The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina to the Danube Delta 2011

Day 1 London to Iasi, Romania

An early start from Heathrow flying to Iasi in Romania via Vienna. Upon arrival, we had a short transfer (about 20 minutes) to the Ramada Hotel in Iasi in time for lunch. After lunch our small group joined a walking tour in this quaint city and saw sights including the Palace of Culture, City Hall, St Nicolae Church (1492), the Roman Catholic Church, the Church of Three Hierarchs and the Metropolitan Cathedral of St Parascheva. We were lucky enough to experience a religious ceremony where people were queuing to be blessed by a priest, and touch the relics of Saint Parascheva, the patriarch of Moldavia and Bucovina. After some free time, and the chance to change up some pounds into Romanian Lev, we made our way on foot back to the hotel.

We took a short coach journey to “Bolta Rece” (meaning “refreshing grapes”) restaurant, a former Nobility house, for a traditional meal, including a unique sweet ravioli-like dessert, washed down with “Tuica” (strong Romanian fire water made from plums). We were entertained by a local 4 piece (fiddle, cello, accordion & a steel guitar) band. After a hearty meal it was time to return to our hotel for a good night’s sleep.

Day 2 Iasi to Radauti & Bucovina

After a buffet breakfast, we drove by coach to Romania’s first private musuem (Muzeu Popa), located in a small village, dedicated to the artistic work of Nicolae Popa. The museum included many stone and wood sculptures, costumes, photos, farm tools, vases, icons and paintings. We were then entertained by local children dressed in traditional clothing and masks. A few of our group dressed up in costumes over 100 years old and danced to the music, much to the delight of the rest of the group! We were provided with a home-made lunch, including home-made wine and “tuica” (the Romanian plum fire-water), which was delicious! We then had some free time to look around the local village. The life here is fascinating…… people travelling by horse and cart, water obtained from wells in gardens, animals (cows, horses, chickens, ducks and geese) and haystacks in the fields. Felt like I was in Amish country!

We then continued our journey by coach, during which we were informed by our guide that Prince Charles has a house and apple orchard nearby, from where the apple juice is imported to the UK for sale. His house can be rented if anyone is interested! We next stopped off at Suceava Fortress, dating back to the 14^th century, where we had some free time to explore. Back on the coach, and final drive to the Gerald’s Hotel where we would stay for the next 3 nights. This evening we enjoyed some wine tasting followed by a sumptuous buffet dinner, before another good night’s sleep.

Day 3 Radauti & Bucovina

After a buffet breakfast, we boarded our coach, and arrived at a surprise stop, the Roman Catholic Church of Cacica, opposite a working salt mine, over 200 years old. In the year 2000, the church was proclaimed a “basilica minor” by Pope John Paul the second. There is a statue of him in front of the church. We then continued our journey by coach through alpine forests.

We arrived at the first of our painted monasteries, Moldovita, where there is a nunnery, the fabulous painted church and a museum, with the backdrop of an alpine forest. The monastery was built in 1532, and painted in 1537. The colourful frescoes, dominantly red and green, are the same on the outside and inside of the church, and depict the story of the bible. We were then guided around the interior of the church and the museum by an entertaining nun called Tatiana.

We drove to a local restaurant for a local meal of chicken noodle soup, pork stew with polenta and cheese, followed by crème caramel, and some warming tea or coffee. There was a photo of Prince Charles with the staff inside the entrance.

After lunch we drove to Sucevita monastery, which was very impressive inside and out. The church was built in 1585, and the paintings date back to 1601.

On our way back to our hotel we stopped off at a black ceramic pottery workshop and shop, where several of our group brought souvenirs. This evening, before a buffet dinner, we were treated to a folklore performance of dancers and musicians. Some of our group chose to join in with the dancing. After a long but rewarding day it was time to hit the hay!

Day 4 Campulung-Moldovenesc & Cicocanesti

After breakfast some of the group enjoyed a short guided walking tour of nearby St Nicholas Church, just across the road from our hotel. Also known as Bogdana Church, it was the first stone church to be built in Moldavia, and dates back to 1359-1965. A service was taking place, which we were allowed to sit in on.

Boarded our coach and drove to Voronets Monastery, built in 1488 by Stephen the Great to commemorate victory at the Battle of Vaslui. The frescoes at Voronets feature an intense shade of blue known in Romania as “Voronets blue”. Afterwards, we had some free time to wander the market stalls selling waistcoats, shawls, antiques, among other things.

Next we drove to Campulung-Moldovenesc, where we visited the Wood museum. The different rooms exhibit baskets, hunting equipment, cips, crooks, ploughs, sledges and wheels etc.

Walked to a local restaurant where we had a delicious lunch followed by “papanash”, which is like a fluffy doughnut containing cheese and covered in sour cream. Mmmmm!

We then drove up through the mountains to an egg painting museum. Here we were giving a demonstration of egg painting by a girl, who also sang a traditional song for us. There were lots of different painted eggs on sale in the gift shop. Shortly before heading back to our hotel, our driver Nick surprised us with pickled chillies and gherkins, and Tuica, which we all enjoyed by the roadside. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed another delicious dinner.

Day 5 Radauti to Bucharest to Cernavoda

An early start! We were given a packed breakfast to enjoy on our journey to Suceava airport to catch our flight Bucharest. When we arrived at the airport we discovered that our flight had been cancelled and our plane had instead landed at Iasi airport. Nobody minded, as it meant we got to relax on the spacious coach and spend more time with our driver Nick, who was luckily driving home to Iasi.

From Iasi we flew to Bucharest. We then enjoyed a coach tour of Bucharest, seeing Victory Avenue, a former Gestapo headquarters, the Royal Palace and the Triumphal Arch. We also had the rare opportunity of visiting the Palace of the Parliament, including an inside visit. Construction of the people’s palace began in 1983, and even with 1100 rooms and being 12 stories tall, it’s still considered unfinished. It is the world’s largest administrative building, and the world’s second largest building after the Pentagon. We were inside for about an hour and a half and only saw about 5% of the building!

Next we drove to “Caru Cu Bere”, an open beer-hall type traditional restaurant, for a traditional hearty lunch and to sample some of their home-made beers.

We then re-board the coach to drive to our ship, the MS Johann Strauss, moored in Cernavoda.