening at Creative Boom.

 [The picture of the Pacific Princess in Venice which accompanies this article is by 16g]

Many species with small numbers start to become in-bred – further threatening their survival. However, scientists from Oregon University believe this is not the case with the Antarctic Blue Whale; raising hopes that the whales might one day be taken off the critically-endangered list.

There were believed to be just 400 blue whales patrolling the Antarctic waters in 1966 – the year when they became protected from commercial hunting. Many of the whales in the Antarctic today were probably around in 1966 – these magnificent creatures can live for between 70 to 100 years.

Find out more at Live Science.

Istanbul gears up for film festival

Istanbul is counting down the days until its 31^st Film Festival begins – the curtain goes back on the first film on 31^st March.

‘The Deep Blue Sea’, a film starring Rachel Weisz, will open proceedings and another 200 movies will be shown in the following fortnight.

Discover more about the line-up at Hurriyet Daily News.

Models stranded as Eurostar chaos hits Paris Fashion Week

Catwalk models were left kicking their heels as cancellations to Eurostar trains disrupted travel plans in the run-up to Paris Fashion Week.

Four trains were cancelled on Monday evening (5^th March) and some passengers were left stranded on trains for up to nine hours because of a faulty overhead cable.

To find out how the miffed models vented their frustration on Twitter, please read the full article at the Daily Mail.

[The picture accompanying this article is by Fred Benko]

The islands are famous for their amazing variety of indigenous wildlife and the possible discovery of a new species of shark lurking at the bottom of the ocean has caused much excitement.

To take a look at what this new variety of catfish shark looks like – be warned: it bears little resemblance to Jaws – take a look at the full article in today’s San Francisco Chronicle.

A new route for seeing Istanbul artefacts

A new project is to be undertaken in Istanbul which will create a treasure trail of artefacts for visitors to this rich and fascinating city to follow.

The artefacts will include wonderful pottery, weapons and jewellery dating from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman ages and will be displayed at metro stations, churches and other landmarks along a specially-designated route.

For more details, please read the full story at Today’s Zaman

Vatican opens up its secret archives

A special exhibition of the Vatican’s secret archives has opened in Rome.

Entitled Lux in Arcana, the exhibition is staged at the city’s Capitoline Museum and will run until 9^th September.

People attending the display will get a chance to see items such as:

• A letter from the English parliament which requests that the Pope annul the marriage of King Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon
• Documents relating to the trial of Galileo Galilei
• A letter written on silk by Empress Helena Wang of China to Pope Innocent X

For more details, take a look at the Catholic San Francisco online edition

Our next day was spent in the Darien – a unique area of river and forest that boarders Colombia to the east, the Caribbean coast to North and the Pacific to South. There are no roads through the region and the ‘Darien Gap’ is the only break in the transcontinental highway leading from Alaska to Patagonia. People still live in a traditional way and our journey up the Sambu river to visit the people of Chunga village was fascinating. The Embara Indians use a dye made from the juice of the fruit of the Genip tree to paint their bodies, it acts as a natural sun block and insect repellant, and is decorative to boot!

The contrast between the simple village and the tower blocks of Panama City could not have been more startling. Thick jungle grows on either side of the Panama Canal to protect the water catchment that feeds the locks. We visited the Rainforest centre with a tower built amongst the trees that provided a splendid view of the canopy. Bird life was in profusion and we spotted agoutis and monkeys in the reserve. The highlight of the cruise for many was our transit of the Panama Canal. An amazing feat of engineering that is close to one hundred years old. Even here the contrast of high-tech and simple yet practical was in evidence. The pilot has all manner of computer technology at his disposla, the mules that keep the ship steady cost one million dollars each, but the line handlers that bring the cables to the ship use a simple rowing boat! Our last stop in Panama was at the San Blas Islands- were the community is famous for their Molas – wonderfully decorative cloth. Panama was a treat both for wildlife, culture and the unique journey from ocean to ocean.

Travelers Digest named Stockholm in Sweden as the best place to spot good-looking men with New York City claiming the runners-up spot.

The full list, which includes no British cities, is: Stockholm, New York City, Amsterdam, Lisbon, Buenos Aires, Sydney, Madrid, Berlin, Milan, Tel Aviv.

The website has already produced a list of the best cities to visit to see attractive women with Kiev (in the Ukraine) taking the top spot. The others on the list are, in order: Stockholm, New York City, Buenos Aires, Varna (Bulgaria), Tel Aviv, Amsterdam, Seoul and Montreal.

Read the full list of cities with the world’s best looking men here

Read the full list of cities with the world’s best looking women here

However, this situation seems set to change now that Burmese political party the National League for Democracy (NLD) has relaxed its call for a tourism boycott of Burma. This softening of the NLD stance has led to a reported upsurge in Brits’ interest in travelling to the country.

The Telegraph has tipped Burma, a destination favoured by many Noble Caledonia cruise ship travellers, as being one of the best places to go in 2012 and the tip currently looks to be a shrewd one.

Read the full story at the Telegraph

Find out about the real Best Exotic Marigold Hotel

Newly-release film The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, which stars Bill Nighy, Dame Judie Dench and Tom Wilkinson, is a superb showcase for the beautiful scenery of India and seems certain to attract tourists to Jaipur – the city where much of the action is set.

Travel company manager Jonny Belby managed to beat the hordes of film tourists beating a path to the area to sample the delights of a city which is a thrilling part of the itenirary of several Noble Caledonia cruises.

You can read about Jonny’s experiences of seeing dancing stallions perform outside turreted buildings by reading the full article at the Daily Mail.

The 150^th anniversary falls on 14^th July 2012 and nine exhibitions will be vying for art lovers’ attention as the Austrian capital honours Klimt.

Many tourists will be keen to see Klimt’s most famous painting, The Kiss, which will be displayed at its home museum, the Belvedere Palace.

The picture depicts a couple wrapped in elaborate golden robes embracing. Klimt painted his masterpiece when he was 45 and living at home with his mother and two unmarried sisters.

The Kunsthistorische art history museum will be another magnet for art lovers as it is set to display 13 paintings and initial drafts dating from the middle part of the symbolist painter’s career.

Read the full article at Total Travel

Mariah Carey and Jerry Seinfeld help launch new Disney ship

Pop diva Mariah Carey and comedian Jerry Seinfeld, together with a sailor-suited Mickey Mouse, helped launch the new Disney cruise ship yesterday (Thursday, 1^st March 2012).

The event took place at Manhattan Cruise Terminal with Carey, whose voice seems capable of breaking glass when she hits the high notes, saying: “May God bless this ship and all who sail on it” as Minnie Mouse broke a bottle of champagne against the side of the ship.

Seinfeld later gave a speech, during which he joked: “Oh my God, I’m on a boat. Finally, I get to see what the end of my career will be like.”

Read the full story at USA Today

The beleaguered Southern Irish economy has received a boost with the news that plans for a €30m cruise ship terminal at Dublin port have been drawn up.

In 2011, a relatively modest total of 85 cruise ships (carrying 130,000 passengers) docked in Dublin Port. With the proposed terminal capable of holding two ships, rather than one ship, at a time this number could be set to grow considerably.

The €30m investment makes sound sense on paper as cruise ships bring in €50m worth of business every year.

However, there is opposition to the plans; local residents have raised concerns about the level of noise at the port and launched a protest meeting yesterday (29^th February 2012).

Read the full story at the Irish Independent

Holidaymakers ‘to enjoy cheaper phone calls this summer’

The cost of making mobile phone calls while abroad could be slashed in time for the summer after European Union lawmakers voted for a further cut in the roaming charges imposed by telecom companies.

Roaming charges are imposed because phone networks have to work a little bit harder to route calls made by people travelling abroad. The EU has been keen to reduce the charges in response to reports which have queried the amount of profit generated by companies imposing them.

It is thought that the mobile roaming charges could fall by as much as 66 per cent over the next two years.

Some telecoms companies believe the cuts go too far and are sure to mount spirited opposition to further capping.

Read the full story at the Daily Mail

The campaign is called ‘join the watch’ and its followers want a series of protected areas created in the seas surrounding Antarctica.

Sir Richard Branson has also joined the campaign which aims to make the Ross Seas the globe’s biggest fully-protected marine reserve.

The Commission for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources is the organisation which has the power to make the ‘join the watch’ manifesto reality.

Edward Norton said: “There’s a moment of opportunity here to apply pressure and send a signal that millions of people are watching this process and are saying ‘don’t let us down’.”

Read the full story at the Press Association

‘Boris Island’ plans hit by hitch

Plans to build a hub airport in the Thames Marshes have been hit by the news that the area has been named as one of 12 Nature Improvement Areas.

The Isle of Grain, which is in the middle of the plans for a four-runway airport hub airport, is one of the protected zones.

Read the full story at the Telegraph

The Adonia and the Star Princess had almost 3,000 passengers on board and arrived in Ushuaia port on the southern tip of Argentina as the country celebrated a public holiday.

No official reason was given for the ships being denied entry and, after the ships headed to Chile, British diplomats began to seek clarification.

Jane Archer, a passenger on board the Adonia, told BBC News: “It’s simply the fact that we were in the Falklands.”

Read the full story at BBC News

Proof-reading error spells trouble for VisitBritain

An advertising campaign extolling the virtues of a trip to the Welsh countryside has referred to the Brecon Beacons as the ‘Breacon Beacons’.

The mis-spelling has appeared on international posters designed to highlight Britain’s attractions to tourists in the year that the London Olympics and the Diamond Jubilee take place.

A member of the public spotted the mistake as they saw a poster while travelling on the Subway in New York.

Read the full story at the Daily Mail

[The picture accompanying this article shows Tierra del Fuego: the place in Argentina nearest to the port where the British cruise ships were turned away. Photo by Pedro Guridi]

Howler Monkey

The Wonders of the Ancient & Natural World trip ended with several days in Costa Rica. I have worked for twelve years on expedition cruise ships and although I have travelled several times in Central and South America, I have never visited Costa Rica before. It has a reputation as a haven for wildlife and it did not disappoint.

Scarlet Macaw

We then sailed to the the Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas to visit Orchid House and the Osa wildlife rescue centre, were Seetie the rescued Spider Monkey stole our hearts. Wild nature abounded at both locations with toucans and a pair of Great Currasow putting in an appearance.

White-Faced Capuchin

The following day we had a fantastic morning at Corcovado National Park and I saw my first White-nosed Coatis fighting and foraging on the beach. The highlight of the afternoon was when a troop of White-faced Capuchin monkeys who came to visit the beach we had picked to swim and snorkel from.

Our final day of the cruise was spent at Manuel Antonio National Park where we had splendid encounters with Two and Three-toed sloths, Howler and Capuchin monkeys and a cheeky Raccoon. For a mammal and bird lover our days in Costa Rica were an unforgettable treat.

Former News of the World columnist and TV pundit Nina Myskow, has just enjoyed a cruise to Rouen and Bruges; both of which are popular Noble Caledonia destinations. Find out how Nina’s journey involved Victoria Wood and Monet by reading the full article at the Daily Mail.

Cruise travel hits prime time TV

Cruises come under the TV spotlight on Wednesday at 9pm on Wednesday on BBC2. Wonderland: Two Jews On A Cruise follows a north London couple as they go on a 12-day kosher cruise of the Med.

Those interested in life on the high seas should also tune in to Jeremy Paxman on Empire (Monday, 9pm, BBC 1) where the Newsnight presenter talks about the days when Britannia ruled the waves.

There’s also Timothy Spall: All At Sea (Tuesday, 8:30pm, BBC4); a look at the Brummie actor’s quest to travel around the coast of Britain in a boat.

For more information on these programmes read today’s article at the Guardian.

What’s the most luxurious cruise in the world like?

It’s a cruise which takes in 28 countries and lasts 124 days – but it will set you back £1 million. Find out what you will get for your money by reading this article at the Daily Mail.

[The picture of Rouen which accompanies this article is by zigazou76]

Visas are already free for cruise guests who stay for under 24 hours but the Arab state hopes that more long-stay tourists will visit now that the price has been slashed for ten-day visits. A ten-day visit will now cost 5 OMR (about £8).

The port of Muscat (the capital of Oman) is already a popular stopping-off point for cruise ships – Noble Caledonia vessels frequently dock there.

Full story: Travel Weekly

Parents who take children on holiday during term time ‘could face fine’

The government is considering fining parents who take their children out of school to go on holiday.

Under current laws, head teachers can use their discretion to allow parents to take their children out of school for ten days each school year for the purpose of going on holiday.

However, there are concerns that many parents see this as their right and the government is said to be keen to improve attendance rates in schools.

Parents point out that holidays are often far more expensive to book during the school holidays.

Read the full article at the Daily Mail

Which? survey highlights ‘rip-off’ travel charges

Consumer watchdog Which? has claimed that some travel firms are applying ‘rip-off’ charges to customers.

The latest edition of the Which? travel magazine put 188 companies under the spotlight and found evidence of travel firms, airlines, hotel chains and hire companies using:

• Expensive premium rate 0871 or 090 calling codes
• Adding surcharges to card payments
• Advertising ‘free offers’ with hidden costs attached

Ryanair was found to have the most expensive telephone number (£1 per minute from a landline) and some operators were found to be adding a £2 charity donation to the price of a holiday without warning the customer.

Read the full article at Travel Weekly

[The picture of the mosque in Muscat which accompanies this article is by xiquinhosilva]

Speaking at a cruise conference in Alabama, the minister said: “When you sail into Port-au-Prince, my friends, you will be making history. Yours will be the first cruise ship to visit our capital in a quarter of a century.”

Read the full article at Caribbean Journal

Hague’s Greek holiday advice slammed

Foreign secretary William Hague’s advice that Britons travelling to Greece should register with the British consulate in case of civil unrest has been condemned for being “alarmist”.

The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) has stressed that the problems in Greece are confined to just two areas – around Syntagma Square by the Greek Parliament in Athens and in the centre of Thessaloniki.

AITO chairman Derek Moore said: “The riots in London, Manchester and Birmingham last summer were on a significantly bigger scale than anything in Greece – yet did the Home Secretary, Theresa May, advise people against visiting the Cotswolds or the Lake District?”

Read the full article at the Telegraph

Pack a portable breathalyser before crossing the channel

From 1^st July 2012 all drivers on French roads will be legally required to carry a portable breath-testing kit in their cars.

This means that British drivers crossing the channel should pack a kit before they go – or buy one at a Channel port. The kits are expected to cost up to £2 and will prove a vital way for motorists to check whether they are over the French legal limit of 50mg per 100ml of blood (30 mg lower than in the UK).

Read the full story at http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/9095573/Motorists-will-have-to-carry-portable-breathalyser-in-France.html

[The picture of sunset at Port-au-Prince which accompanies this article is by Michelle Walz]

Read all about Graham’s Alaskan experiences in this Daily Mail article.

Captain Scott’s friendship with Peter Pan creator

The unlikely friendship between Antarctic explorer Captain Robert Falcon Scott and Peter Pan author J.M. Barrie is the subject of a fascinating article in the Telegraph.

It seems that Barrie longed for the life of adventure which his friend had. Scott in turn downplayed his life of action to his friend and, in his final resting place, wrote to Barrie: “I never met a man in my life whom I admired and loved more than you.”

The article also contains a reminder that, while Scott died in March 1912, the public did not learn of his death until February 1913 when the Terra Nova ship returned to New Zealand.

Read the full article at the Telegraph

Queen Elizabeth docks in Auckland

The 21-storey Queen Elizabeth cruise ship spent Monday at Auckland waterfront as part of a round-the-world tour to mark Queen Elizabeth II’s diamond jubilee.

Read the full story at New Zealand News

Breathtaking pictures of Iceland

And finally… Cambridge-based photographer James Appleton has spent the past seven years photographing the volatile landscapes of Iceland. You can see the results of James’s skilful handiwork at the Telegraph.

[The photo of Alaska which accompanies this article is by blmiers2]

That could all be about to change now that the musical is being put on in the Salzburg State Theatre. Actress Helen Atkinson Wood has been over to Salzburg – a popular Noble Caledonia destination – to see whether the hills of Salzburg are now alive with sounds from the musical.

Read the full article at the Daily Mail or travel to Salzburg to catch the musical; you have until September 2012.

Top ten prisons

To mark the 22^nd anniversary of Nelson Mandela’s release from Robben Island, the Telegraph has drawn up a list of the top ten prisons you can visit in Britain and beyond.

Alcatraz, Devil’s Island and the Tower of London all feature. To find out the identity of the other prisons, read the full article at the Telegraph.

Kate Silverton’s life in travel

Over at the Independent, BBC TV presenter Kate Silverton looks back at her life of travelling and explains why her best travel experiences have come in Bali, the Maldives and Orkney. Read the full article at the Independent.

[The picture of Salzburg which accompanies this article is by ecv5]

The drawings were used by shipbuilders in the Scottish city of Dundee, who constructed the vessel. Discovery was launched in 1901 and is now once again in Dundee where she is a top tourist attraction.

To find out the amazing story of how the blueprints were rescued from being destroyed by a Yorkshire draughtsman, and how a chance conversation led to their re-discovery, read the full article at the Daily Telegraph.

German tourism numbers on the rise

New research has shown that Germany is now the second most popular travel destination for Europeans. According to the German National Tourist Office, there was a six per cent rise in the number of tourist visitors in 2011.

The Netherlands and Switzerland are the “largest source markets” for Germany’s tourism trade – only Spain receives more tourists from within Europe than Germany does.

Read the full article at Travel Weekly.

Beckham signs up for VisitBritain

Noble Caledonia organises some great holidays in Germany but you don’t have to travel that far away to have an adventurous experience.

VisitBritain is currently running a campaign to promote the glorious sights you can see on your own doorstep and targeting 14 cities around the world in an attempt to boost tourism numbers in Olympic year.

It has just been announced that Victoria Beckham is joining the campaign by shooting a short film emphasising Britain’s contribution to the world of fashion.

It’s good to know that the Los Angeles-based singer is still banging the drum for Britain.

Full story: Daily Mirror

[The picture of RSS Discovery in Dundee which accompanies this article is by uwwees]

That is the conclusion of research conducted by BDRC Continental which found that the proportion of people planning to visit Greece now stands at nine per cent, compared to eight per cent the same time last year.

In contrast, the proportion of UK holidaymakers planning an Arab spring break in Egypt has fallen from eight per cent to six per cent.

James Hickman, managing director of currency exchange firm Caxton FX, believes that if Greece, as is widely expected, drops out of the euro, the country could actually become a “cheaper alternative” to going to the Italian Rivera or Iberian coast.

Full story: The Guardian

Eurosceptic writer Mary Ellen Synon, writing in the Irish Daily Mail, goes even further. She wrote today: “My advice is that the moment you hear Greece has dropped out of the euro, book your ticket to a Greek island. The Greek tourist industry will boom once the country is out of the euro.”

Read full article: Daily Mail

Other advice comes from Greek people contributing to discussion forum threads posing the question: “Is it safe to go to Greece on holiday?” A typical post reassures: “Remember that the Greek people are protesting at the government. Their anger is very focused and isn’t pointed at you.”

[The photo which accompanies this article is by Jon Kleinman]

Island Sky at Cocos Island

To make a landfall at a tropical island is a thrill, even to the most experienced Mariner. Yesterday around noontime the first signs of Cocos Island were showing on the Horizon and the excitement was visible all over the vessel after a voyage of over 500 Nautical Miles from the port of Manta, Ecuador. Ever since I joined the Island Sky a couple of weeks ago I have been looking forward to seeing this remote island, and I was not disappointed when we first went ashore with the Zodiacs yesterday afternoon. Cocos Island is not a big island; actually you need a quite detailed map of the Pacific Ocean to even find it. It is not inhabited, but there are a few park Rangers that are overseeing that no fishing or other disturbance of the wildlife is taking place in the National Park. Since Cocos Island is so isolated and has plenty of fresh water, it used to be a haunt for the pirates a few centuries back when they were looting the Spanish Galleons. According to legend, the Great Treasure of Lima is buried on the island, and many people through the years have sailed here to look for the gold. Coming here is like a childhood dream come true, particularly for somebody who as a young boy dreamed of exploring the Seven Seas and visiting far away places.

Dolphins at Sea

The name of this particular Cruise is “Wonders of the Ancient and Natural World” and we have certainly seen some wonders since I arrived on board in Valparaiso some time ago. Every day at sea we have seen schools of dolphins, some whales and a lot of birds typical of this area. Here at Cocos we marvel at the Frigate birds that glide at the top of the high peaks ( Mt. Iglesias is in fact 1600 ft high), and the Boobies and Terns that catch fish in the area near our vessel, at anchor in Chatham Bay.

Boobies follow the Ship

Before reaching the territory of Costa Rica we have visited some Peruvian ports as well as explored the Islas Lobos de Afuera, which translated means “the Remote Islands of Sea Lions”. We also made a call at the port of Manta, where our guests visited Montecristi, home of the Panama Hat, and the Machalilla National Park. When we return to the Mainland, in Costa Rica we will call at Golfo Dulce to see the Orchid House, Drake’s Bay in order to visit the Corcovado National Park, and Quepos at the Manuel Antonio National Park, before this cruise has its end at Puntarenas on the 17^th of February.

On the 10^th of February we had a visit from King Neptune and his entourage, as we had crossed the Equator in the morning. The visit included a baptism ceremony for those who had not earlier crossed the Line, and was good fun for the others to watch. Luckily, King Neptune was in a good mood, and everybody involved will receive a certificate from the “Ruler of the Raging Main”.

Since I am new to this vessel, and this is my first Captain’s Blog, it might be appropriate to introduce myself properly: As a young boy I spent a lot of time with my Grandfather, who was once Captain of one of the big windjammers in the Grain Trade from Australia to the UK. Often visiting the Museum vessel Pommern in Mariehamn and the Maritime Museum, a career at Sea was the goal already at an early age. Coming from a family of seafarers on the Åland Islands of Finland in the Northern Baltic, I have spent many years on board sailing ships of various sizes. The Sea Cloud II, well-known to Noble Caledonia, was one of the ships under my command. I have also worked on cargo ships and various passenger vessels.

After a period as Vice-Rector at the Maritime Academy of Åland University of Applied Sciences, with shorter spells at Sea in between, I recently gave up my job on the shore to enjoy life at Sea again full time. The operation of the vessels at Salén Ship Management is in many ways similar to the cruises on the Sea Clouds, apart from the sails. So when the offer to join the Island Sky as Captain came, it was impossible to resist. Many of the destinations are familiar, and some new, exotic places are yet to come.

Before I end this Blog today I must tell you about yesterday evening: After the refreshing swim in the creek under the hanging bridge, the galley team had prepared a Grand Barbeque. Expedition Leader Jane had invited the National Park Wardens on board to give us more information about Cocos Island, and after the briefing the party started.

Barbecue on Board

Everybody was impressed by the fruit carvings and the beautiful setting of the BBQ buffet, and it almost seemed sacrilegious to dig into the pieces of art that the table represented. At the far end of the buffet there was a jazz band of chickens and fruit carvings that made many of the guests stop to admire them, and the Melon Penguin with a Carrot nose caused many to smile. Head Chef Luis and his team deserved a round of applause for the fantastic BBQ, as did our Hotel Manager Antony and the other singers accompanied by Tuts, the great musician. We sure have a Happy Ship here!

Trujillo on a Sunday Afternoon

Passengers embarked in Calloa, the port city of Lima and in the port we had our first wonder of the natural world, thousands of Franklins’ gulls dotted the water and swirled in unison when disturbed by a passing ship. By the following afternoon we had come in alongside at Salaverry and visited the charming city of Turjillo. It was splendid to be there on a Sunday afternoon to ‘people watch’ as the locals relaxed on the beach or strolled around the central square, listening to the local band playing.

Huaca de la Luna

Our Monday was spent visiting two of the wonders of the ancient world - the pyramids of Huaca de la Luna with its astonishing wall reliefs and blood thirsty history of human sacrifices and the walled adobe city of Chan Chan, now a UNESCO world heritage site. We also watched a demonstration of ‘horse men of the sea’ – reed canoes that are still used by local fishermen.

Lobos de Afuera-Pelican's at Church

Our last stop in Peru was a nature lover’s paradise. Lobos de Afuera is a set of islands 33 nautical miles from the mainland and completely covered in breeding Peruvian pelicans, blue-footed boobies and Peruvian boobies. It is hard to describe the cacophony of noise (and the pungent smell!) that assaulted our senses as we boarded the zodiacs for an early morning cruise.

Lobos de Afuera - Southern Sealions

Most zodiacs found a calm channel and a small harbour used by local fisherman, but even here the birds had taken over, the small chapel was covered in pelicans. One of the smaller islands had been taken over by Southern sealions and massive bulls squabbled for the females and pups had to be dragged away from the fights- a real wildlife spectacle!

The adverts had the headline ‘Red Hot Fares & Crew’ and were accompanied by a picture showing women posing in bra and pants. Ryanair claimed that the adverts weren’t sexist as crew members volunteered to take part. However, the advertising watchdog disagreed and the adverts have been pulled.

In July 2010, Ryanair chief Michael O’Leary had to pay £50,000 in libel fees to Easyjet founder Sir Stelios Haji-Ioannou after adverts depicted Sir Stelios as Pinocchio.

Full story: BBC News

Best binoculars

The Independent has taken a good look at binoculars before coming up with a top ten list. The cheapest pair in the round-up is £7.95 and the most expensive pair is £1,449 – find out what they are by reading the full article.

‘Black hole’ travel destinations

In the same newspaper there is also a list of the five best ‘black hole’ travel destinations – spots such as monasteries and inns where phones and other modern communications devices are strictly off-limits.  Read the full article to find out how you can get away from it all by “turning up, tuning out and logging off”. And remember; Noble Caledonia offers plenty of ‘get-away-from-it-all’ cruises.

[The picture accompanying this article is by Angelo Romano]

Just 12 per cent favour starting married life by having a honeymoon at a beach resort.

The research, conducted by Unique Honeymoons magazine, identified Tanzania – a Noble Caledonia cruise destination – as the most popular honeymoon hotspot for 2012.

Full article: Daily Mail

Good news for British holidaymakers (except skiers) as sterling strengthens

Research conducted by the Post Office has found that British holidaymakers heading abroad can get almost 11 per cent more for their pounds than they received this time last year. This holiday perk is thanks to the current strength of sterling.

However, there is an exception – the Swiss Franc has strengthened against sterling; meaning holiday-making British skiers might have to budget a little more!

Full article: Daily Telegraph

Queen Mary II arrives in Sydney with a mysterious banner

The Queen Mary II cruise ship caused quite a few ripples of excitement when it arrived in Sydney on Valentine’s Day with a 25-metre banner attached near its funnel.

The banner read: “Marry me Jess?” To find out who posed the question (and what the response was) watch this video posted at the Herald Sun.

[The picture of Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro which accompanies this article is by Koen Muurling]

However, Anthony Horowitz’s recent journey to the Antarctic Circle provided priceless research material for his new novel ‘Oblivion’: a fantasy adventure which climaxes with a battle at the end of the world. And it also gave him a chance to see a colony of Adelie penguins and a pod of humpback whales amid the splendid wilderness!

You can read all about Anthony’s experiences at the Telegraph’s travel site.

The Netherlands gears up for Eleven Cities ice skating marathon

It’s only taken place 15 times since 1909 but that hasn’t stopped feverish excitement from building up around the Netherlands’ Eleven Cities ‘race of races’ ice skating race.

Skaters, as many as 16,000 of them, will only be allowed to take to the frozen canals which line the 120-mile route if the ice is six-inches thick.

The race organisers will give 48 hours’ notice to competitors if the conditions allow the race to take place – the start and finish line is located in the northern city of Leeuwarden.

Read the full article in the Daily Telegraph and see some amazing pictures of the route.

Frozen canals in Venice

Perhaps an alternative route could be arranged along Venice’s canals – the city’s lagoon is covered in ice for the first time in over 20 years; the Telegraph has some great photos of frozen Venetian gondoliers and waterways.

[The picture of the Lemaire Channel in Antarctica which accompanies this article is by Liam Quinn]

Full article: Daily Mail

More information: Noble Caledonia profile of Sue

An amnesty on ‘lost’ items recovered from Scott of the Antarctic’s hut has resulted in two pairs of skis belonging to the South Pole explorer being returned to the Antarctic Heritage Trust.

To find out why the wooden skis – worn by Scott during his fateful 1912 expedition – were missing for over half a century (and who their new owner was) please read this article in The Australian.

Maldives unrest ‘not affecting’ UK holidaymakers

The Foreign Office has confirmed that the Maldives resorts favoured by British holidaymakers have not been affected by civil unrest in the islands.

Full story: Daily Telegraph

Zambia reaches African Cup of Nations final

Zambia, a place which features on several Noble Caledonia cruise journeys, has reached the final of football’s African Cup of Nations after defeating the more highly-rated Ghana in a tense semi-final. The underdogs will take on tournament favourites The Ivory Coast in Sunday’s final.

More information: BBC Sport

Russian experts began drilling at Vostok Ice Station, 800 miles east of the South Pole, in 1989.

It was only in 1994 that it was confirmed that there was a lake below the surface.

Then last week, on Sunday February 5^th 2012, the head of a Russian drill finally met the watery surface of Lake Vostok, 12,366 feet below ground level.

The team of workers, there are normally 30 at the station at any given time, have endured much hardship in their quest to reach Lake Vostok – the coldest-ever temperature on earth was recorded there (minus 89C on 21^st July 1983).

Drilling was also problematic – at a depth beyond 3,000 feet the ice became as hard as glass.

The lake itself is thought to be 800m deep and has an area of 15,000 square km; similar to the size of Lake Ontario in North America.

Of particular interest to the scientists is the question of whether the lakes’ waters have been sealed off (whether they have been isolated from other lakes). If this is the case, micro-organisms which have never been examined by human eyes might well have evolved over the last thousands and millions of years.

Hailing the discovery, NASA’s chief scientist Waleed Abdalati told Associated Press: “In the simplest sense, it can transform the way we think about life.”

It is significant that the comment was made by a NASA scientist – scientists believe that the pitch-black depths of the lake will re-create conditions experienced on Mars. If organisms can survive in Lake Vostok it could well suggest the existence of similar ‘life’ on Mars.

The latest breakthrough will give heart to other countries’ efforts to drill into secret lakes across the region. Just as different nations raced across land to the South Pole in Captain Scott’s day, so different nations are racing to journey downwards today.

An American crew has set up a scientific station near underground Lake Ellsworth in West Antarctica. And a British team is confident it can soon begin drilling into nearby Lake Ellsworth.

However, Lake Vostok is considered to be the crown jewels of the secret sub-glacial Antarctica lakes – as it is far larger and older than the ones the American and British teams are exploring.

The US won the space race and Norway triumphed in the race to the South Pole but Russia seems to have won the race to uncover the secrets of the world’s oldest (and coldest) lake.

Further information: Some amazing pictures of Vostok Ice Station on the BBC website

Full story: The Associated Press

[The Photo accompanying this article is by NASA Goddard Space Flight Centre]

A judgement made by the Court of Appeal means obese airline passengers might have to pay for an extra seat in order to board a flight. The ruling might prevent disabled passengers from seeking compensation on the grounds of receiving unsatisfactory service during a flight. This verdict could well make cruise ship travel even more attractive.

Full story: Daily Telegraph

Cruise to Bahrain cancelled

Luxury cruise liner Aida Blu will not be calling at Khalifa bin Salman Port in Bahrain this week and next week. The decision to avoid the port has been made due to “the security situation in the country” however, normal service should be resumed soon.

Full story: Gulf Daily News

Independent reviews the world’s best carnivals

On a more positive note, the Independent has just posted an article about the world’s top carnival parties – including information about carnival season in Rio, Asia, the Caribbean, Italy, France and London.

Full article: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/news-and-advice/the-greatest-shows-on-earth-6649490.html

[The picture accompanying this article is by Tom Rafferty]

A cruise ship at the Port of Miami. Picture by Mig Rodz

The London-based International Maritime Organisation has said that the world’s largest ships are “robustly regulated and safe to sail”. The secretary-general of the UN agency stated: “We haven’t established any limitation based on scale when it comes to safety requirements, however, we can make sure all the ships are safe.”

Full story: Business Week

Heathrow travel chaos

It’s a good time to be in a warm cruise-ship cabin as snow and icy conditions continue to cause problems around the roads and airport runways of Europe. At Heathrow airport 40 flights were cancelled and a spokesman admitted that the airport will always struggle with snow as it is stretched to its capacity in terms of passenger numbers.

Full story: Daily Telegraph

Time to remember Captain Scott

2012 is a year to remember the life of intrepid traveller Captain Scott of the Antarctic (January 17^th was the 100^th anniversary of his death at the South Pole). Many of the national newspapers have featured stories on an exhibition at the Natural History Museum which charts the explorers’ life. ‘Scott’s last exhibition’ runs until 2^nd September 2012 and features rare artefacts used by Scott’s team together with a life-sized representation of Scott’s hut.

More information: Natural History Museum

Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands. Picture by Skinnyde

The Falkland Islands has long been a stop-off point for cruise ships, with tourists fascinated by the wildlife and history of the islands. Prince William’s arrival in the islands at the start of February is not tourist-related; he will be spending six weeks on the islands as a RAF helicopter pilot – the first photographs of his tour of duty were released on 4^th February. William is the first royal to visit the islands since Princess Anne was in the area in 2007.

Full story: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/southamerica/falklandislands/9061803/Prince-William-arrives-in-the-Falkland-Islands.html

Sri Lankan ports will be visited by 20 luxury cruise liners in 2012, according to Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau. The country’s tourism officials are confident that the number of tourists visiting the paradise island will hit 950,000 by the end of the year.

Noble Caledonia is one of several luxury cruise ship companies which docks in Sri Lanka – organising an annual tour in March.

Full story: Sri Lanka Internet Newspaper

Having been crowned UK, European and world under-16 champion in 2011, you might imagine that solo dancer Ashlie Scarlett would have run out of ambitions. Yet she does still have one burning dream – to become a cruise ship dancer! Ashlie, 15, revealed her dream to the This is Staffordshire website.

Full story: This is Staffordshire

And finally; a travel expert has warned travellers to take bad reviews of a holiday destination with a pinch of salt. Sharron Livingston, the editor of thetravelmagazine.net, stressed that consumers need to factor in their own “tastes and needs” when researching travel reviews.

Full story: Cruises.co.uk

Life aboard the MS Island Sky

It seems that not everyone in Britain is excited about this summer’s Olympic Games.

New research published by the Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA) on 27th January 2012 found that 12 per cent of Brits intend to go abroad during the Games. And, according to the survey, when passport control asks these people the purpose of this visit they can state: “To avoid the Games.”

Remote and isolated holiday destinations could see an upturn in trade from 27th July to 2nd August – a further nine per cent are looking to go on holiday somewhere in the UK which is free from Olympic fever.

It is the generation which is old enough to have been alive when the Games were last staged in London (1948) which seems the least keen on staying in the country during the competition; 22 per cent of over-65s are making foreign travel plans.

However, many Brits are excited about the imminent arrival of athletes of the calibre of Usain Bolt as 2.5 million are planning to book time off work to attend events in or around the Games with five million organising annual leave so that they can watch the action on TV.

More information: Association of British Travel Agents

January 22^nd 2012. At sea to Valdivia

Around 0900h there was a call from the bridge that Blue Whales had been spotted. MS Island Sky immediately altered course to get some good views, because Blue Whales represent the largest animal which has ever existed on earth. We have to congratulate Captain Niklas Peterstam for his cooperation, because in the end we got quite close to them. They looked like a 30-m long submarine capped with a disproportionately small sickle-shaped fin. There were several whales in the area. They were probably feeding not far below the surface, since they blew frequently.

January 23^rd 2012-01-24 Isla Mocha

…Isla Mocha was our plan for today, a place that dosent gets to many visitors! The locals were there to welcome us and after a quick orientation we started to explore the island, with les than 600 people this place great to see the real life f the islanders and to enjoy the nature too.

After passing some small settlements we arrived to a beautiful forest known as “Reserva Nacional Isla Mocha”

After circumnavigating the Island this afternoon we put the zodiacs in the water and went for a cruise on the northern side to visit a colony of South American Sea Lions that were very playful and gave us great views. Isla Mocha National Reserve South American Sea Lions.

January 25 th 2012 Valparaiso, Chile

…..Main port for the Country of Chile Valparaiso is located next toViña del Marand La Reñaca – together with allot of history and beautiful beaches. Today we had the opportunity to learn more about this fascinating region.

A visit to the famous funicular station was included. We learned that they are national heritage!

In the afternoon after a delicious lunch in town by the sea we visited Casa del Bosque Vineyard in the interior, with beautiful scenery and excellent wine this was a great way to finish our day…….

January 26^th, Coquimbo and Iquique Valley, Chile 

After a scenic ride across the town of la Serena and Vicuña and some very dry valleys we arrive to the Capel Distillery for an interesting explanation about the process of making Pisco, here we learn the details of this delicious drink and about its origin and the historical dispute between Chileans and Peruvians on who invented the drink… during a tasting we get familiar with world famous “Pisco Sour” a must when you are in this part of the world.

January 27^th 2012, Pajaros and Chanaral Islands, Chile

…..A new destination for the Island Sky was ahead of us; .the Humboldt Penguin Reserve was waiting under a cloudy sky. With the zodiacs we went to explore this place to realise that the fauna here was spectacular.

First we visit a colony of Southern Sea Lions were we observe this great moment of nature, a female giving birth among many males. We continue searching and eventually we find the famous Humboldt Penguins with their young .They are the reason for the conservation of this area with about 20.000 individuals.

This is one of the main colonies and the most southern one……

31st January 2012, Lauca National Park, Chile

……At the bottom of the Andes we start our day just before dawn, we two buses we begin our journey across the Atacama desert, the driest place on earth, with amazing views we fallow the zic-zac road that connects Chile with Bolivia, here we can see how skill the drivers area as they maneuver big truck in steep waning roads. Our reward is awaiting above14.000 feetabove see level in the spectacular Lauca National Park, hi in the Andes Mountain Range this ecosystem is home to a very unique flora and fauna, we enjoy wonderful views on Vicuñas, Flamingos, Andean Coots and off course a breathtaking panorama…….

An early start from Heathrow flying to Iasi in Romania via Vienna. Upon arrival, we had a short transfer (about 20 minutes) to the Ramada Hotel in Iasi in time for lunch. After lunch our small group joined a walking tour in this quaint city and saw sights including the Palace of Culture, City Hall, St Nicolae Church (1492), the Roman Catholic Church, the Church of Three Hierarchs and the Metropolitan Cathedral of St Parascheva. We were lucky enough to experience a religious ceremony where people were queuing to be blessed by a priest, and touch the relics of Saint Parascheva, the patriarch of Moldavia and Bucovina. After some free time, and the chance to change up some pounds into Romanian Lev, we made our way on foot back to the hotel.

We took a short coach journey to “Bolta Rece” (meaning “refreshing grapes”) restaurant, a former Nobility house, for a traditional meal, including a unique sweet ravioli-like dessert, washed down with “Tuica” (strong Romanian fire water made from plums). We were entertained by a local 4 piece (fiddle, cello, accordion & a steel guitar) band. After a hearty meal it was time to return to our hotel for a good night’s sleep.

Day 2  Iasi to Radauti & Bucovina

After a buffet breakfast, we drove by coach to Romania’s first private musuem (Muzeu Popa), located in a small village, dedicated to the artistic work of Nicolae Popa. The museum included many stone and wood sculptures, costumes, photos, farm tools, vases, icons and paintings. We were then entertained by local children dressed in traditional clothing and masks. A few of our group dressed up in costumes over 100 years old and danced to the music, much to the delight of the rest of the group! We were provided with a home-made lunch, including home-made wine and “tuica” (the Romanian plum fire-water), which was delicious! We then had some free time to look around the local village. The life here is fascinating…… people travelling by horse and cart, water obtained from wells in gardens, animals (cows, horses, chickens, ducks and geese) and haystacks in the fields. Felt like I was in Amish country!

We then continued our journey by coach, during which we were informed by our guide that Prince Charles has a house and apple orchard nearby, from where the apple juice is imported to the UK for sale. His house can be rented if anyone is interested! We next stopped off at Suceava Fortress, dating back to the 14^th century, where we had some free time to explore. Back on the coach, and final drive to the Gerald’s Hotel where we would stay for the next 3 nights. This evening we enjoyed some wine tasting followed by a sumptuous buffet dinner, before another good night’s sleep.

Day 3 Radauti & Bucovina

After a buffet breakfast, we boarded our coach, and arrived at a surprise stop, the Roman Catholic Church of Cacica, opposite a working salt mine, over 200 years old. In the year 2000, the church was proclaimed a “basilica minor” by Pope John Paul the second. There is a statue of him in front of the church. We then continued our journey by coach through alpine forests.

We arrived at the first of our painted monasteries, Moldovita, where there is a nunnery, the fabulous painted church and a museum, with the backdrop of an alpine forest. The monastery was built in 1532, and painted in 1537. The colourful frescoes, dominantly red and green, are the same on the outside and inside of the church, and depict the story of the bible. We were then guided around the interior of the church and the museum by an entertaining nun called Tatiana.

We drove to a local restaurant for a local meal of chicken noodle soup, pork stew with polenta and cheese, followed by crème caramel, and some warming tea or coffee. There was a photo of Prince Charles with the staff inside the entrance.

After lunch we drove to Sucevita monastery, which was very impressive inside and out. The church was built in 1585, and the paintings date back to 1601.

On our way back to our hotel we stopped off at a black ceramic pottery workshop and shop, where several of our group brought souvenirs. This evening, before a buffet dinner, we were treated to a folklore performance of dancers and musicians. Some of our group chose to join in with the dancing. After a long but rewarding day it was time to hit the hay!

Day 4 Campulung-Moldovenesc & Cicocanesti

After breakfast some of the group enjoyed a short guided walking tour of nearby St Nicholas Church, just across the road from our hotel. Also known as Bogdana Church, it was the first stone church to be built in Moldavia, and dates back to 1359-1965. A service was taking place, which we were allowed to sit in on.

Boarded our coach and drove to Voronets Monastery, built in 1488 by Stephen the Great to commemorate victory at the Battle of Vaslui. The frescoes at Voronets feature an intense shade of blue known in Romania as “Voronets blue”. Afterwards, we had some free time to wander the market stalls selling waistcoats, shawls, antiques, among other things.

Next we drove to Campulung-Moldovenesc, where we visited the Wood museum. The different rooms exhibit baskets, hunting equipment, cips, crooks, ploughs, sledges and wheels etc.

Walked to a local restaurant where we had a delicious lunch followed by “papanash”, which is like a fluffy doughnut containing cheese and covered in sour cream. Mmmmm!

We then drove up through the mountains to an egg painting museum. Here we were giving a demonstration of egg painting by a girl, who also sang a traditional song for us. There were lots of different painted eggs on sale in the gift shop. Shortly before heading back to our hotel, our driver Nick surprised us with pickled chillies and gherkins, and Tuica, which we all enjoyed by the roadside. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed another delicious dinner.

Day 5 Radauti to Bucharest to Cernavoda

An early start! We were given a packed breakfast to enjoy on our journey to Suceava airport to catch our flight Bucharest. When we arrived at the airport we discovered that our flight had been cancelled and our plane had instead landed at Iasi airport. Nobody minded, as it meant we got to relax on the spacious coach and spend more time with our driver Nick, who was luckily driving home to Iasi.

From Iasi we flew to Bucharest. We then enjoyed a coach tour of Bucharest, seeing Victory Avenue, a former Gestapo headquarters, the Royal Palace and the Triumphal Arch. We also had the rare opportunity of visiting the Palace of the Parliament, including an inside visit. Construction of the people’s palace began in 1983, and even with 1100 rooms and being 12 stories tall, it’s still considered unfinished. It is the world’s largest administrative building, and the world’s second largest building after the Pentagon. We were inside for about an hour and a half and only saw about 5% of the building!

Next we drove to “Caru Cu Bere”, an open beer-hall type traditional restaurant, for a traditional hearty lunch and to sample some of their home-made beers.

We then re-board the coach to drive to our ship, the MS Johann Strauss, moored in Cernavoda.

Signed on the IS in Punta Arenas and spent the first night navigating the Strait of Magellan, heading for the Falkland Islands. The current was very strong, up to 10 knots and sometimes very challenging to navigate. Once outside on the Atlantic Coast you felt the heavy swell which is always there. Otherwise a very relaxing first day at sea.

First stop at Falkland was West Point and it was truly unbelievable. Went ashore and walked over to the albatross colony to shoot some photos. What struck me the most was how peaceful they all were and did not seem to mind all red/yellow/pink dressed people hiding in the back trying to get their best photo.

Second stop was Port Stanley. A port I always wanted to see after I read about the war back in 1982. I got the opportunity to join the tour for the battle fields and found it very interesting. Realised that I didn’t know much about the invasion and the heroic efforts of the British troops.

Did another short stop on the third day in Falklands  before it was time to set course for the Les Maire and the Cape Horn. Bad weather was forecasted after Les Maire but with some luck we would avoid the worst part. The trip south through the Les Maire went smooth but approx 10am wind and sea picked up, a bit earlier than predicted. We did our best for several hours to be on different courses with less impact for the guests and crew. At 1500 the wind and sea picked up further. The decision to cancel Cape Horn was not hard, when the pilot called and told me they were unable to reach the rendezvous point. As the Pilots were unable to board we were not allowed closer than 3nm of the Horn and would arrive during the dark hours of the night.

The Chilean Pilots boarded at Lennox Island early evening and took us to Port Williams for a nice quiet overnight alongside. All guests were e

ager to touch ground that evening in the most southern town in South America.
Early next morning we started our cruises in the Chilean Fjords with two Chilean Pilots onboard for 1 week. I have cruised Norway, New Zealand and Alaska but must say that Patagonia really impressed me. The numbers of glaciers and the fact that we are more or less alone in the fjords and the arms leading up to the glaciers made it very special.

During the following week there was a lot of excitement from calving glaciers to narrows such as the famous Kirke sound. 8 zodiacs were being launched in the water a few times every day to take the guests on unforgettable zodiac cruises with their skilled Expedition Staff. Even my Chief Officer Lars helped out with the driving of the zodiacs as he found it so interesting.

In Puerto Montt it was time to change guests. As many as 20 back to back guests stayed on for the next cruise. The first morning outside Chiloe couldn’t have had a better start as we spotted a few blue whales close to the ship. As time allowed we stopped for 45 min and watched those enormous creatures. With a blow up to 15 feet and a length of over 100 feet it’s almost unreal to see in reality.

In general there has been a lot of wildlife since we left Puerto Montt. Yesterday was another highlight with zodiac cruising around Isla Pajaros and Isla Chanaral with tons of birds, seals and penguins. The highlight again was blue whales which were spotted from the zodiacs, which of course is a very rare occasion.

Now I have to write my handover notes as I am signing off in Lima in a few days. Captain Henrik Karlsson will take over the blog as I will go home for a while before taking on the new Caledonian Sky. Captain Karlsson has several years as Captain onboard the Sea Cloud I and II and will be the new Captain onboard the “little Island Sky”

Friday, 13^th January 2012 16.00 hrs

Ship’s position: 55* 21.330 S

Weather: Deep low pressure Central South West of Cape Horn.

It is almost a week since we flew from London Heathrow and landed like a wobbly Albatross in Madrid and then on to Santiago. Two days to relax and savour the sun shine, mild temperature and the buzz of Santiago. Excitement mounted on our departure to the airport for the flight to Southern Chile – Punta Arenas and soon to be on board the MS Island Sky berthed near the centre of the town.

7 lost suitcases en route due to the airlines, a selection of clothes left behind at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Santiago and a mobile sitting somewhere abandoned! But all sorted and we set sail for the West Point Island (Falkland Islands), a distance of 415 nautical miles. As we departed our Captain, Niklas Peterstam, carefully navigated through the Magellan Straits – the start of our adventure – the MS Island Sky’s first visit to South America.  A day at sea, so time to get those sea legs and prepare for a busy schedule. Jane Wilson, our experienced Expedition Leader was hectic rushing up and down from the bridge checking the ship’s progress, weather and future plans whilst Hannah Lawson a member of the Expedition Team gave a delightful talk ‘Johnny Rooks and Mollymawks’.

West Point Island on what was now Tuesday, 10^th January. A first experience for many of our passengers on zodiacs as we set forth from the ship to a slipway on the eastern shore of the island. South American Sea Lions sighted looking like tame kittens on the rocks, lots of kelp for the zodiac outboards to cope with and a mass of sea birds to the delight of many. Stuart Burmeister and Guy Esparon, members of the Expedition Team spotted a black-crowned Night Heron (a rare sighting) catching little fish.

No rest for the wicked as a breezy walk of about 2 miles to Devil’s Nose to see a magnificent sight of literally thousands of Rockhopper Penguins and Black-browed Albatross.

Camera and binoculars everywhere and for even the less keen walkers, lifts provided in land rovers driven by Mike and Jeanette Clark, the daughter and son in law of the island owners. A rejuvenating lunch on board for everyone, whilst the Captain re positioned the ship with four zodiacs whizzing along side like escorts, to a sheltered mooring at Dyke Bay, Carcass Island. The island takes its name from HMS Carcass, which visited in the late 18^thcentury and the presence of a tussock plantation and historical absence of cats, rats and mice has resulted in large populations of small birds on the island. A first ‘wet landing’ on the zodiacs and excitement galore on sightings of Peale’s and Commerson’s dolphins escorting some of the zodiacs. A less strenuous walk than the morning to spend time amongst the Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins.

Refreshed!

Rob and Lorraine McGill, owners of the island, served the most scrumptious massive afternoon tea at the settlement, which many tucked in to with gusto! How welcomed they made us all feel. A happy and fascinating day ashore on islands that seem so far away from civilization. The sense of peace and tranquillity could not escape one.And so we headed of to Port Stanley –stirring memories of the Falklands War in 1982. A day of seeing all the key points of the war – a moving visit to the Welsh Guards and Royal Fleet Auxiliary Memorials overlooking Ajax Bay, where HMS Fearless, HMS Sir Galahad and HMS Sir Lancelot were hit by Argentinean aircrafts.

Michael Nicholson (formally senior foreign correspondence ITN) who is on board as a guest lecturer, enthralled us with the account how he and Brian Hanrahan (BBC) were close by having lunch in a hut when 4 A-4C sky hawks – the Argentineans aircrafts flew over and hit the three Naval ships and how they reported the incident to the outside world.

Our final destination in the Falkland Islands the following morning was to New Island richly associated with sealing and whaling. We landed the zodiacs at Settlement Harbour next to the beached Canadian Navy minesweeper Protector, brought south in the 1900”s during a failed sealing enterprise attempt.  Charming little museum and Guy stripped off and could be seen in a large old brass bath enjoying a non-wash! Again many Rockhoppers and Magellanic Penguins, Imperial Cormorants and Black-browed Albatross entertained us at a colony – a gentle walk from the beach.

And so we left the Falkland Islands bathed in sunshine and what a memorable visit it was. Michael Nicholson jotted down a quote he saw, at what was the field hospital, during the Falklands War ‘Where Nature is in Charge’. That says it all.

As I write this we are heading towards the Beagle Channel – Captain Niklas, based on the advice of the Chilean pilots, sadly decided due to weather conditions and high seas not to sail pass Cape Horn. We are scheduled to pick up our Chilean pilots at 16.30 hrs at Lennox Island before making our way to Puerto Williams for custom clearance and then we set sail through the Beagle Channel and the beauty of the Patagonian Fiords.

Sunday, 15^th January 2012  22.00 hrs: 

Ship’s position: 53* 01 991S

GPS:     073* 39 032.W

Island Sky speed: 12.4 knots

Weather: Cloudy and light showers

And so on Friday, 13^th January a deep low pressure: Central South West of Cape Horn with conditions up to 30/40-foot waves and 80-knot winds. Luckily, we were on the outskirts of this low pressure, but on the advice of the Chilean Pilots via radio (who we then picked up off Picton Island) our Captain changed course and headed for Puerto Williams, which meant we were unable to sail to the fabled Cape Horn. During dinner that evening, we berthed at Puerto Williams for custom clearance as we were now in Chilean waters. This gave everyone a chance to stretch their legs and visit the newly remodelled and fascinating Museum Martin Gusinde, which stayed open for us – a kindness at 21.00 hrs!

Puerto Williams

In the early hours of the morning, the Island Sky weighed anchor at Puerto Williams and we cruised along the Beagle Channel, named by Pringle Stokes, Captain of the HMS Beagle during the first hydrgraphic survey of the region by the British Admiralty from 1826 – 1830. We continued cruising the Northern arm of the channel and turned into Garibaldi Fjord.

Dennis Wille, our Costa Rican lecturer on board, wrote in his journal

‘Upon arrival into Garibaldi Fiord one can already see that this scenery cannot be forgotten. As we come near with our vessel the zodiacs were placed in the water and out we went for our first Fjord zodiac cruising.

With spectacular scenery we started going away to visit a colony of South American Sea Lions which were resting ashore in a small flat area with their pups, as our driver Chantal is approaching slowly to photograph them we are immediately shocked by this large birds on the ground, to our great surprise they were Andean Condors, one the largest flying birds on earth, it was a feeding group of about seven including adults and juveniles.  And to make it even better Turkey Vultures and White-throated Caracaras were with them as well, a very special sighting, Condor being the national bird of Chile but unfortunately a species that is in danger of extinction.

To then finalize our trip with spectacular views of Garibaldi Fiord one of the largest and oldest around here! Grand Finale and a zodiac full of happy people!!!’

Agostini Fjord

All back aboard we continued cruising through the myriad of small islands of Tierra del Fuego leaving the Beagle Channel and entering Canal Ballenero and then Canal Cockburn – out in to the Pacific Ocean and then making our way into the Agostini Fjord surrounded by peaks of the Southern Andes. Due to 40 knot winds during the night out at sea, our Captain was anxious not to miss the deadline for the Kirkes Narrows on Monday morning, so Jane Wilson (Expedition Leader) rallied us all at 07.00 hrs for zodiac cruising in Agostini Fjord embarking at 08.00 hrs  – rather earlier than planned. Despite some late night jollities and singing in The Club most passengers were raring to go, and again the 8 zodiacs set off to look at the splendid and awesome glaciers, but sadly no sightings of the South America Sea Lions or indeed the Andean Condors. How lucky we had been the day before. But amazing scenery, sea birds and rainbows. Peace on a Sunday- apart from the occasional thundering of ice breaking away from the base of the glaciers! John Harwood – an Expedition Team member must have sneaked on shore from his zodiac, as he returned to the ship with cuttings from various species of flora and fauna for the re cap!

Lunch aboard and we set sail for Puerto Natales – and an afternoon of Spanish lessons, a enthralling talk given by Michael Nicholson entitled ‘Back to Front – the Dark Side of War Reporting’ and Alex Edwards, another of our lecturers, talking about ‘The People from the Land of Fire and Southern Patagonia’ From the ship spectacular views of snow capped mountains and a sighting of a Humpback Whale. Our adventure continues.

16^th- 19th- January 2012 

Ship’s position: 45* 44.222. S

GPS:    073* 55.024W

Weather: Drizzle and cloudy

Early morning wake up call to be out on deck to watch as we navigated through the Kirke Narrows at slack water and faithful Hannah was on Deck 4 to look out for wild life and, of course, her camera at the ready! We approached Puerto Natales, blue skies and bright sunshine at 09.00 hrs and off we set in 3 coaches on our full day tour to see the wonders of Torres del Paine National Park and the mountainous group of Paine. Chris Cutler, part of the Expedition Team, arrived from a long bus ride from Punta Arenas – a few days late, but we forgave him as he popped straight on to one of the coaches and kept everyone up to speed bird watching!

John Harwood wrote in the log:

“At about 0930h M/V Island Sky arrived in front of Puerto Natales with a cloudless blue sky and no wind. The ship went alongside and local officials dealt quickly with formalities. This meant that we started our full day tour of the Torres del Paine National Park as planned at 1000h.

We boarded 3 modern, air-conditioned coaches and headed north through pre-cordillera prairies and shrub land to visit the park, which is a United Nations World Heritage Site. We entered the park through the southernmost gateway, Serrano, and exited via the western gateway, Laguna Amarga. The park lies over 100km from Puerto Natales, so there was plenty to appreciate on the way. For the birders, Buff-Necked Ibis, Condor, Black-Necked Swan and many others were highlights. For plant lovers, wild Fuchsias, Gavilea lutea orchids, blue Perezias, and many daisy-like and dandelion-like composites enriched the background of grasses and Southern Beeches. The most common tree was Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio).

We had lunch in the beautiful Hotel Rio Serrano, just outside the park. The hotel had a wonderful view of the Paine Towers. Then we entered the park to visit the lake formed by Grey Glacier. The beautiful lake was full of spectacular icebergs and surrounded by mature Lenga forest.  Everywhere we went in the park, the view was dominated by the impressive jagged skyline of the peaks of the “Torres del Paine”. Surprisingly, most of the peaks are less than 3000m high, but they appear huge since they are awesomely steep and rise from near sea level. In the wonderful sunlight we could easily distinguish the massif’s lighter-coloured granitic base, capped by a darker sedimentary layer. Bright lenticular clouds hovering high above the summits added to the spectacle.

We returned from the park by a route different from our arrival. On our way back we saw plenty of wildlife. Guanacos were the most numerous mammals observed. We also saw foxes and a hare. Large ostrich-like birds (Darwin’s Rhea) attracted our attention, as did the Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle and others.

There was a brief stop for souvenir shopping at a hamlet called Cerro Castillo.  Among the varied goods on sale were modern woolen products from sheep-farmers, reed baskets woven by descendants of the original Indian population and good reference books. We got back to the ship a little later than planned, and found that M/V Island Sky was no longer alongside due to the arrival of an important cargo vessel. However, zodiacs quickly ferried us aboard and we soon settled down to dinner after our impressive day trip”.

Lenticular cloud (flying saucer) over the mountains of Paine

A pretty perfect day – with a minor set back when one of the coaches on the way back, within 25 kms of Puerto Natales, had hydraulics failure. The quick action of one of the guides ensured a passing local bus picked up the group and a fun drive was had to the wooden landing jetty in Puerto Natales and the short zodiac run to the ship. A delicious dinner awaited for the weary travellers! Yet a further treat in store as Stuart rushed outside during dinner to see this amazing lenticular cloud.

Early Tuesday morning the Island Sky was in position to navigate back out through the narrows at slack waters and we sailed north along the Collingwood and Sarmiento Channels. Not a minutes rest on board! Luis and Michael, our Executive Chefs, and Hotel Manager Anthony were in the driving seat answering questions such as ‘how many eggs will be consumed on the cruise’… and giving an insight in to how the Hotel Department operate. John Harwood gave a fascinating talk on the nature and the development of Southern Chile.

As evening approached, the weather was misty and drizzle, but this did not deter anyone from coming on a wonderful early evening zodiac cruise to a tidewater glacier in Skua Fjord. Even a landing on a rocky beach. The quiet airy light, enormous ice field and the team of zodiacs gently purring in and out and over brash ice and skirting around icebergs was amazing – and made even more special by quite a few Peale Dolphins leading or chasing the zodiacs.

Tuesday rolled in to Wednesday and a landing by zodiac on a wooden jetty at Puerto Eden – a charming little fishing village. Guy summed up the visit:

“The Island Sky arrived at Puerto Eden at 08h00 and dropped anchor approximately 800metres from the shore.

The weather was dull and grey with a very light rain.

Port Eden, on Wellington Island, is a small fishing village with a population of around 250. The island is based on an old settlement of the Akalufe Indians (Canoe people). There are only five of the original Akalufe people left on the Island.

There are also many Mapuche Indians from Chiloe.

The Island has a claim to fame of being the first island to give the first results of elections.

All the rustic, timber and iron houses are linked by a common wooden boardwalk around the bay. A modern slipway and terminal is the gateway for the inhabitants and visitors to this quaint little fishing village.

Alongside the boardwalk there are numerous wooden signs indicating what type of plants you are looking at as you meander around.

The government has invested $4million dollars into the local infrastructure to improve the fishing industry and tourism”.

Back on board for lunch and the MS Island Sky was on the move again with our skillful Captain and Pilots negotiating the ship around two 90* turns in the narrow channel. The afternoon an introduction to our new ship – MS Caledonian Sky followed by Chris giving a talk ‘Splendid Isolation: Faunal History of South America’. Recap and briefing was a mixture of topics – one of our Pilots with Alex translating questions and answers! Guy on ‘Piracy in the Indian Ocean’ and how it has affected his beloved homeland. John with a big black opened umbrella to describe the skies when lit up with stars and Stuart explaining lenticular clouds. So much fun and so much knowledge flows!

Thursday 19th – Friday 20th January 2012    

Ship’s position:  42* 25. 494. S

GPS: 072* 59. 577. W

Weather: Blue skies and calm seas

The joys of expeditioning cruising! The Daily Programme on board said a ‘day cruising north through the last of the Chilean Fjords – the Pelluche Channel and into the Moreleda Channel’ as we headed to Chiloe. Because of calm seas during the night, the ship made good progress so we had a little time to spare. Hurrah – an expeditioning stop during the morning, and we all again piled in to the zodiacs to explore the shores of Lilian Island in the Canal Errazuris.

This is the first time any ship has been allowed to anchor in the channel and disembark passengers to cruise in zodiacs near this small enchanting island. Our exact position was 45*38.5”S: 73*51.2”W. So a first!!

It was the most beautiful morning – bright blue skies, warm and crystal clear water. Zodiacs went off in different directions – some to see the nearest rock called Roca Gloria, a perch for lots of Cormorants and Dolphin Gulls. The shores of Lilian Island rich in flora and fauna and a ringed Kingfisher remained perched on a branch for many of us to see.  Flightless Duck scurried away across the water, Rock Cormorants were seen and the elegant Wimbrels.

All too soon, it was time to return to the ship and the zodiacs were taken ‘up the hook’ back on board for the last time on this cruise.  It was a particularly special morning – a gentle zodiac amble in glorious weather, calm blue waters and the Chilean mountains away in the distance. A barbeque on the Lido Deck and more of the delicious lamb, which had been bought from Rob McGill on Carcass Island in the Falklands. Another very good reason for the Falkland Islands to retain their British Sovereignty!

Delicious! Passengers enjoying onboard BBQ

The Island Sky continued to sail north entering into the Corcovado Gulf later in the evening.  An afternoon of talks given by our lecturers ending with Michael Nicholson talking about the more amusing side of his work. To end a busy day, Captain Niklas’s Farewell Cocktail Party and Dinner and the crew singing ‘You Will Never Walk Alone’. I was glad to see that I was not the only one with tears streaming down the cheeks!

Friday was our last day on board the Island Sky and she berthed along side at Castro, Chiloe Island.  ‘This Island is about ninety miles long with a breath of rather less than thirty. The land is hilly, but not mountainous, and is covered by one great forest, except where a few green patches have been cleared round the thatched cottages. From a distance the view somewhat resembles that of Tierra del Fuego: but the woods when seen nearer, are incomparably more beautiful’ so wrote Charles Darwin.

A full day tour on the island and a good leg stretch! Colin Baird – member of the Expedition Team wrote in his diary:

‘Just after breakfast we departed the Island Sky, which was alongside the pier in the small city of Castro on Chiloe Island. We boarded our awaiting coaches for a tour of this quaint city with its brightly painted, wooden clad buildings and churches. There were several photo stops to view the stilted houses, which wrapped around some of the tidal bays. We were led to the main square to visit the Church of San Francisco of Castro; a magnificent wooden structure and world heritage site. It has twice been restored when damaged by earthquake and fire. Before lunch we had some free time to explore the local market with many craft stalls and a small fish market. A beautiful fish lunch was enjoyed in one of the local hotels before we set off towards the village of Chonchi that has also been declared a World Heritage Site including a small church that Charles Darwin had visited. We returned to the ship in the late afternoon, as we steamed away from Chiloe Island in brilliant sunshine’.

Back on board and the dreaded packing for an early morning disembarkation for the long drive to Baraloche. But a most befitting sunset and the day ended with a slide show of the cruise assembled by Dennis – happy memories. As I end this Travel Post blog: January 2012. Patagonia – Land of Fire and Ice I can hear great merriment in The Club and no thoughts of early to bed!  It has, for the Expedition Team led by Jane Wilson, been a great privilege to serve under Captain Niklas Peterstam, his Officers and Crew. And our two wise Chilean Pilots navigated with great skill, but it was the passengers who have made the trip for us and this cruise will always count as one of the ‘greats’ aboard our beloved MS Island Sky.

*Photographic contributions also from Hannah, Stuart, Guy and Colin. 

Day 2 -Tresco, Isles of Scilly   -  Saturday 28 May 2011

As soon as we were safely at anchor between Tresco and St Mary’s, some if us took the opportunity to go ashore by zodiac, to make the most of the time available to explore Tresco. For the rest, a lovely lunch was followed by a zodiac transfer to the Carn Near slipway near the gardens. For those of us who didn’t fancy the walk across the common and heathland, then across the helicopter landing site to the garden entrance, there was transport laid on by the garden staff.

The gardens had the most amazing, albeit bizarre, mixture of temperate and subtropical plants, including Echium, massive clumps of daisies, banks of Proteas and huge subtropical Banksia trees.

Some of us enjoyed a cuppa or a coffee at the café (while being entertained by amazing tame song thrushes, blackbirds, chaffinches and other birds) before setting off to walk back to the slipway. Tony led a nature walk after we had visited the gardens and this passed a couple of large ponds where there were wildfowl. All our walks today were beautiful – taking us through the forests or out into the open across dune vegetation, or along the beaches, what a great day to be here.

DAY 7 - Canna, Rum: The Small Isles, Scotland -                         Thursday 2 June 2011

After a quiet night at anchor at Tobermory, we sailed at daybreak and woke to view the gentle outline of the Isle of Canna, one of the Small Isles group  The island is made of successive basalt lava flows – that is what creates the terraced topography. It is believed that the lava flows originated from a large volcano on Skye that erupted approximately 60 million years ago as theNorth Atlantic Ocean was forming. The Zodiac ride was calm and short, and we were joined ashore by two knowledgeable local guides, long-term island residents, who took us for a stroll around the settlement and Canna House garden. Near the pier we passed a quaint church made from large sandstone and granite blocks with a round tower based on the ancient Irish style which overlooked the bay. An impressive Celtic Cross survived on the site of the old village and burial ground. The light rain did not dampen our enthusiasm for the island!

Kinloch Castle, set in lovely mature policy woodland, was built in red sandstone all the way from the Isle of Arran, and was completed in 1900. The soil used to make the gardens was brought in from Aryshire. The castle has been preserved in its original style – displaying the decadence of the Edwardian lifestyle that existed before the war in 1914. As we wandered through the rooms, we were overwhelmed by the assortment of bizarre knickknacks, stuffed animals and technical gizmos collected by Sir George Bullough. For the entire afternoon, summer had arrived in the Inner Hebrides.

Day 8  - St. Kilda, Scotland  -  Friday 3 June 2011

In the early morning we arrived off St. Kilda, which loomed at the last minute out of the mist, before heading intoVillageBayon theislandofHirta. We were very lucky – although it was misty the seas were calm, and the Captain manoeuvred the ship right in close to the settlement. The view spread out in front of us was spectacular, with sea cliffs along the coast, steep hills in front, scattered ruins of the original village of the settlers and little dark brown Soay sheep that are unique to this area.

The island supported a permanent population until 1930 when they requested to be evacuated from the island. The island is now under the care of the National Trust for Scotland, and has dual status as both a Natural and Cultural World Heritage Site, one of only 25 amongst 800 in the world!

After lunch the mist lifted obligingly. We were offered an hour-long zodiac cruise along the dark gabbro (volcanic rock) cliffs of Dun, looking through the natural arches to have a taste of the swell on the west side of the island. As the breeding season is in full swing, there were fulmars, kittiwakes, some shags, and huge numbers of puffins. Several grey seals kept poking their heads up to watch us drift by.

Day 9 Tanera Mor (Summer Isles), Inverewe - Saturday 4 June 2011

Overnight we had sailed back from St Kilda and round the northern end of the island of Lewis. Early morning saw us steaming across a calm se and into position off the island of Tanera Mor, the only inhabited island of the Summer Isles. After breakfast we disembarked and took the short zodiac ride across to the jetty.

A short walk took us to the local tea room which doubles as a post office for the locally-produced stamps, which proved a big hit. The more energetic climbed up the roadway and across the heather-covered peat to the top of the island, for breathtaking views across the summer Isles, the adjacent mainland, and, clearly visible in the distance, the Outer Hebrides.

We headed north, and had a wonderful barbecue lunch on the Lido deck as we sailed  into Loch Ewe and anchored in the channel near the jetty at Inverewe Gardens. This was another sheltered spot and we arrived at the garden’s jetty via zodiac, then met informative local guides for a walk through the gardens. What a magnificent place! We wandered through the narrow wooded pathways, enjoying the plants and trees, including the last of the rhododendrons, culminating in a novel walled garden.

There was so much to see and some of us came away with some new ideas to try in our own gardens. We stopped at several lovely lookouts to take in the views of the surrounding hillsides and mountains.

Day 11 -Stromness, Orkney Islands, Scotland -  Monday 6 June 2011

We departed on a half-day Heritage Tour that took us, and the order varied depending upon which coach we were in, to St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall, then to the ruined Stone Age village of Skara Brae (5000 years old), and finally to the Ring of Brodgar and past the standing stones of Stenness.  In Kirkwall, we visited the magnificent St Magnus Cathedral. This is one of Scotland’s most beautiful medieval cathedrals! It is carved out of old red sandstone and although it is hundreds of years old has withstood the test of time and the elements. The inside of the cathedral is even more spectacular than the outside, with stained glass windows set into the tall arched ceiling that allows light in and gives the interior a warm red glow.

The Orkney Islandshave a rich history – they were originally settled in about 4000 BC, and fortunately for us, many of the Stone Age settlements have been well preserved. Skara Brae is one of the finest examples of a Neolithic village settlement anywhere. It has been built into some ancient coastal dunes. As we walked around the ruins we had a glimpse back in time to what it must have been like to live and survive in such a place. The entrances were very small, and the ceiling very low. Life would have been very tough in those days! But what a view!

Taj Mahal

News that the Taj Mahal is in danger of collapsing ‘within five years’ provides a good reason for visiting this monument-to-love as soon as you can. Learning the inspiring story of why this wonder of the world was built provides another…

It is sad to hear news that the Taj Mahal, India’s most historic building, is in danger of collapsing.

It is feared that the wooden foundations of the marble tomb may be rotting due to lack of water.

Ramshankar Katheria, the MP for Agra, the city which is home to the beautiful mausoleum, said: “If the crisis is not tackled on a war-footing, the Taj Mahal will cave in between two and five years.”

Hope exists that the Taj Mahal will survive – since construction on the building finished 358 years ago it has survived the threat of air attacks from the Luftwaffe and the Japanese Army and the attempted discrediting of the man whose heartbroken obsession was responsible for building it.

Erected as a monument to love, this monument is loved enough to give hope that it will endure a little while longer at least.

The King who had the vision to commission such a stunning piece of architecture was well-aware that nothing lasts forever; the loss of the love of his life was the reason that Shah Jahan ordered the Taj Mahal to be built…

Shah Jahan (the name means King of the World) was born in 1592 AD, and was a direct descendant of Genghis Khan. When aged 14 he went shopping in a bazaar and caught sight of an older girl selling silk and glass beads.

The girl was Mrjumand Banu Begum, though she became more commonly known as Mumtaz Mahal (meaning jewel in the crown); the name Shah Jahan bestowed on her after she married him five years after their fateful encounter.

The Muslim princess became a queen after Shah Jahan ascended to the throne in 1627. She was in fact Shah Jahan’s third wife but was by far his favourite; a position she achieved as a result of a lack of ambition which contrasted favourably with the barely-concealed scheming displayed by other female members of the royal court.

According to the official court chronicler Qazwini, the relationship with his other wives “had nothing more than the status of marriage”.

Quazwini added: “The intimacy, deep affection, attention and favour which His Majesty had for the Cradle of Excellence [Mumtaz Mahal] exceeded by a thousand times what he felt for any other.”

Proof of this could be found by the fact that Mumtaz Mahal accompanied Shah Jahan on the frequent military campaigns which consolidated his power – the title ‘King of the World’ was one her husband took extremely seriously.

Mumtaz Mahal was to die as she supported her husband on one of these campaigns – killed not in battle but because of complications suffered while giving birth to their 14^th child in 1631. She breathed her last to the sound of her distraught husband vowing that he would never remarry and would rebuild the richest mausoleum over her grave.

The promise seemed an idle one as Shah Jahan entered an aimless two-year period of mourning. But when work began on the Taj Mahal it did so at a furious pace.

Shah Jahan closely supervised the building; sometimes aggressively berating the workers tasked with undertaking his elaborate plans, sometimes gently encouraging greater efforts. Shah Jahan’s labour of love took 22,000 workers, 22 years to complete.

It truly did resemble a palace fit for a king – but by 1657, four years after the project had ended, Shah Jahan was a king no more. This was because his third eldest son had taken advantage of a brief illness to wrest power from him.

Shah Jahan’s other sons tried to block the coup – but only so that they could seize the throne for themselves. They failed and Aurangzeb, the new king, imprisoned Shah Jahan in Agra Fort.

Today you can visit the fort and stand at the window which for the last ten years of Shah Jahan’s life provided the deposed king with a view of the city he once ruled.

There, just underneath the window, you can see the holy river which Shah Jahan must sadly have gazed upon. And there, following the line of the river, you can still see – for now at least – the beautiful monument to love which the lovelorn captive had built during his time as a free man.

Sources: http://www.tajmahal.org.uk/story.html

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-2045613/Taj-Mahal-collapse-years.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj_Mahal

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shah_Jahan

MS Island Sky

The Island Sky navigating smoothly into harbour is not, it is fair to say, a toweringly majestic sight. The cruise vessel, which takes a maximum of just 114 passengers, certainly looks spick and span, but its dimensions at 295ft by 49ft would be dwarfed by the latest mega-liners that ply the world’s oceans. Aboard, however, the wow factors reveal themselves.

MS Island Sky Columbus Deck

Starting with the 57 suites (“cabin” hardly denotes the comfort and luxury of this shipboard accommodation): the lowest of the five decks, Magellan, has the largest suites, with portholes rather than windows. Above this deck is Columbus, close to the lounge and reception area, above that Marco Polo, handy for the library. Erikson and Explorer — the penthouse of the vessel, if you like — both have private balconies. A lift takes passengers to all decks. The suites themselves are fitted out with wood panelling and brass, and each has an ensuite bathroom with marble-topped sink units and walk-in shower. The wardrobes offer plenty of storage. There is also a minibar, flatscreen television with DVD player and a telephone in each suite. Fluffy bathrobes and slippers add to the luxury-hotel feel.

It’s a cosseting haven to retire to, but some top-deck Island Sky passengers report having little time to spend lounging on their private balconies. Every Island Sky voyage is a trip packed with experiences, with a carefully planned programme of shore visits. And here’s where the advantage of being on a small ship really hits home: it takes hours to disembark a massive cruise liner’s passengers — and to get them back on again. The Island Sky’s guests will find the transit to shore rapid and efficient. And what different, wilder shores they will experience — places the giants cannot squeeze into. From tiny harbours to rugged shorelines inhabited only by populations of seabirds and wild creatures, the Island Sky — owned by specialist cruise operator Noble Caledonia — has access to them all.

Zodiac exploring in the Channel Islands

Sometimes the ship drops anchor and out come the Zodiacs, large and sturdy inflatable outboard dinghies. Climb in for a snorkelling trip, a beach landing or some bird-watching. And if you want to know exactly what you are pointing your camera or binoculars at, the on-board guest lecturers have all the information you’ll need. On a recent Mediterranean cruise, they were Professor John Ray, a mine of information on the lasting legacy of the Roman empire; Major-General Arthur Denaro, an extra equerry to HRH the Prince of Wales, who added not just information but poignancy and atmosphere to war sites; and host of Radio 4’s Just a Minute, Nicholas Parsons, who was just very entertaining. Broadcaster and journalist Matthew Parris will be joining Passage to Tristan da Cunha and Beyond on December 22, 2012.

Mental sustenance is all very well, and the on-board library is a haven of well-chosen volumes, plus whatever newspapers the staff have found in port. But what about the food? “Think fresh and local” could be the motto of hotel manager Wendy Gouws, a no-nonsense South African who dispatches the provisions master almost daily to supplement stores by buying fish, fruit and vegetables at the Island Sky’s ports of call. These are transformed by the kitchen brigade into buffet-style breakfast and lunch — eaten whenever possible on the outdoor deck — and à la carte dinner in the dining room. A typical Mediterranean menu might include strawberry soup or calamari, followed by baked lobster tail with garlic and lemon butter sauce served with saffron rice, or roast honey-glazed duck in Grand Marnier sauce. Glasses of red and chilled white wine are served with lunch and dinner; beer is also offered. While some ships allocate seats during mealtimes, passengers aboard the Island Sky are free to choose where to sit for each meal. Round-the-clock tea and coffee are available, and early morning pre-breakfast pastries.

MS Island Sky Restaurant

All these creature comforts, which include a hairdressing and beauty salon, are administered by a highly trained crew. There are 75 staff and crew members on the Island Sky, and the captain and first officer are both Scandinavian. The self-assured Swedish captain, Torbjorn Svensson, runs a relaxed but efficient ship. Thanks to his open-bridge policy, the passengers — or guests, as he prefers to call them — can stop by at any time to watch him manoeuvre the ship into a tight space.

MS Island Sky Staff

The service starts well before you board. A tour manager joins the passengers at the airport at the start of the trip, travelling with them from London. She ensures the tour guides and bus drivers know where and when to meet the passengers. There is also an on-board doctor, who is available 24/7. Generally, all the senior staff work two and a half months on and off. The rest of the mainly Filipino and east European crew work on seven- or eight-month contracts. It’s not unusual to find that while the “welcome on board” cocktails are being served, staff and crew are shaking hands with regular Island Sky cruisers, welcoming them back to the ship. They extend a similar welcome to newcomers, and it’s impressive how quickly they learn their names too. However, unlike many other cruise ships, a “no tips” policy operates on the Island Sky. All gratuities have been included in the price of the trip. The assistant cruise director is on hand to tip all the tour guides and drivers along the way, and passengers no longer have to worry about carrying loose change in various currencies. The policy was introduced last year following feedback from Noble Caledonia’s passengers. So while prices are hardly bargain basement, they do include almost every expenditure except bar bill and souvenir shopping.

The Island Sky format has proved so popular that Noble Caledonia has acquired a second cruise ship to operate as an owner. Purchased in 2011, the newly christened Caledonian Sky (formerly Hebridean Spirit) will be refurbished in Gothenburg over the coming winter. She will be ready for her maiden voyage under new ownership in May of next year, sailing around Britain before heading to Australasia. Although slightly different in configuration from the Island Sky, she will be kitted out similarly to her sister ship and will also have a capacity of 114 passengers.

Words by Karen Robinson and Audrey Ward

Galapagos Tortoise & photographer

As dusk fell, I captured my most spectacular photograph on a voyage packed with extraordinary moments. Seeing a patch of swirling foam in the distance, our sharp-eyed boatman turned our dinghy and sped towards it. Suddenly we were surrounded by a school of frolicking dolphins, each, it seemed, determined to out-backflip the others. For five frantic minutes, there was a frenzy of whirring camera shutters, a ferment of flippers, tails, snouts and splashes. Click! I got it, the star of my album — a leaping dolphin bathed in the glow of the setting sun, with our gleaming ship in the background.

Another day of breathtaking sights in the Galapagos Islands was drawing to a close.

The 18 main islands and 110 or so islets and rocks are scattered across the equator, 600 miles due west of Ecuador — a chain of volcanic humps in the Pacific almost certainly never connected to any mainland, but risen from the sea. The wildlife has developed distinctly from all other species on earth and each island has something different. The best way to see many of them is on a cruise, waking to a new adventure each day.

Male Frigate bird - Galapagos

About 170,000 visitors land every year but the national park that comprises 90% of the area is so well regulated, and our cruise was so well organised, that we rarely met another vessel. Every evening we would have a briefing by our on-board naturalists on what the next day would bring, and on expeditions ashore we would be divided into small groups.

It was in 1835 that the young Charles Darwin arrived aboard the Beagle to collect samples and make the detailed notes that led him to his theory of evolution. He wrote in his journal that the birds “approached so close that any number might be killed with a stick”.

To my amazement, I found that nothing had changed. The wildlife has no fear of tourists wielding cameras and camcorders. Sea lion pups would flop towards us; you could go right up to a blue-footed booby and shout “Boo!” in its ear and it wouldn’t even flinch. Wherever we went ashore, marine iguanas merged into the black lava rocks, perfectly camouflaged. These prehistoric, creepy creatures would crawl over anything in their paths — sleeping sea lions, each other, even our feet!

Snorkelling in search of hammerhead sharks, I felt quite glad not to find any, as a close encounter with a curious young sea lion was heart-stopping enough. While he swam rings round me, a huge turtle glided by and a diamond formation of golden rays scooted past.

Blue-footed Booby & egg - Galapagos

On Española island, we walked among waved albatross, 100 of them on land for the breeding season after months and years at sea. On Santa Cruz, giant tortoises sat on the paths, chomping leaves as we stepped around them. Only the flamingos and flame-coloured Sally Lightfoot crabs on white beaches fled from us.

In one fascinating trip, I had got up close to a unique range of wildlife, and have an awful lot of photographs to prove it.

Words by Caroline Hendrie

Island Sky going through Corinth Canal

Three-thirty on a blistering hot Friday afternoon and a swarthy man with thick, rippled hair has just boarded the Island Sky cruise ship and is making demands of our captain. He’s not a pirate, rather a Greek pilot in tight-fitting navy trousers and powder-blue shirt here to steer our boat, with a berth of 20 yards, through the 26 yards-wide calcareous walls that rise steeply on either side of the Corinth Canal in the Aegean Sea. To get a feel for the job in hand, imagine trying to thread a needle without letting wool touch steel.

The water is glassy and flecked with red and green jellyfish, there are no currents to send us ping-ponging from side to side and we glide effortlessly through the passage. The pilot lands safely and the default position of the staff — one of serene composure — is maintained. While his diminutive stature might be a hindrance for the pilot, the fact that the Island Sky is small by seafaring standards is of huge benefit, as I am constantly reminded by the other 77 passengers, many of whom have experienced the horrors of multi-storey cruise ships.

Pru and her husband, Philip, both flossy white-haired and celebrating their diamond wedding anniversary, begin to cluck disapprovingly as one such beast draws up beside us in the port of Dubrovnik, and decants its thousands of passengers, all of whom have sacrificed country-hotel intimacy for an ice-skating rink and a climbing wall.

Our small but perfectly formed cruiser makes the most of its ability to navigate the tiniest and most unspoilt harbours, channels and bays in the Mediterranean. During our 12-day trip, we travel from Croatia to Albania and zigzag between the Greek islands before surging onwards to Turkey.

MS Island Sky Columbus Deck

Our first night is spent docked in the port of Dubrovnik and I’ve been allocated a suite on the Columbus deck, which is so spacious that, had the man or woman who first uttered the words “cabin fever” slept here, they might never have bothered to coin the phrase.

Our temporary floating home offers plenty of diversions. Passengers can be found lolling about in the sun on the top deck or enjoying afternoon tea in The Club. At lunch and dinner, we graze on the fresh, delicious food on board. The baker prepares rolls and pastries for breakfast and scones for afternoon tea, while the pastry chef, a qualified chocolatier, takes the credit or blame, depending on how you look at it, for the delicious desserts and the captain’s ample girth.

We’re not here just to gorge on food and wine; we have some UNESCO world heritage sites to see, and what better way to be introduced to one of them than with a walking tour beginning at Dubrovnik’s Pile Gate and a short drive offering panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea? Our Croatian guide tells us she was nine years old during the Serbo-Montenegrin siege of the city in 1991, and recalls leaving her home with her family for the safety of a hotel in the old town.

By first light the following day we have reached Itea in Greece, and our coach takes us to Delphi, best known for the oracle at the Grand Temple dedicated to Apollo and set nearly 2,000ft up on the slopes of Mount Parnassus. According to legend, Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the world and their paths crossed in the sky above Delphi, establishing the site as the centre of the world.

The mythology of the ancient world also dominates our tour of Troy, in what is now northern Turkey. Our earnest young guide, holding what looks like a broken car aerial, points to a picture depicting the nine cities that have been discovered here, built one on top of the other, the first dating back to 3,500BC. He attempts to separate fact from fiction on the subject of Helen and the Trojan Horse, but the snap-happy visitors don’t seem to care about what’s real or not — they’re too busy climbing into the huge wooden replica horse.

Ephesus, Turkey

Another archeological highlight is the magnificently preserved site of Ephesus, located within easy reach of Turkey’s Kusadasi marina. The remains of the Roman baths, the amphitheatre built to seat 24,000 spectators and the breathtaking Library of Celsus bring the history of an ancient Greco-Roman town to life. The area is suppurating with tourists but we expertly snake through the crowds and regroup at the end of the tour.

Our visit to Ephesus is sandwiched between Symi, the beautiful island of the Dodecanese, with its rainbow coloured Venetian-style architecture fronting onto the elegant harbour, and the bustling port of Chios, an area known for mastic, the resinous gum that grows there, which is used in everything from chewing gum to paint. These ports offer a contrast to the Colgate-white buildings with blue roofs or shutters on the islands in the Cyclades, such as Santorini, famous for its beautiful sunsets, and Folegandros, with its 13th-century Venetian Kastro nestling on a cliff up the hill and tree-shaded cafes where black-clad, raisin-skinned women are gossiping.

By dawn on our last day, we are sailing into the port of Istanbul, the Bosphorus to our right and the Golden Horn to our left. Skyscrapers spike the skyline and the Topkapi Palace squints in the sun. Our guide, Ahmet, sprints ahead and whisks us through the Blue Mosque, a masterpiece of meringue domes and minarets, and then through the Ayasofya museum. The afternoon ends with a visit to the Grand Bazaar, one of the world’s oldest covered markets. It’s a shock of colours and voices spilling out from more than 4,000 shops selling spices, jewellery and carpets. A truly Turkish delight.

Words by Audrey Ward

Saint Petersburg summer palace

What’s in a name?

St Petersburg has certainly had many different names – ones which reflect the enormous changes Russia has been through over the last two centuries.

It was Tsar Peter the Great who founded the city in 1703. The name was not bestowed lightly on the place – Peter made Petersburg Russia’s capital from 1713 to 1728.

Tsar Peter’s first residence in the city was a small hut, today referred to as the Cabin of Peter the Great. He soon upgraded – building first a Summer Palace to spend the city’s warmest ‘white nights’ in and then building a Winter Palace in which to shelter from snowy St Petersburg weather while he plotted his next moves.

The view from the palaces would have been spectacular in his time. With no bridges crossing the daunting Neva River, people had to journey from bank-to-bank by boat – hence the city’s nickname ‘the Venice of the North’.

Peter died in 1725 at the age of 53 and was succeeded by his son who briefly moved the capital to Moscow. But when Empress Anna (Peter the Great’s niece) took over the Russian crown, St Petersburg once more became the country’s first city. Anna was a practical joker; she sometimes had fire bells rung throughout the city so that she could delightedly watch the ensuing panic.

Under her reign, the city really did suffer some catastrophic fires from 1736 to 1737 and the city was only restored to its former grandeur when Peter the Great’s daughter Elizabeth became Empress in 1741.

The city’s founder had been keen to forge closer ties with the west but over the years, Russia has had troubled relationships with other European countries. The outbreak of World War I in 1914 meant that Germany became Russia’s enemy and so the capital’s name was changed from the Germanic St Petersburg to the more Russian-sounding Petrograd.

The name change seemed to bring the city little luck – after four years of intense hardship, German soldiers were closing in on Petrograd and new Bolshevik leader Vladimir Lenin ordered that the capital be moved to Moscow – far further from the German front. The city’s dwindling population did not protest at the move; erecting Revolutionary monuments to honour the rulers who had all but abandoned the city.

The monuments, poorly designed and built, did not last long and neither did Lenin. In 1924, five days after his death, Petrograd became Leningrad; a place which soon became synomonous with a famous siege. This dark period in the city’s history began in September 1941 and was a time when the Nazi German army encircled a starving population which heroically refused to surrender. Against all odds, the siege was broken in January 1943. In January 1944 it was ended.

When the victorious Soviet army marched back into the city, the damage from the Nazi bombs and artillery did not look as severe as it was. The surviving population, driven by pride, had cleaned the streets and put temporary cardboard walls over Leningrad’s most celebrated palaces and buildings to greet the liberating army. Only their haggard appearances and the mass graves hinted at the full story of the appalling conditions they had been forced to endure.

In May 1945, as the Allied leaders decided how to divide up the spoils of the bloody conflict, Russian leader Joseph Stalin named Leningrad as one of five ‘Hero Cities’ of the war. It was not until 8^th May 1945, the 20^th anniversary of the end of the ‘Great Patriotic War’, that a statue acknowledging this accolade was erected. Unlike the revolutionary statues erected during the First World War, this one was built to last.

Other Russian cities recovered from the damage of war by embarking on new building projects and modernising. But Leningrad was not just any city – it instead concentrated on launching meticulous restoration projects to reconstruct the spectacular palaces and other beautiful symbols of pre-War life.

Some would say that this turning back of the clock was completed in 1991 when after a city-wide referendum the place once known as Petrograd and Leningrad again became St Petersburg – a fitting tribute to the Hero City’s original hero.

Sources: http://www.saint-petersburg.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Petersburg

From a gentle introduction to West Africa in the Cape Verde islands, with their verdant banana plantations, craggy volcanic summits and charmingly tranquil Portuguese influenced towns, a cruise down the coast of the mainland takes adventurous travellers east to Senegal and its capital, Dakar. Although it is one of the region’s most westernised cities, there’s a culture shock in store for newly arrived visitors as battered taxis whizz through the port trailing juju horse-hair voodoo charms from their exhausts, and whole families drive past crammed into cars with goats strapped to the roof rack along with their luggage.

Goree Island, Senegal

Amid the melee of women carrying huge baskets of ripe fruit balanced on their heads, and men hanging off the back of colourful minibuses, a chaloupe ferry can be caught to the Île de Gorée. The brightly hued buildings of the UNESCO world heritage site are at odds with Gorée’s dark history as a holding area for slaves in the 18th and 19th centuries before they were sent to the New World. You can visit the bright pink Maison des Esclaves to explore the dank and shadowy cellars where men, women and children were kept, then separated and shipped off to a life of slavery.

Redbilled Hornbill, The Gambia

A cruise down the west coast takes in the continent’s brighter hope for the future, in Gambia, a favourite beach destination that is also heaven for bird-watchers. Twitchers can take an early morning trip to Abuko Nature Reserve, home to more than 300 species of birds and vervet monkeys, snakes and monitor lizards in the rare tropical riverine forest. Off the beaten tourist track, the only way to explore the mainly uninhabited islands of the Bijagos archipelago in Guinea-Bissau is on a Zodiac tour from the cruise ship, which takes in the thriving mangrove forests and beautiful unspoilt beaches not yet found in holiday brochures. After Gambia and the remote islands, it can be a jolt to see urban areas again as the forests and golden stretches of Sierra Leone’s coastline gradually morph into the hazy mirage of Freetown, the capital recently torn by civil war. Decaying buildings claw their way up the hillside, half-hidden by a mist that hangs over the city like a spectre, and down by the port stilted wooden houses drop into the sea. Leaving the crumbling chaos of the city, a bumpy drive through orange-soiled lush-green banana plantations and makeshift villages will take you up into the hills to Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, where chimps have been saved from ending up as bush meat and happily hoot their appreciation at feeding time.

Beyond Sierra Leone and along the Gold Coast, colourful wooden fishing boats bob offshore at the rather industrial Ghanaian port of Sekondi- Takoradi where the tang of drying fish hangs in the air. Ghana’s coastline is dotted with fortresses, built by Europeans to protect their interests in ivory, gold and slavery. Cape Coast Castle was founded by the Swedes and fell into the hands of both the Danes and the Dutch before being taken by the English in 1662. It has UNESCO world heritage status owing to its role in the slave trade.

A short hop along the coast is the small country of Togo and its pretty coast, lined with coconut groves and white beaches. Traditional villages showcasing the local way of life as it has been lived for centuries can be visited on the banks of Lake Togo but the most fascinating place to visit is the voodoo fetish market in Lomé, the capital: a pungent row of stalls selling animal horns and shrunken monkey heads.

Village of Ganvie, Benin

East of Togo is the slightly larger country of Benin, which also borders Nigeria and is home to the birthplace of the voodoo religion in the town of Ouidah. In the forest, you’ll find crumbling old French architecture and the remains of culturally important voodoo altars and temples, including the scarily snake-infested python temple. Better known to Europeans as Dahomey, the French colonial name for Benin, the country is abuzz with Chinese motorbikes that act as zemidjans (“get me there fast” taxis) and everybody seems to be in a race to industrialise. Benin is most famous for its stilted village on Lake Ganvie. Ganvie is known as the Venice of Africa but banish all thoughts of beautiful Italianate buildings and gondolas as this is Africa’s largest lake village and home to more than 30,000 people. From Benin, the ship heads out to sea and returns to the coast at Cameroon, which emerges dramatically like a bright splash of green. Dominated by mighty Mount Cameroon, its coastal forests and wildlife have made it a magnet for animal lovers.

As the ship heads further south, the heat and humidity are turned up a notch at every port of call and the equator is crossed and recrossed on a visit to the sister islands of Principe and São Tomé. Colonised by the Portuguese for four centuries until independence in 1975, Principe is an exotic blend of rainforests, waterfalls and white beaches. Neighbouring São Tomé is a more dilapidated mix of weather beaten and fading buildings overshadowed by gigantic breadfruit trees and hot pink hibiscus flowers.

Further south, beyond Angola en route to Cape Town, lies Namibia, where Swakopmund rises like an extraordinary mirage. Behind the palm-fringed promenade of the town that Namibians consider their only real holiday resort lies a beguiling web of colonial architecture.

Flamingos at Walvis Bay, Namibia

Built around the turn of the 20^th century, the buildings are an incongruous legacy of Namibia’s 31 years as a German protectorate. Many wonderful properties lie within an easy stroll, including the hostel Prinzessin Rupprecht Heim, a former military hospital, and the ornate Altes Amtsgericht (old courthouse). Down at Walvis Bay, the coast’s only deep-water port, past Atlantic rollers smashing on to desert dunes, attention turns to the great outdoors. The lagoon is fit for an Attenborough documentary. It has seals, bottlenose dolphins, leatherback turtles and prolific birdlife, with waders, pelicans and, in winter, 70% of southern Africa’s flamingos; autumn sees humpback and southern right whales arrive.

Walvis Bay is also Namibia’s adrenaline HQ. If people aren’t taking 4WDs into the desert, they’re quadbiking, sandboarding on dunes or skydiving above the spectacular coast.

It’s a tad less energetic further south at Lüderitz. This remote, windblown port offers a colourful riot of colonial buildings — the Deutsche Afrika Bank, railway station and Felsenkirche are crackers — alongside serious seafood and a slightly Wild West vibe, with miners spinning yarns in local bars. Some of Lüderitz’s biggest attractions lie just outside town, including Agate Beach — an epic sundowner spot — and a drive through an almost lunar landscape to Diaz Point. Most famous and haunting of all is the ghost town of Kolmanskop, a once-thriving diamond centre abandoned in 1954.

Each port of call on this west coast of Africa signals an exciting new adventure as you follow in the footsteps of explorers. And the perfect end to a day of exploration, in the company of expert guides, is the return to the creature comforts of the Island Sky for a fine dinner and discussion of the day’s experiences.

Words by Amy Watkins

South Georgia the place where explorer Ernest Shackleton died.

When the Discovery ship set sail from Cardiff in August 1901 it had on board two men who would come to define the heroic age of Antarctic exploration for British Historians.

The lives of Ernest Shackleton and Robert Falcon Scott would become inextricably linked with the Discovery’s intended destination – Antarctica – as would their deaths.

That the Discovery Expedition, which both Shackleton and Scott were key figures in, was the first official British exploration of the Antarctic regions for over 60 years had much to do with the fact that other countries were taking a sudden interest in the continent of Antarctica.

Ships from Germany, Sweden, France and Scotland were all departing to explore this neglected part of the world just as Discovery’s crew waved goodbye to their loved ones from the deck of the ship.

So, while the Discovery mission ostensibly has scientific and geographical objectives, there was also a sense of one-upmanship about the task – could British explorers step on ground on which no man had stepped on before?

Accounts of the expedition also hint at a sense of one-upmanship between Scott, the ship’s captain, – and Shackleton, the third officer. The two men possibly discovered rather more about their ambitions (and limitations) than they did about science and geography by the time they (separately) returned to England several years later…

August 1901 – Discovery sets sail

As the ship raised its blue flag and hit the open ocean, Scott was in his 33^rd year. Shackleton, whose duties on board would include sea-water analysis, provision ordering and organising entertainment, was 27.

Scott soon made it clear that he wanted to run a tight ship –Discovery was not a Royal Navy ship but the captain still imposed a strict code of discipline in his dealings with the crew. It can only be guessed whether Shackleton felt a little shackled by this style of regime – he certainly favoured a more relaxed approach to dealing with his juniors when he later became a captain.

Ship steward Clarence Hare was to note that Shackleton was “the most popular of the officers among the crew, being a good mixer”. Scott, as the most senior officer, understandably had to keep more distance from other members of the crew as for a year they explored parts of a continent no human eyes had ever seen before.

November 1902

Another type of distance was certainly on the restless Scott’s mind as, on November 2^nd 1902, he attempted a march southwards to achieve the highest-possible latitude in the direction of the South Pole.

Shackleton, although only fourth-in-command, made the three-man team which Scott selected for the arduous trek. Multi-tasking junior doctor and zoologist Edward Wilson was the other man chosen for the arduous trek. Wilson’s ice-cool calmness and patience made him the ideal companion for the sometimes-fiery Scott.

Shackleton’s inclusion in the three-man team suggests that there was no particular resentment existing between him and Scott at this stage of the journey. Or perhaps Scott just wanted to pick the best men for the task.

Although not a serious attempt to reach the South Pole, the trek did come further south than any previous expedition. But the journey took its toll, not least on Shackleton’s health.

Wilson hinted at how Shackleton’s woes might have been regarded as an unwelcome burden on the small team. Wilson’s journal entry for 14th January reads: “Shackleton has been anything but up to the mark, and today he is decidedly worse, very short-winded and coughing constantly, with more serious symptoms that need not be detailed here but which are of no small consequence one hundred and sixty miles from the ship”.

To be fair to Shackleton, conditions had been perilous – all 22 sledge dogs accompanying the three-man expedition team died before the end of the return journey. The three men were all affected by snow-blindness before they reached the safety of The Discovery. Was it possible that they suffered from memory-blindness too – Scott indiscreetly claimed that an incapacitated Shackleton had to be carried on his sledge; so badly had his condition declined on the lonely return journey. Shackleton would insist this was not the case.

What is indisputable is the fact that the three men had heroically covered 960 miles during the southern trek’s 93 days. If Shackleton expected a hero’s welcome from The Discovery, he would have been disappointed – Scott unceremoniously sent him home on a relief ship and he took no further part in the expedition.

Many years later, Albert Armitage, the Discovery’s second-in-command, insisted that there had been a falling-out between the pair on the southern journey. Scott, Armitage claimed, had informed the ship’s doctor that “if he does not go back sick he will go back in disgrace”.

Certainly the publication of Scott’s account of Shackleton’s struggle in his book The Voyage of the Discovery, could not, have been viewed as a happy souvenir of the trip by Shackleton. According to biographer Roland Huntford, Shackleton’s attitude to Scott soon became one of “smouldering scorn and dislike”.

His captain might have sent him home from the expedition but, Huntford wrote, “a salvage of wounded pride required that Shackleton should return to the Antarctic in an attempt to outdo Scott”.

Post-script

In 1908 Shackleton made a successful return journey to the Antarctic – this time as leader of his own expedition – and came within 112 miles of the South Pole; considerably further than he and Scott had reached in 1903.

Norwegian explorer Roald Amudsen wrote a congratulatory telegram praising Shackleton for “a deed that cannot be surpassed”.

In 1911; the record was surpassed. By Amudsen. While Shackleton basked in the glory of a knighthood in his native Scotland, Scott died in the attempt to reach the South Pole before the great Norwegian.

A third Shackleton expedition to the Antarctic in 1914 and 1915 is documented in South; the explorer’s account of the heroic journey which sealed his reputation.

Still Shackleton’s ambitions were not satisfied and he launched an audacious effort to circumnavigate the Antarctic continent – a feat which even Scott had not attempted.

On 4^th January 1922, Shackleton’s ship The Quest arrived in South Georgia. The next morning Shackleton complained to the ship’s physician Macklin of back pains and other discomfort. Macklin told his charge that he had been overdoing things and should attempt to lead “a more regular life”.

It was a command which the extraordinary Shackleton, had he not suffered a heart attack moments later, was never likely to comply with.

Sources: http://www.noble-caledonia.co.uk/nc/press_article_detail.asp?id=25&from=tour&reference=1407

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/shackleton_ernest.shtml

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernest_Shackleton

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Falcon_Scott

Lauca National Park, Chile

Chile, 2,690 miles long but never more than 120 wide, has fabulous attractions for the intrepid traveller, not least the bleakly beautiful Atacama, the world’s driest desert, and the spectacular Andes. Nothing is very far from its gorgeous coastline, so it’s the perfect destination for a cruise. Follow the coast for a chain of must-see ports of call.

Hop aboard your vessel at the lovely fishing port of Puerto Montt, set against a backdrop of two snow-capped volcanoes, having stocked up with handmade boots, copperware, ponchos and woollens in the local market. A day away, to the north, is Valdivia, in the Lake District, 10 miles from the sea. The gorgeous architecture — and the beer — reveal the influence of the German immigrants who moved to the city in the mid-19th century. Find out more about its indigenous inhabitants at the archaeology museum, which has a large collection of Mapuche Indian artefacts.

The Mapuche named Isla Mocha “the resurrection of souls” as they believed the spirits of the dead crossed the sea from the mainland to rest for ever on this beautiful island. Now a national reserve, Isla Mocha can be explored from the cruise ship in a Zodiac inflatable boat, an adventure in itself. See how many of the island’s 102 species of birds you can spot.

Steam on up the coast and you reach Valparaiso, Chile’s main port, built on 42 hills, behind which lie the wine growing regions. Along the way, make sure you sample Pisco, the clear grape brandy that is Chile’s national drink.

Norte Grande is a stark landscape where white Andean peaks subside into rocky foothills, foothills become desert plains and the plains in turn fall away into a windswept stretch of Pacific coastline. Antofagasta is the region’s largest city, interrupting the flat coastal strip with a clutch of high-rise buildings and gridlocked streets. It’s a prosperous place, born of the 19th-century mining boom, but nowadays has a weary air.

Arriving here by sea, you’ll see the working port first, hectic with exports of minerals from the Atacama’s rich mining industry. Huge tankers slide past little fishing boats and the docks are shadowed by towering cranes. At the north end of the port, vendors at the Terminal Pesquero, the small fish market, peddle fresh shellfish and marlin, while in town, on Jose Santos Ossa, offerings at the bigger central market range from Chilean mountain papayas to dried pigs’ feet and cows’ heads. It’s a busy, matter-of-fact place that reflects the spirit of the city.

Antofagasta Region Atacama

Before sailing on to the northern coastal towns of Iquique and Arica, an overland excursion to the heart of the Atacama Desert is a must. Famed for being one of the driest areas in the world, it’s much less barren and monotonous than the desert of popular imagination. Infinitely empty yet full of fascinating scenery, the Atacama is a place of ochre mountains, salt pans, steaming geysers, weird rock formations, turquoise lagoons and a silence so profound you can hear salt deposits cracking beneath the sun. In this bare terrain you feel very close to the planet’s bones. Lack of cloud cover and low light pollution make for extraordinary stargazing, too.

Sailing north, the port city of Iquique is the next big centre. It’s another mining town and retains some of its 19th-century swagger. Within striking distance of the town centre, Playa Cavancha and Playa Brava are broad city beaches, busy at weekends with crowds of good-looking young people and sprawling families.

The coastal landscape empties out as you sail north to Arica, a laid-back desert town backed by dunes and cliffs, with sheltered coastal coves and a white, 19th-century gothic cathedral designed by Gustave Eiffel.

An overland tour takes you into Lauca National Park and the tiny Andean village of Parinacota, home of the Aymara people.

Crossing into Peruvian waters, it is worth stopping at San Juan for a tour to the Nazca Lines, vast geoglyphs believed to have been created between 900BC and 600AD. The meaning of the motifs, ranging from straight lines to spiders and monkeys, is still a mystery.

Northwards again, the Islas Ballestas on the edge of the Paracas national reserve can be viewed only by boat to minimise disturbance to wildlife. These pristine islands, eroded into spectacular caves and arches, have one of the highest concentrations of marine birds on the planet.

Returning to the mainland via Callao, where the Real Felipe fortress overlooks the harbour, the final stop is the Peruvian capital of Lima. It’s a chaotic place but spectacularly rich in culture. In the smart cliff-top district of Miraflores, watch the sun set over the Pacific with a pisco sour in hand, or stop for ceviche on Avenida La Mar. The laid-back Barranco district has a thriving artistic community, with the Galeria Lucia de la Puente exhibiting fresh talent.

Words by Flora King

MS Island Sky

The shortest distance between two points, they say, is a straight line. Ask a sailor and you will get a different answer. Wind, current and tide have always determined a ship’s course. Similarly, distance travelled is not the way to measure a voyage in the Baltic Sea. What matters are the destinations, the places beside this body of water that for more than 1,000 years has existed in suspense between the divergent cultural and religious influences and antagonistic power blocs that shaped the modern world.

The nine countries lapped by its waters have always struggled to be a community, through conflict or co-operation, the latter epitomised by the medieval “European Union” known as the Hanseatic League — in reality, a loose trade federation of port cities that grew up around the Baltic in the 12^th century. It was the sea that connected them. The resonance a cruise has with this history is wonderful. Nevertheless, until relatively recently, a voyage around its historic and often beautiful shores in a ship such as Noble Caledonia’s Island Sky would have been unthinkable: the Iron Curtain, in Churchill’s famous words, “From Stettin in the Baltic…”, saw to that. The Baltic states of Lithuania, Estonia and Latvia, and, to a certain extent Russia, were “no go” areas. Today it is again possible to visit all nine countries by sea, and in almost as many days.

Frederiksborg castle in Hillerod, Denmark

An 11th-century monk and early geographer, Adam of Bremen, was the first person to describe the northern sea as Mare Balticum. As he looked at the crude maps of the time, he was struck by its shape, which to his mind resembled a girdle or belt — the Latin for which is “balteus”. The girdle was studded with amber, known as “Baltic gold”. The brownish-yellow resin excreted by prehistoric pine trees has always been regarded as a luxury item. It filled the holds of Hanse ships in the Middle Ages and remains prized today, in the form of necklaces and other jewellery.

Stockholm

The real treasures of the Baltic, however, are the great cities that adorn its shores, such as chic and sophisticated Copenhagen or Tallinn, a medieval gem. Then there are the Hanseatic splendours of Gdansk and Riga; or pristine Helsinki, where Lutheranism comes face to face with Russian Orthodoxy. And there is regal Stockholm, a capital city spread over 14 green and pleasant islands and, uniquely among its European neighbours, one that has avoided the ravages of modern warfare.

However, the jewel in the crown is the youngest of them all, just 300 years old. Imagine a shining city rising where there had been barren marsh. It is a city started during a bitter war and built at huge human cost; a great cultural project to end centuries of isolation; a place to rival Paris; a city dressed in the colours of a thousand ball gowns. This is St Petersburg.

St Petersburg, Russia

On the morning I first came alongside at the English Embankment on the river Neva in the heart of the city, the golden onion domes and finger-like spires sparkling in the sunshine were strangely familiar. For here all is an imitation of the great western cities, designed by French and Italians, yet lived in by Russians.

In this least typical of Russian cities one finds an intensely proud and patriotic people, not least because of the city’s unimaginable suffering — from the day in 1703 when the first stones splashed into the marsh, through the 1917 revolution that shook the world, to the great siege in which 1.3m civilians starved to death in its defence between 1941 and 1944.

From the Admiralty with its thin, golden spire piercing the sky like a needle, you can walk the length of Nevsky Prospekt, the great boulevard that the poet Aleksandr Blok called “the most lyric street, the most poetic in the world”. A bit shabby it may be today but it is St Petersburg’s Oxford Street and Knightsbridge rolled into one.

Famous landmark of Sankt Petersburg, Russia. Winter Palace which houses Hermitage museum

To the left is the lovely neoclassical Armenian Church, to the right the majestic Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan and just around the corner the fantastic Russian Museum. Here you can feast in comfort on the country’s own art tradition of the 18th century and the earthy images of everyday life in the real Russia of the 19th century. Meanwhile, crowds jostle to take photographs of the Leonardos, Rembrandts and Picassos at the State Hermitage Museum, which is a shrine to western art. Legend has it that the many statues on the roof of the Hermitage are visitors who got lost in its labyrinth of corridors and galleries.

St Petersburg has always been the capital of Russian creative life. It is a northern Palmyra, home to the likes of Pushkin, Dostoevsky, Diaghilev and Shostakovich, whose eyes fixed on the wonders we come to see today. There is the Peter and Paul Fortress, which was the very beginning of the city created by Peter the Great. Its elegant golden spire is like an exclamation mark and appears fragile against the huge golden dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral on the other bank of the Neva. Also opposite is the grandiose baroque architecture of Rastrelli’s Winter Palace, while hidden down the Moika Canal is the smaller, less opulent yellow-painted Yusupov Palace, where the “Mad Monk” Rasputin met his grim end.

An early-morning start is the best way to avoid the crowds that by mid-morning swamp the restored and brightly coloured baroque palaces of Peterhof and Tsarskoe Selo, better known as Catherine Palace, but now dubbed Pushkin. In the afternoons, one returns to the city for an optional tour or some free time to prepare for a Russian folklore concert and classical ballet at Catherine the Great’s theatre, adjoining the Hermitage. Island Sky itineraries include two or three days in the city. On the last afternoon, a farewell canal trip shows off the interplay of water, granite stone and slender bridges that make St Petersburg the Venice of the North.

Words by Peter Warwick

Tristan da Cunha

Perched on an active volcano, about 1,750 miles from South Africa, Tristan da Cunha is one of the world’s most remote communities. The volcano’s barren peak, 6,760ft above sea level, overlooks a heart-shaped crater lake. Immense gulches split the steep slopes, flanked by lava pinnacles and soft cinder screes. Further down, the mountain levels off and thickets of tree ferns provide shelter for Atlantic yellownosed albatross, known locally as mollies, to breed. Elsewhere, northern rockhopper penguins come ashore to breed in stony rookeries.

Tristan is home to a resolute community of 270 souls who, against the odds, thrive in this harsh environment. An eruption of the volcano 50 years ago forced islanders to leave, but they soon returned. Today there are no hotels or restaurants. Geography rules out an airport but the increasing popularity of Antarctic trips now brings Tristan several cruise ships each year for visits of one or two days. Noble Caledonia is pioneering visits of five days this year and next, aboard its flagship, the MS Island Sky.

The 2011 Passage to Tristan da Cunha and Beyond is a pilgrimage for the ship’s captain, Torbjörn Svensson, the son of Roland Svensson, a noted Swedish artist and writer. Roland made several journeys to Tristan, first accompanying the islanders on their return from volcanic exile in 1963, and capturing the harsh beauty of the terrain in his paintings.

As with all islands having offshore anchorages, shore visits for Island Sky passengers will depend on the weather but, with five midsummer days available, the chances are good. On arrival, Inspector Conrad Glass (Tristan’s only full-time policeman) will board the ship to stamp passports. With almost no crime to combat, Glass has had the time to write Rockhopper Copper, a book that chronicles the island’s history. His great-great-great grandfather Corporal William Glass from Kelso, Scotland, founded the Tristan community when he opted to stay behind with his wife and two children after the British garrison, which arrived on the island in 1816, left a year later. There are only seven island surnames, derived from the eclectic bunch of settlers who later joined Glass and his descendants: English sailor Thomas Swain; shipwrecked sailors Peter Green, from Holland, and Gaetano Lavarello and Andrea Repetto from Italy; and American whalers Andrew Hagan and Thomas Rogers.

Edinburgh settlement & 1961 volcanic cone, Tristan da Cunha

Once ashore, you can explore what is officially named Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, following the visit of the first Duke of Edinburgh in 1856, but is usually just called the Settlement or the village. Sights include St Mary’s Anglican Church, with its portrait of Queen Victoria presented to the islanders by Her Majesty in 1896, and a bell from the 1878 shipwreck of the Mabel Clark. With temperatures usually above 20C in December, you can roam the mountain with island guides, play golf or join a side to take on the Tristan Tigers football team. All island families undertake farming activity and the Settlement is the hub, with cattle, working dogs, hens and ducks ranging free. Dominating the lower village is the modern fishing factory, a good place to taste crayfish (called crawfish locally and marketed as Tristan rock lobster) as they are processed and frozen after being caught by island fishermen.

Beyond the village, the Settlement Plain offers good hiking. Eastwards, the 1961 lava flow is a challenging scramble as the surface is covered in jagged black lava. Westwards, the only graded road winds over a low pass behind a recent volcanic complex known as Hillpiece, which is worth climbing to enjoy fine views of the village and 25 miles out to sea to the uninhabited world heritage site of Inaccessible Island. Continue to the Potato Patches, where islanders cultivate their staple crop in small walled gardens. Here you may see three generations working together and, at Christmas, harvesting early new potatoes. Nearby are “camping huts” where islanders stay overnight and often hold braais (barbecues).

Rockhopper Penguin Tristan da Cunha

At the beginning of the summer holiday almost the entire village takes part in the annual shearing day on the Patches Plain. The white, grey and black island wool is carded, spun and knitted by hand into garments. Go on to explore Runaway Beach with its grey volcanic sand. Dip in the rock pools but look out for octopus (known locally as catfish) lurking among the brightly coloured seaweeds, while Antarctic terns hover above. Island guides can take you to the nature reserve on Nightingale Island, 25 miles southwest of Tristan. As you step ashore, seabirds will surround you. Tread carefully, for every step will be over seabird tunnels, including those of about 3m pairs of great shearwaters. Rockhopper penguins abound. Further inland are bog-fringed “ponds” surrounded by nests on which, at Christmas, mollies will be sheltering downy chicks.

Five-day Island Sky visits offer the chance (as an optional extra) to stay overnight in islanders’ homes as they celebrate the festive season, sharing the “big eats” that often feature stuffed roast mutton. As a visitor, you may join them for midnight mass, a Boxing Night dance and Old Year’s Night (as New Year’s Eve is called on Tristan), celebrations for which men dress in weird costumes to tour the village. You’ll probably make friends for life.

Words by Richard Grundy

Moais on Easter island

Easter Island knows a thing or two about perfect timing, writes Ian Belcher. As its huge canopy of sky explodes into purple and crimson above four enigmatic statues, a local strums his guitar and, right on cue, as the setting sun kisses the South Pacific, a whale breaches off the point.

It’s utterly memorable. Marvellously mysterious. Easter Island, or Rapa Nui, a small, volcanic dot 2,300 miles west of Chile, is an eerie hybrid landscape of Polynesia and Scotland, its moors riddled with 887 moai − vast ancestral sculptures that have long fascinated archaeologists and anthropologists.

The moai, with their flat foreheads, long noses and impassive stares, are reminders of a civilisation that committed terrible self-genocide. Built over a millennium from 500AD, the figures gazed over the ceremonial plazas of different clans who engaged in brutal warfare as the remote island’s resources stretched to breaking point. Once the trees were cut down, there were no boats, no fishing − no escape. When Chile took control in 1888, 111 people remained from a peak of 10,000.

Many statues, smashed in the carnage, have been raised to their original sacred positions. They make compelling theatre. Ahu Akivi’s seven stone figures are believed to represent the first settlers who canoed from Polynesia. What better place to start? But they pale in comparison with the 15 at Ahu Tongariki. Up to 18m high, they show how the moai became more angular, regal and sophisticated. “Feel their strength,” explains my guide, Singa. “They transmitted energy as soon as they were erected.”

Rapa Nui’s secrets are gradually revealed through a series of mesmerizing forays from the lush capital, Hanga Roa, the island’s only settlement. After exploring the remains of dwellings shaped like upturned canoes, ancient boat ramps and caves containing ancestral skulls, I arrive at Ahu Tahai, scene of that perfect sunset. One of the moai has intact eyes — the red coral was the final act of construction, switching on the ancestors’ protective power.

Easter Island - crater of the volcano Rano Raraku

But most intriguing of all are two volcanoes. Rano Kau’s wide, spectacular cone, its slopes plummeting into the ocean, was the site of the annual birdman competition. Participants sprinted down the vertiginous cliffs, dived into the Pacific and swam out to an island to collect a precious bird’s egg. First back received a pale-skinned virgin and his clan governed the island.

On another afternoon, I walk to Rano Raraku, where statues were sculpted from a wall of magma, before being cut free and transported to their altars. Some remain half-finished in the rock face — monuments to the day society imploded. It’s far calmer now for the world’s most unusual lifeguards. Rapa Nui really is no ordinary island.

Words by Ian Belcher

Young Elephant Seal

Down here at the bottom of the world, everything looks different. The mountains are sharp and forbidding and, between them, fat tongues of ice slide into the sea. Sea lions lounge about on the rocks like elderly, overweight colonels, prone to sudden rages and terrible halitosis (keep your distance and thank the Lord you don’t have to eat them) and storm petrels shadow the ship into shore.

Patagonia, once the end of the earth and now the main jumping-off point for the Antarctic and the Falkland Islands, has always been exotic. On a map, it looks as though the tail-bone of the Americas has sat down rather too quickly: the eastern, or Argentine, half is largely solid, but the western, or Chilean, part has shattered into a million pieces, forming fjords and islands. The two countries share the island of Tierra del Fuego and indulge in regular territorial spats.

From a visitor’s viewpoint, it is a land of woolly islets that loom out of the morning mist, much as they did for Ferdinand Magellan, the 16th-century navigator, and the unfamiliar constellations and animals that intrigued Charles Darwin about 300 years later as he passed on HMS Beagle. Explorers named the landmarks as they went: the Spanish after feelings — Desolation Island, Cape Desire, Salvation Bay — and the British after all the jolly good chaps who sailed through: Brecknock, Cockburn and Londonderry, Darwin and his captain, Fitzroy.

Guanaco (Lama Guanicoe) admiring the Andes. Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia, Chile.

The odd sheep estancia hunkers down against the wind, but there are few humans here. Instead there are colonies of Magellanic penguins and seals. As I pick my way along the paths — birds must not be touched or alarmed — the grey and white penguins sit in shallow burrows, gazing in frank amazement as creatures in yellow plumage waddle about uttering cries of “How cute!” Days later, in Chile’s Torres del Paine national park, three hours’ drive north from Puerto Natales, we struggle to make out guanaco — llama-like creatures with soft toffee-and-cream fur and huge, black eyes — against the tawny grasslands. Are the birds wheeling over the jagged peaks condors or large buzzards? We never quite know and instead use binoculars to watch climbers on the granite faces of the Torres and marvel at the mass of Grey Glacier.

Settlements are so few and far between that they tend to make an impression. Puerto Natales feels like a military garrison. Up the Chilean coast, Castro, the capital of Chiloe Island, could have been made by a matchstick modeller: its houses, shingled in fish scales, diamonds and rectangles, are painted in heroically clashing colours. Even the church looks like a primary school project, and there is knitwear — all strips, diagonals and stars — to match.

Volcano Osorno and Lago Llanquihue in Chile

Before zigzagging up and over the Andes, we stop in Puerto Montt, adventure capital of Chile’s Lake District, with its heart-stopping backdrop of a perfectly conical volcano, Osorno. Every so often, between its low, chalet-style buildings, up pops a gabled, pinnacled confection so gothic that you expect Morticia Addams to open the front door. Restaurants advertise kuechen (cake) or steins (beer) and elderly men potter about in suits and Homburg hats. Yet the market sells exotic Pacific fish and jewellery made by Mapuche Indians, who wander down the country every summer to sell.

There is something glorious about crossing the Andes with their vertiginous drops and tantalizing condor/buzzard sightings. On the Argentine side, the road descends into a national park named after a lake, Nahuel Huapi (pronounced Nar-wel Wapi) and the ski town of San Carlos de Bariloche. The town may be prosperous but don’t underestimate Nahuel Huapi: it’s said to be bottomless and to house the Argentine version of the Loch Ness monster. Well, of course it would: we may be 1,000 miles from Cape Horn but we’re still in Patagonia.

Words by Sophie Campbell

MS Island Sky

More social event than cruise, the MS Island Sky embodies the spirit of Noble Caledonia. Here, the UK’s most seasoned cruise critic Sue Bryant reports from the deck where you can read about the ship’s reunion with sister vessel, the MS Caledonian Sky.

Laughter and noisy banter drifts up from The Club, where the after dinner crowd looks ready to dance, if Alwin on the piano can step up the pace from his usual gentle Cole Porter. He does, and they do. But I’ve slipped out onto the teak deck, still warm from the sun, even though it’s long after nightfall. The ship’s foamy wake is almost phosphorescent in the moonlight and the sky is carpeted with stars. Island Sky is steaming across the inky-black Mediterranean to her next port. I’m all alone up here, and incredibly content.

A voyage on Island Sky is as far removed from the traditional concept of big ship cruising as it’s possible to get. Imagine a sleek little ship like a gentleman’s yacht, all brass and polished wood inside, with a cosy bar where the bartender knows exactly how many slices of lime you prefer in your gin and tonic.

Guests enjoying supper on the lido deck

With only 114 guests on board who eat, drink and explore ashore together, the ship exudes a country house atmosphere – complete, I might add, with the kind of good-natured intrigue and gossip you’d expect at a large house party, as friendships are formed and life stories exchanged.

Because Island Sky is so small, the ship can call at exquisite smaller ports overlooked by bigger ships; Chania in Crete, with its Venetian inspired architecture, or Delos in the Cyclades, steeped in mythology. Or it can go island-hopping through the Azores, or drop anchor in the sheltered bay of Iles des Saintes in the Caribbean.

Wherever in the world the ship is sailing, life on board quickly settles into a civilised and unhurried pattern. Days begin with breakfast on deck in the early morning sunshine. When the ship is in port, guests set off on tour together. Often, visits to more popular sites are timed so that Island Sky’s guests arrive before the hordes, or stay long after they have departed. Full-day excursions include a magnificent lunch in a local restaurant and a chance to sample regional specialities and wines.

Much later, back on the ship, everybody miraculously manages to find room for afternoon tea, a decadent affair with a different variety of hot scones every day topped with huge dollops of jam and cream, and tea served from an ornate samovar. Some days on my Eastern Mediterranean voyage brought special treats; the chef whipped up a cinnamon and rum concoction of Bananas Foster on deck as we transited the Suez Canal, while on another occasion, we tucked into crêpes suzettes as the anchor was hauled in the late afternoon. Early evening is a time for reading in one of the deep, squashy chairs in The Club, the ship’s convivial bar, or listening to Alwin at the piano, or soaking up the last of the sun’s rays on deck. Some days, we’d attend a lecture before dinner. Guest speakers accompany every voyage and there were two on mine: Dr Alan Borg, librarian of the Order of St John, who took us on a fascinating voyage back in time through the Crusades; and veteran Middle East news correspondent Robert Fox, who spoke about the complex political situation in the region.

MS Island Sky Restaraunt

Dinners are long, drawn-out affairs in which everybody dines together and the adventures of the day are discussed over delights such as honey-glazed duck, or spiced samosas with palm heart salad, or fresh fish scored by the chef in the local market that day. Needless to say, bedtime is most welcome after long days ashore and, for some, much postprandial merriment in the bar. The suites on Island Sky are a joy, adorned with sumptuous fabrics and polished wood. Mine was furnished in subtle shades of green and gold, and the bathroom featured a marble-topped vanity unit and walk-in shower.

MS Island Sky Staff

The ship’s crew are clearly chosen for their powers of recall, as everybody knew me by name from the beginning. The lengths that crew members would go to never ceased to amaze me. When I lost the back of one of my earrings and asked my cabin stewardess to look out for it, she knocked at the door minutes later with a replacement. The mâitre d’ did a spectacular job matching people with suitable table-mates at dinner, always discreet and always professional. Even the welcome back onboard every day was thoughtful. We’d be greeted with a different refreshment every time we returned from a tour; fresh orange juice and ice-cold towels on a hot day and hot, spiced apple tea when the weather turned cold. Not surprisingly, there were more than a few damp eyes among the guests as the whole crew lined up on the quayside to wave us off on the last day. Happily, there’s a new chapter about to start in the story of this wonderful little blue ship. Island Sky was originally built in the mid-1990s for a cruise line called Renaissance Cruises and unimaginatively named Renaissance VIII. She was the last in a series of eight small ships. Renaissance Cruises didn’t survive and all eight sisters were sold off and scattered across the world.

Noble Caledonia acquired Island Sky in 2004 for long term charter, and in 2010 it bought the ship and spent several million pounds on an extensive facelift. Now, the company has taken over one of Island Sky’s sisters, Renaissance VI, which had sailed under various names, including Hebridean Spirit and, most recently, Sunrise, as a swanky private charter yacht. The new ship will undergo a refit this winter to bring her into line with the style and quality of Island Sky, and will join Noble Caledonia in May 2012 as Caledonian Sky.

Essentially, this doubles the choices for those seasoned travellers who have fallen in love with this style of small ship cruising. Island Sky will sail in Europe, Africa and South and Central America, while Caledonian Sky will cruise around Britain and north to the Arctic in 2012, before heading for the Pacific. Here, she will explore everywhere from the fjords of New Zealand to the smoking volcanoes of the remote Kamchatka peninsula in Russia’s Far East – and without doubt Caledonian Sky will inspire the same devoted following as her sister.

In recent years, many Greek myths have been shown to reflect real events, possibly even real people, and the explorer Tim Severin has proved that it was possible for an “Argo” to be rowed up the Bosphorus in search of a golden fleece. The ancient inhabitants of Colchis, now Georgia, used the fleeces of sheep to pan for gold. Colchis was known for its beauty and modern cruise ships dock at Batumi, where a headland overlooking the sea has a wonderful arboretum with exotic trees, from which one can imagine Medea or a soporific dragon emerging at any moment.

The Black Sea countries grew rich in antiquity selling their plentiful fish and grain from the Steppes to Athens, which was short of arable land. They repeated this service for the subsequent Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires — the fast food on the street corners of 10th-century Constantinople was Beluga caviar, a staple for the poor.

Istanbul, where caviar is no longer cheap, is today the start and end point for most Black Sea cruises, often with an additional hotel stay. Only Rome, Athens and Alexandria can rival this teeming capital for historical importance. Founded by Greeks in the 7th century BC, it was refounded a thousand years later by the emperor Constantine, in AD324. Much is left to be seen from this time on, despite the depredations of the Fourth Crusade, which plundered the city and destroyed countless treasures.

Trabzon Sumela Monastery

Istanbul — despite its noise and commercial bustle — is a travellers’ delight, with some of the most exceptional sites a short walk apart. The old Roman underground cistern of 1,001 columns (which featured in From Russia with Love) is just a five-minute stroll from the emperor Justinian’s sixth-century Aghia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) church. The finest mosque in “the city” (as Greeks and Turks alike refer to it) is the Suleymaniye, dedicated to Suleiman the Magnificent. Like its Blue cousin a generation or two later, it borrows from the design and scale of Aghia Sophia.

Trabzon is a lovely city on the south coast of the Black Sea, even if it can never quite manage the romance of Rose Macaulay’s book The Towers of Trebizond. The city itself has a wonderful Byzantine church but the site that must not be missed is the nearby cave monastery of Sumela. This was once the greatest monastery in Byzantine Asia Minor, perched above a vertiginous 1,000ft cliff. It has a single entrance at the end of a narrow rock path not recommended for those who suffer from fear of heights— I virtually crawled on all fours, making an undignified but relieved entrance, to be greeted by magnificent frescoes that transformed my mood, until the time came to climb back down.

Ukraine Crimea Yalta Livadia Palace

The highlight of the cruise for many is in modern Ukraine, where the Crimean peninsula offers magnificent architecture and palaces from the time of Catherine the Great to the early 20^th century. It was here, in the Livadia Palace near Yalta in February 1945, that Churchill, Roosevelt and Stalin carved up post-war Europe. Churchill’s delegation stayed along the coast at the Alupka Palace, a pseudo-baronial and mock-Moorish leviathan by the anglophile Count Mikhail Vorontsov, governor of New Russia from 1824. Here he hosted the poet Pushkin, who, not satisfied by describing Vorontsov as a “marmoreal prig”, seduced his wife.

Ukraine Crimea Yalta Swallows Nest

For me, the most moving visit of the cruise was to the recently restored Yalta house where Anton Chekhov, a doctor and the world’s second greatest dramatist, was exiled from Moscow by tuberculosis. As he struggled in this lovely villa, with a fine garden and fresh air, to complete plays filled with people longing for Moscow, he shared their melancholy. His wife, the actress Olga Knipper, was playing the roles he created in the theatre he loved and longed to visit. His decision to attend the premieres of Three Sisters and The Cherry Orchard, his last works, may have hastened his death. Perhaps his Yalta garden was where he conceived the great political speech of the student Trofimov in The Cherry Orchard, prefiguring the Russian Revolution: “All Russia is our orchard …

Words by Stephen Phillips

Tresco isles of scilly

Stepping ashore at Tresco on a sunny late May afternoon, you might be forgiven for thinking you have just arrived at an unusually sleepy Mediterranean isle. The tall palm fronds that brush the sky in the distance add to the illusion, but no, this is England, albeit close to its most southerly point in the Isles of Scilly off the Cornish coast. The palms belong to Tresco’s subtropical Abbey Garden and we have arrived here by Zodiac, an inflatable landing craft that is more comfortable and seaworthy than one might first think. We have not travelled far: anchored in the sound between Tresco and St Mary’s, Scilly’s main island, is MS Island Sky, the ship that brought us here from Portsmouth. The Zodiac was the means of getting ashore on an island that has no harbour. This is, after all, what expedition cruising is all about.

Few would deny they enjoy some degree of comfort in their travels, but many of us like a little adventure, too. Expedition cruising offers the best of both worlds and this Island Life cruise — 11 days starting in Portsmouth and ending at Leith in Scotland — was to give us a close-up examination of those places at the edge of the British Isles that we tend not to know much about. It would also provide the opportunity for some gentle exploration without needing to get our feet too wet.

MS Island Sky

MS lsland Sky is a fine small ship with a multinational crew of 75. Not too large and impersonal, with about 100 passengers in 57 comfortable staterooms, she is the perfect size for visiting some of the British Isles’ more remote outposts. Where the ship could not get too close, a small fleet of Zodiacs stashed on deck came into their own, delivering us in batches of 10 onto numerous beaches, jetties and other inaccessible landing points.

Passengers on Zodiac

After an afternoon exploring the Abbey Garden, the Zodiacs took us back to the ship where we were welcomed with cool fruit juice and warm smiles. Comfort and attention to detail was the maxim: the cruise style of the Island Sky was relaxed, with informative briefings and guest lectures on local history, culture and wildlife the order of the day. For guests seeking post dinner entertainment there was the option of a nightcap in the lounge bar or a sunset promenade on deck.

Leaving Scilly’s calm waters behind, we sailed overnight to Ireland, rounding the green Kerry coastline to anchor off Knightstown, where Zodiacs took us ashore for a bus excursion to Waterville, once a favourite holiday spot for Charlie Chaplin — there’s a bronze statue in the village — and over the Coomakista Pass to Sneem, the “knot” in the Ring of Kerry. The next morning, we cruised past the 700-feethigh Cliffs of Moher before arriving at Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands, off the Galway coast. Starkly beautiful, with local characters as quirky as the island’s fissured limestone, this is classic Father Ted country. The karst landscape has been quilted into tiny fields separated by dry stone walls. Cleared from the land to create space for potatoes to grow, the stones have to go somewhere: this included forts, and Dun Aengus, an Iron Age pile of concentric walls atop Atlantic cliffs, was the most impressive of several ruins on Inishmore.

St Kilda

Even more remote was St Kilda. Cruising through the Sound of Barra to reach them, these islands lie far west of the main chain of the Outer Hebrides, 50 miles beyond the Isle of Harris. The islands of the St Kilda archipelago have an eerie beauty, but Hirta left the strongest impression. The only island of the group to be populated in modern times, it had a strong sense of ghosts: the village high street was a poignant row of roofless cottages, each one with a stone in the hearth that bore the name of its former occupant — Annie Gilles (“Queen of St Kilda”), Callum MacDonald (“Old Blind Callum”), Finlay Gilles. Behind the street, littering the hillside like dry stone igloos, stood dozens of the cleits once used for storing the seabirds that were a major part of the diet on this isolated outpost of Gaelic culture.

At St Kilda, the Zodiacs ferried us ashore to explore Hirta’s abandoned village before taking us on a shoreline tour of Dun, the adjoining island. Here, beneath craggy cliffs puffins splashed in the water while guillemots bunched together on rock ledges to impersonate dinner-jacketed waiters. Grey seals with gentle Labrador faces bobbed in the sea around us. Another Zodiac pulled alongside to serve us hot chocolate with rum. Given the sudden chilling rain squall that had just passed over, the timing was perfect. St Kilda lost the last remnants of its once 200-strong population in 1930. Despite a brief spell as a centre for Scottish tourism in the late 19th century, mass emigration, worsening economic conditions and high infant mortality resulted in Hirta’s dwindling population requesting evacuation from the island. The authorities obliged and provided the islanders with jobs in forestry on the mainland — a curious fate for people who thus far had spent their lives in a treeless environment.

Stac Lee, Scotland

Next we embarked on a tour of St Kilda’s other islands that lay five miles to the north, sailing around the near vertical rocks of Stac Lee and Stac an Armin that erupt from the sea like jagged alpine peaks. This group of islands, we were informed by our onboard ornithologist, was the second largest gannet colony in the world, a fact not hard to believe given the countless birds darkening the sky.

Sailing overnight by way of the Summer Isles, the following afternoon we made our only visit to the British mainland, although Loch Ewe in Wester Ross seemed almost as remote as some of the island communities we had seen. Mooring in the shelter of the loch, Zodiacs whisked us to Inverewe Gardens, a subtropical Eden established by Osgood Mackenzie in the mid 19^th century. Even with the moderating effect of the Gulf Stream, creating a subtropical garden in northwest Scotland requires ingenuity: the secret was to import topsoil from Ireland and plant a tree belt to shelter the gardens from the coast’s relentless Westerlies.

That night we cruised north along The Minch and around Cape Wrath towards Shetland, arriving at Lerwick, the islands’ capital, after breakfast next day. Buses were waiting to drive us south to Jarlshof, a prehistoric site that has seen over 5,000 years of continuous settlement. Shetland was once a Norwegian possession and the islands have a strong Norse character that is reflected in the buildings, place names like Jarlshof (‘Jarl’s house’) and even the local accent. The same is true, to a lesser extent, of the Orkneys, which we called in at the following day, docking at the fishing port of Stromness before visiting Kirkwall,

Skara Brae

Orkney’s capital, and the excavated village of Skara Brae, a turf-covered Neolithic Hobbiton. Orkney was our final port of call before the overnight sail to Leith, our disembarkation point. After a farewell cocktail reception, we gathered in the lounge for a slide show that looked back over the highlights of our cruise.

Entering the Firth of Forth on the final morning, we skirted close to the basalt monolith of Bass Rock, home to another huge gannet colony. Leith and Edinburgh were a short sail away, but the wheeling birds made it feel wild and remote. It was not until we passed beneath the cantilevered arches of the Forth Railway Bridge that the reality of our imminent return hit home. This had been a journey that would stick in the mind for years. Whoever thought that the British Isles were so beautiful, so bountiful and so big?

Words by Laurence Mitchell

Monday 12th December: AT SEA

Noon position: 00°16’N 17°57’W

MS Island Sky continued at sea, en route from Cape Verde to Ascension Island (a distance of 1,632 nautical miles).  It was another breezy but beautifully warm day at sea. For passengers, it began with lectures on seabirds, and on the flora of the islands ahead. Two large flocks of ‘Wideawakes’ (Sooty Terns) promised good things to come, but then the sealife went quiet. During a BBQ lunch, we awaited as the ship approached the Equator, and admired the famous red dotted line on the water as we sailed into the Southern Hemisphere at 13:24hrs and a position of 0°00’ 17°50’W. Shortly after, we were graced by the arrival of His Oceanic Majesty King Neptune and his beauteous Queen, who initiated the ‘slimy pollywogs’ amongst the passengers and passed the mackerel key to the oceans ahead to Captain Svensson. At about 17:50hrs, a distant splash of a breaching whale was spotted by some passengers, but the whale failed to oblige with further sightings.

On 25th October 2011, the Island Sky arrived in the bustling city of Heraklion, the fifth largest city in Greece. The forecast promised rain, so with umbrellas in hand we prepared for the worse as we headed to Knossos. To our delight the sky remained dry as we walked the wooden pathways through Sir Arthur Evans vision of this ancient palace complex. The fantastic ruins of the great King Minos were reconstructed in a modern style to help us tourists understand the labyrinthine complexity. The colours of the “Throne Room” are painted in rich hues of red and blue. We had an absolutely wonderful day.

Day 9, Anamur, Turkey

On 29 October 2011, the Island Sky arrived in the port of Anamur, Turkey. The Island Sky had the distinction of being the first cruise ship to anchor in this lovely harbour.  We used one of the local wooden boats to tender to shore, where we were treated like royalty as local dancers and musicians performed for us. The local newspaper came to take pictures and even had a welcome banner made for our arrival. The town’s people took more pictures of us then we did of them. The drive to Anemurium took us through the lush yet rugged foothills of the Taurus Mountains.

Anamur Turkey

This amazing settlement built against a hill overlooking a vivid blue sea, held an Acropolis, Necropolis and an amphitheatre. We were the only people there and felt very fortunate. Our next visit was to an early ottoman castle which was one of the most beautiful and best preserved fortresses in the Cilicia province.  Again we were the only people there, wow marvelous.

Leith, Scotland to Arkhangelsk, Russia – June 2011

Tuesday June 7th, 2011. Leith, Scotland – embarkation

After a car, train or plane journey to Edinburgh, we arrived at Island Sky, alongside in the harbour of Leith, towards the end of the afternoon. The Scottish weather was clear with rolling cumulus clouds under blue skies and sun was shining on our ship; shortly afterwards, though, a quick rain shower set in. We were welcomed onboard by the smiling hotel crew and expedition team and gathered in the main lounge for some refreshments – and also a bite to eat: the Island-Sky team was already putting us in the mood of the voyage and we would soon discover that we were not likely to starve on this ship!

We were shown to our cabins where our luggage awaited us, and settled in. The mandatory safety drill was then conducted for all guests and we were shown the muster stations and how to don a life jacket. Then we relaxed. As soon as the drill was over, Island Sky left its berth and proceeded to the locks of Leith. We joined the expedition team on the outer decks to watch this skilful and interesting sailing operation and, after a few minutes negotiating the locks, we were out in the Firth of Forth, heading north-east in the North Sea, towards the Shetland Islands.

Later in the afternoon, we gathered again in the main lounge for an introductory briefing session: Geraldine, our expedition leader, presented an overview of our voyage and gave us some information on the ship, and the expedition team introduced themselves: the naturalists Chris, Chris and Danny, the historians Peter, Stephen and Louis, and our assistant expedition leader Pam. The doctor also said hello. The introductions were followed by specific briefing on the operation of zodiac landing crafts onboard Island Sky. Soon, it was time to head upstairs to the bar for a drink and then downstairs to the dining room for our first dinner onboard.

Friday June 10th, 2011

Olden for Briksdal Glacier, Norway

Early this morning, Island Sky entered Nordfjord, one of the longest fjords of westernNorway. The early risers amongst us enjoyed the views of the mist-shrouded mountains and the ship silently made its way through the smooth waters of the fjord. After breakfast, we gathered in the main lounge to listen to Chris Harbard who gave us a presentation on the divers and buntings of the coasts of Norway and Russia. Meanwhile our Norwegian pilots sailed the ship all the way to the head of Nordfjord and the smallvillageofOldenwhich we reached by mid morning.

After lunch, we disembarked the ship and boarded our three coaches. The guides took us on a tour of Olden and the valley up to Briksdal Glacier. The weather was a little bit inclement but the clouds hanging over the lakes and fjords made the surroundings dramatic. The waterfalls were also at their fullest with mighty rivers cascading down to the main valley. When we reached the Briksdal Mountain Inn, some of us elected to join a train of Troll Cars for a ride up to the glacier front while the most adventurous of us took to the trail and enjoyed the views of more cascades and waterfalls.

At the summit of the trail, we reached the terminal lake of the Briksdal Glacier and the scenery was truly impressive and a great reward for our endeavours in the rain, with the glacier front hanging down from the steep walls of the Scandinavian Alps. The Briksdal Glacier has been peculiar in the past in that it has been advancing when other European glaciers were retreating. Now the Briksdal Glacier is also retreating and might one day become disconnected from the Jostedals Ice-cap which feeds it. The green lake at the foot of the glacier, full of glacial silt, was also spectacular.

After taking in the scenery, we retreated on our footsteps and gathered at the Briksdal Mountain Inn for some well deserved tea, coffee and cakes, and then onto our coaches for the drive back to the fjord, Olden and the ship.

Sunday June 12th, 2011

Torghatten & Arctic Circle & Svartisen, Norway

Overnight, the skies cleared and the sun, which barely disappeared during the night as we near the Arctic Polar Circle, appeared in all its glory over the Scandinavian Alps behind thin bands of cirrus clouds. Island Sky continued to steam northward through the area known as Nordland Channel, reportedly one of the world’s best cruising, the skerries and myriad islands of Norway forming a broad belt protecting the waters of the channel from the Atlantic gales and swells on the port side, and the mainland on the starboard side. During breakfast, our ship arrived off the island of Torget where our officers and Norwegian pilots anchored.

As soon as breakfast was over, Geraldine had four zodiacs put in the water and proceeded with a smooth first disembarkation by zodiac to Torghatten: our drivers took us ashore to a rocky beach just below the hat-shaped mountain. Just south of Bronnoysund, Torghatten is a mountain (part of theTrollMountain) with a large hole across it.  Once ashore, the naturalists of the expedition team led a walk up to the window. From there we enjoyed magnificent views over the inside passage of Norway’ Nordland County and the surrounding islands, as well as across to the snow-capped Scandinavian Alps in the distance.

By late afternoon, we were approaching the latitude of the Arctic Polar Circle. On the port-side of the ship, we passed an island featuring a monument marking the approximate location of the line and our Norwegian pilots offered us a circumnavigation of this little island. A few minutes later Island Sky sailed across the actual latitude of the Arctic Polar Circle at 66°33’N. We gathered on the lido deck for a bit of a celebration with a local Norwegian cocktail served by our hotel team. Then Geraldine gave us a few hints as to what to expect this evening and a briefing on our activities for tomorrow.

After dinner, the awaited surprise happened. Island Sky had sailed into yet another fjord, up to a valley where the Svartisen Glacier reaches down to (almost) sea level. The weather conditions were perfect, the low light of the everlasting sunset (so close to the solstice and already north of the Arctic Circle, the sun would set for only minutes tonight) casting pink colours on the glacier tongue flowing down the Scandinavian Alps towards theAtlantic Ocean. The Svartisen Ice-cap is a fairly significant glacier of central Norwayand we were seeing one of its tongues.

Three zodiacs were put in the water and soon we were on our way, a short drive to a floating pontoon, and then a nice, gentle walk through the forest to a viewpoint across the terminal lake of the glacier. Waffles and coffees were ready for us at the inn and, while most of us enjoyed a leisurely after-dinner drink, the more adventurous continued on a long walk, with the naturalists of the expedition team, towards the glacier front. As we retreated our steps towards the end of the evening and returned to the ship, we had had a magnificent day on the coast of Norway with two great landings and walks, and the crossing of the Arctic Circle.

Tuesday June 14th, 2011

Tromsø, Norway

Once again, the sun remained in the sky all night and, today, it was brilliantly shining over the fjords of northernNorwayas Island Sky approached theportofTromsø, the largest city ofArctic Norway. Most of the city is located on Tromsøya, an island connected to the mainland by bridge and tunnel. The city centre contains the highest number of old wooden houses inNorwayand the Arctic Cathedral, built in 1965, is probably its prominent feature. Soon after breakfast, Island Sky came alongside, right in the centre of the city, at a brand new quay and, since we were the first ship to dock there, a special ceremony was held.

First we enjoyed a stop in the botanical gardens of Tromsø where many Arcticand tundra plants and flowers are collected. The colours were magnificent with many plants in full bloom. Tromsø features in a forefront position in the history of the Arctic and, after passing a statue of Roald Amundsen (who set off from Tromsø to disappear at sea on June 18^th, 1928 while trying to rescue Umberto Nobile), we visited the polar museum which contains accounts of the expeditions of Willem Barents, Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen, amongst others, as well as explanations on the sealing industry in Norway. We then continued on, across the bridge to the mainland part of the city, for a visit to the Arctic Cathedral, probably the most emblematicmonument of Tromsø.

Readers of The Sunday Times Travel Magazine voted in their thousands to reward the hotels, airlines, spas, websites, destinations and travel companies they rated most highly, with more than 300 potential winners nominated across 27 categories. The three most popular choices in each category received their awards at the ceremony, with the 27 category winners taking home some of the most highly-coveted trophies in the travel industry.

Presenting the awards, Sunday Times Travel Magazine editor, Ed Grenby, said: “Our readers are well-travelled, worldly, extremely knowledgeable (and, without exception, very good-looking). They are exactly the kind of people from whom you’d like to receive an award — so my hearty congratulations to all our winners and runners-up.”

On 4th October 2011, the Island Sky arrived in the port of Trabzon, Turkey, where we had the privilege to visit the spectacular Sumela Monastery, situated on the face of a mountain some 1200 metres above sea level. Although it was tough going to manage the uneven ground, tree roots and wobbly steps at times, our passengers managed to make it to the top and it was sure worth the effort, as you can see from the photos. It was a clear and sunny day and we were fortunate that weather played along to have the most wonderful day!

Trabzon Sumela Monastery

Black Sea Odyssey Day 9: Odessa, Ukraine. 

The Island Sky arrived in a rather wet and overcast Odessa, but this didn’t dampen the spirits of the passengers, as we had the opportunity to visit the beautiful Odessa Opera House! After visiting the monument erected for the ‘Unknown Soldiers’ and a stroll down the promenade,we made our way to the Opera House, where we were pleasantly surprised with the opulence of this world renowned structure. The passengers also saw the Uspensky Cathedral and we were treated to hymns sung by a local choir.

Odessa Opera House

Odessa Opera House

Odessa Opera House

Island Sky

Next year promises to be quite a year for Noble Caledonia. To begin with, the line will be celebrating its 20th anniversary. It will also mark the maiden cruises of the MS Caledonian Sky. Formerly known as Hebridean Spirit, she will begin her new life with Noble Caledonia in May.

For the summer she will be joining her sister vessel the MS Island Sky (see Review below) on a series of cruises around the British Isles and Ireland before venturing north to circumnavigate Ireland. She will continue to Norway, sailing along the breathtakingly beautiful fjord coastline to Tromsø within the Arctic Circle. Before returning to the UK, she will undertake a cruise beyond the North Cape to Russia’s little-known White Sea, where the highlight of the trip will be the remote Solovetsky Islands.

Caledonian Sky accommodates a maximum of 114 passengers in 57 outside suites. Many have walk-in wardrobes and some feature tub baths. There will be seven categories of suite and 16 suites will have private balconies.

Noble Caledonia is well-known for its well-run ships with a warm atmosphere – indeed, readers voted it the Favourite Small Cruise Line in this year’s Telegraph Travel Awards.

In 2012 the MS Caledonian Sky will make her maiden voyage to the South Seas, undertaking an epic voyage from Easter Island to Fiji, and celebrating Christmas 2012 on Pitcairn Island.

The next cruise will be around the coast of New Zealand. Noble Caledonia not only offers far-flung cruises, but also a wide selection of river voyages, including journeys along the major rivers of Europe, Russia and China. For the more adventurous there are also expedition cruises.

Sue Bryant Reviews MS Island Sky

First impressions

A voyage on Noble Caledonia’s 4,200-ton Island Sky is as far removed from the traditional concept of big ship cruising as it’s possible to get. Imagine a sleek little ship like a gentleman’s yacht, all brass and polished wood inside, with a cosy bar where the bartender knows how many slices of lime you prefer in your G&T. With only 114 guests the ship exudes a real country house atmosphere. Wine with dinner, excursions and tips are included.

Cabin

Marco Polo Suite

The 57 suites on Island Sky are a joy, adorned with sumptuous fabrics and polished wood. Mine was done out in subtle shades of green and gold, with a stone-lined bathroom and a huge, walk-in shower. Only 12 have balconies but there’s so much space inside, and so much deck space, that I didn’t miss a balcony at all.

9/10

Bars and restaurants

Days begin with cooked breakfast on deck. We were usually ashore for lunch but back on board, everybody tucked into a decadent afternoon tea with gusto; there was a different type of scone every day. Some days brought special treats; the chef whipped up a cinnamon and rum concoction of Bananas Foster on deck as we transited the Suez Canal, while on another occasion, we tucked into Crepes Suzettes as the anchor was hauled in the late afternoon. The food is exceptional: honey-glazed duck, or spiced samosas with palm heart salad, or fresh fish scored by the chef in the local market that day. There’s one bar,The Club, with piano music and dancing.

9/10

Activities

There aren’t many activities on board as most people are ashore all day on tours. Noble Caledonia does, however, carry guest speakers with every cruise and there was an excellent lecture every night before dinner. The ship has a pretty library, with board games, two internet terminals, and a sun deck with hot tub.

8/10 

Shore Excursions

Shore excursions on Island Sky are included in the price and were excellent. We’d often be out for the whole day with lunch at a restaurant included, a welcome chance to sample the local cuisine.

9/10

Service

The Bar

Without exception, the crewmembers provided an amazing service, from the bartenders to my cabin steward. The maitre d’ did a spectacular job match-matching people with suitable tablemates. Even the welcome back on board every day was thoughtful. We’d be greeted with a different refreshment every time we returned from a tour; fresh orange juice on a hot day and hot, spiced apple tea on a cold day. There were more than a few damp eyes among the guests as the whole crew lined up on the quayside to wave us off on the last day.

10/10

TOTAL: 90%

A Successful End to the Year for Noble Caledonia

After an eventful year which has seen Noble Caledonia celebrate its 20^th anniversary and acquire a new ship, the Caledonian Sky (formerly Hebridean Spirit), the company are now celebrating after recently receiving two awards – ‘Favourite Small Cruise Line’ in the 2011 Telegraph Travel Awards and ‘Best Shore Excursions’ in the 2011 Cruise Critics Awards.

Earlier this year the Telegraph polled 23,000 readers about their favourite travel companies and the winning companies were awarded at a ceremony last month. Telegraph Travel Editor, Graham Boynton, announced that ‘Noble Caledonia’s small ships with their stylish décor and educational cruising make Noble Caledonia a winner with discerning travellers – people who want to visit new places in the company of others with similar interests, be they history, culture, bird watching or music’.

The winners of the Cruise Critic Awards were selected by their team of editors, headed up by Editor in Chief, Carolyn Spencer Brown. With 25 different categories, a wide range of cruise companies were considered. Cruise Critic said of Noble Caledonia’s Best Shore Excursions award: ‘A cruise on Noble Caledonia’s boutique ship, Island Sky, includes virtually all shore excursions, and, in many cases, offers a choice. Tours are intelligently delivered, often including superb lunch in a local restaurant, and in the many unusual destinations visited by the ship, present an immersive and seamless introduction to the local culture.’

Noble Caledonia continues to widen their offering, with their small ship itineraries visiting every continent and their river cruises exploring 22 of the world’s waterways.

Day 1- Monday 7^th November

We flew from London Gatwick to Luxor with Monarch Airlines at 10.10, arriving into Luxor at 17.30. We met our Tour manager & Guest Speaker at the airport, check in & flight all ok, lovely breakfast served on in-flight.

Arrived into Luxor, Visa is issued on arrival – very quick and straight forward. Guide met us on arrival in Luxor and transferred us straight to the ship (about 25 mins transfer time). Arrived around 18.45, keys were distributed to guests and luggage was taken to our rooms for us. Our delicious buffet style dinner was served at 20.00. Ship set sail to Esna for an over night Mooring.

Day 2-Tuesday 8^th November

Ship sailed to Edfu, buffet breakfast was served this morning from 08-09.30. After breakfast we had a welcome meeting at 09.30, this was really helpful, the guides went over the itinerary for the week. We were then spilt into 2 groups (we stayed in these groups all week) and briefed about the excursions. We were also given a chance at this point to book onto the optional shore excursions that are only offered onboard as they are booked locally with the guides; we had the choice of either a bird watching tour or a hot air balloon ride over the west Bank in Luxor.

Lunch was served at 13.00, we arrived into Edfu about 13.30, at 14.15 we were taken by horse and carriage (2 to a carriage) to the Temple of Horus, the horse and Carriage ride was aprox 15-20 mins. The temple itself was quite amazing, very large. We we went in our separate groups for our guided tour; both guides were so knowledgeable and were very good at answering questions/queries, their English was also very well spoken. We stayed with the guides for an hour then were given free time for 45 mins, there were toilets and a café near the entrance. There is a fair bit of walking at the temples, but everyone managed to keep up and walked at their own pace.

We met back at 16.15 and again went back to the ship by horse and carriage, tea was served on the sun deck, it was so lovely to watch the sunset. At 1700 we set sail to Komombo and at 17.30 Tracey, our Guest Speaker onboard gave a lecture on the ‘Travelers in an ancient land’, very interesting talk. At 19.30 we had the managers cocktail and staff presentation, the staff onboard introduced themselves to everyone and was a set menu Gala dinner (very tasty). Arrived into Komombo at Midnight and moored overnight.

Day 3-Wednesday 9^th November

Early start this morning, we had a wake up call at 06.00. Breakfast was served between 06-0700; lots of choice – from cooked breakfast to cereals, croissants, yoghurt, tea, coffees, fresh juice and so on.

We got off the ship at 07.00 to visit the temple of Sobek, we walked to the temple – very short walk as we had moored right next to the temple itself! Again very impressive, guides were very good at explaining about the history and the Gods/Egyptian and Greek rules. We spent about hour and half here, the had half an hour of leisure time. There were lots of locals around selling goods and all very friendly.

We were back onboard by 08.30 and set sail to Aswan, guests had free time at leisure whilst sailing and lunch was served at 12.30, lunches were always buffet style;  salads, hot & cold foods, meats and so on. The staff in the restaurant were also brilliant at catering for any special requests; they even remembered all of the vegetarian guests onboard and always cooked separately for them.

Felucca Ride to the Botanical Gardens

The afternoon we visited the Botanical Gardens, we went by a Felucca over to the island of Kitchener Island, this was a great experience and really fun –  everyone enjoyed this! We spent about an hour at the gardens before being taken on a motor boat around the different islands, again everyone loved this, it was good opportunity to get to know one another. We arrived back to the ship at 16.50 where Tracey gave a lecturer on ‘Dams & Temples’. Tonight was a Fez Tarboush night and dinner was served at 19.30. We enjoyed amazing local Egyptian food – there was so much but everyone enjoyed and said how great it was! Moored overnight in Aswan.

Day 4- Thursday 10^th November

Philae Temple

Another early start this morning, everyone had a wake up call at 06.15, breakfast was served between 0615-07.15. We were collected by coach and stayed in our 2 separate groups. We were transferred to the Philae Temple (transfer time about 25-30 mins). We drove down to the dock and then on to the Philae temple by a motor boat – again everyone loved going on the motor boat (about 10 min boat ride).

It was very busy at the Philae Temple, that’s why its very important to go early. This is the temple dedicated to the goddess Isis who is the wife of Osiris and mother of Horus. We spent about an hour at the here, about 30 mins with the guides and 30 mins free time, there were a few shops and stalls around to buy souvenirs. When we come back to take the motor boat back to the dock flocks of tourists were arriving, so our guides were very pleased that we went early

Me at the Dam!

After this we went taken to a perfumery, this was about a 10-15 min drive from the dock of Philae Temple, it was very interesting as they showed us how perfume is made and everyone got to test lots of different oils and perfumes. We then moved to visit the high Dam, we had a quick stop for photos and then returned to the ship for lunch at 12.30. We had the afternoon free at leisure and at 15.15 I went on an optional bird watching trip on a motorboat; it was lovely as we watched another beautiful sun set.

Dinner was served at 1900 tonight. Following dinner, the guests that had booked onto the optional shore excursion to the Sound and Light Show left the vessel. I didn’t go to the show but the other passengers said it was wonderful to watch and see the Philae temple at night time.

Abu Simbel

Day 5-Friday 11th November

Today we were up and out by 5.00am, (this was for the guests that had booked the Optional excursion to Abul Simbel), it was quite a long coach journey – 3  hours there and 3 hours back, but was well worth the drive. Abul Simbel was amazing to see and I’m pleased I went along to see it. We spent a little time with the guide and then were given free time for about an hour and half, there were quite a few shops and stalls and a large café to grab a tea or coffee. Although the drive was quite long, it was a very sceanic route and we were allowed to take the pillows from the ship for comfort on the coach. The coach was air conditioned and had a toliet.

Gill (our Tour manager) & I dressed up for the Galabia Night

We arrived back to the ship around 14.30 and had lunch as soon as we arrived. Tonight’s dinner was a Galabya night; everyone was asked to dress in local Egyptian clothers or Galabyas. Everybody made a real effort, and everyone looked really good. The staff onboard put on a really good show before dinner and there was lots of dancing and music, dinner was served at 2000, then after dinner we did a quiz in the lounge area, this was a really great night.

Luxor Temple at night

Day 6 Saturday 12 November

We had this morning at leisure; breakfast was served from 08-0900 and at 10.00 we were given the chance to look around the engine room and Galley as lots of people had requested this during the week. At 10.45 we were given a talk by our 2 guides on modern Egypt, this was really interesting as they both gave different very views. Lunch was served at 12, and at 13.15 we left the ship to visit the Luxor museum. We spent about an hour at the museum, then moved on to the Karnak Temple; this was one of the largest temples (it took around 2000 years to build!) and has yet to be completed. We spent about 2 hours at the Karnak temple and arrived back to the vessel about 1700, where Tracey, our lovely guest speaker did a great talk on ‘medicine, make up and mummies’. This was a really interesting talk, dinner was served at 19.30.

Day 7-Sunday 13th November

Today was my favourite day (even though we had an early wake up call at 05.45!), breakfast was served between 05.45-06.45. We were then taken on a 40 min drive to the valley of the Kings (this morning was also a chance for guests to take the optional hot air balloon ride – they left the ship very early at 04.00). We picked the guests that did the balloon ride on the way to the Valley of the Kings, they all said it was amazing and well worth the early start. I wish I had gone up on one now! We then made our way to the Valley of the Kings which was amazing to see – I’m so happy I got a chance to visit. It was very busy but the tombs are quite spread out so we didn’t notice how many people were actully there. We were lucky enough to go in 3 of the tombs which was fantastic and really are great to see, and so clever! There are 67 tombs in total, but only 9 of them were open. We spent about 2 hours there, then headed back to the ship around 11.20 where lunch was served for 12. The rest of the afternoon was spent at leisure, followed by a departure briefing. Dinner was served at 19.00, and after which we were very lucky to be taken to the Luxor temple for an evening tour where we were served cocktails and canapés. Noble Caledonia and VJV were the only groups allowed into the temple at this time It really was magicial to see the temple by night and all lit up. We spent an hour there and then headed back to the ship around 22.00 hours.

Day 8 Monday 14th Novemeber

Day of disembarkation. We were given free time in the morning or the optional shore excursion around the town of Luxor by horse & carriage. We were collected from the ship at 1500 and were taken back to the airport. We flew back with Monarch airlines and again all was fine.

Reflections

I really felt that this was a well organised, enjoyable cruise managed by great staff and it was so lovely to be around like minded travellers, superbly complemented by amazing excursions. The ship itself  is classy and comfortable, offering a high level of service and cuisine. The staff onboard are very friendly and couldn’t do enough for us, our two local guides on board were amazing and all of the guests had so much praise for them – they really made our week with their witty and charming personalities. I would recommend this trip to anyone, really was a cruise to remember.

The cruise was a package through Noble Caledonia flying to Budapest with a 7 night cruise through Hungary, Slovakia, Austria and Germany and finishing at Passau.  We flew out with Malev Hungarian airlines and returned by Air Berlin.  We had not flown with these airlines before but found both to be very good.  Representatives from Noble Caledonia met us at Budapest airport with two coaches waiting. We were transferred to Matya’s Pince Restaurant, a well known restaurant in central Budapest for lunch.  It was a fairly slow process serving us all lunch including another Noble Caledonia party that had arrived on an earlier plane.  It was a good lunch if rather heavy – goulash soup, chicken with rice and salad, followed by pancake.  We were wondering how we would manage dinner just a few hours later!  We then went on a short ride to a scenic point in Budapest in order to take some photographs but as lunch had been quite long, it was rather dark for taking any photographs although a beautiful view.

MS Johann Strauss

We were then taken to the MS Johann Strauss and we thought that boarding might be quite slow with two coach loads arriving together but it was very quick. Unlike sea cruises there was no paperwork to complete, no health forms to fill in, no credit card details taken!  We just handed in our passports and were immediately taken to our cabin. Very efficient. We were pleasantly surprised by the size and comfort of our cabin which had large patio windows and a French balcony opening up to the lovely river views.  Our cases were delivered straight away and we unpacked everything into the ample cupboards and drawers.

Tea was served at 5 pm in the lounge and some of our party even managed sandwiches and cake after our large lunch!  We were then given a talk by the Cruise Director, Cesar Perez, about life on board.  We found Cesar to be an excellent Cruise Director and the organisation on board and on tours was fantastic.  Soon it was time for ‘Happy Hour’ which actually lasted from 6.30 – 7.30 and then again from 9.00 – 11.00 pm so it was really ‘Happy 3 Hours”!  Prices for drinks on board were very good.  A gin and tonic was 5.90 euros but during ‘Happy Hour’ was 3.30 euros.  Wine was included with dinner, as were gratuities, so most people had very small bills to pay at the end of the cruise!

Meals

We found the meals on board to be very good. Breakfast was a good range of hot and cold dishes, including an ‘omelette man’ cooking eggs to order, a daily smoothie, fresh fruits, excellent rolls and croissants and so on. Lunch was 4 courses with a salad starter, soup, main course and dessert. Tea was served at about 4 pm. There was often a long queue for this with the line right across the lounge – it would be good if they could find a way to serve this so that it was a quicker process. Dinner was usually served at 7.30 pm and was single sitting with tables of 4 or 6. We were encouraged to sit in different tables meeting different guests. We would have quite liked there to have been an option of tables for 2 occasionally although we did meet some interesting people and made some good friends over the week. Dinner was at least 4 courses with special meals at the Welcome Dinner and Farewell Dinner. We found all the food to be excellent, well cooked and efficiently served. There is a small cafe area next to the lounge where there is the option for a light breakfast or lunch. There is always a late night snack although we never stayed up to try it!

Itinerary

The cruise was quite port/tour intensive, mostly with sailing during the night. Most of all we enjoyed the two afternoons of daytime sailing when we could relax and watch the lovely river views as we sailed along. We would have liked more relaxing sailing time. However, all the tours were brilliantly organised with fantastic knowledgeable local guides at every place. Altogether we were four coach loads but were broken up into smaller groups for the tours with earphones to hear the guides.

Budapest

Budapest at night

We embarked at Budapest on the Tuesday. In the evening we changed our dock which meant sailing through the city of Budapest all lit up in the evening. We all went up on deck and the beautiful buildings looked spectacular with all the lights. We didn’t leave Budapest until the Thursday so had plenty of time to explore this beautiful city with a city tour. All the buildings and the River Danube looked glorious in the sunshine with all the autumn colours. The next day we had a visit to Godollo Palace, the home of Emperor Franz Josef and his wife Elizabeth, which was fascinating. We had an excellent guide who made their story come alive.

Bratislava

On Friday morning we were in Bratislava in Slovakia which we found to be a delightful city where we had a fascinating walking tour.

Vienna

Vienna, Austria

On Saturday we were in Vienna. This was quite a busy day with a city tour in the morning and a “Great Composer’s Walk” in the afternoon, again with very good guides.

Durnstein and Melk

Sunday was probably our favourite day with a visit to a lovely little town called Durnstein. We awoke to find the sun shining through the trees through the early morning mist and we went up on deck to take photos of the lovely colours. After our Durnstein visit, we went on the coaches for some wine tasting which we enjoyed although as last year was not a good year for production, they had none to sell us. More autumn views in the afternoon with the coloured trees and vines reaching down to the river as we sailed through the very scenic Wachau Valley and finally a visit to the beautiful Benedictine Melk Abbey which really was magnificent. We walked back to the ship from the Abbey and had a lovely evening on board with a farewell drink with Captain Marko Bura and then a delicious farewell dinner including scallops and beef wellington or sea bass, followed by an ice parade (baked alaska) by the waiters and crew. The evening finished with a performance  of highlights from the Magic Flute by the London Festival Opera on board.

Linz/Salzburg

After such a busy day and a week that included a  lot of coaches and tours, on our last day  we opted out to spend the day on our own instead of having the full day out that had been arranged in Salzburg. We decided to explore Linz where we were docked and had a lovely relaxing day, giving ourselves a guided tour of the town and walking by the river, then the hot tub!.  About 30 of us enjoyed the ship to ourselves that day!  Great.

Music

I haven’t yet mentioned the music. The cruise was called “Mozart on the Danube” and we enjoyed fantastic music throughout. There were three optional performances on shore (Anna Karenina at Budapest and the Magic Flute or La Sylphide in Vienna) which we didn’t choose to attend but in several towns a quartet played for us. Best of all, on board we had members of the London Festival Opera who were just wonderful. They performed for us on three evenings and some of us were even lucky enough to enjoy Susanna Stranders, pianist, practising during the daytime. A highlight of the cruise for sure. Rodney Greenberg was also on board and he gave two lectures which were really interesting.

The Ship

We enjoyed the ship very much. Apart from the comfortable lounge area and restaurant, there is a small gym, a sauna and a hot tub which was lovely after a busy day touring! The top open deck was well equipped with chairs and sunbeds which would be great in the summer. We did find it fairly noisy when going through the locks at night.

On deck MS Johann Strauss

Gym & Sauna MS Johann Strauss

Disembarkation

On disembarkation, we had a three hour drive to Nuremburg where we were taken for lunch at Bratwurst and Roslein (German sausages!) and then a very interesting tour of the town. Then we were taken to the airport. Excellent organisation again.

… and in Summary

On our questionnaire, we were asked for suggestions. We couldn’t really think of anything that needed improving but our suggestions were:-  Wifi on board would be great. We thought it would be good to get to know the Officers and Noble Caledonia staff and we suggested they may like to join the passengers for meals sometimes. Also, we would have liked a bit more free time to do our own thing in ports and more sailing during the daytime.

So in summary we enjoyed an excellent cruise on the friendly and comfortable MS Johann Strauss with the added bonus of fantastic sunny skies, beautiful weather and glorious autumn colours everywhere we went. Noble Caledonia’s organisation at every port and on every tour was great and how they managed to get us all in the right place and on the right coach at the right time was amazing! Most of our fellow travellers were retired with a number of single guests and indeed it made an ideal holiday for the older traveller as everything was taken care of from airport to airport with such excellent organisation and all tours arranged, expertly guided and included in the price. From our experience, we would highly recommend Noble Caledonia and the MS Johann Strauss.

To find out more about Silver Travel Advisor’s fantastic monthly prizes, please visit http://www.silvertraveladvisor.com/

A cruise on Noble Caledonia’s boutique ship, Island Sky, includes virtually all shore excursions, and, in many cases, offers a choice. Tours are intelligently delivered, often including superb lunch in a local restaurant, and in the many unusual destinations visited by the ship, present an immersive and seamless introduction to the local culture.

Sacsayhuaman ruins, Cusco, Peru

One voyage from desert to rainforest is a revelation of the earth’s richness and diversity. In February, the MS Island Sky embarks on a voyage from central Peru to Costa Rica, from bone-dry desert landscapes to a realm of dense, exuberant greenery.

This is a journey of shades and juxtapositions; between energetic Spanish-colonial coastal towns and the pre-Columbian sites that surround them, choked cities, crystalline waters, heaving ports and forgotten fishermen’s islands. As the boat moves north, joining sweet ocean currents that seethe with marine life, the coastal terrain becomes steadily lusher.

Fly in to Lima, and you’re thrown in to the thick of it. This raucous, congested city is not the most beautiful in South America but if you peer through the pollution and traffic you’ll discover centuries-old catacombs, cavernous libraries, contemporary art spaces, bookshops and exhibition halls dripping with Moche ceramics and glittering Inca gold. Lima’s museums — particularly the remodelled Museo Larco — are the envy of South America. There’s good restaurant life here too. This stretch of Pacific coast has some of the best fishing in the world and the capital — packed with fish markets and cevicherias — puts it to excellent use. Don’t miss a meal at Rafael Osterling’s restaurant in Miraflores, where grilled giant scallops and passion fruit ceviche are highlights of the menu.

Machu Picchu, Peru

Most visitors shoot south out of Lima and head to the ultimate but over trodden Inca ruin of Machu Picchu. While a pre-cruise tour to this jungle city — rediscovered a century ago — can be arranged, Island Sky’s passage begins in the industrial port of Callao, then heads up to Peru’s much less visited northern coast.

Trujillo lies at the edge of Andean foothills. With a profusion of pastelpainted buildings, iron window grilles, Moorish balconies and baroque churches, it is one of the country’s finest examples of Spanish-colonial architecture. Just beyond the city perimeter, however, are many pre-Columbian sites, remnants of the centuries before the Spanish invasion.

The ancient capital of Chan Chan, three miles from Trujillo, was built by the Chimu people in about 850AD and survived until its conquest by the Incas in 1470. Today Chan Chan is an eerily silent place where sandy citadels, mud-brick palaces and mysterious motifs are all carved from desert rock, baking red under an empty sky.

Southeast of Trujillo, more than 700 years older than Chan Chan, are the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (Temples of the Sun and the Moon), built by the Moche civilisation in a dusty valley. Rising from the plain like a towering brown beast and made from 130m bricks, Huaca del Sol is the biggest adobe structure in the Americas.

As the Island Sky leaves shore again, heading north to Ecuador, the air thickens with moisture and the coastal terrain begins to change. Subtropical desert yields to shrubby savannah, and to grasses and mangrove forest. The northern coast of Peru has a curious tropical-dry climate and with every hour’s sailing, the landscape mutates.

Peruvian Pelican

Before crossing into Ecuadorian waters, the boat approaches the island of Lobos de Afuera, located off the coast of Peru’s Lambayeque region, a nesting place for blue-footed boobies, kelp gulls, petrels and slender-beaked Peruvian pelicans. There are no other organised tours to Lobos, so you’ll find it deserted and ripe for discovery.

Straddling the equator as its name suggests, Ecuador has a mostly tropical climate and in contrast to Peru its coastal lowlands can be hot and rainy. Machalilla National Park — situated on the juncture of the cold Humboldt and warm El Niño currents, making it a sanctuary for sea birds — feels moist, sticky and fertile. A million miles from the parched cityscapes of Lima and Trujillo, the park is thick with vegetation, with juicy kapok and palo santo trees forming canopies in the mossy cloud forest.

Leaving South America behind for Central America, the next port of call is the more rugged frontier-land of southern Costa Rica. This is one of the most biodiverse spots on the planet and because road travel hereabouts is notoriously difficult, gliding into its sea coves by boat is the best way to see crocodiles, monkeys and dripping forests. Cocos Island is a highlight. Said to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island, it was formed by the tip of an ancient volcanic mountain. High levels of rainfall give rise to threads of waterfalls and charging rivers, while white tipped reef sharks stalk pale, salty shallows. Cocos Island was once a base for whaling expeditions and rocks in Chatham Bay bear the scrawled names of long-forgotten seafarers.

Passage through the Panama Canal requires doubling back eastwards, dropping off first at the sparsely populated Darien province in southeast Panama, a remote place of majestic mountains, jaguars, eagles and native Indian tribes. Here, in swampland that remains the only missing link in the length of the Pan-American Highway, the crumbling, overgrown remains of a fort built to protect the Spanish empire’s Espiritu Santo gold mines, are now a haven for bird-watching.

The completion of the Panama Canal in 1914 had a profound effect on the trade and economy of the western hemisphere. The vital shipping link effectively split the continents in two and slashed the sailing time between the east and west coasts of the Americas. The transit remains an extraordinary experience, as the boat moves from open Pacific waters, through a system of vast locks and man-made lakes, into the Caribbean.

Once through the canal, the boat sails east to the San Blas archipelago, a network of nearly 400 sparsely populated tropical islands scattered across the Caribbean coast of Panama. There are few tourists here and the indigenous Kuna people, who gained self-rule from Panama in the 1920s, have held on to their ancient ways. Women stitch colourful mola cloths outside rudimentary bamboo huts, while men gather fruit and fish from traditional cayuco canoes.

Skirting the north coast of Columbia, the Island Sky drifts along the coast of Venezuela, exploring isolated Los Roques and Los Testigos islands. At Bonaire, a tiny, cactus-strewn municipality of the Netherlands, lazy iguanas sun themselves on desert rocks and flamingos drift across bone-white salt flats. Kralendijk, the main town, has brightly painted Dutch-colonial buildings and steel bands playing on a breezy seafront.

In the final section of her passage, the Island Sky cruises through some of the more populous but no less beautiful islands of the Caribbean. This is an opportunity to while away a rum-soaked day or two listening to reggae bands, browsing local markets and feasting on seafood. In Barbados, stop at the family-run Frangipani Hotel for a last rum punch in the beach-side bar overlooking the still, inky sea

Words by Flora King

Rocky Mountain the Falkland Islands

There’s something terribly British about our ever increasing interest in the Falkland Islands. It’s not just that this faraway archipelago, perched 350 miles off the east coast of South America, shares our sovereign. Nor is it simply that we so admire the resolve of those 3,000 or so inhabitants who live on this windswept outpost. It must surely also be because within us all there’s a trace of the explorer, writes Wendy Gomersall.

The Falklands, comprising two main islands and hundreds of small outlying ones, and South Georgia, 860 miles to the east and also a UK overseas territory, have clean, fresh air and spectacular scenery, the kind of raw, unspoilt territory upon which tourism has thus far failed to leave footprints of any great number or significance. There are remote snowy peaks as beautiful admired from a distance as close up on a serious hike, rugged beaches dusted with bone-white sand and sweeping moors studded with yellow gorse and tussock grass. There’s amazing wildlife, too: from the decks of a cruise ship, you might at any moment spot minke whales or orcas, dolphins and porpoises. Lolling on the smaller islands, there may be fur seals, sea lions and hefty elephant seals. There are seabirds by the million: albatrosses and cormorants, oystercatchers, falcons and red-backed buzzards.

Rockhopper penguin

Famously, there are penguins of all shapes and sizes, too. There’s the rockhopper with cute feathery tufts like big eyelashes, and magnificent king penguins that weigh up to 16kg. Sit patiently on the sand and they will plod closer, so unused are they to human contact. Adventure cruises use Zodiacs to get their passengers into countless interesting nooks and crannies.

An equally big draw is the story of the Falklands War of 1982. Sites associated with the conflict, such as Goose Green and Pebble Island, are key attractions. Argentina’s repelled invasion of “Islas Malvinas’” resulted in more British people going to the islands. Most of the Falkland Islands’ population live in the capital, Port Stanley. Unsurprisingly, it is rather reminiscent of a small British town, with its museum, churches, shops, pubs and fish-and-chip shop.

Grytviken, South Georgia

South Georgia, whose natural wonders including glaciers and snow-dusted mountains and sheer granite rocks slicing up out of the water, has historic sites to see. Grytviken, a historic whaling station, has a museum dedicated to the industry that flourished between 1904 and 1964. Ernest Shackleton is buried in the station’s small cemetery. It’s said that his grave faces towards Antarctica because that was where his widow felt his heart belonged

Captain Svensson

Captain TorbjÖrn Svensson Master Island Sky; an interview with Steve Newman. 

Do you come from a seafaring background?

In a way. My father was an artist and writer who loved islands and the sea. As a family we sailed around the Stockholm Archipelago on Folk Boats and there is no doubt I inherited my father’s love of the sea. At 17 I was bored of school and a career at sea just came naturally to me.

Where did you train?

At Stockholm Nautical College, I left with my Master Mariner examination and graduated as a Deck officer in 1974, I was a Master Mariner Captain when I was just 22.

How did your early career develop?

I first went to sea professionally as a deck boy for the Johnson line sailing and the  BrostrÖm company, and in the domestic shipping service in the archipelago. After College for a time I worked on reefer ships then I got the idea about cruising with people  As a young man I bought an old steamer the SaltsjÖn, she was 40 metres long and could carry 300 people. From those small beginnings I became a self employed captain and shipowner.

I initiated the rebuilding of the well-known “Linblad Polaris” and my company also for sometime operated the legendary “Lindblad Explorer.” I also have a restaurant in Stockholm. I fell in love with expedition cruising and my last ship before Island Sky was Clipper Adventurer which I left in 2009.

What is this ship like to serve on?

Very nice! We have 71 crew on board who are mostly Philippino seamen as well as the expedition staff who work with the one hundred guests. The crew work usually on a 7-8 month contract whilst Senior Staff work two and a half months on and off. My First Officer is Swedish and my Chief Engineer is Ukrainian whilst both the Cruise Director and Hotel Manager are South African. I brought both my engineers from my previous ship with me. I simply love expedition cruising especially the interaction between the nautical and hotel elements. It’s fair to say I would never go back to cargo shipping.

What specialist knowledge do you need for working on this ship?

You need a flexibility to be one step ahead of the guests.  I tell all of my crew that we do not have passengers on board but guests. I try to install this in all of them from the hotel staff to the engine room.  In the expedition cruise sector you need not to be just an excellent seaman but a diplomat and an entertainer. We have an open bridge policy during daylight hours and when not involved in manoeuvring so I can be talking to passengers one minute and involved in docking or leaving port the next.

How does poor weather affect you?

We react to bad weather by rerouting to avoid it and thus I have to think on my feet if we have to say to the guests, sorry but you can’t go to A now but we have B which you will find just as, if not more interesting. Expedition cruising is all about getting the guests ashore in zodiacs and if we have to cross bad conditions to get to somewhere like St Kilda and when we get there we can’t land, there is simply no point in going. Most of our guests are seasoned expedition cruisers and they understand this.

Sometimes when we reach a destination the swell has become too big to safely launch the zodiacs at a designated landing spot so we have to find another spot that will be safe or abandon the landing.

What has been your most difficult experience at sea?

Without doubt sailing in Antarctica. There is a tremendous amount of pressure on you with the rapid changes of weather and you really have to adjust quickly. As I said before I love expedition cruising but the Antarctic can be a challenge if you’re not careful.  It’s very ‘interesting’ but I would not like to do a full season down there.

What is the most useful innovation you have seen introduced in your time at sea?

Communications and such items as GPS and AIS. We do have a sextant on board and we can use it if needs be but really the technological advances have been phenomenal. The fact that I can pick up a telephone and find our exact position and talk to anyone anywhere in the world is so useful.

Also to be able to ascertain one’s position with accuracy when out of sight or radar range of land is a revolution. All in all, shipping has become much safer in recent decades and years.

Pitcairn Island

Nine of the most famous mutineers in naval history landed on uninhabited Pitcairn Island in 1790. By 1808 only one remained. So what happened to Fletcher Christian and the Pitcairn Bounty Mutineers?

It must have been a surprise when the American trading ship Topaz spotted Pitcairn Island while sailing in the Pacific Ocean in February 1808. The first surprise was seeing land at all – many maps of the area had misplaced the location of the island. The second surprise was the ‘demographics’ of the island’s tiny population – one middle-aged bible-reading Englishman, nine Tahitian women and a small number of children.

The Topaz’s crew must also have wondered how these people arrived on the small island – there was no sign of a boat or a ship anywhere near its shores. They must have had plenty to talk about as they set sail again after ten hours on dry land – they had just encountered a man the British Navy had been keen to get their hands on for almost 20 years.

Pitcairn was inhabited in 1808 because of a mutiny which had occurred on board the British Royal Navy ship HMS Bounty on the night of 28^th April 1789.

Fletcher Christian and 18 mutineers had set commanding officer William Bligh and 18 of his loyal crew afloat in a small launch boat. Christian and his band of mutineers then turned the Bounty around and headed to Tahiti – an island whose idyllic style of life the crew had sampled recently while collecting breadfruit to take to the West Indies.

Christian’s return to Tahiti would be brief – he stayed just long enough to offload ten of the crew on the island before setting sail again. Among his hand-picked skeleton crew on board the Bounty were eight other crewmen, six Tahitian men and 11 Tahitian women, one of whom went on board with a baby in her arms. The uneven gender mix of the mutineers’ break-off group is noticeable. Christian’s motivation for this is unclear as is the willingness of the Tahitians to leave their island home. The 1984 film Mutiny on the Bounty plausibly portrays Christian’s wife Mauatua being granted permission by Tahiti’s King Tynah to decide whether she wants to accompany the leader of the mutineers as he departed on the Bounty. However, some accounts suggest that the Tahitians were simply kidnapped.

On 15^th January 1790, Bounty’s rag-tag band of sailors and Tahitians spied the outline of Pitcairn Island. Christian was looking for a place where the mutineers wouldn’t be discovered by a vengeful Royal Navy and Pitcairn fitted the bill perfectly – it hadn’t properly been discovered by Britain as it was misplaced on Royal Naval maps of the area.

After the livestock and provisions were carried to shore from the Bounty, the ship’s purpose was served; it was burned to further the mutineer community’s hopes of avoiding detection – a clear indication that Christian was grimly resigned to living out the remainder of his life on Pitcairn. He was just 25 at the time.

Life on Pitcairn began as brightly as life on The Bounty had done when she set sail three eventful years earlier. The temperate climate and ample food and water made many of the castaways wonder why Pitcairn hadn’t been inhabited when they arrived there. The fact that they had no means of leaving the island seemed to focus the Pitcairn community’s minds – soon a number of children were born.

However, troubles lay ahead. Whereas, the disciplinarian rule of Captain Bligh had caused the Bounty’s crew to mutiny, it was the fair-minded rule of Fletcher Christian which led to divisions among the early Pitcairn settlers. Christian had wanted the Tahitians to have an equal say in the running of the island; an idea which was welcomed by the Polynesians who soon saw island democracy as a right rather than a privilege. Some of the Brits were less willing to share land, resources and power. Their five-month stay on Tahiti under the command of Captain Bligh had perhaps made them see the Tahitians a little like hospitable hotel workers – seeing them as equals was not something they were prepared to do. The egalitarian power structure of the island was exposed as a sham when Jack William’s wife died and he marked the end of his mourning with perhaps indecent haste by beginning a relationship with one of the Tahitian men’s partners.

None of the six Tahitian men were willing to countenance this British cuckolding and open conflict broke out in 1793.  All of the Tahitians perished in the fighting and so too did four Britons, including widower Jack Williams and Fletcher Christian. Ned Young and John Adams stepped into the breach to become leaders of the depleted community, which by now included Fletcher Christian’s infant son, Thursday October Christian.

Yet it was another mutineer, William McCoy, who had the most influence on the post-Christian Pitcairn. McCoy started to brew alcoholic moonshine from a native plant – a heady brew which made many of the mutineers forget their fears of capture but also made them forget all civility to the long-suffering Pitcairn women.

As the surviving men folk turned to alcohol, Young and Adams turned to the Bible. McCoy’s death by a drunken fall summed up the negative impact his makeshift brewery had on the island’s fortunes; one of his drinking partners, Matthew Quintal, had to be killed by Young and Adams after threatening to kill everyone.

John Adams, by this time, had become no stranger to acts of violence. Yet, it was more out of necessity than choice as accounts of his life paint a picture of a kind, tolerant man. It was fortunate then that he assumed control of the island after Young died of natural causes in 1800. Earlier leaders had threatened to hang the Pitcairn women who regularly rebelled in protest against the men’s drinking. These somewhat empty threats – Pitcairn’s dwindling adult population could hardly survive further losses – were now replaced by Adams’ benevolent leadership.

The drinking schools and Kangaroo courts were replaced by the new ‘island chief’s’ Sunday Schools which taught the Christian religion to the settlement. Had the ship which briefly circled Pitcairn in 1795 attempted to communicate with the settlement they would have found a community in disarray.

Fourteen years later, the crew of the American ship Topaz, which visited the island in 1808, found no trace of the leadership disputes which had bedevilled Pitcairn. The non-aggressive Adams had no leadership rivals – by now he was the only adult male still alive on Pitcairn and lived peacefully alongside nine women and a number of children. He lived long enough to be granted amnesty for his part in the mutiny. Today, the capital of Pitcairn, Adamstown, is named after its most distinguished – if not its most famous – founding settler.

The fate of Captain Bligh

And what of the man whose authoritarian style of leadership provoked the Bounty mutiny? Captain William Bligh guided the Bounty’s over-crowded launch boat to safety without a compass or fire-arms after she was set adrift on a fateful night in April 1789. By doing so he showed leadership skills not obviously apparent to the men who had expelled him from the ship he commanded. Bligh was allowed to resume his duties as captain when he returned to England to report the mutiny. Yet it was not to be his last brush with insubordination.

On 26^th January 1808, the month before Pitcairn’s last surviving mutineer met the crew of the Topaz, Bligh, by then Governor of New South Wales in Australia, faced another challenge to his leadership when he was arrested by troops in an incident known as the Rum Rebellion.

Was this an unlucky case of history repeating itself? Was it another sign that Bligh had a leadership style which either attracted loyalty or hate from the men who served under him? These are questions that British naval historians will never stop debating.

Peter Paul Fortress, St Petersburg

St Petersburg is, for most passengers, the highlight of a Noble Caledonia cruise in the Baltic. It’s romantic, historic, stupendously beautiful yet with a lingering memory of death. It was built by Peter the Great on marshland, and 40,000 people are said to have died in its construction. The Siege of Leningrad, which lasted nearly three years from 1941 to 1944, killed a quarter of the population, as the rest survived on dogs, cats, rats, roots and even wallpaper paste. When the Germans were finally defeated they left large parts of the city in ruins – Hitler had vowed to obliterate it from the face of the earth – but an enormous and remarkable feat of restoration now sees most of the finest palaces and galleries looking as glorious as they ever did.

Of course this came at a price. On our cruise aboard the Island Sky, the lecturer and antiques expert Nicholas Merchant, while describing the breathtaking jewellery and artefacts commissioned and owned by the Tsars, showed us a slide of a peasant, a serf, shackled to his wheelbarrow. The fabulous wealth that we see was acquired at a terrible price for millions. No wonder there was a revolution; the tragedy for the Russian people was that one despotism was replaced by another, in many ways worse.

One of the many joys of our visit was hearing people tell anti-Soviet jokes, of which our guide had plenty. Pointing out the old KGB headquarters, she said it was known as the tallest building in the city – ‘because as soon as you go in you can see Siberia.’ And the other great source of jokes are the nouveau riche, or what we call the oligarchs.These are deemed to be stupid and vulgar. They allegedly love dog fighting: hence, one oligarch takes his dachshund to a fight. The other men laugh at him but his dog literally chews up the competition. He’s asked how much it cost. ‘A thousand euros for the crocodile, and 10,000 for the plastic surgery.’

With its broad network of canals lined with fabulous buildings, St Petersburg is often compared to Venice. It would be wrong to say it is as welcoming as the Italian city, though things have improved hugely since my first visit in 1984 when the city was still called Leningrad (the name was changed in 1991). Then I was reporting on an official visit by the then Labour leader Neil Kinnock. We were fêted and feasted everywhere, with caviar dished out as liberally as blackcurrant jam. But if you wanted a snack or a coffee on your own, you could forget it. Waiters, such as they were, seemed to regard customers as an outrageous intrusion on their day.

The windows of shops alleged to be the Soviet Fortnum & Mason were crammed with tinned herring and pickled cabbage. Department stores sold musical instruments, plus shaving cream, and little else. Now streets such as the Nevsky Prospekt could slot into the shopping district of almost any European capital – with added heritage and architecture. Perfect for a long stroll, and our Island Sky shuttle bus made it easy to get back to the ship more or less whenever we wanted.

St Petersburg - Church of the Spilled Blood

But you don’t go to St Petersburg for the shopping. Our cruise offered three onshore tours included in the price, with several optional extras – including the ballet, now no longer known as the Kirov (Sergey Kirov was mayor of the city until he was murdered). Our first trip took us round the city, visiting the extraordinary Church on Spilled Blood, where Tsar Nicholas II was assassinated, and the Peter and Paul fortress.

One of the pleasures of cruising on a small ship is the fact that all the passengers can fit onto three buses, and at most need six tour guides. We had to fight our way past much larger groups who had come off the giant cruise ships – one bunch were following a plastic flag marked ‘49’. It’s as if the population of a market town were to be crammed into a single building. These hyperliners, which tend to look like chain hotels upended with a funnel bunged on top, are fine if you want a shopping mall, swimming pool, bowling alley, casino, spa and beauty salon, which many people do. Our fellow passengers, however, seemed content with a small and cosy library, plus a convivial bar.

For many people the centre of a St Petersburg trip is the Hermitage, one of the world’s most fabulous art galleries. It’s packed with works by Leonardo, Rembrandt, Gaugin, Picasso, Matisse and thousands of other treasures. It is very, very crowded. My strategy would be this: fight your way past the Leonardo-lock on the ground floor, where hundreds of tourists make progress almost impossible, then go up to the third floor for the sensational collection of Impressionists. Here you will not be alone, but at least you won’t be struggling to keep upright, and you will be able to enjoy the paintings.

Peterhof Palace, St Petersburg

There is, frankly, far too much to see and do in St Petersburg. We took trips to the Peterhof palace with its Grand Cascade, an astonishing display of fountains. The original palace was gutted by the Germans, who blew the rest up as they retreated in 1944. It took several decades to restore, but the work is now complete and you would need to be a considerable expert to see the difference. Every morning the fountains around the park and up to the front of the palace start a breathtaking aquatic display. If the sun is shining you can be enveloped by a great orange and yellow mist as if you were being lowered into an air-conditioned volcano; quite unforgettable. And another day we were at Tsarskoe Selo with its superlative gardens, and its cluster of gilded onion domes, almost impossible to look at when the sun is gleaming off them. The highlight here is the reconstruction of the Amber Room, a chamber almost entirely lined with panels made of the fossilised tree resin. The original – or at least the precious panelling – was stolen by the Germans, and nobody knows what happened to it, though it’s widely believed that it was stored in Konigsberg and destroyed in a bombing raid. The replacement is a meticulous copy, right down to the different shades between brown and yellow. I found it breathtaking, but somewhat over the top, even kitsch – you might want to show it off, but it wouldn’t be a snug place to watch TV.

On our last afternoon we took a canal tour. It was a hot day and the iced Russian sparkling wine put us in even better spirits. The facades of more houses and palaces slid by gently, their pastel reflections in the water, as we sipped the generous refills. That evening the Island Sky left for Helsinki. As the ship glided down the Gulf of Finland, there was a farewell to the Russian party onboard. There was plenty of vodka, and everyone had to wear something Russian. Some wore military kit – real and mock – and fur hats, mostly made of rabbit or cat, I fear. My wife wore a pair of (purloined) polythene slippers they make you wear to protect fragile palace floors.

But St Petersburg was not the only delight on this tour. The cruise – 12 nights on board in all – took in nine different ports of call including Copenhagen, where we boarded; Gdansk with its superb housing and memories of the Solidarity movement; the three small Baltic states of Lithuania, Latvia and the prosperous Estonia; Finland; and the Åland islands, a collection of several thousand islands with a population of just 24,000. Here, we learned, people have died while rowing between the islands and colliding with a passing moose.

Finally we sailed through the wondrous Swedish archipelago towards Stockholm. This is a cluster of 24,000 islands, on which people have built thousands of houses. These ranged from sheds to small mansions, almost every one built above the shoreline with steps down to the sauna hut, from which you could plunge into the sea. It was tempting to leap overboard and join them – but not too tempting. The Baltic is never warm. Altogether this was a fine cruise. What made it even more special for my wife and I was not just seeing places we had never seen before and probably won’t again, but the warmth and helpfulness of the Island Sky team, from the captain down. As different from those Communist era staff of 1984 as ever you could hope to find.

MS Johann Strauss

“I’ve been Captain of the MS Johann Strauss since 2004. Before that I worked for 16 years on cargo boats and also on Ukrainian and German cruise ships. Next year, I’m sailing to all our destinations on the Danube, the Main and the Rhine, but the Danube is my favourite: it’s where I feel most at home.

Our passengers always tell us how much they like the ship and our itineraries. I’m delighted to say that they’re always very interested in the technical aspects of the ship, the engine, as well as general navigation. It is always nice to see so many passengers returning to us, especially when they say that they feel ‘at home’ on board. While in the USSR [Soviet] Navy for three years I sailed mainly around the Baltic and the North Sea. The oddest trip I’ve made was the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal, about three years ago. We had very high water on the Danube and we couldn’t sail under one of the bridges. After two days we continued on our journey and, to make up for lost time, we stopped in the middle of nowhere to link up with coaches. We managed to complete the itinerary without losing any of the tours and destinations. The cruise became an adventure for our passengers, who enjoyed every moment with good spirit and humour.

On another occasion, the opposite became the case. We had very low water on the Danube between Bulgaria and Romania. We reached a remote area with other ships and barges in front of us waiting for the water to rise. Somehow I knew we would make it – and that’s one of the reasons why I like the Danube so much. When I look at the surface of the water, how it moves and changes colours, it’s as if it is speaking to me. After a while I realised that we had an alternative channel and off we went. It was a great feeling.

When dealing with this ever changing means of transport, you need a combination of knowledge, intuition, adventure, and calculated risk. If one of the ingredients is missing, it doesn’t really work. Every country is interesting in its own way although my favourite is arriving in Budapest. This, in my opinion, is the real Queen of the Danube. The final approach involves sailing through the whole city, when all passengers are called to join us on the sun deck. It’s magic and, for many, it becomes one of the true highlights of their cruise.

There’s a huge difference between river and sea cruising. I prefer the river: it’s more challenging and gives me the satisfaction of doing something that needs great skills. Sometimes the waterway is narrow, the traffic busy. Nothing is automatic so you need all your senses alert while navigating.

When I have spare time I try to play some sports, listen to music and read my favourite poets. If we are in port, like in Budapest, I try to visit the Turkish baths. They recharge my batteries and leave me feeling new again. My home is Izmail, Ukraine, which is on the Danube Delta – one of my favourite places. When I am not on board I pursue one of my favourite activities here: hunting with my best friend, my dog. It’s wonderful in the early morning, when the sun rises and nature is at its most pure.

Because Noble Caledonia always brings nice passengers on board, I want to go to all the destinations they offer. We have a new set of itineraries on the Upper Rhine for 2012, and I’m sure that new programmes and adventures will appear in 2013 and beyond. Join us.”

Falklands Island albatross colony

The Falkland Islands might not be right on top of the list of holiday destinations for the average holiday maker – but the islands do offer a totally unique holiday experience. It is also the only part of Britain which has seen war as recent as 30 years ago… I say recent but it is incredible to think that in that same time span, Thatcher led our country into a war over a group of islands most had never heard of.

Fast forward to 2011 – I land at Mount Pleasant Airport on East Falkland. As I step off the plane I look at a sprawling airport complex, much bigger than expected with only military personnel around. A brisk fresh air makes me shiver after the confines of the plane. Serving as both a military and civilian airport, it is roughly a 40 minute drive from the main town, Stanley. The Falkland Islands consist of over 700 smaller and larger islands and its main place in the history books is that war. However, spending only a few days on the islands suggest to me that there is so much more on offer.

Now then, about that war: Although it started and ended within a period of 3 months, it has left a major impact on not just Britain, but the islanders themselves. The relationship between the 3,000 or so islanders and the military is strong – a sense of pride and support seems to prevail. Initial thoughts lead one to wonder why there was such a fuss about an island group whose main industry is wool, and fishing (squid).  Maybe it’s in the rumoured diamonds? In more recent times, the exploration of what is believed to be vast oil reserves would explain the interest of both Argentina and the British. The potential development of these reserves has increased the tension between the two nations again and, indeed, the islanders themselves will be divided if commercial drilling does happen.

That war began on the 2^nd April 1982 when the Argentine Forces landed & occupied the islands. It emerged that the Argentines expected Britain to protest but largely would not undertake any military action. They were mistaken and an armada of over 100 ships ultimately descended on the Islands. By the 14^th June, Argentina surrendered, 252 British soldiers and 649 Argentine soldiers had lost their life during the conflict. Thirty years on and veterans from both sides come and visit, an emotional journey they undertake for a war most of them did not understand.

Rockhopper Penguin standing on rock Falkland Islands Summer

Now, the islands offer an incredible holiday experience. They have a lot to offer including an array of incredible wildlife who is not accustomed to visitors, therefore very accessible. It has limited mobile phone reception, one petrol station and overall, the Falklands offer a holiday experience for those who like the outdoors, there is space – lots of it, and talking to my guide Tony, there is ample opportunity to enjoy and better understand what makes the islands so unique by spending time travelling around.

I am met at Mount Pleasant by Arlette Bloomfield the bubbly representative of Falkland Islands Holidays. During the 40 minute drive over part tarmac and part gravel road the passion and pride shines through. Originally from Birmingham, Arlette has been settled in the Falklands since she was 18 years old although her mother is a 6^th generation Falkland Islander. It has become her home and she talks fondly of the unique lifestyle people enjoy.

My aim is to understand the island for a planned group of travellers descending on the islands in March 2012. I have no expectations and perhaps that is part of the magic. I stay in Stanley where there is the only decent size hotel – the Malvina House Hotel, not “Malvinas” as is quickly pointed out to me as of course this is the name the Argentines have given to the islands. Point corrected I am taken on a brief town tour by Tony Smith, a 5^th generation Falkland islander. Again the passion and pride shines through as he points out areas of interest and significance in the small settlement.  Tony is going to be my guide the next day for what is described as a Battle Field Tour. The genuine interest of the Islanders of sharing and explaining their island is demonstrated when Arlette phones me to see how I got on in the afternoon, so over a drink that evening she gives me further detailed insight into the Islands and the people. It leaves me excited about the day ahead, the sights I will see, the stories that will be shared and the people I will meet. Already, I feel real warmth for the place despite the wind chill on arrival!

The next day is a full day, with a packed lunch prepared we set off on a journey to San Carlos, Darwin and Goose Green. What hits me instantly is the size – I never realised how big the Falkland Islands were. I am only travelling on one part of the Islands, East Falklands and the wide open spaces are vast. I am told the Islands are roughly the size of Wales.  During the journey Tony shares his knowledge about the conflict, highlighting specific battles, the luck, the mistakes and the ultimate success. With ease he mentions dates, battles and regiments. He has been involved with many documentaries filmed over the years and in the run up to the 30^th anniversary interest from broadcasters is again high. We visit the British cemetery in San Carlos as well as the small but extremely informative museum nearby. The settlements of Darwin and Goose Green were scenes of fierce fighting and seeing the tiny places you do wonder what the strategic imperative was. I didn’t do anything but listen and take in the extensive information dispelled by Tony however at the end of the day, the eyes were heavy and a good night sleep set me up for the next day.

I was having some discussions with Bed & Breakfast owners as well as with Customs & Immigration. The internet has become a crucial method of communication as well, to my total disbelief, a convenient way of spending money. E-bay and on-line grocery shopping is as much a feature of everyday life as they are back in the UK and no doubt the Falklands will take the prize for the furthest delivery point for some UK supermarkets – no, they are not based on The Falklands but ordered goods get packed and dispatched from the UK! Delivery time – 6 weeks.

Falklands West point Island Devils Nose Albatross Colony

Today I am exploring the other main reason for visiting the Islands, the wildlife. Depending on where you travel there is an abundance of bird and sea life to be seen and the most appealing of all of it is the accessibility as well as the unexpected curiosity of a lot of this wildlife. Limited exposure to humans means that most wildlife has not developed a great sense of fear towards us allowing unbelievable close encounters, a photographer’s paradise. In talking to other travellers, who have seen equally stunning displays of wildlife around the world, they believe it to be better than, for example, the Galapagos which is a significant claim.

I spend a few hours at Bluff Cove, not too far from Stanley but distance is not necessarily a measure of accessibility due to the state of the road. As we come off the main road that connects Stanley with the airport we have to drive through what can only be described as a direction – path, road, tracks would be suggesting something far more superior to what we are traversing. However, it is so worth it. Bluff Cove is a beautiful tranquil beach area with hundreds of penguins including the beautifully regal looking King Penguin. We are in penguin heaven and walking around slowly, snapping some photos takes my breath away, not just because of the stench in the air, but mainly because of being so close to wildlife. Walking further down to beach we pass waddling penguins going to and from the sea, it is an incredible sight as they seem to chase each other or perform a relay by individually taking the lead only to wait for the other to take over. I sat on the beach and just observed for a while.

We are warmly greeted by Kevin and Hattie Kilmartin who run the Sea Cabbage Cafe and museum. Hot tea or coffee accompanied by homemade cake and biscuits are a welcome distraction from the wildlife activity around us. One of the best ways to describe, not just Kevin and Hattie, but many others who I met is that they are pioneers. It is clear that this far outpost of what used to be a significant British Empire still relies on a spirit of pioneering so needed in far flung places, cut off from what we tend to refer to as civilisation. The question beckons whether perhaps true civilisation is found back in places like the Falklands where a “can do” attitude, ingenuity and a sense of community prevail.

From the moment I arrived I realised I had not given myself enough time to explore this fascinating and untouched part of the world. A full and busy schedule back in “civilisation” has meant I have not allowed myself to take the time to fully appreciate the diversity and beauty of the islands and that is without actually being able to check my Blackberry as it blissfully doesn’t work here. Hopefully, if anything changes on the islands this will not be one of them.

I will go back.

Cruise director Jannie Cloete said: “There was excitement in the air as we welcomed guests onboard the Island Sky in Portsmouth for our special anniversary cruise. So many familiar faces and smiles ensured right from the start that this was going to be a special time onboard. “Our guest speakers kept everyone busy while at sea and some fun activities were arranged to add to everyone’s enjoyment.

London Festival Opera added to the festive feeling with their two very captivating performances. The highlight was a special anniversary quiz where a cruise onboard the Island Sky was up for grabs.”

Due to the popularity of the cruise, Noble Caledonia will be repeating the Celebration Cruise in 2012.

Themed itineraries can also include performances by entertainers, and related shore excursions, as well as studies of classical composers, architecture, history, famous people, birds and more. London Festival Opera joins passengers for Noble Caledonia’s range of music themed hotel stays and cruises – destinations include the Italian Lakes, Budapest and the Danube – with performances taking place both onboard and ashore. New for 2012 is Music & Gardens on the Dalmatian Coast – a seven-night stay at the five star Grand Villa Argentina in Dubrovnik with London Festival Opera.

Wine academy at the Vintage House Hotel, Pinhao, Portugal

For culinary connoisseurs, food writer Elisabeth Luard entertains and educates on the diversity of Mediterranean food, while Roger Preece brings his expertise to devise itineraries to sample local food and wine. Other special interest cruises include a ten-day river journey through the Netherlands to enjoy the spring flowers; an exploration of the bird islands of Britain and Ireland; and wildlife-spotting aboard the MS Quest from Scotland to the Norwegian Fjords.

“My hobby has long been trains, ships and planes – so I’m very lucky to do this job. It started in 1994, when I chartered a Qantas 767 to take 189 guests to iconic destinations in Asia and Africa. Since then, the company has chartered numerous Qantas 767s and 747s, and in 1997 we started chartering smaller aircraft with parties of 46 guests aboard a Fokker F28 flying from Cape Town to Cairo –a tour we still do every September. We now have four small plane programmes: Cape Town to Cairo; Around Australia aboard a 34-seater Dash 8; tours from the UK to India and South America aboard a 92-seater all business class Boeing 757; and an expanding programme on a 44-seater all business class Airbus A319.

Just like a small ship, a private plane with 34 to 92 guests is an intimate, easy and exciting way to travel, with personalised service. Guests get to know our crew who stay with us on tour and join us on excursions and at many meals. A camaraderie develops onboard and guests look forward to returning to the aircraft for the next flight. We specialise in remote, exotic destinations, particularly Latin America, India and Africa. With our own plane we take the pain out of travelling and avoid formal and frustrating airport procedures. India is probably my favourite country and I also enjoy South America with its incredible European-style cities contrasting with mountain scenery, lakes, jungles and waterfalls. A great benefit is speed. Most guests are amazed at how much we fit into a short time.

The main difference with commercial flying is the lack of hassle. After checking in at the first port – London or Sydney – our guests never need to go to another counter. This is particularly beneficial in India, where our tours are able to pass queues 500 to 800 people long and walk straight to a private lounge, then the aircraft. One boarding pass covers the whole flight. Our staff handle the luggage and, normally, guests don’t even need to touch their bags at airports. We arrive at the airport 40 to 50 minutes before departure, pass through security and out to the aircraft. Onboard crew welcome guests back and usually have their favourite drink ready soon after take-off. Our flights are very sociable. Guests walk around the aircraft and talk to fellow travellers.

We’ve been to some odd spots but probably Mopti in Mali – the gateway to Timbuktu – was the most intriguing. There’s a sealed runway here so that a Boeing 757 can make a perfect landing and stop outside the airport terminal – a tin shed. Staff are sent from the capital Bamako but there’s no customs or immigration. We simply walked through the tin shed, shuffled through the dust outside and joined three tour buses. Our passports were stamped in one operation at the local police station. Then we visited Timbuktu on a smaller aircraft – and what an incredible destination it is.

Where possible we do scenic flying over spectacular areas. We may do a figure of eight above Iguassu Falls in Brazil or Mount Kilimanjaro, do a lap around Easter Island for a taste of the stone Moai statues from the air, circle the domed Bungle Bungle range in North Western Australia, or view the muddy brown Amazon and its tributary, the jet black Rio Negro.

It’s highly reassuring. Our British, Australian and South African airline colleagues are meticulous operators, and a huge amount of planning and local knowledge goes into our charter flights. Most guests prefer flights of around three to four hours to give time to socialise and have a good meal with fine wine. We normally spend two or three nights in each destination and stay at the best available accommodation. Sometimes we can use our private plane like a tour bus, stopping at Iguassu Falls or Easter Island for a short six-hour visit.

We’re always seeking new destinations. In March next year our Boeing 757 tour from the UK visits the Falkland Islands for the first time as part of our tour of South America. We’re also taking our first 757 tour from the UK to India – frankly, there’s probably no other destination in the world where a private plane is so beneficial. We’re also looking forward to touring the islands of Indonesia, returning to Madagascar and Timbuktu, spending more time in Cuba and combining other out of the way places. We also operate three sightseeing flights to Antarctica from Australia every Southern summer. I’ve done it over 50 times as flight manager and still look forward to seeing the world’s last great wilderness from the air.”

Located in Agra, south east of Delhi on the right bank of the Yamuna in a vast Mogul garden of some 17 hectares, the monument is a mausoleum for Shah Jahan’s third and favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal. The monument is a complex structure with four minerets (domed chambers) with the main white marble dome rising 213 feet (65m), the most photographed and recognisable structure of the whole monument.

Interior walls are decorated with inlaid design of flowers and calligraphy using precious gems such as agate and jasper and archways inscripted with passages from the Qur’an. Based on Mughul architecture, which is a fusion of Persian, Islamic and Indian styles, it took a staggering 20,000 workers over 22 years and at a cost of 32 million rupees to build this marbled ‘Place of Crown‘. Materials were brought in from all over India and central Asia, not only marble but also precious stones. Its stunning architectural beauty is breathtaking, particularly at dawn and sunset.

Experience this magnificent symbol of love on The Captain’s Choice’s ‘Exotic India & Mountain Kingdom’ Tour by Business Class Private Jet. Fly by Private Jet to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal where guests will stay two nights at the luxurious Oberoi Amarvilas where rooms are booked to ensure views of this amazing structure. There will be time to explore the Taj whether up close or from the confines of our luxury hotel.

Kate Adie and General : two guest cruise ship speakers whose insights can make a cruise ship experience even more memorable

Going on a cruise ship holiday can give you the chance to listen to experts talk passionately about countries, travel experiences and subjects they are passionate about. Kate Adie and General Sir Michael Rose are two of the most fascinating cruise ship speakers you could hope to hear.

Kate Adie appears on Noble Caledonia’s ‘A Sea of Legends’ cruise ship tour which takes in Turkey, Cyprus and Crete. The 2011 Legends tour lasts from 31^st October to 11^th November and cruise ship guests never tire of seeing Kate deliver some expert insights into the area and her life – she is a bit of a legend herself!

Kate has certainly packed a lot of travelling into her 65 years – much of it through working as a war correspondent for the BBC. In an Observer newspaper profile of her written in 2001, it was noted that squaddies joked that if Kate was dispatched to their posting they knew they were in real trouble.

It is hard to guess from Kate’s accent that she hails from the north-east; she is the adopted child of a Sunderland pharmacist and his wife. Her clear and perfect enunciation made her the ideal candidate to be a court correspondent for two years – a position in which she seems to have thrived in more than some of her successors as she was awarded an OBE in 1993. But it is her coverage of international crises for which she is best remembered – her journeys have taken her to The Falklands, Libya, Tiananmen Square, the Gulf and the former Yugoslavia.

Kate is now a regular presenter of Radio 4’s From Our Own Correspondent programme and has published three books; her 2002 autobiography, a book about women in war, a book about foundling children and a book about people who risk their lives for work.

General Sir Michael Rose is another Noble Caledonia guest speaker with immense experience of foreign conflicts. Sir Michael is due to appear on Noble Caledonia’s ten-night Black Sea Odyssey cruise which takes in Turkey, Georgia, Russia, Ukraine and Bulgaria.

Born in 1940, Sir Michael is a retired army general who commanded the UN protection forces in Bosnia during the Yugoslav wars from 1994 to 1995. After joining the army reserve in 1959, he went on to join the Coldstream Guards in 1964. Sir Michael’s time as a commanding officer of an SAS regiment saw him oversee the successful storming of the Iranian Embassy in 1980 – a crisis which was covered by fellow Noble Caledonia guest speaker Kate Adie.

Two years after the Embassy siege, Sir Michael commanded Special Service operations-in-theatre during the Falklands Conflict. Following his time in Bosnia-Herzegovina he became Adjutant-General and Aide-de-Camp General to the Queen until 1997. Known for his coolness under pressure, Sir Michael is much decorated. He was awarded a Queen’s Gallantry Medal in 1981 and was knighted in 1994. He has not been idle since leaving the army as he frequently contributes to newspapers and has written two books.

The second of these books, Washington’s War, makes compelling comparisons between the American War of Independence and the US-led war in Iraq. Perhaps you’ll get to hear him talk about these parallels on board a Noble Caledonia cruise ship!

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2001/oct/14/afghanistan.television

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Rose_(British_Army_officer)

The Captain’s Choice Tour based in Australia has been specialising in Private Jet holidays since 1994 and what they offer are luxurious hassle free holidays. Imagine visiting some of the exotic Wonders of the World aboard your private, all Business Class Jet.

The private air charter touring concept has been popularised by The Captain’s Choice Tour and it is an in-demand feature of each season’s Tour Program. Combining ease, comfort and safety with the convenience, efficiency and reliability of a dedicated private aircraft, these charters allow passengers to experience several truly unique and exotic destinations over a relatively concise time period.

The Business Class Boeing 757 is operated by Monarch Airlines, a British company with a background of 40 years in charter operations. The benefits of Private Jet travel are endless when compared to commercial flights. By setting flight schedules, the ability to fly directly to remote destinations plus expedited customs and immigration procedures, there will be more time experiencing the destination than seeing it within the four walls of an airport.

With only 92 seats onboard, the cabin is spacious and the Business Class seats allow you to stretch your legs and fly in comfort. A full crew and the same crew including three pilots, flight attendants and a dedicated engineer travel with the tour throughout the whole journey. The camaraderie onboard will only enhance your touring experience as you’ll be travelling with like minded travellers at all times and the fantastic staff onboard will always be at each destination to welcome you back onboard including The Captain’s Choice Tour Escort Team.

Sit back and relax, whilst sipping French Champagne as you are whisked from one incredible destination to the next.

NOBLE CALEDONIA WINS TELEGRAPH TRAVEL AWARDS FOR FAVOURITE SMALL CRUISE LINE 2011

Earlier this year the Telegraph polled 23,000 Telegraph readers about their favourite travel companies. This week, those companies were awarded during a ceremony at London’s St Pancras Renaissance Hotel.

Categories included Favourite Tour Operator, Favourite Specialist Independent Tour Operator, Favourite Small Cruise Line , Favourite Large Cruise Line.

When Noble Caledonia launched 20 years ago, the first Gulf War was at its height, travel was at a standstill, and it was hard to imagine the company had a future. Twenty years on, this niche cruise operator, winner of Telegraph Travel’s award for small cruise line, is the undoubted leader in the field when it comes to educational cruising – not just in terms of the guest lecturers invited on board, but also the places its ships visit. Cruises on the Mississippi, voyages to Russia’s White Sea, and sailings from Ghana to Cape Town and around Chile and Peru are among an extensive selection of exotic voyages lined up for 2012, along with cultural journeys around the Aegean Sea and Black Sea.

Noble Caledonia’s cruises are not for everyone. Its ships are small, usually holding no more than 180 passengers, with lectures and classical music recitals instead of costumed cabaret shows. But it’s those small ships with their stylish décor and educational cruising that make Noble Caledonia a winner with discerning travellers – people who want to visit new places in the company of others with similar interests, be they history, culture, birdwatching or music. The very British atmosphere on board its charters is an added bonus.

4 January – 19 January 2010

Day One – Auckland Arrival
Monday, January 4, 2010
After a reception at the hotel, everyone had a chance to meet the expedition staff and enjoy a lovely dinner before a well-earned rest.

Day Two – Auckland to Rotorua
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Our first real day of excursions began early with a 7:15 am departure from the hotel. Three coaches traveled south across the gorgeous green New Zealand countryside. As the coaches approached Rotorua, the contrast from rolling hillsides dotted with working farms to thick New Zealand bush was dramatic. Our first stop was to the volcanically active Maori cultural center of Te Puia. Local guides met the coaches and walked us through a stunning landscape of bubbling mud pools, steaming geysers, and sulfur stained rock formations. A kiwi viewing house offered the group an excellent view of a large, active kiwi digging in the soil of its indoor habitat and walking around. We were then welcomed into the Maori meeting house by the songs of traditional dancers and we watched them dance and sing in Maori costume and language. Few will forget the wide eyes and protruding tongue of dancers during the haka or war dance. A delicious buffet lunch was followed by a tour through Maori carving and weaving schools.

Day Three – Auckland to the Bay of Islands
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
By breakfast time this morning we were entering the beautiful Bay of Islands in northern New Zealand. One hundred and forty four islands surrounded the Odyssey as she steamed into her anchorage in this maritime park. The ship’s zodiacs brought everyone into shore to visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and the Puketi Kauri Forest. In the Puketi Forest we saw first hand giant kauri trees mixed in with large rimu trees, native New Zealand palm trees, thick hanging vines, and brilliant mosses. It was tremendous to stand among these massive trees.

Day Four – Bay of Islands to White Island
Thursday, January 7, 2010
The Clipper Odyssey steamed all night south from the Bay of Islands towards White Island. This active volcano rises up from the sea floor almost 50 km from the Whakatane coast. As we ate breakfast, the distant peak drew closer until the rising sun illuminated the bare hillsides and fringing pohutukawa forests. As we approached, a bright white patch on the slopes revealed itself to be a thriving gannet colony and we watched the seabirds soar and dip on the breeze as the ship dropped anchor. Zodiacs shuttled everyone into the island’s rough-hewn jetty where we scrambled onto the parched shores of White Island.

Day Five – White Island to Napier
Friday, January 8, 2010
Another sunny, warm day greeted the Clipper Odyssey as she docked alongside the port of Napier this morning. Coaches collected everyone after breakfast to see the art deco architecture of the city of Napier, to taste wine, and to sample a variety of honeys. we loaded up onto rugged fourwheel drive buses and set out for the gannet colony at Cape Kidnappers. At the far end of the Cape we were greeted by a sea of white Australasian gannets in the Plateau Colony. With softly marked yellow heads, green streaked black feet, and jet black-fringed wings these large birds literally surrounded us as we watched them sit on nests, cruise overhead, stumble in for landings, and happily reunite with their mates. Everywhere was the sound of their chuckles, gurgles, honks, and fussing. Far out over the blue sea we could make out hundreds more gannets soaring on their long, narrow wings, diving at high speeds for fish, and floating together in large rafts at the surface.

Day Six – Napier to Kaikoura
Saturday, January 9, 2010
By mid-afternoon the Odyssey arrived in Kaikoura and anchored out off the town. A somewhat wet zodiac ride brought almost everyone into shore where some headed off for an albatross watching expedition, others opted to walk the headlands, and still more headed into the town center by shuttle bus. The albatross watching expedition was very fruitful, with wandering, Southern royal, and Selvin’s albatross a-plenty. We watched in wonder as these birds tussled with cape pidgeons and giant petrels for scraps of baitfish. Our various expeditions gathered back on the pier and loaded back into zodiacs for dinner onboard. Mid-way through the meal, Louis Justin, our expedition leader, announced the sighting of a sperm whale on the starboard side of the ship. Many people left in the middle of their suppers to make it up to the bridge just in time to see the enormous flukes, or tail fins, of the whale break the surface as it prepared to dive for perhaps as long as one hour in the 1.6 km depths. several dusky dolphins swam alongside the ship, playing in the bow wake and jumping completely out of the water. Sure enough, a second sperm whale was soon spotted and we watched with anticipation as we crept closer to its resting spot due south of the ship. This whale also raised its flukes in a farewell gesture as it descended to feeding grounds far, far below. In all we spotted four whales this evening.

Day Seven – Kaikoura to Christchurch
Sunday, January 10, 2010
After docking in Lyttelton, the majority of guests boarded coaches bound to the suburb of Addington to meet the TranzAlpine Railway. The train headed inland over the flat patchwork fields of the Canterbury Plains; the neat and orderly design broken only by rivers, streams and lakes. The train then began a steady climb up into the Southern Alps. Those who didn’t venture up in the train opted to join a city tour of Christchurch with stops at the International Antarctic Centre, a classic private English garden, and a drive through the city center ending at the Botanic Garden and the Canterbury Museum.

Day Eight – Christchurch to Dunedin
Monday, January 11, 2010
Once the ship had docked, a coach departed for the Penguin Place for a chance to view the extremely rare yellow-eyed penguin. This penguin nesting sanctuary is privately managed and funded by the entrance fees of visitors. A series of trenches have been dug through the nesting area and covered in camouflaged blinds, so that we were able to move around and view the penguins without disturbing them. Our group was very fortunate to see as many as 10 individual yellow-eyed penguins, several of which were fluffy grey chicks. The colony of nesting penguins at Penguin Place has grown in the last few decades.

Day Nine – Dunedin to Stewart Island
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
A beautiful cruise brought us into Paterson Inlet off of Stewart Island at the very southern end of the South Island. Nestled into the Inlet is a very special island named Ulva Island. the island is a bird sanctuary and has been since 1922. Predators like rats, stoats, weasels, and ferrets have been essentially eliminated from the island and the forests have been allowed to grow back up. Ulva Island today provides us a glimpse of what much of New Zealand might have looked like before settlement. Everywhere we looked amongst the big, beautiful trees and thick bush there were kaka, red- and yellow-crowned parakeets, yellowheads, tui, riflemen, fantails, saddlebacks, and fearless New Zealand robin poking around for food in the leaf litter just centimeters away from the path’s edge. Bold, flightless weka also roamed the paths and beaches of Ulva scouting for food including worms, snails, insects, seeds, and fruit. The experience of walking in the thick bush with a huge variety of plants and a cacophony of birdcalls around us is one that will not be easily forgotten.

Day Nine – Stewart Island to Fiordland
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
This morning before breakfast we put the zodiacs in the water and went zodiac cruising around the Solander Islands. It was stunning! Hundreds, if not thousands of albatross were wheeling and soaring overhead and in front of huge steep cliffs covered in deep green tree daisies. For a while we floated in the boats just taking in the sight of so many albatross around us – a once in a lifetime experience. Some of the zodiacs even had a chance to see a Fiordlands crested penguin hauled out on a rock. This is a very rare species and is only found in southern New Zealand.

Day Ten – Fiordland to Milford Sound
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Early this morning Louis woke us up with a call to come out on deck to enjoy our passage through Fiordlands. Exploring various arms of the fiords, we encountered more bottlenose dolphins and vivid green hillsides dotted with trees ferns, beeches, red rata trees in bloom, and everywhere we looked, misty white clouds clung to the hills and mountains. After an hour and a half of cruising we returned to the ship, stowed the zodiacs and made our way further up the southern coast headed for Milford Sound. Many of us congregated on deck to experience the entrance into Milford. Its steep, rugged, glacially carved scenery and snowcapped mountains were stunning in the sunshine. Mitre Peak came into view on the south side of the fiord and the spectacular Stirling falls was cascading down on the north side.

Day Eleven – Milford Sound to Jackson Bay
Friday, January 15, 2010
A quick zodiac ride brought us into shore where our coaches were parked by brilliant red rata trees. Three coaches set off with long sandy beaches running along one side of the road and dense bush and marshes backed by steep, tree-covered mountains running along the other. The coaches rotated through three activities – a jet boat ride on the Waitoto River, a visit to a crayfish processing plant, and a tea stop in a small village known as Hannah’s Clearing.

Day Twelve – Jackson Bay to Golden Bay
Saturday, January 16, 2010
The landscape of the coast around Golden Bay is strikingly different than the rocky and mountainous coasts we’ve become used to seeing over the past few days. Here we saw sand dunes and limestone shorelines with long sandy beaches stretching for miles. The sand dunes that make up Farewell Spit are one of the country’s most important wading-bird habitats. As the first “large” cruise ship to ever dock alongside in this small harbour, we were greeted by local Maori people, regional and town council members, small boats, and sightseers. The Captain and Safety Officer were the first to descend the gangway followed by the expedition staff and the passengers. We received a traditional Maori challenge followed by welcome songs and speeches.

Day Thirteen – Golden Bay to Nelson
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Our day started with a spectacular drive into Abel Tasman National Park on a narrow unpaved road. Dodging mountain bikers and holiday-makers towing boats, kayaks, and bikes, we crawled up through the newly regenerated bush dominated by kanuka, manuka, and fern trees. Shortly after distributing the lunches our catamaran arrived and picked us up right from the sandy beach to take us south down the coast. The catamaran was fast and stable and allowed us some excellent views of the limestone coastline of the Park. We even had an opportunity to view a group of NZ fur seals hauled out on the shores of a small island. While the Abel Tasman Park tour was taking place, the rest of our group opted to stay onboard this morning and the Clipper Odyssey left the dock in Tarakohe shortly after breakfast. The ship made its way along the coast and guests enjoyed lectures from Ingrid and Toby during the late morning.

Day Fourteen – Nelson to Picton
Monday, January 18, 2010
Early this morning the Odyssey wound its way through the intricate passages and calm bays of the Marlborough Sounds. Lush green shorelines and limestone shores were alive with the sounds of cicadas buzzing in the bush By early afternoon we arrived alongside the Picton Wharf and disembarked for a tour of the Vines Village and Forrest Wines. The coaches took us through the bustling seaside town of Picton with its bright cafes and small shops. The waterfront of this busy summer town harbors a steady stream of water taxis, ships, and private boats heading in and out of the marina. The wine tasting was lovely with a sampling of delicious local wines from the world famous Marlborough region.

Day Fifteen – Picton to Wellington
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Our last morning on the Clipper Odyssey has arrived. As we put out our packed luggage and exchange emails and addresses with new friends, we know that the memories from this journey will be with us on the long voyage back home and for a lifetime.

July 14th – July 26th, 2010

Wednesday July 14th, 2010
Vancouver
Strait of Georgia, British Columbia
We arrived in Vancouver a couple of days ago and enjoyed some leisurely time in the biggest city of the west coast of Canada to rest and recover from our long flights: today the weather was sunny and warm and some of us elected to go up the Vancouver Tower to catch a glimpse at the city’s surroundings or stroll along the lengthy shorelines of the city’s peninsula. Then, in the middle of the afternoon, we headed for the maritime terminal where several big ships were alongside, together with our little Clipper Odyssey. We walked the gangway and were warmly greeted aboard by refreshments of various sorts as well as sandwiches and the smiling faces of the hotel staff and ship’s crew.

Thursday July 15th, 2010
Johnstone Strait & Queen Charlotte Sound
Canadian Inside Passage, British Columbia
We were in an area known for its population of resident orca feeding on salmon and in fact, with a bit of scanning, the officers on the bridge spotted a pod of orca shortly after breakfast. The ship was by then fairly close to Robson Bight, a bay off Vancouver Island whose gravel and cobble river mouth is used by orca as a scratching post in summer. In an instant, we were all on deck, or on the bridge wings, and the cameras started working well.

Friday July 16th, 2010
Chatham Sound & Dixon Entrance
Canadian Inside Passage, British Columbia
Dixon Entrance & Revillagigedo Island (Ketchikan)
Alaskan Inside Passage, Alaska
This morning we awoke to bright skies again as the Clipper Odyssey was steaming through Grenville Channel, one of the numerous channels of the Canadian Inside Passage. During dinner, we approached our first Alaskan port of call, Ketchikan. A couple of large cruise ships were alongside already and the captain and United-States pilots, who had come onboard shortly before, brought the Clipper Odyssey along the quay right in the middle of town. We cleared the United States of America immigration formalities with the officials and then walked down the gangway to stretch our legs in Ketchikan, the southern port of call of Alaska, situated on Revillagigedo Island: finally we were in Alaska.

 Saturday July 17th, 2010
Misty Fjords (Behm Canal, Walker Cove, Portage Cove)
Alaskan Inside Passage, Alaska
After breakfast, we boarded our zodiacs: a first for some of us. Our drivers took us on a morning cruise in Walker Cove and, once on the water, the sea-level perspective made it clear how massive the rocky cliffs really were. We explored the surrounding river drainages, scanning the shoreline for wildlife: of course everyone was hoping for some of the furry animals reputed to live in these forests but most were satisfied with the numerous birds of various species encountered during the first part of the cruise. An American dipper was spotted; seals and river otters were also noticed by some of the boats. In a couple of bays along the cruise, salmon gathered in river mouths, waiting for the high tide before setting off on their long journey upstream: some leaped occasionally, perhaps getting themselves in shape for the obstacles that lay ahead.

Towards the end of the fjord, two large and flat river mouths came into view, ideal territory for bears. Our drivers switched the engines off and we waited for the bears: it was enjoyable to sit in the boats in silence: the peace and quiet of the surroundings were impressive. And then, suddenly and silently, a brown bear came out of the forest and onto the shore. Looking for mussels, it walked along the beach before entering a grassy patch and was observed for quite a while eating grass and digging for shells. The bear seemed completely unconcerned with our presence although it was not oblivious to us for, every now and then, it looked at the ten zodiacs along the shore and occasionally stood us for a better view. As our zodiacs headed back to the ship, we felt as if we had already been out all day and yet it was only lunch time: our voyage was off to a good start..

Sunday July 18th, 2010
Wrangell Narrows, Kupreanof Island & Mitkof Island (Petersburg)
& Frederick Sound (Le Conte Bay)
Alaskan Inside Passage, Alaska
As we woke up today, the Sun was shining on clear blue skies and the Clipper Odyssey was navigating towards the southern entrance to the Wrangell Narrows. This beautiful 35-kilometre-long stretch of water is only 100 metres wide and 6 metres deep in places and the trees along the shore were so close to the ship that we felt like we could almost reach out and touch them. For a couple of hours, the ship manoeuvred the numerous turns towards Petersburg, the fishing town located at the northern entrance to the narrows.

Our drivers took us towards the shores of the mainland and followed the coast, heading for the entrance to the Le Conte Bay. On the way, we stopped to investigate some of the nicely carved and beautifully coloured icebergs that lay grounded in the bay. Guillemots were seen in the water as well as murrelets and an occasional seal turned up to watch the traffic. As we headed deeper into Le Conte Bay, the amount of ice increased: large icebergs, bergy bits and lots of brash ice covered parts of the fjord. However, our zodiacs managed to find a way through the S-bend of the fjord all the way up to a place from where we could see the face of the Le Conte Glacier in the distance, a few kilometres away.

Monday July 19th, 2010
Endicott Arm (Ford’s Terror) & Tracy Arm
Alaskan Inside Passage, Alaska
As we were having breakfast this morning, the captain and pilots took the Clipper Odyssey into Endicott Arm: the weather had remained clear during the night and the Sun rose behind the mountains. Endicott Arm is a long ribbon of tide-influenced embayments penetrating far inland into the Coastal Ranges of Alaska, and it was amazing scenery all around. High above, small whips of clouds hung to the summits of the mountains but all around the blue waters of the fjord reflected the blue skies. The ship entered one of the inlets and we prepared for our morning zodiac cruise. The aim of the cruise was to enter Ford’s Terror, a cleft in the mountains leading to another fjord: the six-kilometre-long narrow valley is protected on all sides by steep cliffs and its entrance is guarded by a tiny channel: this constriction causes the water to rush in and out through the opening as tides rise or fall.

When we arrived at Ford’s Terror, the tide was rising and the sea was quietly flooding the fjord. Our drivers took us inside and we found ourselves in the midst of a very peaceful fjord. The granite cliffs topped with sparse spruce trees and covered in lichens were towering high above our heads and, in places, several spectacular waterfalls were dropping from hanging valleys above. Birds were sighted, porpoises were sighted and some seals were sighted as well. At the end of the long fjord, the valley split into two arms and our zodiacs explored both of them looking for wildlife and enjoying the wilderness. A sleeping black bear was spotted under a tree a little bit above the valley and our boats gathered around for a few minutes: occasionally the bear lifted its head to see what was going on in the water just underneath but otherwise remained undisturbed.

Tuesday July 20th, 2010    
Stephens’ Passage (Five Fingers & The Brothers) & Kupreanof Island (Kake)
Alaskan Inside Passage, Alaska
During the night, the Clipper Odyssey had anchored in Holkham Bay before making its way slowly into Stephens’ Passage towards a place called the Five Fingers. Cheli woke us up at dawn this morning but the sights outside were hugely rewarding: the skies were still blue, the mountain chains could be seen all around, both on the mainland and on the islands surrounding us, Baranof, Kupreanof (whose names are a testament to the Russian past of Alaska) and Admiralty islands, and dozens of humpback whales could be seen blowing in every direction. After a quick cup of coffee or tea, we joined our zodiacs and went for a pre-breakfast show. One humpback whale was breaching repeatedly, another was tail flapping, another was showing its pectoral fins high above the water. As the more active animals quieten down, we headed for another whale which was bubble-net feeding on its own and came to the surface several times just next to our boats. What a fantastic beginning to our day!

Wednesday July 21st, 2010
Kuiu Island (Tebenkof Bay) & Baranof Island (Red Bluff Bay)
Alaskan Inside Passage, Alaska
After breakfast, we joined our boats and headed into various streams and inlets in the bay. Sea otters were spotted as well as river otters and numerous birds, including Canada geese, belted kingfishers and bald eagles.

The captain and pilots took the Clipper Odyssey towards the entrance to Red Bluff Bay, a bay that is highly recognisable thanks to a bluff of red lava on the northern side of its entrance. Our zodiacs were launched and off we went, through a series of narrow passages, into the long fjord. At the end of the bay, a flat, mud plain was an ideal spot for bears and, indeed, we had just arrived that a brown bear was spotted, lying down, eating grass.

Thursday July 22nd, 2010
Icy Strait (Point Adolphus) & Chichagof Island (Elfin Cove) & Cross Sound (Inian Islands)
Alaskan Inside Passage, Alaska
At dawn, everyone was on deck to try and spot more humpback whales: the Clipper Odyssey was  sailing through Icy Strait along a stretch of the coastline of Chichagof Island called Point Adolphus. Across on the other side of the strait was the entrance to Glacier Bay and ahead of us the long swells announced the exit to the Inside Passage and the open Pacific Ocean close by. Given the strong tidal currents of the area, whales reputedly dwell in the waters of Icy Strait between the mainland and Chichagof Island.

There were humpback whales everywhere, some breaching, some tail flapping, some spy hopping. The outer decks were bustling with wildlife spotters, photographers, who had, for a moment, forgotten all about breakfast.

Friday July 23rd, 2010
Disenchantment Bay, Yakutat Bay (Hubbard Glacier)
Gulf of Alaska, Alaska
The Hubbard Glacier presented an awesome appearance as our little ship slowly travelled the last few kilometres to the glacier front. The brash ice from calving of the glacier was seen flowing rapidly towards the right-hand corner of the bay and Russell Fjord as the tide was coming in when we arrived. Finally, in a patch of open water, the captain and pilots manoeuvred the ship to enable us to board the zodiacs. At this stage, the weather was freezing and gusty but it cleared nicely during the morning. Thunderous cracking sounds from the glacier were sporadically heard in the distance and some great calving was witnessed as our boats neared the front of the glacier. It was again a truly humbling experience to listen to the cracking and groaning and thundering of the ice flowing down towards the sea. The brilliant blue colour of parts of the glacier ice was absolutely stunning: hundreds of years of tremendous physical pressure had squeezes the air bubbles out of the ice and leaving only the blue side of the sunlight spectrum refracted through this pure ice.

Saturday July 24th, 2010
Kayak Island (Cape St Elias & Searock Cave)
Gulf of Alaska, Alaska
This morning, we awoke as the Clipper Odyssey reached Cape Saint Elias, the southern tip of Kayak Island. Cape St Elias is an outcrop of granite at the southern end of Kayak Island and is home to numerous seabird colonies. After grabbing a quick croissant and coffee, we joined our zodiacs by way of the starboard gangway (the swells were a little too big to use the stern platform). For a couple of hours, we cruised around Cape St Elias, amidst seabirds of all species and a group of humpback whales. Guillemots, puffins, shearwaters were spotted and a young whale breached repeatedly in front of our boats.

The Clipper Odyssey came to its anchorage during lunch and we joined the zodiacs again and were skilfully driven ashore around an invisible reef. The tide was high and the waves breaking on the beach so it was some sport coming ashore. The landscape was eerie with fog banks hanging on the top of the surrounding hills. Along the beach, lots of logs had been deposited by previous tides. Footprints of brown bears were seen on the beach but none appeared during our stay.

Sunday July 25th, 2010
Harriman Fjord (Barry Arm) & College Fjord
Prince William Sound, Alaska
This morning we were awoken in Prince William Sound, named by Cook after the future William IV. Prince William Sound is an outstanding place to see glaciers and wildlife and we did spend the entire day in the sound’s waters, visiting several of its fjords. Our three nearest glaciers were Cascade Glacier, Barry Glacier and Coxe Glacier. Our zodiac drivers took us for an inspection tour of each of these three glaciers in turn, although Barry Glacier was almost inaccessible due to the ice in the bay. A number of seals were observed lying on ice floes, seemingly oblivious to the calving of the glaciers as well as to our presence. Later on, we found a group of sea-otters which turned out to be quite bold for sea-otters and they remained with us for a little while: it was quite a delight to see them swimming on the backs and some of them even carried young ones on their bellies.

We were amazed by the magnificent and eerie scenery surrounding us: the icy peaks of Alaska’s coastal mountains rose above the waters of the bay and the light drizzle made the whole atmosphere quite fantastic.

Monday July 26th, 2010
Seward
Kenai Peninsula, Alaska
During the night, the captain and pilots safely brought the Clipper Odyssey to Seward, the main port of southern Alaska and, after a final breakfast from our wonderful hotel and restaurant staff, we disembarked our little ship for the last time and headed off for the drive to Anchorage before our afternoon in Alaska’s main city.

14 June – 2 July 2009

Compiled by Pamela Le Noury

DAY 1: OBAN
Sunday 14 June 2009 SCOTLAND
On a sunny and calm Sunday we boarded the MV Clipper Adventure, berthed in the quintessentially Scottish and marvellously picturesque town of Oban. All were aboard just past 6pm enjoying tea and snacks, and not long after that we set sail. All were out on deck for this propitious occasion; the town was framed by a complete rainbow, Captian Hans Gunnar Roos spun our ship around in an impressive display of the Clipper Adventure’s manoeuvrability, and we literally sailed off into the gleaming sunset.

DAY 2: St KILDA
Monday 15 June 2009 SCOTLAND
Weary travellers woke up refreshed after a great night sleep with some gentle rolling and fresh sea air. The day was calm and sunny, and during the morning we approached the famed gannet colony stacs of St Kilda. The cliffs were white capped with birds, and every outcrop highlighted with guano. Dominating these stacs were gannets, as thick in the air as they were on the cliffs, swirling clouds of the birds close to the stacs, blurring the edges, and birds honing in from all directions, many with laden beaks. There were also many Fulmars gliding around and Great Skuas trying to steal fish from gannets.

DAY 3: NORTH RONA
Tuesday 16 June 2009 SCOTLAND
This 270 acre island is managed as a nature reserve, owing to its important grey seal and seabird colonies, notably the European Storm-petrel and the larger Leach’s Storm-petrel. Laurie decided to go for a zodiac cruise. The cruise was, in a word, magical. It felt as though we were in a wildlife documentary, only the David Attenborough narrative and dramatic instrumental music was missing. Flocks of guillmots and puffins rafting on the water, puffins standing sentinel on the cliff tops. The cliffs themselves were a fascinating display of ancient geological formations, waves of molten rock gone solidified overlaid with layers of yellow and green lichens, tassels of seaweed on the bottom and Sea Pink flowers at the top.

These cliffs were further overlaid with guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars and steaks of guano. Shags lined the lower rocks jutting out, and seals popped their heads up all over. The uninviting nature of these cliffs to boatmen has left it wild, and the animals skittish. It’s doubtful they see humans for most of the year. The seals (Atlantic Grey Seals) plopped off the rocks and into the water where they ogled us from a safe distance, and then disappeared in a great splashing huff. The best part was certainly our ability to enter some of the caves in the nimble zodiacs, requiring some dexterity by the drivers among shallow rocks and with wind and swell.

DAY 4: TΌRSHAVN
Wednesday 17 June 2009 FAROE ISLANDS
Welcome to the Faroe Islands! They are part of the Danish Kingdom, and are wedged between the North Atlantic and the Norwegian Sea. Reaching these remote islands meant we had passed 60° North and were about halfway between Iceland and Norway

Faroes are volcanic islands in origin, dating back 55 million years. The landscape is full of lush green pastures sprinkled with yellow buttercups (the national flower). The houses are all quite similar; well kept, modern looking, colourful and grass roofed.

DAY 5: VESTMANNA
Thursday 18 June 2009 FAROE ISLAND
We woke up berthed in Vestmanna to another great weather day (by Faroese standards); the clouds were high, the visibility excellent, and the water still. Local boats collected us from our gangway at 9am. The boats were very modern, well appointed and comfortable. On these fine craft we ventured around the island cliffs on a journey that nobody forecast to be quite as breathtaking. The cliffs were up to 300m tall, sheer face in some parts, interspersed with grass terraces in other places. The boatmen knew their area and equipment extremely well and manoeuvred the boats into the tightest caves, gorges, crevices and under archways amidst reasonable sized swell. Just when you thought we couldn’t possibly get though that gap / tunnel / wedge, so we passed through, the cliffs sometimes a meter from the sides of the boats. The cliffs also revealed a story in geological history with hundreds of layers visible on the cliff face all made of different colour rock and mineral deposits through many millennia. The animals on the cliffs were another treat; fulmars, guillemots, kittiwakes and larger gulls, arctic terns and eider ducks were the main birds in attendance of this dramatic scenery.

DAY 6: MYKINES
Friday 19 June 2009 FAROE ISLANDS
It was full steam ahead for an early start to our Iceland adventures. We had a morning lecture by the ship’s doctor, Bertil Hamberger, on Swedish Midsummer which they are celebrating today, which is for the Swedes (including our captain and a few passengers) as big as, or bigger than Christmas and New Years. Colin gave his lecture on ‘whales of the North Atlantic’ before lunch, and Graham gave his lecture on seabirds of Iceland after lunch. Colleen gave a late afternoon talk on ‘The early settlers of Iceland’, and during recap we learnt about Iceland geology from Kevin.

DAY 7: SEYĐISFJÖRĐUR
Saturday 20 June 2009 ICELAND
Welcome to Iceland! Clocks were set back an hour and snow capped peaks lined the horizon
from 5am. Now past 65° north, it was the coldest day so far, at 5°C. Those that braved the outer decks to man binoculars were rewarded with several whale sightings throughout the morning.

DAY 8: HÖFN
Sunday 21 June 2009 ICELAND
We woke early on this Sunday for what promised to be a super exciting day, and the longest of the year. The Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe at over 8 000km2, and it occupies 8% of Iceland. It is also the largest nature reserve in Europe. The day was cool and overcast in Höfn, and we had dolphins around the ship as we boarded our busses. One bus took the birders on a tour with Graham and local guide. The other two busses took passengers alternately to the glacier for a 4×4 ride OR snowmobile experience, followed by lunch a tour to the glacier lagoon; Jökulsárlόn. We drove west along the shore between the mountains and the sea. Visibility was bad but close up

there were plenty of Arctic terns, swans and Reindeer. Jökulsárlόn was an amazing experience; the amphibious boats drove us right into the water and we steered among the icebergs that had broken off the main glacier and were bumbling around on their slow migration to the sea. This year the icebergs were much more concentrated, so we couldn’t get right between them but got very close alongside. The extra icebergs were not due to global warming but rather due to extra sea water exposure at the glacier’s edge. Below the glacier the water dropped to 300m depth, and in the main body it was 200m, a mixture of fresh water and salt water from the sea. The water was 2°C, so swimming wasn’t really on the cards, but it was thrilling to be among the giant icebergs slowly drifting along, bearing in mind that 90% of their volume is submerged. On this day of summer solstice the sunset was at 11:31pm!

DAY 9: HEIMAEY & SURTSEY ISLAND
Monday 22 June 2009 ICELAND
We approached the Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) mid-morning from the east, and it was a great sight to be out on deck in the sunshine for. Directly ahead the red and black remains of the most recent eruption in 1973 were pronounced, behind that the remainder of Heimaey was lush green. To our left we could see the stacks and islands sprinkled with white birds, and to our right we could see the white bird cliffs of Bjarnarey and then Ellidaey. Soon enough we were driving next

to a sheer vertical cliff face dotted with birds, we saw the pen where Keiko was held, and we berthed in the harbour. The busses took us around the town of Vestmannaeyjar; a place where golf courses and soccer fields are nestled in the centre of volcanic rims, and the entire town is semi-surrounded by this staggering amphitheatre We drove to the southern point of Haimaey, Stόrhöfđi, which is possibly the windiest place in Europe (with regular winds of up to 30m per sec). This is also the largest puffin colony in the world, and we entered a hide to have a look at them. The views of several nearby islands on the rift line were terrific.

From there we went to the black sands of of Eldfell. The eruption of Eldfell started on the eastern side of Heimaey on 23^rd January 1973, and was officially declared over on 3rd July. All 5000 residents were safely evacuated. An estimated 250 million cubic metres of volcanic material (tephra, ash and lava) was emitted. The temperature at the crater’s edge was 470°C one metre below the surface. 400 homes were buried in ash and a recent project has started to excavate the homes. We were able to walk around the area and see how far the lava invaded the town. Quite a remarkable story, to see the efforts made and precautions put in place to save the town, harbour and people from this natural disaster. The colourful gardens with miniature houses in the middle of a lava field were like a phoenix from the ashes. We departed Heimaey and travelled south along the mid-Atlantic Ridge marked with islands; Sudurey, Hellisey, Helgusker, Geldunger and Sulnasker – to name the larger ones. These blocks emerging from the sea were in fact the tops of incredible high sea mountains, reaching 4000m depth below sea level and up to 1000m above. Many were home to enormous gannet colonies.

DAY 10: REYKJAVIK
Tuesday 23 June 2009 ICELAND
The morning tour took us straight to Blue Lagoon where we spent a few glorious hours soaking up all the famous goodness. Blue Lagoon usually ranks number 1 on the list of great things to do in Iceland. The sensation of swimming outside in Iceland in this milky-blue and steamy lagoon creates a dreamy and fantastic experience, for which people travel from all over the world to enjoy. After dinner there were some great sightings for those who were out on deck; several Humpback whales were seen, Risso’s dolphins and a Minke whale.

DAY 11: GRUNDARFJÖRDUR & LÁTRABJARG
Wednesday 24 June 2009 ICELAND
Once again those who spent some time out on decks were rewarded with the sighting of some White Beaked dolphins. It was a cool but pleasant morning on the west coast of Iceland. We berthed in the small and new harbour of Grundarfjordur, on the north side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, and boarded busses for our morning excursion.

DAY 12: ÍSAFJÖRĐARDJÚP & VIGUR
Thursday 25 June 2009 ICELAND
Ísafjörđardjúp is a fjord on the north west corner of Iceland, the Vestfirđir region. We woke up to the most glorious day in this glacier; blue skies, glassy ocean and magnificent mountains and glaciers surrounding us. We entered Jokulfirdir, an offshoot of the main fjord, and then Veidileysufjardur – an offshoot of that fjord. Drangjökull glacier lay across the Hornstrandir peninsula, at an altitude of 925m. We took a zodiac cruise and found ourselves surrounded by mountainous views mirrored precisely on the still waters around us. A few seals, pairs of swans and many other birds were around. We landed on a wet pebble beach, and wellington clad passengers explored the surroundings. Colleen discovered a series of ruined Viking dwellings around the area which added another fascinating dimension. These will now become listed officially with the Archaeological Institute of

Iceland in Reykjavic and hopefully eventually excavated. Back on board we had a barbeque lunch up on the outer decks, and could not have asked for better weather or views as we sailed further through Ísafjörđardjúp fjord. After lunch we boarded the zodiacs again for our visit to Vigur, a 2km long island with one resident family and great bird life. There is Iceland’s only windmill, and eider down production room. Eiders and Black Guillemots were nesting all over the place, very habituated. There were hundreds of Arctic terns, many dive bombing another group of visitors who all held flags for protection. If you weren’t bird watching, you were watching bird watching and the dive bombing. Puffins were also out and about in strong numbers.

DAY 13: AKUREYRI & GRÍMSEY
Friday 26 June 2009 ICELAND
We sailed down the glassy waters of Eyjafjorđur and berthed in Akureyri; the capital of the North by 8am. This city has the largest population in Iceland after Reykjavic, at 17 500, and is an important city for fisheries and agriculture.

DAY 14: HÚSAVÍK
Saturday 27 June 2009 ICELAND
Our final day in Iceland had begun with us all traipsing around the Arctic circle in the wee hours, followed by some deep sleep, and then an early rise for our planned tours. Our tours departed at 8am, one went to the Lake Myvatn region and the other to Ásbyrgi and the Dettifoss falls.

Dettifoss falls, where a bit of hiking was necessary to reach the main view points. The reward was well worth the effort, as Dettifoss has the greatest volume of any waterfall in Europe, at 500m3/s. The falls are 45m high and 100m wide and pour water into the spectacular Jökulsárgljúfur canyon.

The Myvatn basin

With over 50 midge species, and up to 70 000 midge larvae per square metre, ‘midge lake’ is a haven for birds, and is considered one of the top bird watching places in Iceland. We did manage to see all three bird species that occur nowhere else in Europe: Barrow’s Goldeneye, Harlequin Duck and the Great Northern Diver.

DAY 15: SEA
Sunday 28 June 2009 ICELAND
A day at sea is a lovely chance to catch up on sleep, catch up on reading and writing, and attend some of the lectures scheduled for a good dose of brain stimulation

DAY 16:
Monday 29 June 2009 FAROE ISLANDS
There were several sightings of dolphins on this fine and sunny day, as well as much entertainment provided by gannets flying overhead and resting on the boat.

DAY 17: LERWICK
Tuesday 30 June 2009 SHETLAND ISLANDS
With an early start we set off on busses for Old Scatness. Old Scatness itself is a fascinating site, only discovered by accident in 1975. There is a broch and iron age village, probably built by the Picts and later inhabited by Vikings. The site is over 2000 years old, and exhibits a number of modifications through the ages.

DAY 18: OLDEN (NORDFJORD)
Wednesday 1 July 2009 NORWAY
Nordfjord is a 106km long fjord and district in western Norway, and includes Europe’s largest mainland glacier, Jostedalsbreen, and Europe’s deepest lake, Hornindalsvatnet, at 514m. We entered the
fjord quite early, and all morning were surrounded by the grandeur of the great green cliffs lining the fjord. We had a barbeque lunch on the aft deck, and it was once again the most perfect weather for such an occasion.

Noble Caledonia staff are eagerly awaiting the evenings celebrations of our 20th anniversary party when we receive a call announcing the safe arrival of the latest addition to the Noble Caledonia fleet ~ the MS Caledonian Sky.

See below for the latest updates about the sister ship to our very own MS Island Sky.

* Ship changed ownership on September 29th 2011 in Gibraltar.

* Ship changed name (from Sunrise to Caledonian Sky) on September 29th 2011 in Gibraltar.

* Ship changed flag (from Bermuda to Bahamas) on September 29th 2011 in Gibraltar.

* Ship left Gibraltar in the evening of Saturday of October 1st 2011 and reached Gothenburg in the morning of Friday October 7th (on the day of Noble’s 20^th anniversary!).

* The Bay of Biscay was flat calm, no wind, which is rather unheard of in October.

* Ship is now laid up at Gotenius shipyard in Gothenburg, where refurbishment will take place over-winter 2011/12. (The Gotenuis shipyard did the refurbishment of the Caledonian Star over 20 years ago, when she was converted from fishing trawler to cruise ship.)

* Ship will sail in the beginning of May to London (Tilbury) where Noble Caledonia will take delivery and start a long-term charter.

DAY 2: ISLES OF SCILLY
Saturday 6 June 2009 ENGLAND
The morning was a little dim; overcast, windy and some rain. So our first zodiac ride proved to be a good test for our foul weather gear, and you might say it was good training! Amidst spells of light rain we made our way to Tresco Island where we landed at Carn Near jetty, and took a short walk up to the world renown Abbey Gardens, home to thousands of subtropical and tropical plants

Designated an ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’ (AONB) in 1976, the Scillys are an excellent location to see migratory birds, rare birds and thousands of other bird watchers glued to binoculars. And this is precisely what many of our group intended to do; so Graham lead a walk to the nearby lake.

The zodiac ride back to the ship was very easy; going with the wind and even the sun gleamed out from time to time. Scilly Boatmen collected us by local tender boats for our afternoon excursion to St Agnes. the most photogenic of the Scillys. Many small home cafes dotted along the perimeter of this isle, the white mounded lighthouse, the standing stone of Nag’s Head, meadows of pink and purple flowers (notably Foxgloves) and Troytown pebble maze were just some of the delights and photo opportunities around.

DAY 3: FISHGUARD
Sunday 7 June 2009 WALES
We berthed the ship alongside at Fishguard and following lunch we boarded busses for a tour to St Davids, a city defined by its Cathedral but betrayed by its small size and village atmosphere. The cathedral was vast and wonderful, and what a treat to have this thrown into our tour unexpectedly. The city had many little cafes and shops, and a great visitor centre.

DAY 4: HOLYHEAD
Monday 8 June 2009 WALES
We work up with another of Laurie’s quirky quotations to a fair day with a slight wind. We berthed at the town of Holyhead, considered part of Anglesey Island. The natural landscape was of green pastures and fields, decorated with a myriad of natural flowers in bloom and large hills of light grey Precambrian boulders and rock formations. The geology was as fascinating as the birdlife, let alone the archaeological sites. Something for everyone!

The cliffs and waters near South Stack were filled with Common Guillemots, Razorbills, the gulls, fulmars, some of the crows and puffins, quite a site. The lovely walks along the cliffs and down to the lighthouse on South Stack itself made for a fantastic

DAY 5: PORTRUSH & RATHLIN
Tuesday 9 June 2009 NORTHERN IRELAND
It was a warm welcome into Ireland as the weather was glorious. Dolphins swam around the boat soon after we dropped anchor. It was a smooth ride into Portrush and into one of three busses for our tour. The guides, Heather, Charles and Petra took us to Dunluce castle, Bushmill’s distillery and then Giant’s Causeway. Giant’s Causeway was a sight of geological grandeur, really breathtaking. it was a fascinating place to be, and tremendously beautiful in the sunshine. Many folks enjoyed clambering around on the basalt columns, while others took a long walk around the bay with fantastic views. Our afternoon excursion was to Rathlin Island The walk was lovely and there was a large number of Harbour and Grey seals lazing about on one of the rock beaches. The RSPB lookout was fantastic; excellent views of the tall columns of cliff piercing out of the ocean, absolutely filled with birds. Dominated by the Common Guillemot, there were also Black Guillemot, Fulmar, ravens, puffins and seals swimming below. The cliffs were living, moving and squawking.

DAY 6: LUNGA & IONA
Wednesday 10 June 2009 SCOTLAND
We woke up to lovely weather and possibly the best bird location on this cruise. Lunga is a small island There are no human inhabitants, but it is just lined with birds, clouds of birds above and rafts of birds on the water, and a healthy mixture of Common Guillemots, Fulmars, Puffins, both Black-backed gulls, Kittiwakes, Razorbills, Oystercatchers and Shags. The birds could be seen in vast numbers and at fairly close range from the land and from the sea – just amazing.

The island is mostly surrounded by cliff face – a patchwork of bare rock, green and yellow lichens, grass and tufts of white flowers, every outcrop covered in white guano and birds on nests. The tops of the cliffs were an endless system of puffin burrows.

Departing by zodiac was just as festive as arriving; about 50 shags perched on a rock on the way out, and huge numbers of kittiwakes were hovering and feeding around the ship.

Iona is very special, and whomever goes there seems to make space for it among their best memories. It’s a peaceful and beautiful island with great spiritual and Christian history. The charming little town has fishing boats moored off the beach in a light blue sea, the beach sand is white with large pale grey boulders – an idyllic setting.

 DAY 7: ST KILDA
Thursday 11 June 2009 SCOTLAND
St Kilda was the first UK site to receive World Heritage Site, and it is one of only 24 sites in the world to have received dual WHS status for cultural and natural significance. It boasts two millennia of relatively isolated human habitation on the island, and is the annual breeding ground of about 60 000 pairs of Northern Gannets, 64 500 pairs of Fulmars and 300 000 pairs of Puffins!

 DAY 8: LOCHMADDY & ISLE OF SKYE
Friday 12 June 2009 SCOTLAND
We woke up to a glorious sunny morning, while approaching North Uist for our morning excursion. The bus collected us in the town of Loch Maddy, and our first stop was to Barpa Langais – a chambered cairn from the middle stone-age or Mesolithic period. Originally seasonal camps were set up but as time went on this became an area of permanent dwelling and farming began into the Neolithic ages. This burial site served as a communal tribal resting place

around 5000 years ago. Back on board we had a fantastic barbeque on the aft deck, and we could not have wished for better weather: sunny and calm as we sailed across a patch of sea called The Little Minch towards the Isle of Skye. We anchored at Loch Dunvegan off the Isle of Skye and had a 2 mile zodiac run to Dunvegan Castle.

DAY 9: CANNA & RUM
Saturday 13 June 2009 SCOTLAND
We woke up to a chilly day with intermittent soft rain, but to make up for that there was a large pod of Common Dolphins spread out around the ship. This was followed by some otter and seal sightings.

Canna has a population of 23, and holds 3 churches: Most striking of all was the majesty of the island; great green terraced mountains formed by basalt lava flows, this has created very fertile soils and there are many trees. Cliffs shaped and welded by geology and coloured by lichens and flowers. The bird life was also good, with many auks and gulls in the water.

Rum was an entirely different experience of an island with a comparable history. Rum is the largest of the Small Isles of the Inner Hebrides, with a population of about 30. Heron, geese and oystercatchers line the water and the wooded forest on this beautiful and relatively untouched island; ‘nature’s island’. Kinloch Castle was built as a ‘holiday home’ by Sir George Bullough in 1897 on the island his wealthy father purchased as a sporting estate. The island was closed for 50 years and it’s the reason the house is still intact today with all the original furnishings and trimmings, in various stages of gentle decay.

A look at the tourist attractions of Auckland and Queenstown – New Zealand destinations which have featured heavily in Rugby World Cup news stories recently.

At the time of writing (September 2011) New Zealand has been attracting some great publicity as hosts of the Rugby World Cup. The tournament is a major boost to the profile of the Land of the Long White Cloud and a superb showcase for the nation’s beautiful countryside, exotic people and bustling towns.

They say you need to spend at least two weeks in New Zealand to get a true flavour of the place, but the 20 teams competing in the World Cup will be hoping to spend rather longer on the country’s shores than that – the competition lasts six weeks. The teams won’t just spend their time in New Zealand training – days off between matches gives squad members plenty of time to sight-see.

New Zealand’s three major cities are situated in North Island. This is where you can find Auckland – the place which is the base for the host nation; a fearsome side which is the tournament favourite.

Auckland

Auckland is the most populous urban area in the country and has over one million residents. The city is sure to throw its weight behind its fellow countrymen during the tournament but should England, Scotland, Wales or Ireland play there they shouldn’t feel too outnumbered – the majority of inhabitants can claim European – predominately British descent.

If you arrive in Auckland via Waitemata Harbour you cannot help but notice Rangitoto Island; the largest of the 50 volcanoes in the Auckland Volcanic Field. Rangitoto is easily Auckland’s youngest volcano – it’s only 1,000 years old! Despite its volcanoes, Auckland is not really a place of extremes – it has warm summers and mild winters.  The city really does offer the best of both worlds – 70 per cent of the land area there is rural yet 90 per cent of the population live in urban areas.

If you want a view which takes in Auckland’s rural and urban sprawl then it’s best to put your walking shoes on and climb up Mount Eden; the highest natural point in Auckland. Don’t be put off by the fact that Mount Eden is a volcanic cone – it does have a grass crater at its summit!

If you want to see some great wildlife you will have to head away from the crowds and head to the west of Auckland to visit Waitakere Ranges Regional Park to see some fantastic unspoiled bush territory, forests and hills. The ranges’ also boast four black sand beaches which are popular locations for surfers.

Auckland might not be New Zealand’s capital but it is the country’s rugby capital – the city’s Eden Park will host the World Cup Final on 23^rd October.

The English rugby team is playing its early games in Dunedin, far away to the south of New Zealand. The 2003 World Cup champions will be hoping that they will travel to Auckland to try to regain their crown but it sounds like they will find it a wrench to leave the south.

Queenstown

In particular they will miss places like Queenstown, a town some of the players visited after a gruelling opening match against Argentina. Queenstown has a reputation for being ‘the adventure capital of the world’ and squad regulars Chris Ashton, Tom Palmer, Nick Easter, James Haskell and Ben Foden seemed keen to put this to the test by taking part in a 134-metre bungee jump before trying their hand at white-water rafting, jetboating and flying in a helicopter.

Even if you aren’t a fan of adventure sports, there is so much to love about Queenstown. Simply enjoying the scenery is reason enough to visit. The town is built on an inlet called Queenstown Bay on Lake Wakatipu, a Z-shaped lake which boasts spectacular views of nearby mountains. It is this landscape which attracts so many film producers. The snowy mountain scenery has attracted the film crews of productions such as The Lord of the Rings trilogy. Filming further north just wouldn’t have been as advantageous – Auckland has volcanoes but it almost never snows there (July 1939 and, strangely enough, August 2011 providing very rare exceptions).

There are many other compelling reasons to journey so far down south – Queenstown is reputed to have the world’s southern-most wine-producing region. The Pinot noir produced in this area deservedly fetches premium prices. Sipping a glass while taking a tourist trip on the lake aboard the 100-year-old steamship TSS Earnslaw will certainly give you a flavour for the area.

Perhaps the England rugby players will choose to re-visit Queenstown for a glass of the local red stuff should they taste triumph in Auckland come 23^rd October.

Words by James Christie

Sources:

Daily Mail

Wikipedia Climate

Wikipedia Climate 2 

Since that time over one quarter of a million people have travelled with us on a myriad of trips to every corner of the world, and by every means of transport known to man. Read on to find out how we celebrated our 20th birthday aboard our very own MS Island Sky…

There was excitement in the air as we welcomed guests onboard the Island Sky in Portsmouth for our special Anniversary cruise. So many familiar faces and smiles ensured right from the start that this was going to be a special time onboard. The weather for the first two days was not ideal and we experienced some movement as we sailed towards Lisbon. Our guest speakers kept everyone busy whilst at sea and some fun activities were arranged to add to everyone’s enjoyment.

London Festival Opera added to the festive feeling with their two performances which everyone thoroughly enjoyed. To add to the feel of festivity onboard, a special anniversary afternoon tea and anniversary dinner were arranged. Other evenings saw decorations on the tables including hats, poppers and blowers adding to the party feel.

The hot weather called for mini ice creams handed out at the gangway as guests returned from tours. The Hotel Manager Wendy and her staff went to great lengths to make every meal a celebration.

The highlight was a special anniversary quiz where a cruise onboard the Island Sky was up for grabs. This had to be postponed due to some choppy seas but when rescheduled, The Lounge was packed as quiz master Jannie Cloete read the questions one by one. It was a close race and three couples went through to the next round. The winning cruise went to Ian Rattee and Susan Cowen with Peter and Christina Griffiths and Maurice and Monica Purver winning Noble Caledonia vouchers to be used against a future holiday.

Everyone had a great time and wondered what Noble Caledonia will plan for the 21 years anniversary…

A look at some of the key buildings and places visited by tourists in Port Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. Why are places such as Government House, the Town Hall and Mount Tumbledown so closely connected to the islands’ history?

The brightly corrugated iron roofs and painted decorative woodwork are welcoming sights for those arriving in Stanley Harbour.

Stanley is the capital of the Falklands and its harbour looks rather like a picture-postcard corner of Devon or Cornwall or a fishing village in Scotland – a surprising resemblance given that the Falklands are just 250 nautical miles from the coast of South America.

Wandering inland you can still see red phone boxes, a sight which is rare in Britain now that more functional (and less attractive) transparent booths have taken over. Close your eyes and you could be standing in a British town from 30 years ago.

It was almost 30 years ago (in 1982) that the British-ruled Falklands were invaded by Argentina, a country whose ruling junta claimed sovereignty of the islands.

Each year Noble Caledonia organises small-ship cruises to the Falklands, South Georgian and Antarctica – a cruise which involves a stay in Port Stanley and a chance to visit some of the places and buildings which featured so heavily in the war.

Government House

Government House is probably the most famous building in Stanley; you can take a good photo of this impressive house and its beautiful flower gardens from the adjoining road but it is not open to the public.

The building was, and still is, the home to the Governor of the Falkland Islands – a post filled in 1982 by Rex Hunt.

As Argentine forces advanced on the poorly-defended capital, Governor Hunt hurriedly made Government House the operational headquarters for the Royal Marines after he sent his family and domestic staff away to safer houses with only their most treasured possessions.

These people left just in time as Government House became the scene of a site of engagement between the Royal Marines and Argentine navy commandos.

Stanley Town Hall

After Hunt gave orders for the Marines to lay down their arms he went to Stanley Town Hall and, still wearing his governor’s plumed hat, told the Argentine General: “You have landed unlawfully on British territory and I order you to remove yourself and your troops forthwith.” Four hours later, Governor Hunt was put on a plane to Uruguay and would play no further part in the conflict.

Falkland Islands Museum

You can discover more about the events of the war by visiting the Falkland Islands Museum. You can’t miss the museum as there is a restored Argentine Panhard armoured vehicle parked outside!

Liberation Memorial

At the heart of Stanley is the 1982 Liberation Memorial, a statue flanked by two wooden benches and encircled by a stone wall. It was designed by an islander in tribute to the British Forces and the three civilians who died during the conflict.

Guided walks visit this memorial and groups of people stand beneath the fluttering Commonwealth flag to find out more about the sacrifices made defending the island.

The Secretariat Building

The bloodshed came to an end when the Argentine forces signed a surrender document in the Secretariat Building in what is now known as the Liberation Room.

Hilltop memorials

The hills above Stanley were where many of the greatest sacrifices took place. Monuments and memorials now dot the landscape of these hills; marking the lives lost by soldiers in battles fought to recapture the city in the valley below.

Mount Tumbledown

Mount Tumbledown’s memorial ensures that the Battle of Tumbledown is never-forgotten. This battle was fought at close quarters late at night at one of the highest points in the hills overlooking Stanley and resulted in Argentine forces being driven from the mountain.

An Argentine kitchen just below the memorial and Argentine dug-outs on the road to Murrell Farm can still be seen on the hills today – reminders of how these now-peaceful hills once echoed to the sound of gunfire and rumble of tanks.

Stanley today

Stanley, the city that was so fiercely fought over, nestles at the foot of these hills. It is now more than a third bigger than it was in 1982, with many large residential housing projects having been built to the east of the city.

A continuing boom in the exports of fine wool, mutton and beef, means that the islands’ vibrant capital continues to thrive.

How different might Stanley’s fate might have been had it not been liberated?

This is something that visitors enjoying the calm, tranquillity and abundant wildlife of the island’s capital might well ponder after learning about the place’s fascinating history.

Words by James Christie

Sources:

Wikipedia – Stanley, Falkland Islands

Falkland Islands

Noble Caledonia’s ‘In the Footsteps of St Paul’ cruise in October does not just visit places linked to the life of St Paul. The lives of those closest to Jesus of Nazareth – and those like Paul who were the first to become Christian leaders – took very different paths after Jesus’s death. Family and followers of Jesus journeyed to all the corners of the globe to try and spread his message (often while fleeing religious persecution).

The ancient Turkish city of Ephesus is one of the places where the paths of Jesus’s most famous companions and early followers are thought to have diverged. Day Four of Noble Caledonia’s 13-day October St Paul’s cruise, visits Ephesus. Near the city there is The House of the Virgin Mary; traditionally considered to be the place where Mary spent her final days.

The House of the Virgin Mary

This tiny stone cottage was re-discovered by a French priest called Father Julien Gouyet in 1881 Father Julien had used a book detailing the visions of the German nun Anne Catherine Emmercih (which described the final years of Mary’s life) as his guide when looking for the Holy Mother’s final resting place. When the priest stumbled upon the house it was a roofless ruin, albeit one which had been venerated for centuries by the inhabitants of a distant mountain village who were descended from the Christians of Ephesus.

Today, the house still attracts veneration from visitors – ones living even further away from Ephesus. Thousands of people from all over the globe flock to the lush green hillside where the house is located to drink from the spring there; its waters are said to have miraculous properties.

Papal visits

Some of these visitors have been Popes. Pope Paul VI visited the shrine in 1967, with Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI following in 1979 and 2006 respectively.

It is amazing to think that the Virgin Mary has brought pilgrims and Popes to this humble house, just as, many believe, Saint John brought her to Ephesus  before her ‘assumption’ (ascension to heaven).

St John

Nearby, at Ayasoluk Hill, there stands the Basilica of St John – the place where the disciple who Jesus was said to have loved most is buried. It is believed that John fled from Jerusalem to Ephesus and that the city was the place where he wrote his gospels and received the last Revelation of Jesus and. With John and Paul’s presence continuing to exert a large influence over the city, it is little wonder that Ephesus is considered a cradle of Christianity.

St. Paul

Journey to the end of a marble street leading from the library in Ephesus and you will see the impressive amphitheatre, large enough when built to house 24,000 people. It was here that Paul preached to the men and women of the city. His words, teachings and example still echo throughout the world today – and continue to attract people to this mysterious ancient city’s ruins.

Words by James Christie

The shell of a Madagascar tortoise is a beautiful – and rare – sight to behold. These radiated tortoises have yellow streaks radiating in a cobweb-style pattern from the ‘scales’ on top of the shell.

As these beautiful creatures move so slowly it is easy to admire this beautiful pattern if you’re lucky enough to see one in the wild.

However recent news reports suggest that these stunning land-dwelling reptiles, thanks mainly to the cruelty of poachers, could be on the fast-track to extinction…

Noble Caledonia’s Madagascar and Beyond Cruise spends four days in Madagascar; giving ample opportunity to see the rich variety of wildlife on the thousand-mile island dubbed the world’s ‘eighth’ continent.

This wildlife includes lemurs and tortoises which are endemic (native to) the Indian Ocean’s ‘Treasure Island’.

The world’s oldest creature

Many believe that it was a Madagascar-radiated tortoise which was the world’s oldest-living creature. King Malila, as the tortoise was justifiably called, was given to the Tongan Royal Family by Captain Cook in 1777.

‘King’ could count meeting Queen Elizabeth (in 1953) as one of the many highlights of his 188 years on planet earth![1]

But King’s prospect of a long life in Madagascar would be severely reduced if he was alive today.

Cultural taboo

According to the Turtle Survival Alliance (TSA), the radiated tortoise was once protected by a cultural taboo which prevented local tribes from eating them. But Madagascar has experienced an influx of people from tortoise-eating tribes and the taboo now has little effect.

Where once tortoise meat was only served on special occasions, it is now eaten on a daily basis.

‘Delicacy’

A BBC article about the tortoises highlighted how government officials, who are supposed to protect the island’s tortoises, often eat this ‘delicacy’ in the island’s restaurants themselves.

Armed poaching gangs of up to 100 men, comb areas of the island – destroying the tortoises’ habitat and collecting 1,000s of tortoises during each ‘sweep’.

Animal collectors

The tortoises are often sent to Bangkok and larger Asian cities where they are prized for their meat. Animal collectors from as far afield as the USA and Europe also covet Madagascar’s tortoises.

As the poachers kill or capture both adults and juveniles, the tortoise populations often have little chance of recovering.

Finding a mate

The vast size of the tortoises’ natural habitat in Madagascar means that, with declining numbers, the surviving tortoises often have to make arduously long journeys to find a mate.

The TSA believes that the situation is “desperate” and that there is “little time left” to protect the four species of Madagascar tortoise.

Hopes

But it is hoped that the policy of concentrating on the healthy populations that stay close to communities with a strong tradition of tortoise protection, will pay dividends.

Some optimism might also be gleaned from news that two poachers were recently arrested in southern Madagascar; hopefully an example of a crackdown on the illegal trade.

New species

But many more poachers will be willing to fill the shoes of their two arrested ‘colleagues’.

If the tortoises of Madagascar do become extinct, will the unscrupulous hunters turn their attention to some of the 600 new species which have recently been discovered on this magical island?

The similarities in the lives and careers of classical music’s two greatest composers

The 31-year-old composer stood with his arms folded defensively as the seated 16-year-old played piano in a rather studied manner. The younger man, sensing the indifference of the master he wanted so much to impress, abandoned the sheet music in front of him and resumed playing.

This time his style was more passionate, more daring, even discordant as if – having given up all hope of winning admiration – he was playing for himself and not an audience. It was only then that the elder above turned quietly to bystanders and said thoughtfully: “Mark that young man; he will make himself a name in the world.”

The account above is much like the 19^th century biographer Otto Jahn believed a meeting between Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Ludwig van Beethoven unfolded. Jahn insisted the two met when Beethoven travelled to Vienna in the spring of 1787. But the writer only had anecdotal evidence that such a summit took place and none of the two composers’ letters ever made reference to such an occasion.

Noble Caledonia’s Rivers of Music cruise (15^th to 26^th May 2012) journeys down the mighty Rhine; a river which has a strong connection with the lives of Beethoven and Mozart. On dry land, cruise ship guests can hear a string quarter recital in Beethoven’s house in Bonn. Mozart’s music, meanwhile, will be given another airing in the Hall of Mirrors at the Mannheim Residence – a place where Mozart first performed in the summer of 1863.

Birthplaces
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart is the elder of the two composers; he was born in 1756 in the town of Salzburg in what is now Austria. The influence of the 600 works he composed was immense. Composer Joseph Haydn wrote of his young rival: “Posterity will not see such a talent again in 100 years.”

Haydn’s statement is contentious: Ludwig van Beethoven, born in Bonn, is Mozart’s junior by just 14 years and has no shortage of admirers. But Haydn knew both men; he was a friend of Mozart and taught Beethoven.

Musical education

Beethoven was a daunting pupil to instruct – a child prodigy whose first public performance came at the age of seven. Mozart discovered music even earlier – he composed from the age of five! But their motivation for making music might have been a little different – Mozart’s father Leopold was a devoted music teacher who soon realised that he could teach his son little more. Beethoven’s father was allegedly more tyrannical as a teacher and would lapse into alcoholism as his son found fame. For different reasons, the relationships between the two great composers and their fathers were strained; situations made more difficult by the relatively early deaths of their mothers.

Health problems

Both men faced health difficulties when at the peak of their powers. Mozart was thought to suffer from depression, a condition perhaps exacerbated by living in reduced circumstances as Austria went to war. But he did overcome his bouts of severe melancholy and was prolific in his later years – just listen to The Magic Flute for proof.

Deafness, rather than depression, blighted Beethoven’s twilight years but did not prevent him from composing. At the premiere of his Ninth Symphony, with his back to the audience, he heard no applause and wept. It was only when he was turned around by a kindly orchestra member that he saw the crowd on their feet, clapping wildly.

Later lives

Fans of both composers could argue that neither received the acclaim they deserved near and at the end of their lives. Mozart died in 1791 at the age of 35, was buried in a common grave and, in line with Viennese tradition, had a funeral with no mourners.

After Mozart’s death, Beethoven studied his work in great depth and took over his mantle of greatness. Yet, he too knew all about the fickleness of fame. A performance of Missa Solemnis on May 24^th 1824 was poorly attended. It was to be his last public concert. He died in 1827, at the age of 56.

The way the ends of their lives and careers were marked seems so surprising in an age when Mozart and Beethoven are long-established as the two most famous composers in classical music history.

As Beethoven’s work has so many pleasing echoes of Mozart’s sure touch, it can be frustrating to think that there might have been no dramatic meeting between master and apprentice.

We can only listen to their work to gauge the impact that one had on the other – an exercise which is no hardship on a cruise ship sailing down the river which inspired the two greats!

Noble Caledonia’s Rivers of Music cruise 15^th to 26^th May 2012

River of Music

Words by James Christie 

After an early start from a grey and cool London we were glad to land at Dubrovnik airport in bright sunshine. Some of the group in window seats had enjoyed splendid views of the old city of Dubrovnik as we came in to land, but we all enjoyed these views as we drove along the winding panoramic road past the old city to the Island Sky which was berthed in the Dubrovnik port of Gruz. A sumptuous afternoon tea and a very welcome glass of champagne awaited us. Many of our repeat passengers felt they were returning home, and our first time passengers were delighted with the splendid cabins and the warm welcome.

Sent by: Judith La Rocca

Dubrovnik Day 2

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 2: Dubrovnik, Croatia.

We woke up this morning under blue skies and a bright sun; the rain and thunderstorms had washed away the cloudy skies. Our first excursion with our new guests was to the Old Town of Dubrovnik. It was rather crowded this morning as there were 5 other ships docked or at anchor in the Old and New Port. When we saw the line-up of passengers ready to take the tender back to their gigantic 3.000 passenger vessel anchored of Dubrovnik, we found ourselves so lucky to be onboard the small and intimate Island Sky, having the luxury of only spending 10 minutes in the bus to get ‘home’.

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 3: Sarande for Butrint, Albania.

View of the Strait, Corfu in Butrint

Picture of the day – guests enjoying the splendid view over the Strait of Corfu in Butrint.

Sent in by: Kristine Hannon

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 4, Delphi, Greece.

Corinth Canal

Today was definitely a once in a lifetime experience! After visiting one of the most inspiring places in Greece – Delphi – we were in for a real treat shortly before dinner.  The Island Sky sailed through the Corinth Canal, one of the the most exciting man made canals one can sail through.  With just enough space on each side of the ship and towering cliffs on both sides guests celebrated the event with a refreshing glass of Ouzo and Greek canopies in hand.

Sent by: Kristine Hannon & Jannie Cloete

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 5: Monemvasia, Greece.

Monemvasia

Picture of the day – Monemvasia in the golden light of the sunrise.

Sent by: Kristine Hannon

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 6: Folegandros & Sifnos

The MS Island Sky docked at Folegandros

Picture of the day – The MS Island Sky docked at Folegandros

Sent by: Kristine Hannon

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 7: Santorini

The Wonderful Views from Oia in Santorini

The MS Island Sky at Santorini

Santorini Sunset

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 9: Kusadasi for Ephesus

Ephesus crowd

Today was one of the highlights of our cruise, with an excursion to Ephesus on our itinerary.

As this is one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world, it was clear that we would not be the only ones roaming around the ruins of this majestic place. Our guests were swallowed by a river of people shuffling down the main street of this ancient city. It was clear we needed to use our elbows today!

Sent by: Kristine Hannon

Passage to the Golden Horn 2011 DAY 10 ~ Chios, Greece.

Anavatos

That was what our programme told us today. Quite exciting for all of the staff as none of us had been here before. This Greek Island – only a few miles away from Turkey – proved to be a well hidden gem amongst the numerous more famous ones.

Our tour today led us up winding roads with many sharp hairpin bendstowards the ghost town of Anavatos, the Byzantine monastery of Nea Moni and the quant little village of Avgonymos with spectacular views across the fertile plains and the turquoise sea, dotted with more little Islands sparkling in the Mediterranean sun.

Sent by: Kristine Hannon

The Dalmatian coast boasts not only some of the finest coastal scenery in the world, but also ancient walled towns, Roman marvels, mediaeval art, World Heritage sites and some of the friendliest people anywhere. Stewart Wild sets out to explore.

In 305 AD the Roman emperor Diocletian did something remarkable, a unique act unheard-of amongst his predecessors – he abdicated on account of illness and went into retirement. Not, however, before he had built his retirement home, a massive complex on the coast of the Adriatic in Spalatum, now better known as Split, in Croatia. Diocletian’s Palace is a highlight of any visit, a secure walled town within a city, with Roman buildings, vaults, shops and apartments, all thriving once again as tourism returns to this once-troubled region.

The Dalmatian coastline, and its many hundreds of islands, runs from near Trieste in the north to Dubrovnik and the Bay of Kotor (Montenegro) in the south. Over the centuries it has known many flags, having been ruled by Rome, Venice, Austria, Italy, Yugoslavia, and now, mainly, Croatia. The result is an appealing mosaic of language, cuisine, architecture and style, and above all spectacular scenery and magical islands.

Noble Caledonia offers a range of coastal cruises for a week or more, mostly in small ships able to dock in the heart of the small towns and islands along the way. It’s so much more satisfying to stroll ashore from the port rather than be ferried to land by tender. Each itinerary is designed to give full days ashore or cruising amongst islands; the distances are not great so you often sail at sunset and greet the dawn in a new port the following morning.

Ports of call include Koper (Capodistria) in Slovenia, a bilingual walled town founded by the Ancient Greeks, when it was known as Aegida. Attractions nowadays include the 12th-century Carmine Rotunda church, the Cathedral of St Nazarius with its 14th-century tower and the splendid 15th-century Praetorian Palace in Venetian Gothic style. Optional excursion possibilities from Koper include the stunning karst limestone mountain scenery and the Postojna Caverns.

At the south of the Istrian peninsula is the attractive town of Pula, with some wonderful Roman remains including the magnificent amphitheatre, the sixth largest in the world, which dominates the downtown area. Strolling the narrow traffic-free streets with their pretty shops and cafe terraces, and popping in and out of churches and museums, or choosing a guided tour, is a fine way to spend an afternoon. The next day you cruise amongst the first of the many hundreds of rocky islands, large and small, that dot this coast. Few are inhabited and some are so beautiful that they have been awarded National Park status.

Zadar is a small town occupying a narrow peninsula; its rich history dates back to prehistoric times. The Byzantines in the ninth century built on Roman foundations and the church of St Donatus is an outstanding example of their architecture. Fought over in the Middle Ages, Zadar later enjoyed a period of prosperity under Venetian rule as evidenced by the mighty town walls and the cathedral of St Anastasia in high Romanesque style. All the sights are within an easy walk of the quayside.

Korcula, Croatia

Weaving its way the following day past the lovely islands that flank the coast, your ship is likely to stop at Korčula, a wooded and mountainous island that is one of the largest in the Adriatic. Tiny Korčula town, perched on a peninsula at its eastern end, is surrounded by great 13th-century walls, reinforced with towers and bastions by the Venetians in the following century.  Don’t miss tiny St Mark’s Cathedral, a masterpiece of medieval stonemasonry and art. Next door, the 14th-century Abbot’s Palace houses an exquisite display of art and antiquities, while nearby, if you can believe the locals, is a tall building claimed to be the birthplace of that well-known 13th-century travel writer and explorer, Marco Polo.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Back on the mainland a little further south, Dubrovnik is the highlight of any Adriatic journey. The gorgeous walled city was founded by the Romans, came under Byzantine, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian rule, and as a wealthy mediaeval trading centre once owned five hundred ships. Nearly all visitors walk at least part of the mighty walls, with fabulous views all around, then explore the historic Cathedral, palaces and monasteries and traffic-free streets and alleyways before stopping for coffee and ice cream on Stradun, the wide marble-paved street that runs between two of the city gates. And if you’re feeling hungry, the choice of mouth-watering restaurants at very affordable prices is astounding – the local wines don’t disappoint either!

If your itinerary includes Kotor in Montenegro, you’re in luck. At the head of the majestic Gulf of Kotor, the only fjord in southern Europe, the tiny walled town and harbour, protected by World Heritage status, is surrounded by tall mountains in a gorgeous setting that I heard one passenger accurately describe as “western Norway meets Italian lakes”. Once again you can explore traffic-free streets, on your own or with a guide, admire Renaissance palaces and the 12th-century Cathedral of St Tryphon, or just relax at a pavement cafe overlooking the harbour and enjoy the stunning scenery.

There’s more great scenery on the way to Mostar, reached on an excursion from the Croatian port of Ploce. Not every itinerary offers this optional tour, but if the opportunity presents itself, take it in both hands. Mostar in Bosnia is the once-divided town whose arching pedestrian bridge Stari Most over the Neretva River achieved iconic status when it was destroyed in November 1993 during the war that followed the collapse of former Yugoslavia. International cooperation and donations rebuilt the bridge, which was reopened officially in July 2004 by Prince Charles.

The town still shows signs of war damage, but is renewing itself with international help worthy of its World Heritage status. The tour includes not only the famous bridge but also the Tabacica Mosque, an Ottoman house, and the street bazaars – metalwork is a speciality. For a chance to understand a little of the complexities of Europe’s most recent conflict, and feel good about the future, a visit to Mostar shouldn’t be missed.

One of the more successful Roman emperors, Diocletian ruled for 21 years.  After only six years in retirement he died in 311 AD aged 67 in Split, only a few miles from Salona where he was born.  As for me, I’m not planning to retire just yet, but when I do, I might just follow Diocletian’s lead and settle somewhere along the magnificent Dalmatian coast.

Stewart Wild is a London-based travel writer who enjoys small-ship cruising, steam railways and remote islands.  A former tour operator, he has visited more than 130 countries.

Tourists love to flock to the beautiful Mediterranean island of Elba in Tuscany, Italy – a place renowned for its gorgeous natural beauty.

The island’s rich history also attracts intense interest from cultured travellers keen to learn about Napoleon Bonaparte’s link with this corner of paradise.

Noble Caledonia organise cruises which visit many Mediterranean islands; Elba is one of the most notable and picturesque.

If you do find yourself on the island, why not visit ‘Boney’s’ main residence during his time there? Villa Mulini is now a museum housing magnificent books and paintings bequeathed by its most famous resident. Close your eyes and try to imagine April 1814, when, under the terms of the Treaty of Fontainebleau, Napoleon was exiled to Elba.

The conditions of his exile seem rather generous when you look back at his subsequent actions; he was given the title of Emperor of Elba and control of a land with 12,000 inhabitants. He was also allowed a personal guard of 600 men who guarded Napoleon while the British Navy patrolled the island’s shoreline. Though only a nominal sovereign, Napoleon threw himself into a job which he was surely vastly over-qualified to do. The care he took over the introduction and maintenance of vineyards are proof of his micro-management skills – Elba today is considered a highly respected wine-producer.

Arrival in Elba

If you studied Napoleon’s ten-month reign on Elba you could find out much about his leadership style at this stage of his life. The exiled leader was nervous about the reception he might receive from the Elbans; he even sent a new flag he had designed for the island as a peace offering in advance of his arrival. They must have liked his idea of having three bees on the flag as he received a very warm reception when he stepped on shore!

When he left, the flag remained – as did the multitude of debts he ran up during his rule. The issue of money and raising taxes often dominated Napoleon’s hours, days and months on Elba. He instigated a scheme to create blast furnaces on the island and then took possession of the proceeds of the mines when this proved totally impractical. He waited in vain for a pension which the powers who had forced him into exile had promised him.

Love life

He also waited in vain for a visit from his second wife Maria Luisa while discreetly entertaining his mistress Maria Waleska and her son. He waited and waited. Biding his time…

And Elba was, and remains, a beautiful place to wait.

Perhaps this explains Napoleon’s indifference to the low quality of the officers he surrounded himself with; officers such as General Boinod who was completely deaf and was always destined to struggle in his role as Inspector General of Inspections. Isolated from anyone who could depend on – or plot with – Napoleon seemed happy to take every decision himself.

In many ways Elba thrived under the new dictatorship– the new court and military presence needed a lot of provisions to sustain them and attracted many people looking to make a profit.

Agricultural legacy

Napoleon also took a positive interest in changing Elba’s agricultural way of life – encouraging the growing of unusual horticulture such as olives and potatoes and vastly improving the island’s liveability. Such actions suggested that he remained committed to his new Tuscan domain, but in fact the opposite was true. News of Congress plots to confine him elsewhere travelled quickly on the warm Mediterranean breeze and Napoleon cunningly reacted by giving the air of planning further Elba nest-building while really planning for escape.

Escape

The Little Emperor knew he could count on the French Army to welcome him back as they had remained faithful to him in exile. This loyalty could be counted on far more than that of the Elba soldiers; men whose salaries often showed even less sign of arriving than Napoleon’s promised pension payment.

On February 26^th 1815, after a Carnival Ball held in a deconsecrated church which still remains on the island today, Napoleon made his move. Setting sail, he sped away from Elba in a ship painted in British colours.

Life after Elba

Waterloo, and further exile in the distinctly unglamorous barren South Atlantic island of Saint Helena, awaited.

Perhaps the Emperor should have stayed on Elba.

Words by James Christie

How Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence gives readers a tantalising taste of what life in this fantastic French region is like

For adventurous travellers looking to find out about Provence, the book A Year in Provence is so much more insightful than a dry travel guide.

Written by Englishman Peter Mayle, the book was published in 1989 and wittily tells the true-life tale of the author, and his wife’s, first year in Provence; a region in the south-east of France, adjacent to Italy.

Noble Caledonia regularly organises small-ship cruises to Provence during Christmas time and in July, August and September.

So, how did the Mayles find the experience of living in Provence during the winter and the summer?

Provence in winter

The couple settled in the village of Menerbes in January; a time when the Mistral wind is “strong enough to blow the ears off a donkey” but when the night skies seemed amazingly starry to the area’s newest residents. Mayle quickly noted the spikey attitude of the villagers; “they expect every day to be sunny, and their disposition suffers when it isn’t”.

The writer has a theory why Provence people tend to disappear indoors in December and January; linking this mass hibernation to the fact that many of the villagers have their birthdays in September and October!

Signs of life are still visible thanks to the delicious smell of woodsmoke drifting and curling from the chimneys of stone cottages. The fires also produced the well-seasoned stews of Provence, with pots of earthy potatoes and succulent meat bubbling submerged in wine-flavoured gravy on the hearth. These stews, Mayle admits are “not pretty” to look at but are so warming that there is “nothing to beat it”.

It is poor etiquette to skip lunch in Provence: the farm workers set a great example by eating heartily at noon and sparingly at dinner; they know how to unlock the true potential of the food they till on the land! Their love and knowledge of food is almost equal to their amusement at the way the English prepare meals. Early on in the book, Mayle encounters a floor cleaner who insists that the English must kill their lamb twice; once when they slaughter it and once when they cook it!

Summer in Provence

Mayle paints a very different picture of Provence in July. With the temperature climbing to the nineties by mid-morning, the famous lunches are lighter in the heat; perhaps some slices of saucisson, tiny gherkins and black olives covered in a sharp marinade. And maybe some melons, peaches, asparagus, towering salads of olives and anchovies for the main meal. All washed down, of course, with pastis.

This ‘light’ lunch is, of course, very substantial by British standards, so it is best not to over-exert yourself in the afternoon. A game of boules offers just the right mixture of activity and relaxation but the version of the sport which Mayle played seems to suggest that anyone playing without a drink is disqualified and that the game is played until darkness falls.

When the boules balls are finally packed away, it is the smell of Gitanes from late-opening pavement cafes which sums up summer in Provence for Mayle (except in Cote d’Azur – not the author’s favourite part of Provence – where the fragrance of garlic and Ambre Solaire dominates).

Mayle’s book owes its readability to the author’s love-hate relationship with Provence but there is conclusive proof that he loves the region a lot more than he lets on in the book. After all, more than 20 years after the book was published, the author is still living in the region – not in Menerbes but in Lourmarin, situated in Luberon. Perhaps it is time for him to write a sequel!

Spring Flowers & the Golden Age of Dutch Art

Rubens paintings, Trappist beers, beautiful castles and friendly people – Belgium has so much more than just chocolate and waffles to offer visitors; though, admittedly, it’s chocolate and waffles are very special!

When I spoke to Brighton-based Belgian Sarah De Vos about which places she would recommend visiting in her mother country she recommended Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp and the Ardennes.

Noble Caledonia’s Spring Flowers and the Golden Age of Dutch Art ten-day tour takes in the sights and delights of all these places apart from the Ardennes; the tour is sure to inspire people to explore more of Belgium’s many charms.

Sarah, 31, was born and bred in Ghent (pronounced ‘gent’) and came to live in England when she was 24. She tries to return to Belgium as often as possible; little wonder when you hear her talk about all the city’s many attractions…

Question: What makes Ghent so special?

Sarah: I might be biased but I really think Ghent is beautiful; the people are very jovial, friendly and welcoming and there is plenty to do.  There are lots of nice little places to sample the local cuisine – don’t forget to sample our famous Ghent ‘waterzooi’, which is a stew with fish or chicken.

Q: Which are the best places to visit in Ghent?

Sarah: I would recommend visiting the Castle of the Counts (Gravensteen) and the surrounding medieval district and Saint Bavo Cathedral where the famous The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, painted by the van Eyck brothers, is kept. Also make sure that you include St. Michael’s Bridge, Het belfort (the Belfry), the Graslei and the museum of modern art in your itinerary. The historic centre is the place where you will find most attractions – the museums are a bit more dotted around but the centre is the place to start.

Q: Ghent sounds great; how do Bruges and Antwerp compare?

Sarah: I love Bruges; it is so compact – all its sights are within easy walking distance of each other and can be seen during a busy weekend. I would say that Bruges is perfect for a first-time visit to Belgium. The city has a lot of registered historic buildings, is very pretty and the people are so friendly and welcoming. I would recommend visiting the Belfry and the Market Square and taking a boat trip on the Canal. Eating and drinking nice things by the river and browsing the many chocolate and lace shops is always fun! I’m less familiar with Antwerp but a school trip to see its famous zoo and diamond museum sticks in the mind.

Q: If I go to Belgium which food and drink would you recommend?

Sarah: Any Trappist beers (monastery beers) are a must. I’m less keen on eel in green sauce but it’s a national dish so don’t let me put you off! On a more positive note, I love tomate-crevette (great with chips); dried sausages and pate and chicory in cheese sauce with ham. For a ‘naughty’ Belgian delicacy try chips from a frituur, waffles and chocolate.

Q: How do you think British visitors will find Belgium people?

Sarah: Belgians love the British – we love the British humor and the traditions!  Also, old people in Belgium have never forgotten that the British freed Belgium from occupation during the war. Are we different from the British? Well, we like our monarchy but probably not as much as the British love theirs! But both the British and the Belgians love life, good food and talking for hours over a beer.

Q: Which country is Belgium most like?

Sarah: None! I’m a little biased but I’d say Belgium is like no other country…

Noble Caledonia’s Spring Flowers and the Golden Age of Dutch Art tour: 22^nd April to 1^st May 2012 on the Johan Strauss

Words by James Christie

Deserts, dunes, canyons & wildlife: delights of Namibia

Tourists who take photos of Dune 45 in Namibia’s Namib Desert naturally want to know how the dune gets its name; one which sounds like the title of a yet-to-be-written sci-fi novel.

The glowing brick-red dune doesn’t get its name from its impressive height – it is 150 metres high. And you would think that as the beautiful Namib Desert is considered by many to be the oldest desert on earth, there would have been plenty of time for people to think of a more imaginative name.

In fact Dune 45 gets its name from the fact thst it’s situated 45km away from the entry to the National Park. How many countries can claim to have beautiful dunes which also serve as milestones pointing the way to wonderful wildlife?

Namibia, as guests on Noble Caledonia’s Namibia by Private Train tour will find out, is a land of contrasts. It is a country of wild deserts and incredibly neat towns with German architecture; a reminder of its German colonial past. (Namibia was under German rule from 1884 until the end of World War I.)

The Republic of Namibia gained independence from South Africa in 1990. It is a land which is more peaceful and prosperous than many of its impoverished neighbours – thanks to its mining, farming, fishing and tourism industries – but for the thorny issue of land reform is bubbling under.

There is certainly plenty of land in Namibia – it is the world’s 34 largest country and stretches from the Kunene River in the north to the Orange River in the south; a distance of 1500km. Its vastness makes trying to cram in as many of its amazing sights as possible an exciting challenge. Which is why exploring it by train, as Noble Caledonia does, is such a good idea.

Fish River Canyon

The tour includes a visit to Fish River Canyon – the second largest canyon in the world and the second-most popular tourist attraction in Namibia.

But it is well-worth taking a detour off the beaten track to visit the canyon – whose imposing beauty is the result of millions of years of evolution. The canyon is 100 miles long and 27km wide but it is the depth which is really impressive (550 metres).

Namib Desert

From staring into the deep recesses of a glorious canyon, it is time to move on to staring up at the dunes of the Namib Desert; if you’re feeling fit you can try climbing one of the dunes – the views from them are certainly spectacular.

There is a lot of wildlife around in this vast desert if you know where to look. Springbok, mountain zebra, giraffe, bat-eared fox, ostrich, leopard and cheetah are not as obvious to see as the giant sand dunes but they are out there!

Etosha National Park

Rather than random sightings in the desert, a national park offers you a better (and safer) place to view Namibia’s wildlife and Etosha National Park fits the bill perfectly. Most of Africa’s large mammals can be found in the park; with the strange exception of buffalo.

Buffalo are clearly missing out as animals like lion, elephant and black and white rhino all call Etosha home – Namibia is such a great place to experience the delights of the natural world.

Words by James Christie 

Namibia by Private Train

Mongol warlord Tamerlane ~ Silk Route to destruction

Noble Caledonia’s Cities of Tamerlane tour visits part of the ancient Silk Route which goes from China to the Mediterranean. It is a route which once echoed to the footsteps of the armies of the marauding 14^th Century Mongol warlord Tamerlane.

The tour also visits Samarkand, a stunning place in Uzbekistan, which Tamerlane made the capital of an empire teeming with envoys, merchants, pilgrims and intrigue. It was not an empire which Tamerlane, the son of a small-scale landowner, inherited – he had to fight for every inch of it.

Tamerlane, the lame leadership candidate

The way Tamerlane first became leader of a small group of men illustrates the cunning which would see him go on to lead vast armies and conquer countries.

A legendary account of how Tamerlane first revealed his quest for leadership was recorded by the Tatar descendants. The tale recounts how a group of men found its number had swelled to 50; enough for there to be a need to elect a leader. The election took the form of a stake being driven into the ground by one of the group and it was agreed that whichever man could reach the stake first would become leader.

As an accident had rendered Tamerlane lame in one leg, he lagged behind in the race. But he overcame this by throwing his cap onto the stake and declaring: “My head came first therefore I am the leader.”

His rivals, although disgruntled, were persuaded to accept the lame man as leader and the course of history changed as a result.

The extent of Tamerlane’s empire

Born in 1336, Tamerlane was master of Samarkand by the age of 34. For the next 35 years, he continued to get his armies to do his running for him, capturing territory as far afield as Moscow and Delhi and occupying nearly every territory in Persia, including Baghdad and Northern Iraq.

Following in the footsteps of Genghis Khan

Tamerlane saw himself as the heir of another Mongol warlord: Genghis Khan. He certainly had Genghis’s trademark brutality; when the conquered Isfahan revolted against punitive taxes imposed by his regime, Tamerlane is said to have ordered the massacre of 70,000 of the city’s citizens.

Delhi and the burning camels

It was intelligence, combined with heartless ruthlessness which saw Tamerlane advance through Northern India, sacking Delhi by setting fire to his armies’ camels and letting them run at the ‘war elephants’ deployed by the defending forces. Tamerlane had heard that elephants were easily panicked and the information was proved right as the burning camels, howling with pain, caused the Delhi elephants to scatter in panic.

Baghdad and severed heads

Baghdad fell to Tamerlane in 1401, a feat which still did not satisfy Tamerlane’s blood lust as he ordered that every soldier should return with at least two severed human heads to show him. Reports suggest that many scared warriors decapitated prisoners captured far earlier in the campaign to satisfy their master’s order.

China and a bitter winter

Tamerlane next set his sights on overthrowing the Ming dynasty in China. Fuelled by this ambition he abandoned his normal policy of only launching military campaigns in the spring. It was a fatal mistake. Tamerlane died while travelling to battle during the Chinese winter of 1405, a winter so bitterly cold that his troops are said to have had to dig through five feet of ice to reach drinking water. Tamerlane was 69 when he died and the writing his scouts carved on trees in Mongolia’s mountains is a reminder of how far he travelled.

Legacy

Tamerlane’s legacy is far greater than just calligraphy on trees. For all his brutality, he was a passionate patron of the arts; sacking countries and then bringing the most talented artists back to Samarkand and giving them far more freedom to express themselves than many of his own people enjoyed.

This resulted in the great architecture, the stunning mosques, bazaars and complex tombs that you can see on Noble Caledonia’s Cities of Tamerlane tour.

Exhumation

Tamerlane’s own tomb was exhumed in 1941 by a Soviet anthropologist. The exercise discovered that the great leader was tall for his time (5ft 8ins), broad-shouldered and that he was indeed lame from a hip injury.It also found a chilling inscription on the tomb’s casket which warned: “Whoever opens my tomb, shall unleash an invader more terrible than I.”

An impotent threat from a dead ruler? Two days after the exhumation Nazi Germany launched an operation to invade the U.S.S.R and the lands where Tamerlane’s final resting place is located.

Do Look Now: Venetian locations associated with a spine-chilling film

At the time of writing Venice is hosting a film festival which has attracted the likes of Keira Knightley, George Clooney, Kate Winslet and Madonna.

The array of stars on view makes Venice a great place to visit in September, but then the city is a fantastic place to visit at any time of the year – especially if you are a film fan.

Famous movies which have used Venice as a beautiful backdrop include Summer Madness (produced by David Lean and starring Katherine Hepburn), The Italian Job and Casino Royale.

Don’t Look Now, which was directed by Nicolas Roeg, is arguably the film most closely associated with Venice. This supernatural thriller was filmed off-season and the city’s changing tides made filming problematic; causing the production crew many continuity problems.

Yet even so, the location was vital to the film’s success; its melancholy beauty perfectly complementing the sadness felt by the main characters; John and Laura Baxter (played by Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie) as they attempt to cope with the loss of their daughter.

Venice’s narrow, winding alleys, where Baxter follows a mysterious red-caped figure, stay in the memory long after you have watched the film – where else but Venice could these scenes have been filmed?

The Bauer Grunwald Hotel

For those who want to follow the Don’t Look Now trail, the Bauer Grunwald Hotel, over to the west of Piazza San Marco, is a great starting point. This is the place where Sutherland and Julie Christie staged one of the most convincing sex scenes in cinema history.

San Nicolo Church

The church which Baxter helps to restore in the film is in the south-west of Venice. Just as it was in the film, San Nicolo dei Mendicoli, was being restored in the 1970s. Donald Sutherland expressed his dislike of the church to co-star Julie Christie who retorted that he was being “silly” and that the church was “beautiful”. The real-life difference of opinion was overheard by the film’s director who used it as the basis for a scene in the film.

Ristorante Roma

In Sutherland’s defence, the church is certainly in a rather industrial part of Venice. Visitors might well prefer a detour to the Ristorante Roma, near the Grand Canal – a place where John and Laura meet the two strange sisters who are to have such a profound influence on the film’s outcome.

The Calle di Mezzo

For all tourists who are Don’t Look Now fans there is one place which is best visited last of all. The Calle di Mezzo is the narrow canal in which Baxter follows the red-coated figure for the very last time. A night when a light mist is coming off the waters of the canal is the best time to make the film pilgrimage to the Calle di Mezzo.

Words by James Christie

Venice & Beyond

It was plain from the outset that this was going to be a busy but enjoyable cruise. We had hardly left Rossyth docks near Edinburgh, close to the impressive steel span of the Firth railway bridge, when Louis, our tour leader, beckoned us back on deck to take a closer look at Bass Rock, a precipitous rocky mass that sits just off the Lothian coast at the mouth of the Firth of Forth. Bass Rock is a gannet colony of international significance and if there was one creature that would provide a theme for our nine-day Island Race expedition cruise aboard the MS Clipper Odyssey it would be this bulky but graceful seabird. Thanks to Captain Peter Fielding’s safe hands we sailed closer to the guano-stained basalt rock than we might have expected – or, perhaps, even hoped for – close enough, in fact, to catch a whiff of the ammonia-rich guano that 150,000 fish-eating birds are capable of producing.

Sailing north, we reached the Orkneys the next morning. The Old Man of Hoy, an improbably vertical sea stack of red sandstone, is a testing challenge for any climber but as we drew close those with sharp eyes were able to discern the form of two figures cheerfully balanced on top of the column, mission accomplished (apart, of course, from the mere detail of having to climb down again). Sailing around Hoy, we entered Scapa Flow before arriving at Stromness harbour on the Orkney mainland. After a quick tour of the town, which resembles a Scandinavian fishing village, a bus excursion took us off to see a trio of Orkney’s best known prehistoric sites – the Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness and Skara Brae. Equally enjoyable though was the opportunity to gaze at some lovely Orcadian countryside – soft and fertile, with plump cattle grazing contentedly and orchid-strewn meadows alive with piping oyster catchers.

A handful of us rose early next morning to catch a glimpse of a well-preserved Iron Age broch on the island of Mousa just east of the Shetland mainland. Brochs such as this probably served a ceremonial or defensive purpose but what is most striking about them is how their shape resembles the classic tulip curve of 20^th-century cooling towers. We arrived in Lerwick, Shetland’s capital, an hour or so later, guided by a pilot boat into port where buses were already waiting on the quay to take us south to Jarlshof. Like Orkney, most of the houses we passed were grey pebble-dashed affairs but on Shetland these were brightened here and there by clusters of Scandinavian style wooden houses in bright primary colours. As anticipated, we saw Shetland ponies grazing in the fields en route but the sight of a dozen or so common seals basking nonchalantly on a beach beneath the road came as an unexpected bonus.

Jarlshof – Norse names are common in Shetland – is an extensive prehistoric site that has evidence of over 5,000 years of continuous settlement. The resident fulmars at the site, however, seemed oblivious to their home’s archaeological merit and just noisily gabbled away as our guide told us about Jarlshof’s long history.

Back in Lerwick we spent a pleasant hour in the town’s state-of-the-art museum and took a stroll around the harbour before rejoining the boat. Heading briefly north once more, we passed close to the cliffs of Noss, the most northerly point on our cruise, where an enormous population of gannets, guillemots and marauding skuas filled the air. Then it was south again, back through Scapa Flow and west into rougher seas around Cape Wrath on the Scottish mainland. A clearing sky and a rainbow over the sea just before sunset brought the promise of fine weather for the following day.

Once around Cape Wrath we encountered the calm waters of The Minch, reaching Loch Ewe just after breakfast. Here, inflatable Zodiacs took us ashore to visit Inverewe Gardens, an impressive expanse of subtropical plants that thrive in this northerly location thanks to imported topsoil, a sheltering tree belt and the moderating effect of the Gulf Stream. The rainbow the previous evening had been prophetic – after two dull days in Orkney and Shetland the sun was now shining brightly. Leaving Loch Ewe behind, we cruised around beautiful Loch Torridon just to the south, enjoying intimate views of some of the oldest rocks in Scotland. This dramatic geological setting proved the perfect place to spot harbour porpoises for the first, but not last, time on the cruise and, as a compliment to this – ironically mid-way through an afternoon talk on marine mammals – bottlenose dolphins we seen off the port side later that same afternoon.

The mysterious and isolated St Kilda archipelago lies 50 miles west of Harris in the Outer Hebrides. Luckily for us the sea was in a serene mood for our overnight sail there and we enjoyed a gorgeous after dinner sunset that threw the mountains of South Uist into dark relief. Because of sometimes violent seas it is not always possible to approach close to Hirta, the main island, but conditions were delightfully calm next morning as we moored in the bay and took Zodiacs ashore to explore. Hirta has an eerie beauty and an almost tangible presence of the community that used to live here. What was once the village high street is now just a sad parade of roofless cottages, although a few have since been repaired by volunteers. On the hillside behind stand dozens of cleits, dry stone shelters that were formerly used for storing the carcases of the fulmars that were central to the seabird-based economy of these islands.

After a barbecue lunch back on deck we took to Zodiacs again for a tour of the cliffs of the adjoining island of Dun, where rafts of puffins clowned around on the water and we peered through clefts in the rock to the savage waters of the open Atlantic beyond. The defining moment of an already wonderful day came when another Zodiac pulled alongside and Louis and a couple of helpers served us hot chocolate with rum – given such gorgeous surroundings it was hard to imagine greater luxury than this.

Back onboard the Clipper Odyssey we embarked on a tour of the whole St Kilda archipelago, sailing around a separate cluster of islands that lay to the north. We paused close to Stac Lee and Stac an Armin: near vertical rocks that erupted from the sea like enormous monoliths and where, once more, untold numbers of gannets held sway. This, we were told by Brent, our New Zealand birding expert, was the second biggest gannet population in the world. It was easy enough to believe. With the sky darkened by countless wheeling birds, pandemonium broke out when a great skua swooped from nowhere to attack one of the gannets and make it release the fish from its mouth in an act of shameless aerial piracy.

Becalmed waters took us overnight to the island of Barra at the southern end of the Outer Hebrides chain. On the jetty, a coach awaited to take us on a tour of the island. Our driver, a local man, gave us an entertaining tour of the island before delivering us to the airport just in time to see the morning service from Glasgow land… on the beach. Only in Barra will you find an air service that is dictated not by fixed times but by the tides. After a quick tour of Kisimul Castle, perched on a rock at the entrance to Castlebay harbour, we sailed south to the uninhabited island of Mingulay, where a Zodiac beach landing enabled us to spend an hour or two exploring the island’s ruined buildings. Like St Kilda, Mingulay had been finally deserted of its population in the early 20th century, in this case in 1910. Later, a Zodiac tour of the shoreline took us close to inquisitive grey seals, nesting guillemots, shags and numerous other birds that even included a pair of white-tailed eagles.

The following morning we awoke in Irish waters. The Clipper Odyssey put ashore at the port of Killybegs in County Donegal where a tour bus transported us to the village folk museum at Glencolmcille by way of fine rolling countryside. Back at Killybegs there was time for a stroll around town before our overnight sail south along the West Ireland coastline. Once at sea we were greeted almost immediately with the pleasing sight of dolphins in our wake and then, later, what appeared to be a three-finned beast that our onboard experts identified as a basking shark – the first of these ‘fins’ actually being its head.

We passed the dramatic island rocks of the Skelligs off the coast of Kerry early next morning. Skellig Michael, now a UNESCO site, was once the residence of choice for reclusive Irish monks, while its neighbour, the craggy Little Skellig, serves as a base for another large gannet colony. Arriving at Glengarriff harbour just after lunch, we were bussed to Bantry House, an opulent residence overlooking the bay with splendid terraced gardens linked by a 100-stepped staircase. This was followed by an enjoyable exploration of Bantry town where, this being market day, relaxed, good-natured commerce was taking place beneath the gaze of a statue of St Brendan the Navigator. That night the sea was almost unnervingly calm as we crossed the waters of Fastnet southeast towards the Isles of Scilly.

The islands were glistening in Scillonian sunshine next morning when we anchored in the sound next to St Marys, the main island. Tresco was but a short distance by Zodiac and here we were given a conducted tour of the island’s subtropical Abbey Gardens by a well-informed member of staff. After lunch back onboard ship, the local tender pulled alongside to take us to St Agnes, where a group of us walked across a tidal sand spit to neighbouring Gugh on a hunt for Bronze Age burial barrows – the Isles of Scilly are studded with prehistoric monuments like these. Archaeology aside, we still found time for refreshment at St Agnes’ solitary pub.

Taking our leave of the Isles of Scilly we sailed towards Plymouth – sadly, this would be our last night aboard the Clipper Odyssey. More than anything, this fascinating cruise had demonstrated what an ‘Island Race’ we lucky inhabitants of the British Isles really are. To arrive at this realisation, we had covered over ten degrees of latitude from Shetland in the north to Scilly in the south – certainly, the British Isles were bigger and even more beautiful than any of us might have reasonably imagined.

Words by Laurence Mitchell

Fortunately the old Norwegian fishing village of Å is a cosy hamlet of wooden houses with a cafe, a gift shop and a couple of museums. The Arctic cod that once sustained the little community no longer come into its bay to spawn, so now tourists are welcome.

There are not many visitors, because Å lies near the southern tip of the Lofoten islands deep in the Arctic Circle. When we arrive on the expedition ship MV Quest, on a voyage from Scotland to Spitsbergen, we have the place pretty much to ourselves.

There is an invigorating sense of freedom in the wilderness around us, and a short stroll leads to a lake framed by saw-tooth mountains where sea eagles fly. We see more of these magnificent aviators with their distinctive white tails on a zodiac tour of a fjord around the nearby village of Reine, once voted the most scenic place in Norway.

This is a serious accolade, given the grandeur of mainland fjords we have explored on our voyage north. Dalsfjord, our first landfall in Norway, is known locally as the Viking fjord because it was from here that a chief by the name of Ingolfr Arnarsson left to establish the first Viking settlement onIceland.

He left behind thickly forested mountains and waterfalls plunging into crystal clear water, and farmsteads clinging to narrow strips of fertile soil. It is a land that has inspired stirring music, as we discover on a bus tour accompanied by recordings of Greig’s Peer Gynt, a male choir extolling the beauty of a valley, and of a local soprano buried in a village churchyard.

There is no music to be heard on Selje, other than a natural symphony of wind, waves, and the cries of seabirds. The little island off the Norwegian coast is a place of pilgrimage, where a 10^th century Irish princess lived and died and became Norway’s only female saint.

We climb a flight of stone steps to the cave in which her remains were found, and are intrigued by a luminescence in its dark recesses created by a quirk of refracted light.

From this vantage point, high above a grassy shore where sheep are grazing on a white carpet of Arctic cotton, the island is imbued with a profound sense of peace and spirituality. Out to sea, a lone eagle is wheeling in the sky.

English stonemasons were imported in the Middle Ages to build a monastery here, and its remnants prompt an erudite debate among fellow passengers on the respective merits of Cumbrian and Welsh dry-stone dyking.

Sea passages on our cruise are enlivened by talks on the birds and beasts we are likely to encounter, and tales of the old-style hunters who made their livelihoods from them.

We learn we are in the domain of Orcas, apex predators of the seas. Males of this killer whale species grow up to 30 feet long, weigh up to 10 tons, swim at 30 mph, and have around 50 interlocking teeth for tearing their prey. If a Great White shark tangled with this fearsome creature, we are assured ‘Jaws’ wouldn’t stand a chance.

No Orcas appear on our passage, but north of the Lofotens we sight a couple of humpback whales, a mother and calf, blowing plumes of spray. Next to surface are half a dozen fin whales, the second biggest of the species after blue whales with a turn of speed that has earned them the epithet of the Ferraris of the whale world. As the sun begins to set, they are followed by a school of dolphins cavorting in our bow wave for the fun of it.

The wildlife highlight of our voyage lumbers into view at our first port of call on Spitsbergen, the largest island in the Svalbard archipelago. An alert officer spots him from more than a mile away, a moving white dot between patches of ice and snow in Hornsund fjord. The zodiacs are launched, and we speed towards the shore and our first close encounter with a fully grown polar bear.

We approach quietly and stand off about a hundred yards as he ambles along towards an old trapper’s hut. Occasionally he lifts his head and stares at us, then resumes his shuffling, powerful stride, unconcerned by our presence. At one point he climbs a slight rise and slides down the other side on his tummy, rolls over on his back with his legs in the air, then shakes himself like a dog and carries on.

With the safety of water between us, we admire his massive strength and Zen-like calm. It might have been a different story if he had come along half an hour earlier, when we were wandering around the trapper’s hut he is aiming for.

The door of the driftwood shack is barricaded with stout poles, but bears have left their calling cards in great rips on its tarred fabric covering. Inside it is surprisingly warm and cosy, with an old iron stove, bunk beds, and a visitors’ book with comments in several languages.

The music here is of the avian variety. The hut stands at the foot of a towering cliff known the Singing Mountain, because of the constant hum of colonies of fulmars, kittiwakes, guillemots and little auks. The bird watchers among us are on cloud nine.

Our next destination on Spitsbergen is an old coal mining settlement that is now a scientific research station, boasting the most northerly post office on the planet. Visitors to the community of Ny Ålesund can have letters and postcards franked to prove they have ventured close to 79 degrees N, a couple of hours flight from the North Pole.

They can also inspect a fragment of history – the airship mast from which Roald Amundsen and Umberto Nobile became the first men to fly over the Pole in 1926. A larger than life bust of the Norwegian explorer gazes towards the mast, a poignant symbol of the end of the ‘heroic’ era of polar expeditions.

For the modern traveller arriving in these regions by sea, there is still a sense of adventure and of stepping back in time. It is not every day one walks in the footsteps of a saint, a legendary explorer, and a polar bear.

Words by Gavin Bell

Scotland to Spitsbergen – A Northern Odyssey

A cruise on the Nile is the best way to see many of the treasures of Ancient Egypt, says Stewart Wild, as he boards a royal steamer restored…

“What do you see?” asked Lord Carnarvon. “I see wonderful things, and everywhere is a glint of gold,” gasped archaeologist Howard Carter, the first person in modern times to set eyes on the treasures of Tutankhamun.

On 26 November 1922, after five years’ excavating in the Valley of the Kings, Carter’s perseverance was rewarded. Carnarvon had rushed to Egypt from London on receipt of a cable from Carter reporting the discovery of steps leading down to a closed door.  A workman drilled a hole in the brickwork at the end of a tunnel. The world was about to see the astonishing contents of a minor pharaoh’s tomb from the Eighteenth Dynasty, undisturbed for over three thousand years.

As a schoolboy I had read of Carter’s exploits, and I had wanted to explore the Valley of the Kings ever since. The desire was even more acute after seeing, many years ago, Tutankhamun’s treasures both in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo and at the British Museum in London. Now, at last, my curiosity was to be satisfied.

We joined SS Misr in Luxor, once known as Thebes, a laid-back town straddling the banks of the Nile some 350 miles south of Cairo. The little ship was herself a treasure, having been built in Lancashire in 1918 as a gunboat for the Egyptian Navy, and then converted into a royal yacht for King Farouk and his family in the 1930s. In the post-war years she worked on the Nile as a tugboat before being abandoned in Port Said.

In 2002 the present owners bought the vessel, rebuilt, enlarged and refurbished her, and now SS Misr is one of the most modern, stylish and luxurious boats on the Nile, with 24 cabins, air conditioning throughout and still powered by her original British-built steam engines. (During our voyage we were able to visit the engine room which made the engineers and industrial archaeologists in our party very happy.)

The distance between Luxor and Aswan is not great, and sailing is often done in daylight, allowing plenty of opportunity to enjoy the Nile scenery. As we glided gently towards Edfu on the second morning, our experienced tour manager Waleed gave us a thorough briefing on the itinerary, the ship’s facilities, the included excursions and a couple of optionals, shopping (bargaining techniques!) and tipping, and generally what to expect. In the afternoon there was a cocktail reception and staff presentation in the spacious lounge bar; this proved a fine way to get to know our fellow travellers too.

The following morning we made an early visit to Edfu temple, and had the place almost to ourselves. Dating from around 200BC, and buried under sand and silt for nearly two thousand years, the Temple of Horus is the largest and best preserved Ptolemaic temple in Egypt. Waleed gave us our first introduction to the myths and legends of the Ancient Egyptians and the rites and rituals of their worship of the gods, and the interpretation of the ubiquitous hieroglyphic inscriptions.

More gentle sailing upstream brought us to Kom Ombo, where, in the cool of the evening after dinner, we visited the awesome symmetrical Graeco-Roman temple in a beautiful setting overlooking the Nile. Dedicated on the left side to the falcon god Horus, and to Sobek the crocodile god on the right, the temple is richly carved and adorned, with an entrance pylon added by the Roman emperor Augustus around 30BC.  A small chapel to one side houses some dusty mummified crocodiles from a nearby necropolis.

The following morning we gazed out over Aswan, and after an early breakfast took a motorboat ride to the temple of Philae, an astonishing feat of reconstruction. After the completion of the first Aswan Dam in 1902, the island temples were partly submerged and visitors could only view them from rowing boats. During the construction of the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s, the monuments were relocated under the auspices of UNESCO to another, higher, island nearby, which was landscaped to match the original. The huge Temple of Isis combines many architectural styles, while the Kiosk of Trajan from the first century AD is classically Roman and the later Gate of Hadrian was adorned in 394 with Egypt’s last hieroglyphs.

Later we drove across the massive Aswan High Dam, finished in 1971, to gaze out over Lake Nasser, at present the largest artificial lake in the world, which has helped Egypt considerably with water supplies, irrigation and hydroelectricity. It was one of the biggest construction projects in the world at the time and made one appreciate the colossal building skills of the ancient Egyptians, using only basic tools, even more.

The afternoon comprised a gentle sailboat ride in a felucca, powered only by the breeze, and a stroll through the beautiful botanical gardens on Kitchener’s Island, presented to the famous British general in the 1890s to acknowledge his successes in the Sudan.  After dinner another visit to the Temple of Philae was arranged, this time in the cool of the evening to enjoy a magical Son et Lumière performance under the stars.

The following morning those who wished had a lie-in while the more adventurous opted for an early departure by coach to visit the two great temples at Abu Simbel. Hewn out of a cliff in the 13^th century BC, the two massive temple facades are an unforgettable sight. Ramses II, who reigned for 66 years, demonstrated his power by the carving of no fewer than four colossal statues of himself, each over 100ft high. Only slightly smaller, the facade of the neighbouring Temple of Hathor was built by Ramses II to honour his wife Nefertari, with alternating statues of himself and Nefertari depicted as the goddess Hathor.

What is even more impressive is that in the 1960s the temples were threatened with inundation by the rising waters of Lake Nasser on account of the Aswan High Dam, and an international rescue plan was mounted by UNESCO to relocate them. Block by block, they were moved to an artificial cliff in a mini-mountain 688ft back from and high above their original position. The relocation and alignment was done so accurately that on one day in February and October each year the rising sun still penetrates the depths of the inner sanctuary to illuminate the once gold-covered statues of Ramses II alongside the gods Amun-Ra, Ptah and Ra-Harakhty. Visitors can enter this inner sanctum to admire the myriad inscriptions, paintings and bas-relief carvings depicting events like Ramses’ victories over his enemies more than three thousand years ago.

In the afternoon we set sail again, this time heading north, downstream towards Luxor.  This evening was a gala night, and it is a tradition aboard many Nile boats that guests wear Egyptian dress for the spectacular buffet dinner prepared by the chef and his team.  While some guests were on their second or third Nile cruise, and had brought suitable costume with them, others had purchased inexpensive clothing locally with which to make an appearance.  Certainly a highlight of the cruise, and great fun, the evening was rounded off with a light-hearted team quiz followed by free drinks and prizes.

Back in Luxor, an early morning option was a hot-air balloon ride at dawn which proved a marvellous experience, with magnificent views over the temples, the Tombs of the Nobles and the fertile banks of the Nile. This was followed by visits to Queen Hatshepsut’s temple and the Valley of the Kings, where I was able to enter several of the more famous royal burial chambers, including that of Tutankhamun which nowadays, alas, is almost empty. But the finely carved inscriptions, bas-reliefs and gilded paintings on the walls of the corridors and tomb made the effort worthwhile, revealing much of the Ancient Egyptians’ knowledge of the universe and obsession with their journey into the afterlife.

Later Waleed guided us around the vast complex known as the Temple of Amun at Karnak, and the magnificent Luxor Temple, one of the most impressive ancient monuments in Egypt.  A Nile cruise offers so much: it had truly been a week of wonderful things.

Stewart Wild is a London-based travel writer who enjoys small-ship cruising, steam railways and remote islands.  A former tour operator, he has visited more than 130 countries.

Timeless Nile

MV Clipper Odyssey

Sunday November 1st, 2009

Bora Bora on a once-a-month, amazingly clear day: not a cloud was to be seen around the high peaks of the island, more used to shadow and rain than sunlight. Bora Bora awaited us in all its glory and, as the Clipper Odyssey made its way through the pass, we recognised the familiar shape of this icon of the South Seas with Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu (727 metres high), the remnants of the old volcano rising as two peaks in the centre of a turquoise lagoon. Soon the ship came to anchor just off the main village of the island, Vaitape.In the afternoon, five different activities were offered to us by the expedition team. We could return ashore to the little village for some more independent exploration: some of us visited the little shops surrounding the harbour and investigated their first pearls. The glass-bottom boat was put to good use in the lagoon under the skilful direction of Guy. A snorkel lesson was given by Pam on the main beach of Bora Bora in a paradisiacal environment.

Tuesday November 3rd, 2009

Mataiva Atoll

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia

During breakfast, the Clipper Odyssey was making progress towards Mataiva Atoll, the westernmost atoll of the chain in the Palliser Group. The seas were smooth and the only motion felt was a gentle rolling of the ship.Mataiva Atoll has 200 inhabitants and the two sides of the Pahua village are connected by what is the longest bridge in French Polynesia, a 120-metre concrete levee of which the inhabitants of Mataiva Atoll are very proud. Despite long sea swells, the captain skilfully manoeuvred the ship close to the leeside of the atoll and we were able to board our zodiacs from the stern platform. It was quite an experience as the conditions were not perfect and occasionally the ship rolled, but that also increased our sense of adventure and the feeling of arriving in a really remote place. Our zodiac drivers took us through the pass on either side of which the Pacific rollers were breaking, and along the narrow channel towards the centre of the village. Soon we were greeted with some lei of local flowers and Polynesian music.

In the afternoon, the expedition team organised a zodiac cruise inside the atoll for us: our drivers took us through the pass again on either side of which mountainous waves were now spectacularly breaking and drove us deep inside the lagoon, navigating narrow channels between reefs of coral.

Wednesday November 4th, 2009

Rangiroa Atoll

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia

As the Sun rose today, the Clipper Odyssey entered the main pass of Rangiroa Atoll. “Rangiroa” means “vast sky” in Polynesian in reference to the fact that the atoll of Rangiroa is so vast that it creates its own horizon: its far side, low as it is on every atoll, disappears from view. Rangiroa Atoll is the largest atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago and could easily contain the entire island of Tahiti.

Thursday November 5th, 2009

Takapoto Atoll

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia

Just after breakfast, John organised for us to be driven ashore. We were met by the local community with lei distributed to each of us. We then gathered for a welcome ceremony that included some spear throwing and some copra harvesting. Some delicacies, including local coconut cakes, were offered for us to taste, and some craft was for sale as well. After the ceremony, demonstrations and tasting, some of us went for a walk through the village and across the motu towards the lagoon which displayed magnificent shades of blue. Then some of us were shuttled to a couple of snorkelling platforms set up on the reef on which long rollers were occasionally breaking, while others joined Guy in the glass-bottom boat for a little excursion on the reef of Takapoto; dolphins were sighted and remained for a while, playing around our zodiacs Islands.

Friday November 6th, 2009

At sea between the Tuamotu Archipelago and the Marquesas Islands

This morning John very generously granted us a little lie in as the Clipper Odyssey steamed northward through the sparkling blue waters of the Pacific Ocean towards the Marquesas Islands. Outside, the weather was clear and getting very warm as we moved towards the equatorial zone: only little cumulus clouds occasionally cast a shadow on the seas, while the Sun continued to seriously warm the atmosphere.We joined Louis in the main lounge for a history presentation on the Age of Discovery and Age of Exploration in the South Seas. Louis told us about the Spanish empire and the Spanish voyages across the Pacific Ocean in the early period of European expansion, which was followed by the British and Dutch challenges to Spanish monopolies, and finally by the first scientific voyages around the world by French and British explorers such as Bougainville, Cook and La Pérouse. Later in the morning, Peter continued the introduction of his productions on the Polynesian voyagers.

Saturday November 7th, 2009

Nuku Hiva & Ua Huka

Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia

Sailing along the north-west coast of Nuku Hive, we could appreciate the grandeur of the landscapes already: after a few days in the atolls of the Tuamotu Archipelago, the Marquesas Islands beckoned us with their steep cliffs, sharp ridges, high plateaux, deep valleys, eroded ledges, black dykes and secluded coves.

The place we visited today comprised two communal platforms – or tohua – and a temple – or meae. Louis awaited us at the site and gave us a brief presentation of the Tahakia (155 metres long by 42 metres wide) and Kanuihei (142 metres long by 38 metres wide) centres and then we went exploring by ourselves: behind a big banyan tree, we discovered the Teiipoka temple with its many petroglyphs.

When we had all gathered, the dancers greeted us and began their performance with consummate skill, in a setting well staged to give authenticity to the show, while two large drums kept up a steady beat. Set amongst the huge stone platforms, under the spell 9 of the sacred banyan tree and backed by lush jungle, the dancers performed the Dance of the Pig, enacting its life cycle, and a dance recalling the ancestral voyage from the Hawai’iki homeland.

Sunday November 8th, 2009

Hiva Oa

Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia

Once disembarked, we boarded a couple of coaches and our first stop was the cemetery, perched high on a hill overlooking the town. The various headstones, some covered in vegetation, were arranged in terraces, and we located both Brel’s and Gauguin’s. Though Gauguin did indeed die on this island, no one is actually sure where his body lies, so whether the simple basalt marker bearing his name is headstone or cenotaph remains a matter of conjecture. Brel also lived his final years in Hiva Oa and was much liked by the local population because he flew his plane to help with medical emergencies. The site offered a wonderful view of the town and bay below as well as the towering mountains above. Many photos were taken before we headed down the road to the bottom of the hill where we visited the Gauguin and Brel museums which sheltered reproductions of the painter’s work and Brel’s restored little plane.

Monday November 9th, 2009

Fatu Hiva

Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia

As we entered the Bay of Virgins, we could see why the Marquesas Islands considered by many to be “the most beautiful islands in the world”. Our view of Fatu Hiva revealed vertical cliffs and ridges draped in cloud. No coral reefs fringe this isolated ancient volcanic island rising straight out of the Pacific Ocean. We met out on deck to record images forever imprinted on our minds. Very early for most of us, a handful of birders were taken ashore by Brent for an investigative walk in search of the famed Fatu-Hiva monarch. Zodiacs brought the remainder of us into the little port of Hanavave after breakfast. As we set off on a variety of hikes to discover cascades ,villages (with Pam and Guy), or ocean vistas.After lunch, we went for a bit of snorkelling, a dive or a zodiac cruise underneath the cliffs of the island. And then we returned ashore at the end of the afternoon: we were welcomed to the village of Hana Vave with leis exuding an exotic perfume of flowers bound together with fresh mint, basil, ginger, sandalwood and fruits. Gathered around the central place, we 11 enjoyed a fantastic music and dance performance. The dancers progressively became more passionate as the performance continued, onlookers singing and beating the rhythms with their feet and hands.

Tuesday November 10th, 2009

Napuka Atoll

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia

We arrived at the small coral atoll in the middle of the afternoon. The long swells of the Pacific Ocean,combined with the steady trade winds which had been blowing all day, rendered a landing at Napuka quite hazardous as the surf was breaking across the narrow pass to the little harbour. It was therefore decided to organise a snorkel and dive session instead of the landing: that way the zodiacs would not have to cross the bar since this could be set on the outside of the reef. Zodiac shuttles took us to a couple of zodiac platforms which had been set up on the reef and from there we launched into the clear waters of the Tuamotu Archipelago. A lovely water temperature greeted our plunge into the Pacific Ocean and below were lots of little reef fish for the snorkellers and glass bottom boaters, while bigger fish and school fish met the divers.

Wednesday November 11th, 2009

Raroia Atoll

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia

After lunch we were taken ashore in a long zodiac ride through the pass and along a channel inside the lagoon to the main village of Raroia, located on the inside of the reef. The villagers greeted us with lei, music and delicious fruits and breads. Dancing, copra-extracting, javelin-throwing and stone-lifting demonstrations were carried out for our greater enjoyment.Pam led a beachcombing walk and Guy took those of us more interested in land wildlife on a short tour of the motu, while Guy gathered his birders on another motu to investigate the local birdlife.

Thursday November 12th, 2009

Tahanea Atoll & Motutunga Atoll

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia

We were taken in small groups to experience a session of drift snorkel in a relatively fast current of alternating hot and cold water. There were white and black tip reef sharks, grey reef sharks, groupers, parrot fish, tangs, moorish idols, snappers, trevallies and tunas, all inhabiting different parts of the reef, some deep, some tucked right up into the coral. The experience of effortless snorkelling was quietly enjoyable. Divers also enjoyed a mellow dive, with Pam, off a beautiful wall of coral: they too saw lots of sharks, and a wide variety of reef fish. Brent took the birders ashore to explore the bird life on a motu as well as the fisherman’s hut used sporadically by locals searching for fresh fishing grounds.Friday November 13th, 2009

Fakarava Atoll

Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia

The Clipper Odyssey anchored inside the lagoon during breakfast and we disembarked soon afterwards for our last visit in the Tuamotu Archipelago before heading back again to Tahiti. We were greeted with a delectable display of Fakarava cuisine; oyster meat soaking in lime and coconut milk, pounded taro mixed with coconut milk and rolled in shaved coconut meat, roasted slivers of coconut meat, various breads made with coconut milk, marinated swordfish, heart of palm and the heart of the coconut together with coconut meat.Saturday November 14th, 2009

Tahiti

Society Islands, French Polynesia

After a final breakfast from our wonderful hotel and restaurant staff, we disembarked our little ship for the last time and headed off for a tour of the island of Tahiti after which our coaches would take us to the International Airport of Faaa for our long flights home.